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About Chriske

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    Proto Star

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  1. This is what we have drawn so far, more to come. Need to decide now what colour to use for these printed parts(pale blue in the drawing).
  2. Meanwhile another member of our observatory (Michel) joined me drawing HST parts. I'm very happy with him helping me of course. We already did lots of preliminary drawing.
  3. Nice looking indeed and nicely done too.. But there are far simpler startrackers that can be printed. Two printed arms, a hinge, a threaded rod and a stepper. That hinge is the polar axis.
  4. The 'tube' of this scope will be made out of 18mm plywood. The odd shaped side-panels will be made with a Maslow. These panels will be made very accurately. I expect their shape will be well within a millimetre correct. So when the mirror cells are all mounted in the tube, the mirrors to be almost at the correct location, requiring only a minimum of collimation.
  5. Thanks to you all for the support and the kind words..
  6. Together with my son Steven busy grinding the optics for this telescope.
  7. It's a bit strange that someone wants to design such a printer. It must have been a time consuming design/built. Do not misunderstand me, it is quit an achievement and I take my hat of for it. Well done..! But as I said higher up, I'd rather spend more time in searching to make my prints better looking. That alone is very time consuming, especially with these big nozzles.
  8. Yes, but not to big, I'm thinking mostly Z-higher.
  9. Seen it, but I don' believe in that project. There are to many issues with it. Most important thing for me is that the perimeters are absolutely perfect. I know many people will react something like : Nice perimeters with a 2.5mm...? yeah right..! To me a nice perimeter is one with no issues, ripple, moiré, ghosting, etc... And that is what most printers suffer from, one or more of these. I design my own printers and make them very stiff. Even my smallest printer I have difficulty lifting it up. I dare to say I do print perfect perimeters. Well, the perimeters printed with my bigger nozzles, yes indeed I can clearly see the layers, but these layers are all consistent, very regular, in fact very nice. There are no issues with the perimeters I print at all. If there were, I throw that part away, change whatever there is to change in the slicer settings to correct and start all over... Needles to say I wont be printing small and detailed parts with it... Don't think a hang-printer is capable of delivering these regular perimeters.
  10. Busy working on a big astro (printing) project. It'll be 3.2 meter high, (yep 10'+) Should be finished Sept 2020. So that gives me plenty of time to test these 'little' guys... (But first I have to build a printer that goes with it. Left is a 1.5mm(I have already one in use and works absolutely perfect) nr5 is 2.5mm and far right as comparison is standard 0.4mm nozzle.)
  11. Indeed. At the very centre these DK's are very good..!
  12. Take a picture with it an you'll see. A starfield will reveal that typical Newt error Visually you should not see it as in the ray trace. But there's a tool to get rid of that coma, coma-correctors. This is the ray trace is of your Newt Peter. Most probably there's corrector somewhere in that Dahl-Kirkham of yours. Without that corrector it would look like this : I know it's a 10" f/18, but the longer these DK are made the worse it gets.
  13. Comparing with other telescope types, when all is correct : FL, distances between mirrors and angles, nothing can beat a Stevick-Paul. This ray traces reveals it all : The small circle in the centre is the Airydisk. FOV is always 0.5° Original Stevick-Paul Because of its length, almost 2.5meter, I have chosen to use the folded version. Not perfect but close. Compare it with a Newt, even at F/10 it has severe coma. A Original Cassagrain Dahl-Kirkham
  14. Indeed.! That is why for this kind of precise work I always use a 120mm diameter spherometer combined with dial gauge capable of measuring 1/1000 of a millimetre. Still during polishing constant monitoring all FL is required.
  15. Not only standard collimation will be a nightmare Luke. First thing to do is arranging the mirror so they're at the correct distance, within a millimetre or less. That's is a very important issue. So all mirrors should not only be adjustable with their three 'standard' bolts but on top of it also moveable away from each other(or nearer)
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