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About Chriske

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  1. Chriske

    3D Printers

    Whatever you will use to draw your parts, point I want to make is, draw it all yourself. Downloading thingiverse files you will end up with parts that cannot be edited if you need to. A lot of these thingiverse files will end up ok if it's a standalone thing. But printing complex parts or assemblies, 99% of the time it will not work. It would work, but only if you slice it exactly the same way as its owner ad needless to say using other filament and most of all another printer, it will not work. For instance If I draw a focuser, some parts need to fit into eachother. If after printing I cannot assemble parts because of error somewhere, I re-open that file correct/redraw and reprint until ok. Sometimes I end up with three four, or five corrections until perfect. It happens a friend asks me to add a feature to that focuser, well I re-open, edit and reprint as requested. You'll never be able to do that with Thingiverse files. There is some software MeshMixer(Autodesk) that lets you edit stl's but it is very limited what you can do with it. Needles to say I never print Thingiverse files, never will. A large part of the fun is drawing your own projects, be it small or large. The hard part is learning how that 3D-software works, but you ill benefit from it a lot once you master it. And again (in my case it is) it's part of the fun.
  2. Chriske

    3D Printers

    Well no Gina, but depending on the height of your renewed Giant, you'll need a crane to lift these things... And not to forget, we're only getting older...aren’t we..? And btw ordered some more PLA, couldn't resist myself.(at these prises..)... Bad news is : prices of that ColorFabb economic-filament is at it's regular price again. 42€ for one 2.2 kg reel.
  3. Chriske

    3D Printers

    Please do...
  4. Chriske

    3D Printers

    I hardly tap in my printed parts. Only when there's little or no force involved I use tapped holes. Where there's a force involved I always use nuts to fasten the parts against each other. In this part the upper-right hole I put a M3 bolt. About 15mm lower there's a 'square' hole. That's the hole were I insert a M3 nut. I use this system all the time. Makes mechanical connections even stronger. And what's more, when inserting a nut it never wears out if the bolt has to be removed from time to time. And second I don't worry at all destroying the thread when I firmly turn the bolt. That square hole is a press-fit, so the nut will not revolve in it's hole. If Table5.3 higher up in this thread will be redone using this technique, well, it would look completely different. I use this technique for many years now and it has never failed me once. While drawing, It's a habit, I even don't think about it anymore, it's become standard to me to install that nut.
  5. Chriske

    3D Printers

    I'd use PETG instead if you still want to use even stronger stuff and filament that has a higher glas-temp. It'll do for most of our projects imo And If my information is correct ...hum...you did order 'one or two' reels of filament a few days back...?...
  6. Chriske

    3D Printers

    Common Gina, you don't mean this... I will tell you a lie if I intend to sell you my product, in fact I tell any lie to reach my goal. Maybe, just maybe, it'll resist a bit longer compared to other plastics. Plastic UV-resistant..? that'll be the day...
  7. Chriske

    3D Printers

    And there's one other thing about PLA : Biodegradable ..? Yes it is, but takes YYYYYYears to do just that. But eventually it does. The main reason I use PLA is because (in the end)it IS biodegradable(basic ingredients : corn + printing ABS you need to suck these micro-particles (dust) out of the printer. And it smells awful...
  8. Chriske

    3D Printers

    Got a picture to verify this...
  9. Chriske

    3D Printers

    Hold your horses guys...! I ONLY tested whether white PLA would sag or deform under constant sunlight. Nope it doesn't, not at all. It does what it suppose to do, for me. It hold its shape. What I did not test is whether PLA would degrade under sunlight. UV surely will degrade almost everything in sunlight..! PLA or other filament is no exception to that. Can someone name me one other plastic that does not degrade at all. To prevent printed parts from degrading under UV you'll need to paint it. Using parts, say a telescope, most of the time during nightly observations don't bother, it'll hold for many years without painting. As a matter of fact all things, except bricks a, concrete, we paint everything that needs protection, why would PLA be an exception...? And btw, I only buy white PLA and PETG...
  10. Chriske

    3D Printers

    2 years back I've tested different brands of PLA and also a few different types. To make a long story short. Hollow rings (150mm diameter) hanging in the burning sun all year long. Started with 0.5kg weight and after a few days filled the bottles to 1kg. In the pictures were 2x PLA(black and white) another was nGEn and XT. The absolute winner was PLA that had nearly no deformation after months in full sun. The walls of the rings were only 0.8(!) mm thick.
  11. Chriske

    3D Printers

    Yep, black is not the best choice to make telescope-parts when observing(to long) the sun That"s why I print all outdoor applications in 'pristine' white using PLA. PETG is far better for outdoor applications.
  12. Chriske

    3D Printers

    I made a (almost)fully printed 250mm f/6 Dob (Printsonian) I'm always careful working with it while observing the sun.
  13. Chriske

    Upgrading HD Desktop System with SSD Drive!

    Going to buy me a few of these SSDs (240Gb) A 60Gb cost $15.99 A 240Gb cost $ 28.90 A 480Gb cost $50.30
  14. Chriske

    Upgrading HD Desktop System with SSD Drive!

    Just swapped a HDD --> SSD... that thing is fast...! Old PC's and laptop can be revived with these SSD's
  15. Chriske

    3D Printed Spool Holder (off topic)

    I also use larger (modest..) reels 2.2kg. But I store them inside my printer. Most of the time we(all?) print parts not that high. So the space in the lower part of my printers is always(most of the time) empty. For that reason I do install my reels (that are in use) horizontally on the bottom of my printer. With that reel inside I can print as high as 130mm. When I want to print something high I remove the reel and the 'renewed/enlarged space allow me to print 255 mm high. The filament is pulled up and guided through a teflon tube. Works perfectly. To minimise friction I removed all grease out of the supporting ball bearings and replaced it with a very thin spray of WD40. I also removed both sealings of both ball bearings. The brass shim is to apply some friction(adjustable) by bending these shims I can tune the amount of friction...

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