Dr_Ju_ju

Yesterday, I did a stupid thing & 'serviced' my Prusa Mk2, resulting in the bed rails being just a tad stiffer than they were, resulting in print failures. Loosening things up a little, has returned everything to normal...

You have to be careful with the sliders, as they also use ball bearings, like the cylindrical bearings, that can also drop out, making them as problematical as the cylindrical ones. Thomas Sanladerer, recently did a modification upgrade on his Mk3 ( For him, this proved inconclusive on any benefits... I've always used the Igus linear bearings, and apart from a quick clean up, now & then, I've had no issues....

Funny you should do that upgrade, as I was also thinking the same type of upgrade for mine, as my belt bearings have worn out, making a horrible screeching noise, and was looking at other improvement, while I'm at it fixing the noises.....

… it seems, are freely releasing their whole catalogue, royalty free https://www.diyphotography.net/nasa-makes-entire-media-library-publicly-accessible-copyright-free/?fbclid=IwAR3pdZs8JQVhlYmr49FQ6kGpme5oi0IZXf-2Ae_OLvQW6mzlpp_l19gMwvc

Not tried the Ekos one, as I'm more familiar with PHD2, I worked on the basis of the devil you know....

at times, yes, especially when I want a lower profile head in the light path....

What software are you using, for guiding ?? if PHD2, then you'll need to reconfigure for the different scope....

If your brave enough https://github.com/OpenPHDGuiding/phd2/wiki/BuildingPHD2OnLinux

I can 2nd the ZWO 8-way wheel, never had any issues with mine, even if the 1600\120 are playing up; they all run off the 1600's internal hub.

FYI, stainless steel square nuts are available, even in black https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-STAINLESS-STEEL-SQUARE-NUTS-A2-70-Stainless-Steel-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-DIN-557/222399060187?var=521268372603

You could use a square nut, which just drops into the slot.... That's if they are available ??

instead of the bolt\screw body coming down into the tube, have you considered reversing the bolt so that it goes outwards into the guider mount, which could then be suitably tapped for the bolt ??

One quick thought, regarding the linked article & its testing, is that all measurements were taken with light entry being 'on-axis' with no testing being done with 'real world' conditions, where the incoming light rays are at various angles throughout the day. Also as we invariably use some form of dome, to cover the lens\camera etc. how much light energy is subsequently lost, as it travels through the dome ? Also many 'fabricators', i.e. Gina, often include some form of cover, that goes over the lens during daylight hours...

1.8.10 works perfectly well, its just that some of Mr. Brown's libraries need re-naming, either in the sketch or library folder e.g. DallasTemperature to MyDallasTemperature so after you copied all the supplied libraries, do a code verify & rename as required.....

But not all the clones play nicely & fully respect the specs....

I blame the Arduino dev team, trying to weed out the clones...

Currently I'm using Win10, I'm building a new Ubuntu Mate 19.10 system, but not yet got to Arduino.....

FYI, I just had the same as you, no upload, with an update to a focuser controller, but the OS had incorrectly set the driver. After manually setting CH340 type all worked as expected....

is the OS selecting the correct driver for the board, I've found some of the newer drivers, both Windows & Linux, make the IDE fail.....

and all the required libraries ?

just been checking.... so, under tools "Board" is correctly set ? and then "Processor" is set to Atmega328P (I use Old Bootloader)... & forgot Programmer AVRISP mkii

Nowt wrong with knitting...... but which version of the IDE are you using ? (latest is 1.8.10) and you have the correct port\baud rate set ?? I also find it helps to have the Arduino unplugged from any board so its on its own....

I don't have a C8, so I don't know, but if the 2\3 ? visible screws are just for mounting and not adjustment ?? then why not use 2\3 pillars & a mounting plate to offset the motor outwards. As long as everything ends up reasonable firm\secure, that should do what you require. It may even then be possible to mount the control\driver to the plate as well....

I beg to differ, as I've tried both types of couplers on my focusers and found the solid ones to be far superior. They are thinner, so are easier to mount without fouling\rubbing the sides of the main focuser assembly, especially if the central rod (Crayford's) is not correctly configured. The mounting grub screws are opposite each other as opposed to a 90 degree offset which can also offset the whole coupler. And being 'flexible' means there can sometimes be induced backlash in the rotational movement.

For all Canon cameras, I'd recommend using Magic Lantern (https://magiclantern.fm/) to extend the control range of your camera....