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Found 12 results

  1. I tested the tracer polymer battery over a six hour period and although the red light on the HEQ5 flashed most of the time, and more rapidly as time went on, the mount moved so that the time on setting circles changed by six hours, suggesting the mount will track OK. (the test was carried out during the day). I did not try to get the telescope to point in a different direction using the handset. 1) Should I be bothered by the flashing lights on the HEQ5 mount? 2) Is tracer misleading people by saying their batteries are 12 volts? (they say that their discharge curves are flat) I found that the battery's voltage falls. Below is from the Tracer datasheet. ---------------------------------------------------------- Built-in Fuel Gauge - 5 colour LED fuel gauge mounted externally to show charge level. LED Status: 3 green & 2 red: Battery fully charged 11.7V 2 green & 2 red: Over 50% capacity 11.4V 1 green & 2 red: Over 20% capacity 11.1V 2 red: Less than 20% capacity 10.7V 1 red: Less than 10% capacity 10.3V No lights: Battery empty 8.25V ---------------------------------------------------- Thanks Gerard
  2. I was hesitant to write this earlier, but I wanted to try all possible ways to get my new SkyWatcher 250P GOTO allgined, but to no avail. I have followed the instruction manuals of both the synscan and SW, and managed to get the message "alignment successful" multiple times on the handset or the app. The closest I got when I tried to dial a different star was a 20 to 25 degrees off on the azimth axis. Most times it's off by a margin on both axes. I have tried aligning around 30 times on more than 5 diffrenet occasions, different locations as well. I end up ignoring the thing and switch to navigating manually as the eager friends want to observe instantly, but we ran out of objectes and the planets are not close anymore, so I figured it's time to get deeper DSO's and sort out the GOTO. Here is what I do: • I level the scope to the zero reading on top of the base • I make sure the base is level with a spirit level I bought recently • I point the scope northish, but latley I bought compass to pinpoint north • I plug all equipments in and then switch on the power from a lead acid battery • I enter the date ( US fromat, month before day ) • enter correct time zone obviously • the coordinates in the format of E 000 00 , N 00 00 • As for elevation I use "my elevation" app, not sure if it's accurate. Does this entry have to be that accurate? • I tried both brightest star and the 2 star align methods on the handset (which seems to be the same thing apart from the brightest method having an extra menu asking for which direction you are pointing at) I even used the synscan app and the synscan pro, and tried the 3 star align method. The app uses location and enters all data automatically •I use the top and right arrows as the last press before centring the star in the eyepiece as recommended by the manual These are the steps I follow when I align , is there anythung I missed? Your kind help is much appreciated. Update: issue solved, check the reply in the second page
  3. All, I'm looking at this battery to power my Celestron Slt 127 Mak with original alt/az mount. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Leisure-Battery-12v-110Ah-Lucas-LX31MF/dp/B0039TEDVQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top However at some point when the £££ allows i will be upgrading to the heq 5 GOTO mount so from what I've read on here that battery should sort me out for both. Accessories http://www.amazon.co.uk/TRIXES-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adaptor/dp/B005G39HLY/ref=pd_sim_auto_7 http://www.firstlightoptics.com/power/skytron-power-supply-cable-for-skywatcher-celestron-mounts.html I have a laptop and a meade dsi 2 colour camera, but rather than complicate things I'm going to buy a second battery for that which both battery's should serve me about 5hours. Appreciate peoples opinions on this regards
  4. Hi all, for the time being while away from home I have been using my car's own battery to power my setup but last time out I noticed some curious happenings & only recently have put it down to what I think is a power issue. I had setup my equipment as usual & my scope seemed to be tracking just lovely. I got a bit chilly & decided to sit in my car for a while to warm up with the engine running & heater on. After some time and slightly warmer I switched the ignition off, left my car & took a peek through my scope, it was way off target. At this time I didn't associate this error with a power issue. Once again, started and achieved alignment, scope was tracking beautifully for a long while, again, after getting cold again I did the same as before and got in my car, started it up and sat there to get warm. Some time passed. Upon checking the scope again, again it was off target. By this time the sky was getting light & I didn't want to bother starting a new alignment procedure so I packed up. It wasn't really until I got home that it dawned on me that the process of me starting my car whilst my equipment was connected directly to the battery could have been the cause for the tracking glitches. I understand that the process of starting a car alters the voltage in the battery and I am wondering if this either drop off or surge in voltage disrupted the tracking of my scope. Could this be the case? So anyway, I have decided to build a field power pack but just want to clarify some details with you brainy lot. CPC Mount 12V x 1.5A = 18W (i'll allow 20W) info from: http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/celestron-cpc-925-xlt-telescope.html Laptop INPUT 19V x 2.37A = 45W OUTPUT 14.8V x 2520MAH = 37.3WH estimate of power need through normal 6hr battery life (( 45 x ( 37.3 / 45 )) / 6 ) = 6.2W DSLR INPUT 8V x 3A = 24W OUTPUT 7.2V x 1040MAH = 7.49WH estimate of power need through normal 4hr battery life (( 24 x ( 7.49 / 24 )) / 4 ) = 1.9W DEW HEATERS (ASTROZAP) 1 x SCT9.25 12V x 1.3A = 15.6W 2 x 1.25" 12V x 0.25A each = 6W total 1 x 2" 12V x 0.35A = 4.2W So far I calculate a total of 54W per hour or allowing for a 12 hour stint 648W total I was also wondering if I need to factor in my ZWOASI224MC camera which runs via USB3 on my laptop & also my Flat Panel Maker, which runs via regular USB power? That said, I have been considering these batteries: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XNC7KZ0 which are a pair of 12v 33AH AGM Scooter batteries which should allow a total of 792W which should cover my needs. Do all my above calculations look OK? Do I need to place any type of voltage regulator between the batteries and the outlet? Regards.., Kirk
  5. Hello! I have been looking through the forums sections of this site and found that nichrome wire is a very popular material for dew heaters. I was using my DSLR a several weeks back, and the dew was horrible and it encouraged me to build a nichrome heater. My first heater prototype consisted of 22" of wire with a resistance of 4.08 ohm per foot connected directly into a 12V power supply (consisting of 8 AA batteries in parallel). It was wrapped in duck tape. It worked for a while, but then the batteries began to overheat and I had to pull the heater out to let them cool. When I used the same prototype heater on 6V (4 AA batteries) it didn't have this same overheating issue, but it produced less heat then when it was on 12V. I'm not using a pulse width modulator, but would that solve this issue? I'm worried as the heater is only really around 8 ohm, it may be short circuiting with such little resistance. The wire can't be terribly long as this is just to heat a DSLR lens. Any input on a solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  6. I've been into astronomy for a while now, but it's always been using manual telescopes (mainly a big dobsonian). I recently started considering upgrading to a goto mount and I'm looking at the EQ-5 with an 8-inch newtonian. I have a question regarding power supplies, the official skywatcher and celestron battery packs seem to be rather expensive for their power capacity, and I have an old 45ah car battery (It provides a steady 13.85V after testing with a multimeter). My question is what advantages do the official power supplies provide over the car battery? are there any downsides to using the car battery instead?
  7. Several questions, sorry. 1. is there a way to trickle charge multiple batteries from one trickle charging unit (where a 240v mains supply is available)? 2. is there a way to trickle charge multiple batteries from one trickle charging unit (where there is only access to a solar panel and no mains feed)? 3. in the situations above (1 and 2) does it matter that there is a combination of battery types (wet lead-acid and deep cycle gel batteries)? 4. can anyone recommend a weatherproof solar panel to drive this potential setup? 5. can anyone recommend a trickle charger to run off a solar panel to charge multiple 12v batteries? Batteries currently: 2 x wet lead-acid batteries (50-60 amp hour each); but these could go in time. 2 x gel deep cycle batteries (80 amp hour); very old and again could go in time. 2 x gel deep cycle batteries (110 amp hour); eventually will end up with just these at the observatory. Background: We have an observatory with no mains power. The mount runs at 24v, lighting at 12v. We are looking for solutions to trickle charge the batteries on site, and avoid the need of someone having to lug the 110 amp hour batteries away each time the observatory is used. The smaller batteries are being used as these are easier to carry, but the goal would be to end up with just the two large deep cycle batteries for the mount, and maybe one or two of the other batteries for lighting or to provide a 12v feed to someone who may bring a scope and save them bring power too. We don't want to explore wind power for the time being. Thanks for any replies.
  8. To have all the needed equipment easy to use and functional is important out there in the dark. I have earlier built an astroserver and put it in a box with wheels together with a car battery. That was in mind of to be portable. The astroserver work as a standalone unit and I control it remotly. As I see it it's a lot of advantages to have it like that when doing astrophotography. You can read about the details here: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-astro-server-and-powerunit/project-astro-server-and-powerunit.html But now when I'm ready to start to use my new observatory there is some different needs that the astroserver and it's power unit must be corrected for. My old astroserver works very well so I will keep most of the parts but remove the battery from it and have the battery stationary in the observatory. There are some other details that I have corrected too. As usual I have taken some photos and written text to it so you can follow my work: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-astro-server-and-powerunit/project-astro-server-and-powerunit-ver2.html I hope you find something you can use, or at least one little small detail. /Lars
  9. Looks like my Lipo project so far may be working good, ran a trial last night with a 3200Mah 3 cell Lipo from my RC airplane, the battery is an 11.1V nominal charge (uncharged) but charges up to 12.6V (4.2V per cell fully charged). All Lipo batteries display nominal charge capacity, which can be misleading because when charged, they jump up in voltage past displayed voltage. I wanted to see how long that went for before using one of my larger 5000Mah batts, didn’t take much more than $5 for a 2.5mm connector with 6ft cable included and a Deans connector on other end for the battery. I have a small voltage meter we RC guys use to monitor battery levels per cell and combined voltage, meter just keeps displaying levels constantly then emits a buzz when it drops to pre programmed level. The loud buzz I muffled to a pitiful hum by dropping some hot glue over the little speaker holes, last thing I need is an 80 decibel buzz at 2am in my yard. I set buzz for 3.5V per cell which is lowest you want to drain a Lipo per cell, after slewing around manually more times than I can remember I still had enough juice to slew around for another hour if i wanted, I was mimicking a nights slewing around and I think after I slewed around on both axis simultaneously on and off for 40 min I pretty much covered a nights worth. the test will be in the field, if this battery doesn’t cut it I’m sure the 5000Mah will do the trick. I was watching for any shenanigans from the scope as the level dropped but nothing, no glitches or twitching of the controller display, all remained solid. UPDATE: The next morning i turned on the scope (without recharging battery) and again spent the better part of an hour until i was just bored slewing the scope around, i was afraid to burn out a motor with constant back and forth slewing with a short pause of course. i am now convinced that this 3200mah battery not much bigger than the average candy bar will last a whole night out and more! fantastic to know that when i drag the scope out for short periods locally (won't need heat strip those times) that this battery will be fine. i was dreading having to take my 50Lb deep cycle marine battery every time id like to go for a short local 2hr outreach session, on those long drive dark sky all night sessions yes i will need heat and my marine battery but those a few compared to short local sessions. I can now fit my power supply into my pocket and that is just GOLD!!
  10. Hi, I purchased a Tracer 12V 22Ah Lithium Polymer Power Pack from Tring Astro Centre yesterday. I had a technical query after reading the accompanying booklet. I contacted Tracerpower by email this morning at 08:09am and got a reply at 09:06am. Less than an hour later , they answered my question with clarity. I purchased the battery so that I don't need to try and carry a 26 kilo battery at my age!!! The new battery is just over a kilo... So excellent after sales service. Well Done Tracerpower.... Cheers Adrian
  11. Hi, Does anyone know the pin outs for a Canon 1100D battery pack? I am trying to build an external power supply for my 1100D and have bought a cheap replacement battery that I have pulled apart, but there are four contacts across it and I am not sure which ones are the +ve and -ve terminals. I have taken some pictures of the regulator board that was at the top of the two batteries: The first picture shows the component side with the three contact pads marked B+, B- and Bc. The B+ and B- pads were connected to the +ve terminals of the batteries and the Bc was connected to the -ve terminals of the batteries. However, when I connected these terminals up to a regulated bench power supply unit set to 10 volts DC, I was only getting a couple of volts at a couple of the contact pads (shown in the second and third photos). So rather than go through the regulator board, I thought I would just solder my dc/dc converter to the correct terminals to power the camera. This is where my question comes in. Which of the four contacts as shown in the last picture are the +ve and -ve terminals. Sorry for the waffle and thanks if you can help. BTW: there are no markings on the battery case or label itself to help - cheap copy component made in China.
  12. From the album: PowerBox 12

    © SabinFotafotografie

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