Dr_Ju_ju

Simple answer is no.... I have one on my DBot, but as its one of the 'earlier' models, I've modified it, to change the single turn sensitivity pot, to a minature multi-turn type. This gives me greater control for the optimum sensitivity sweet-spot. So after the config settings on the Duet board, & a nine point, bed levelling routine, all other adjustments are made in the slicer software, whether that be Simplify3D or PrusaSlicer.

We have one thing that you don't, i.e. Cold Freezing nights, which will not only frost up the outside, but any internal moisture, will also freeze up, coating everything, which will turn to a water sheen on defrost....

So am I, so I've ordered one to have a look, and if needs be, see what modifications can be made, to improve quality etc....

Just be careful with the latest versions, as they can sometimes be 'iffy' with non Arduino clones, even though it goes against the open source movement.... I find using an older driver usually gets things working ok

A cheap way, put a box in the 'middle' with a RJ45 socket at either end, or an RJ45 socket one end & flying lead terminated in an RJ45 connector, (chopped down network lead) then inside the box fit a some 3.3v Zenner diodes, to limit voltage swing. You'll also probably need a couple of resistors to current limit when the zenners are fired....

1st off, the latest version of Stellarium doesn't require the use of StellariumScope, its all now 'built-in'. If it thinks its an HEQ5/6 than that presupposes an EQ mount, so you will need to tell the system that you are using an AZ mount, which shouldn't require gear ratio changes...

Yes, the DS18B20's are temperature only, but are easily integrated into a sketch, and can be calibrated to get an accurate range ….

I'm confused, how have you connected the mount to the laptop ?? As Peter has said you would need some form of USB to Serial device to connect the two, so that EQMod & APT can 'talk' directly to the mount (preferably) or via the handset (when put into direct to PC mode)

That's why I said, version dependant, but with version 19.2, I have no problem connecting\controlling my AZEQ6 using the Stellarium - SkyWatcher Synscan v3 device settings

All the large diameter wheels, and yes I appreciate its a fork mount....

Hmmm, methinks the design starts to look like a Mesu , especially if you're planning on automating each axis of movement

In answer to DinoBoy, if you are trying to use Stellarium, depending on which version, you may well have to use StellariumScope (https://welshdragoncomputing.ca/x/index.php/home/stellariumscope/download-stellariumscope) which must be configured & started before Stellarium…..

If you are trying to drive an AZ mount, then EQMod et al cannot drive it, they are meant for Equatorial mounts only. Yes they will drive an AZ mount, even to the correct location, but there will be image rotation due to only one axis being driven.

Just to see how far I can push one, and as I was after a single server, multi printer controller, combined with an 'on-board' slicer (various flavours), I've just finished a 3 Octoprint server host (can be extended) with PrusaSlicer & Cura, but will probably add others, all running on the same device

Yes, it's fully working

FYI, the dc controllers are easily dismountable (a simple PCB, & a plug-in potentiometer) so I've mounted a pair in a small container, with a single input & a pair of outputs on each controller....

Currently I just use a pair of these to drive the heater bands https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-24V-8A-LED-Bulb-Dimmer-Switch-Adjustable-Brightness-Dimming-Controller/153681027217?hash=item23c81a6091:g:bokAAOSwwb9doGxd Driving suitable length bands, similar to these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dew-Not-4-Dew-Band-Heater/124007058111?hash=item1cdf658abf:g:FSAAAOSwdndd8KMi

There are also 'keyed' header connectors which will also define connection orientation etc. e.g. https://gct.co/board-to-board-connector https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/pcb-connectors/pcb-headers/

Dew likes to 'form' in still-air conditions, so make sure there's plenty of air flow & provide fans as necessary. My system is open to all the elements, on the garden pier, and while on good imaging nights i.e. cold no wind etc. the heating bands wrapped around the lens cells etc., keeps everything clear, even when the rest of the equipment bodies may be saturated. I bought ready made dew bands, but the controllers are 'home-made', which I'm about to upgrade to Arduino ones, so that I can have better remote control....

I take it there must be some air flow, from outside to inside, for the condensation to appear ? if so then ensure good air-flow else silica gel\tablets may help to 'mop-up' the air-borne water. Have you considered using a dew band, wrapped around the outside of the lens\ota, Its what I have on my ED80\canon lenses, with no issues, but then I keep them on at a low level...

If you've not heard, Canonical\Ubuntu have released a new 19.10 x32 & x64 bit server images for the RaspberryPi 3's & 4's (https://ubuntu.com/download/raspberry-pi). These allow the full 4 GB of ram (Pi4) to be used, with no restrictions etc.... As these are server images, they come without a desktop, but its a trivial matter to install a basic one, or a full blown Mate desktop, you could even leave alone, if your going to run it headless..... I've installed basic Mate & the full INDI\Ekos\PHD2 system, which all appears to work ok, but have yet to try it out in anger, as its a tad damp..... Granted the current apps are only 32 bit, but with a fully supported 64 bit architecture, we may soon see full native 64 bit upgrades ??

Try https://www.astroboot.co.uk/AstroBoot all sort of odds'n'ends else, dare I say it, 3d print one....

Its a bit longer in the tooth, but there's also this http://www.scopefocus.info/home/autoflat

An example of the bases https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THOMAS-BETTS-TC5347AR-BASE-TY-RAP-ADHESIVE-MOUNT-Price-For-10/171948245251?hash=item2808ea0103:g:254AAOxydgZTIi5T as for pictures of mount, that will have to wait till the rain has stopped....

Lose the long wrap around ty-raps and the sagging looms, & instead, put some self adhesive ty-rap bases at strategic points, such that you can form cable looms that are long enough between each base, such that they will provide support for the looms as the mount moves.