Dr_Ju_ju

Louise (and any other newcomers), another quick tip to pass on.... … and that is, to keep your hot end \ heating block clean, especially internally, where over time deposits will accrue, resulting in blobs, stringy-ness, blockages, bad bed adhesion etc. Externally its relatively easy to use a fine wire brush to gently clean off any deposits, but internally it will probably require stripping down the nozzle \ heater block \ heat break, into their component parts. This may well require that the block is heated to working temperatures to 'break' and seals, SO BE CAREFUL, and use suitable tools etc. Also when hot, its then much easier to dislodge any caked on deposits....

Depends on the max speed of the pillar drill, but I doubt it could drive a router bit, but there are stepped bits made for enlarging holes in metal, some cheap, others not, but have a look on amazon\ebay etc....

Have look @ https://e3d-online.com/filaments-3d-printing?material=41 or https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/42-prusament?id_category=42&n=27 both are fine printing materials, if a little pricey (& watch shipping costs), and even though they appear 'shiney' in the pictures, aren't as bad when printed.....

Apart from the Computer, and as everything else is the same, i.e. same software versions etc ??, then you could try copying all the config files from the old computer to the new one. You will need to update USB \ Ports connections etc. but it should give a reasonable start point.

If you have the money, then look out for optically connected devices e.g. HP Storageworks SAN .... TB\sec systems......

I have 2 16TB NAS drives, spinning rust, each in a Raid 5 config, which mirror each other, and additional NAS devices for use @ star camps etc. and everything is GB connected. So whenever I manage to capture an image, they are then saved to my local NAS cloud, so are available for processing anywhere in the local network....

Yep, I sunk a 250mm x 2M tube into the ground & set a smaller 150 MM tube into that, up to my mounting plate.....

I used Air-Con ducting, 250mm & 150mm diameters, cheap & freely available

I use a similar Wavelink device, while @ Star Camps, to get better connectivity with the locally provided services, and while it works, there are still intermittent issues with drop-outs etc. So once again in a permanent situation, no thanks...

Personally, I wouldn't touch powerline devices with long poles, especially if you will be 'crossing' mains circuits, over longer distances, where they can be troublesome. But then, I also wouldn't use WiFi, as you could then be troubled with distance signal degradation, drop-outs etc.... If you're putting ducted mains cables, adding the ethernet cable, apart from cost, to me, is a no brainer, especially for future proofing the installation.

For some reason, the ASI 1600, sometimes 'goes to sleep' where all you get out of it is a blank\black screen. There's a thread on SGPro forum discussing the issue, but the jist is that others have seen the problem & the best way to fix it is to open the camera in ASICap which for some reason appears to re-set it.

If you're going to run a spur off an existing ring main, then just check that the total possible load doesn't get too close to the MCB trip rating (should be 32A) but if possible run the cable to the main dist. board & fit another dedicated MCB\trip at a lower value 5~10A. I'd also arrange for more outlets within & even outside the dome, to cater for the unforeseen..

I hope those HDD's are in a raid 1 array, no spinning rust lasts forever....

Put a 100mm (4") drain pipe buried & MARKED, into the ground, from your proposed site to your house (at a convenient location to get inside the property) Then run a stout nylon rope through the pipe, either on a loop, i.e. around a pulley at either end, or at least twice as long as the pipe length. This is to ensure you can get cables in from either end.... To start with, I'd run an armoured 60Amp cable and at least 2 external grade Cat5 cables, all suitably terminated & safety checked..... That should then leave plenty of space for any future updates....

Full specs are like that.....

Well the specification says that USB 3.1 is the same as USB 2 (https://manuais.iessanclemente.net/images/b/bc/USB_3_1_r1.0.pdf) so if they are to spec, they should power a camera the same....

To clean the bed & help to remove stubborn prints, get a cheap 30mm paint scraper, even better, if it has a bevelled edge, that can be honed.... (I get mine from Tesco, I think the last one cost £1.50)

Prophetic, no, there are just loads of different ways of doing things stashed away in the grey cells, that I picked up over the years, especially in my early career, where doing things quickly\cheap\safe& secure\long lasting etc. ruled the day\project....

Be aware there's a newer version, with some bug fixes....

I'm no horticulturist, but I suspect that if you cut the tops off, there will be no re-growth from the bottom, effectively killing the trees.... which may or may not be such a bad thing ??

Tried both of those, They tend not to last long, and even after a downpour followed by immediate freezing, can become like an ice-rink; I know, as I've slipped on mine a few times, nearly breaking appendages....

Put a gravel path down, as that won't become slippery, unlike the decking boards which definitely will, especially after a downpour or two....

I'd also think about some of the trees you have around the site, that may not be obstructing the view now, but in a few years. Also if you go for the 'bottom' of the slope, I'd arrange some form of drainage, even if its just a simple soak-away

I don't know or have this device, but if possible can you look inside to see the PCB ?? serial number\version, which may give further avenues to search.... Have you asked the manufacturer about your query ?

My experience, with my Mk2, is that the quality of the print, stays the same whatever mode is selected. Quality, also relies heavily on the slicer used; for me its either Simplify3d (Paid for) or the preferred PrusaSlicer (free). I have multiple profiles configured for printers\filaments etc. which means I can usually send the print to any of my printers, depending on the size of object etc.