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About Longinthetooth

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  1. Yep. Steve Collingwood is the man! Worked wonders for my LX200 when it went belly up. Can't praise his service highly enough!
  2. Thanks for your replies folks. Yes I used the Astroshed videos (very helpful for anyone aligning for the first time). My query is really about why I can't get the reticle engraving with 0 at the top (it doesn't move at all when you rotate the RA axis) and what I should do to set it back to the correct place. I realise I could ignore the fact that 0 isn't at the top and place Polaris on the "circle by eye" but I wanted it to look right.
  3. Hi Julian - this is the "new(ish)" Skywatcher reticle (for both hemispheres) which replaced the older model which had the Plough and a handy wee circle to manoeuvre Polaris into! I don't see this as an improvement but it's what the mount came with!
  4. Hi folks, I wondered if anyone could help me with this. I've had the AZEQ6GT for a while now and it's set up approximately polar aligned. I now would like to do this more accurately. I've had a go at Astroshed's polar cam mod (Philips spc900 with 32mm pipe end attached - thanks Dion) and I've attached the view I get through the polar scope. As you can see the reticle pattern is displaced about 45 degrees from the vertical. I'd like to get this pattern set properly but am not sure how exactly to do that. The reticle pattern does not move when I rotate the scope in RA. Reading the instruction manual suggests it should : "rotate the RA axis to put the 0 o'clock of the reticle at the highest position in the FOV" . I can see that there is a collimation mark (directly below the scale) which is also displaced - you can see this in the second photo. I can see little screws below the scale but don't want to start twiddling them until I know what they do.... I don't want to make matters worse! (I numbered the adjustment grub screws and have just replaced one with a thumb screw to make adjustment easier - I'll replace the other 2 asap. The issue predates this replacement.) Any advice would be gratefully received. Regards John B
  5. So was each of the 39 frames in the video above the result of approx 2000 stacked sub frames?
  6. Hi Michael - nice job! 39 exposures - would you mind sharing the details? I'd love to have a go!
  7. Thanks Wim - good advice and I did check the voltage 13.7V. Peter - Just a newbie error on my part. I hadn't pressed the enter key following the hand controller's initialisation when it shows "mode" - I didn't realise it was awaiting a response! One of those things which may seem obvious to more experienced users but wasn't to me. It became clear once I reread the relevant section (Part 2) in the user guide. It doesn't explicitly say " you must press enter at this point or the mount won't slew". Instead it says "Users can slew the mount with direction keys in this step" That wasn't clear enough for me! Duh! To be fair it does say press enter further up the page.... The mount still makes a noise when starting and stopping. In between it's just a quiet buzz. Cheers JB
  8. Hi folks. I've deforked my LX200 and bought a brand new Skywatcher azeq6gt. When I try to slew using the hand controller the mount makes a nasty noise and refuses to move. The tick ticking noise happened straight out of the box and although I have had it slewing since then, it is currently not moving as in the video. I'm hoping it's just a newbie error on my part and not something sinister...... JB PS NOW SOLVED - JUST A NEWBIE ERROR!
  9. Yes - definitely M12. Our local department store has an old fashioned hardware department so I was able to get a bolt and nut to fit for 99p! I had tried what I thought was an M12 bolt before I posted and it didn't fit. The nuts to match it went on the skywatcher dowel but got stuck after a few turns. I then presumed it couldn't be M12. I'm so glad I was wrong! Incidentally I have the same pier adapter to connect the azeq6gt to my existing Astro Engineering pier. I'll have to turn the pier 90 degrees so the pattern of holes on the top of the pier matches the pattern on the adapter..... Thanks again for the info gents! John B
  10. Hi folks, I've deforked the LX200 and got a Skywatcher azeq6gt. Wee problem crops up! I can't use the "primary locking shaft" ....ahem.....the threaded dowel which screws into the underside of the mount. It's designed to work with the tripod, of course, and I'm sticking the mount on a pier inside the astrohut. The "primary locking shaft" is too long as it stands and I don't really want to cut it down and I don't have any nuts to fit it anyway. So can someone tell me what spec of threaded dowel I need to get to fit the underside of the mount? I don't think it's M10. Even better if someone knows where I can get some.....! Cheers JB
  11. Hi Vincent - this being an old thread I just wondered if you found a solution to your problem - I need to join 2 male sct threads too! Regards John B
  12. Hi folks, I have an 10" LX200 classic permanently mounted on a pier in an astrohut. There is limited headroom above the scope when it is set up in equatorial mode on a wedge, the rolloff roof just clearing the scope when it is parked horizontally. (The roof was never planned to be as low as it turned out but I miscalculated!) Among the upgrades I have been considering was to dismount the OTA and get an NEQ6 to replace the venerable Meade electronics. A basic requirement would be that any new mount head would have to have a vertical dimension equal to, or less than the LX200 mount when it was parked. My question therefore is: Can anyone tell me how tall the NEQ6 mount head (no tripod) is base to top of the dovetail plate? I'm presuming the lowest parking configuration would be with the counterweight arm horizontal - would that be correct? Regards JB
  13. Thank you for your reply John. I'll have a look at the FLO website and see if i can lay my hands on digital calipers - good advice that!
  14. Hi all - I'm always impressed by the knowledge base here and the willingness of members to give a helping hand. So here's another query. I have been surprised and sometimes daunted by the variety of bits of "plumbing" required to connect components like focusers, filter wheels, focal reducers, eyepieces and cameras together. Supplier's descriptions such as: "supplied with a 1.25” eyepiece adaptor, 1.25” focuser nosepiece, T-2 camera adaptor and locking ring" (picked at random from a supplier's website - no offence intended!) will be prefectly clear to experienced users but don't mean much to newcomers to the hobby like me. I find myself googling to see if I can find out what the bits are and what they look like, and having accumulated quite a lot of kit I discover I haven't got the "bits" needed to connect them together. In fact I wouldn't know how to describe or how to ask for them. People might ask me "is it M42 or M48?" or say " all you need is a female t thread extension" or "a hosetail adaptor" and generally my reaction is to glaze over. There's a whole vocabulary related to the plumbing alone so my question is: Is there, anywhere, a beginner's guide (preferably illustrated with big friendly pictures) devoted to the adaptors/connectors without which the kit doesn't fit together? John B (Only starting to get the hang of it......!)
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