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    SGL 2017 SP

Chriske

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About Chriske

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    Nebula

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    BE
  1. Kutter 2" f/28.2

    I know about SS, don't like to machine it...
  2. Kutter 2" f/28.2

    Mount done. The old stepper (I was planning to use) in combination with the wormwheel drive system is to large, it didn't fit in the wedged shaped housing. So I temporarily will drive this forkmount manually. If there's enough time I will add a new (geared) stepper I ordered a while ago. The steel bolt was not good enough, even after cleaning it up with a die the surface of threads was still rather rough. So I cut my own worm out of brass. I know not the best solution, but that's all I have at hand for the moment. I'm pretty sure there will not be a problem because that worm is running very slow. I need two more knobs, one to manually drive the polar disk and the other one to fasten the wormwheel to the polarshaft with a little clamp in mounted inside the polardisk.
  3. Printsonian 10" f/6

    Yep, erased all my 57 projects from TV. I'll host the Printsonian files somewhere else to dowload but later today. You'll have to do it with the source files, STP instead of STL. There are two reasons why I give you the STP files instead. 1- These Printsonian-STL-files takes almost 1Gb of space. STP is much smaller. 2- STP can be imported in any 3D software, as a bonus you can modify if necessary and convert it to STL yourself afterward. remind me if I forget...
  4. Ma Baby Newt...

    Let's hope you didn't print these telescopeparts using PLA...? nice project btw..
  5. Printsonian 10" f/6

    Files are available of course. There's no reason to keep them hidden from other ATM-friends...
  6. Printsonian 10" f/6

    Yep, standard 200x200mm bed will do. At the time I printed this scope I did not have a larger printer. Now I do, but I wouldn't use it I suppose. ..and thanks for the nice remarks guys...
  7. Kutter 2" f/28.2

    Hi guys, I'm pretty sure my worm will suffer from periodic errors, be it very little. As a matter of fact I'm not into serious photography (yet) so if there is any, I will deal with it later. But right now I want drive a scope for visual observing only. I have to 'disappoint' both of you guys. During milling, at the end of one rotation of the wormwheel(to be) the teeth overlap without any errors..! You read this correctly. Do not ask me how I do this because I do not understand myself. The first time I tried this technique was to make a hobbed bolt for my 3d-Printers and it worked very well. So with this knowledge in mind I tried it on a wormwheel to make myself a star-tracker. And it did work. So next logical step is to make a wormwheel to drive a real scope. I know, I know, thats something completely different compared to a startracker (to do some widefield photography). Nevertheless milling a wormwheel with a tap works very well, and like I said, no sign of double teeth or whatever problem could(should?) arise. Believe it or not I inspected ALL teeth with a microscope. There was not even a hint were the teeth would meet. Only yesterday I made 4 different wormwheels, diameters 50, 45, 40 and 35mm. All of them were perfect, no overlapping or double teeth. To be clear, I'm a mechanical engineer myself and what I'm telling you now is against all logic in a metal workshop, I'm aware of that..!. Still, you just try it, no need to do this with a mill. If you have a sturdy drillpress I think it would work to. The only problem would be advancing the wormwheel with a slow and steady pase toward the rotating tap.
  8. Kutter 2" f/28.2

    Forgot to mention, the worm is spring loaded so whenever the bolt is very slightly off-center it will always make perfect contact.
  9. Kutter 2" f/28.2

    To clean up the worm(actually a M8 threaded rod) so to make it more concentric and removing burs I use a die. It really makes a big difference. As a matter of fact you only need to clean up a very short part of that threaded rod. Sometimes I cut the treads myself. Cutting thread on a brass rod gives me perfect threads. I know not a perfect combination to make both wormwheel and worm itself out of brass or bronze, but as it rotates incredibly slow there's no problem at all. And a drop of grease improves smoother action.
  10. Kutter 2" f/28.2

    Did some tests and it's not working as it should. Initial idea was to drive the scope using just a contact-wheel. Seems that there's not enough weight to drive the fork properly. There also a second problem, due to the low mass onto the contactwheels, the fork/scope is very easy displaced even by a very gentle push. So busy drawing plan 'B', worm and wormwheel will most shurely do the job. So busy making a worm/wormwheel set. Making the wormwheel is not done using professional gear. The milling tool to do this job is a simple tap M8.(could in fact be any tap). It' a very simple technique. The wheel itself is supported by two ball bearing, so it can rotate freely. Pushing the rotating tap very slow/gently into the perimeter of the wheel, the tap forces the wheel to rotate and at the same time it cuts the angled teeth into that perimeter. It takes only a few minutes to make an almost perfect wormwheel.
  11. Where do get custom size optical blanks cut?

    Don't know but I already cored a 16mm thick glass blank with it. It' s a matter of a just a few minutes. If you do use these coring bits, you need to do this with water, LOTS of it..! I did it using a speed of about 250rpm. Mild pressure. It's rather noisy.
  12. Stacking software

    Hey thanks a lot guys, As a matter of fact this is not for me I'm asking but for my friend Marc. He want to use it for stacking pictures. And indeed I shouldn't have asked for the best software, it was rather stupid of me, I should have asked for 'a good and (if possible) a powerful' one. Chris
  13. Where do get custom size optical blanks cut?

    yep, trepanning is a solution. I have a set of these, works just perfect and very fast to.
  14. Kutter 2" f/28.2

    Meanwhile, mount almost done... Inside view - Electronics done by my pal Guy
  15. What would be the best stacking software. I'm a newbie in this world, so any advice is welcome.. Thanks in advance.. Chris
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