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Found 7 results

  1. I recently purchased a EQ5 mount with synscan. But rather then use the car adaptor running though a 3 pin convertor i bought a 12v 500mA DC power supply. The back of the manual states it requires 100mA (see image). So here i am thinking great this will do. Wrong. Its enough to start the hand controller and go through all the set up but it doesnt seem to move any motors. This being my first attempt i wasnt sure if i was doing something wrong. Did the brakes need releasing? - No. are the cables going to the right sockets? - Yes. After much head scratching i went back to to start and used the supplied 12v car style plus in a convertor i had. Sure enough it all worked perfectly. okay went back to my 500mA and nope nothing worked. After searching the house for a 12v 1A DC supply with the correct plug and trying that, Sure enough it all works fine. Have they simply missed a '0' off the manual or am i missing something else here? Tomorrow i'll probably go an exchange it for this 12V 1000mA Power supply. I'll let you know how i fair. And for anyone checking for power supplies (Like i did) your looking for a 5.5mm x 2.1mm power tip to for the unit.
  2. I've recently made myself a 12v to 7.4v battery conversion for my Canon 1000D DSLR Camera. This allows you to power it using a 12v source such as a Skywatcher Powertank/Leisure battery, and ensures there's no need for battery swaps mid-imaging run. If you buy a pre-made one then these are ~£40 from Astronomiser etc.Parts, Tools and Instructions are detailed below.Note: I've put Maplin codes, links and prices for some of the parts for reference, but they can probably be obtained elsewhere cheaper. e.g. eBay, Farnell, RS Components etc.Note 2: This is a guide only and I take no responsibility for people breaking their camera!Parts List:Velleman K1823 1A PSU (Maplin VE58N) £9.99Plastic Enclosure 75x51x25 (Maplin KC92A) £2.9912v Switch (Maplin N84JZ) £1.993mm 12v Red LED (Maplin CJ66W) £0.743mm LED holder (Maplin N85AX) £1.3420mm fuseholder (Maplin CT90X) £1.0520mm fuse 1A (Maplin GJ90X) £0.21TO220 Heatsink (Maplin KU50E) £1.14Canon 1000D LP-E5 Battery (eBay) £2.1912v Cigarette Lighter Plug & Lead (eBay) £2.75Wire ~£0Zip ties ~£0TOTAL: £24.39Tools:Soldering ironSolderGlue gunDrillStanley knifeWirecuttersSmall philips screwdriverMultimeterInstructions:Open K1823 kit and complete using enclosed instructions, apart from lying the large capacitor down on its side - so it fits into the case.Place heatsink onto TM317, will have to bend the component back slightly so it fits in the case.Drill one hole in either end of the plastic enclosure for wires in & out.Make holes in enclosure lid for led holder, fuse holder and switch.Fit items into lid.Cut end off cig plug.Measure & cut wires, solder up according to wiring diagram.Carefully open LP-E5 battery case & remove battery, but retain contacts. (Can cut down small pcb just to leave contacts, if easier)Make a small hole in the battery case for wire to come out of.Solder up output wires from K1823 to contacts inside battery case.Check everything including all soldered joints.Insert fuse into fuse holder.Insert cig plug into a 12v source (e.g. Powertank).Use multimeter to check output voltage.Adjust potentiometer on K1823 board to get correct 7.4v.Switch everything off.Glue K1823 board into enclosure.Fit tie-wraps both sides of wires coming out of enclosure for strain relief.Glue battery case back together.Switch everything back on & re-check output voltage.Screw lid onto enclosure.If ok, then insert battery into camera and turn on.
  3. Just wondering how a typical mains powered 12v converter fares under heavy dew conditions, if it dews up inside it might blow itself and pop a mains fuse (hopefully the portable RCD first though). Shouldn't be any risk of electrical shock, but if the entire casing is dripping with dew then who knows? I have an old blue Halfords unit that has a power selector switch and a single power socket on the front. There's a car fuse on there too. It can chuck out a fair old amount of amps at 12v, which is the scary part for me. Should such a unit be wrapped up in a thermal blanket to delay the onset of dew?
  4. Before Christmas I decided to swap my perfectly good HitecAstro DC focus controller for an Ardunio-based system. This would give me the flexibility to swap over to stepper motor-based focus motors at a later date. I also wanted to bring my 12v power distribution up from the pier to sit in the middle of the dual mounting bar with my two refractors on one side and my SCT on the other. This new arrangement should lead to a significant reduction in the cable spaghetti I seem to constantly wrestle with. I have all the eye-to-hand co-ordination a dyspraxic slug, so for me, soldering usually lots of yelling and high car parking fees (for the car park at my local A&E department). With a promise nothing particular at all, I managed to persuade my good friend Dave that his life was really empty and unfulfilled and what he really needed was to fill his days building me a custom-built box of tricks containing a Ardunio DC focus controller with optional hand controller (Thanks to Rob Brown - https://sourceforge.net/projects/mydcfocuserrelativedcfocuser/) and a 6-output fused 12v power distribution box. Last week Dave delivered the finished article to me and this evening, I've just finished testing it all. The last jobs will be to label up each output and switch; mount the 7 port USB hub on the lid; cut all the existing 12v power leads to just the right length and put RCA plugs on them; and finally mount it all on the dual mounting bar.
  5. So my birthday just past so money to splash on astro stuff , i will have my 1000D modded by juan at cheapastrophotography and also have ordered an autofocuser from deepsky dad https://deepskydad.com/autofocuser i know they can be done DIY but this is a neat package and costs about the same as a SW autofocuser and a hitechastro focusmaster and i`m no electronic wizard and pavel seems to have a good product and works with ascom and confirmed it works with APT i will update in a few weeks time when hopefully i will have received and tried out .
  6. Hi All. After looking for, and failing to find, a 12v splitter that can do more than 10A, I've decided to build my own. But, I have a couple of questions about fusing things. The box has 3 marine-type locking cigar sockets. The internals are wired with 15A rated components (am thinking max load of 5A on 3 sockets = max 15A). The box will be connected to either an XM21X DC supply when at home, or an old car battery when out and about. Each cigar plug will have a fuse in it suited to the appliance (I note my HEQ5 Pro cigar plug, as supplied, has a 5A fuse - off topic but is that right?). The cable from the supply to the splitter is orange mower flex, rated at 13A. The dilemma I have is what rating of fuse to put at the supply end of the cable - 13A would match the cable rating and the box, but is too high for what the XM21X can deliver. So do I make a second cable fused at say 7A for the XM21X? Ultimately I might make a battery box to hold the battery and the 3 sockets (plus...) but not yet. Thanks!
  7. Several questions, sorry. 1. is there a way to trickle charge multiple batteries from one trickle charging unit (where a 240v mains supply is available)? 2. is there a way to trickle charge multiple batteries from one trickle charging unit (where there is only access to a solar panel and no mains feed)? 3. in the situations above (1 and 2) does it matter that there is a combination of battery types (wet lead-acid and deep cycle gel batteries)? 4. can anyone recommend a weatherproof solar panel to drive this potential setup? 5. can anyone recommend a trickle charger to run off a solar panel to charge multiple 12v batteries? Batteries currently: 2 x wet lead-acid batteries (50-60 amp hour each); but these could go in time. 2 x gel deep cycle batteries (80 amp hour); very old and again could go in time. 2 x gel deep cycle batteries (110 amp hour); eventually will end up with just these at the observatory. Background: We have an observatory with no mains power. The mount runs at 24v, lighting at 12v. We are looking for solutions to trickle charge the batteries on site, and avoid the need of someone having to lug the 110 amp hour batteries away each time the observatory is used. The smaller batteries are being used as these are easier to carry, but the goal would be to end up with just the two large deep cycle batteries for the mount, and maybe one or two of the other batteries for lighting or to provide a 12v feed to someone who may bring a scope and save them bring power too. We don't want to explore wind power for the time being. Thanks for any replies.
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