Dr_Ju_ju

Powerline is not really direct.... and connection resiliency will rely on the distance\ring circuit etc. personally I consider them on a par \ worse than Wifi If you can run, a Cat5\6 ethernet cable between your shed & house.

As I said, its just behind the Molex connector, outlined in Red Box

Are you connecting via Wifi or direct wired network ? If Wifi, then I'd expect signal drop-outs \ re-connects.....

If you have a car, then use the supplied ciggy lighter socket adaptor

If you have a multimeter\voltmeter then check the voltages on the power connector pins (big 4-way Molex), also around the regulator, that is just behind the Molex connector. I had one blow on me when a wet spiders web in the st4 port shorted, hence I now keep a dummy plug in the socket to stop a re-occurrence...

You need to check the solder side of the power connectors & the on-board regulator and their associated components.... so in the first instance, undo the 4 screws securing the mobo, leaving everything connected & carefully raising the board to give it a good inspection...

I always do photo resist sheets, so I can make many identical pcb's, & have done....

One quick word of warning, be VERY careful of the mobo connectors, they are easily broken off, I know, to my pockets pain.... To eliminate the handset, which may be at fault, have you tried connecting the mount to your PC (if you have an appropriate adaptor\cable) & trying to drive it directly, with one of the myriad applications available ??

How about some felt, to stop painted surfaces sticking together ??

Another reason for making your own PCB, in that you can use standard connectors e.g. https://uk.farnell.com/amphenol-icc-commercial-products/rje01-660-01/connector-rj11-jack-6p6c-1port/dp/2751501?st=rj11 It doesn't matter then what pitch \ pinout they are, as the layout program will take that into account....

Personally, I'd build a couple of these, https://www.electronicshub.org/lead-acid-battery-charger-circuit/ One for each battery, with a common source, whether that be a DC (Solar Panel if it's able to supply the volts under load), or an AC supply....

From what I can see, you get them here https://pegasusastro.com/support/

If you have the time & knowledge (I suspect you do, maybe not the time) then I'd suggest laying out ~ making your own PCB, to Robert's circuit design, using software like Autodesk's Eagle. You can then use 'proper' connectors, instead of the header pins\sockets, laid out appropriately, minimising internal wiring, and adding any additional components etc.

After knobs !! have a look here http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/categories/65/hand-knobs-thumb-screws/?page=2&pageSize=20 will be more expensive than the oriental variety, but probably better quality & faster delivery...

Yes, you will need a cable and\or adaptor ? between the computer and mount, that replaces the handset, and plugs directly into the mount port that the hand controller goes into. Then with the appropriate software\drivers installed you should be able to drive the mount. This is a very simplistic explanation, but should get you started....

Nope, all my windows devices connect ok, both http & https, & the cert is ok & valid, so it must be something local.....

Look for the Sorbothane pads as used in the audio industry e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Sorbothane-40mm-Diameter-Isolation-Feet-Spheres-4-x-Self-Adhesive-Pads/293118014273?hash=item443f31f341:g:q3sAAOSwDO9c~5Yo They are not cheap, but are the best for dampening vibrations. In a previous existence, I used to design & build equipment used in a broadcasting environment, i.e. BB, where the product(s) were used in many differing types of equipment, from tone arms, speakers and even control desks...

If you have the space, then you could consider a Hang Printer (https://hangprinter.org/) ……

Don't run anything in Administrator mode, as you could well have other issues with connecting everything together. Double check all cable connections, & see if they show up in device manager.

That 'black box' in the middle of the cable is a voltage up-converter, as USB ports will only supply 5 volts, but the Canon's require between 7.8 ~ 8.4 volts to work reliably. That invariably means there will be losses in the converter, especially when the temperature drops. I use similar 'mock' batteries, but they are fed from adjustable regulators fed from the 12 volt supply....

Not seen the design, so I take it that using flat mirrors set at the appropriate angles would even out any chromatic aberrations ??

yes, follow the instructions here (https://computing.which.co.uk/hc/en-gb/articles/360009159719-How-to-upgrade-from-Windows-7-to-Windows-10-for-free)

Install Magic Lantern (https://magiclantern.fm/)which will give you far more control over the camera.....

Yes, your setting is "append on sync" which over time, with the greater number of sync points will 'force' the mount to what it thinks is the correct position, which then differs from what the plate solve is trying to achieve, so they end up fighting each other.... Set it to Dialogue Based AND clear the sync points list, then give it a go.... BTW, the latest version of SGPro 3.1.0.429 BUT, to run it successfully I'd suggest you update your Windows to Win 10 (free upgrade), especially as your version goes out of support tomorrow....

Need more info & logs, e.g. equipment in use, SGPro log (which version ?), Windows versions etc.... Also have you asked on the SGPro forum https://forum.mainsequencesoftware.com/ If you are using EQMod\Ascom ensure that under "Alignment / Sync", 'user interface' is set to 'Dialog Based'.