Dr_Ju_ju

If you want to drill & tap it, for mounting the box, then I'd recommend 2.5 - 3.0 mm x 50mm wide (to aid rigidity)

If you have any Paddock electrical tape, that wrapped in an insulating cloth & suitably terminated, will probably do what your after....

If the hardware is that old, then I wouldn't bother updating, as I suspect Win 10 will get upset & screw up the install & run very badly..... If you need Windows, on that hardware, then virtualise it & run it as a virtual under Linux.

Glad to hear it Louise, if you need any help, you know where to come.....

rubbish, even using an RC network will not remove the effect, it may flatten it out, but not get rid of it.....

That's the problem with switching dimmers, even going very fast will result in the led's strobing, or causing other effects as not all led's are the same.... Even using simpler voltage reduction dimmers, will at some point result in the led's 'dropping' out causing uneven illumination. That why I went for an EL panel, it just work with a constant flat illumination, that isn't too bright.

With my LED panel, I still had to diffuse the light, as by their nature, they are spot sources of illumination, and the 'spots' showed in the flats.....

None at all & I don't have to worry about trying to dim\diffuse point source LEDs (I've also made an LED one, but never use it)

I use an electro luminescent panel e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/BeMatik-Electroluminescent-panel-100x100-white/dp/B0115SWPPI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Electroluminescent+panel or https://elpanelandtape.co.uk/el-panel/. Mine runs from 12v and doesn't require any dimmers etc., just taped down onto some 2mm hardboard...

ummm, robocopy can also, continuously monitor folders for new items & copy them to a remote destination, it doesn't have to run then stop, but can also keep running, waiting for new files to sync, etc.

Use the inbuilt robocopy, granted it doesn't have a fancy gui, but its free & will do everything the others will do (some are just a gui front end to robocopy) and its easily scriptable to copy files between multiple sources\destinations etc....

But you do need to take flats for each filter....

If you've only just updated to 1903, then be prepared for a number of further updates, some which are quite large and WILL require re-boots. It will also be a pain as some of the updates will only be shown after preceding updates have been installed & the system re-booted...

the curse of starting sooo many, then misplacing the current running threads......

This is on my Prusa MK2 so standard 0.4 nozzle, bed @ 60, extruder @ 215 & 30~50 % cooling after 3 layers. I'd also recommend Prusa's own slicer (https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/) based on Slic3r, but very highly updated with updated profiles for almost all filaments.... EDIT - a picture of a just completed print, of non metallic clothes pegs for use in my pond filtration system, using Rigid Ink's PLA Plus (sadly no more), with settings as above....

I've never had any issues with PLA+, & I prefer it to standard PLA....

Yep, I use a 1600 for main imager & 120 for guiding.... Don't use the Ascom drivers, use the native ASI Camera drivers (current v6.0.3.23) then in PHD2 you can select the appropriate camera (outlined red box) In SGPro

Its easier to do away with the hand controller, and just drive the mount directly, for which you will require a USB to mount adaptor e.g. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/lynx-astro-cables/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq5-pro-heq5-syntrek-pro-az-eq5-gt-az-eq6-gt-and-eq8-mounts.html, Getting an FTDI chip device\drivers as opposed to the older Prolific chip devices\drivers, make it easier to work with Win10, even though there is an older Prolific driver that will work ok.... It should then be easier to identify which port the mount is connected to, in device manager, so that Ascom\EQMod\PHD2 will be able to control the mount.

or a hotter iron....

You can get geared & non-geared motors, that use the same current, especially at the lower rating. I use motors from https://www.omc-stepperonline.com, you can just select type\size\torque etc. and I usually get them from either UK or Germany,

….. but if you use a non geared motor, you will invariably start to use micro-stepping to ensure you get fine enough positional control, especially if step size is too large and if there's any backlash in the system, which there probably will be....

One big advantage of the geared motors is the holding torque of the motor with NO power applied, thereby cutting down the possibility of things getting hot, especially motors with a constant current..... I've used Nema 14 & 17's, and both work well, the larger the loads tend more towards using the 17's. I've just taken delivery of a Nema 11 PG27 for use on a DSLR rig, its only 28x28mm but quite long @ 86mm.

Go for the Prusa, it will just work & produce very good results..... but then I'm biased, as I have a MK2s, as well as others, but the Prusa is always my go to printer, unless what I want printed is too big.

I've managed to sort out my issues with the latest version i.e., finger trouble & board not taking defaults unless extra settings are viewed, but as you are using a DRV8825, beware trying to drive the motors too fast as that particular driver may require fly-back diodes to smooth out the current flow.

Only use the updated code for testing, as I've found what may be a flaw in the code with regard to step range..... and there's an issue with a library definition name.