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Chriske

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About Chriske

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    BE
  1. I want to install a dual-speed focusing unit, so a new setup is required here. This is what I got so far. in this new version there's a timing belt involved. Left is done right one still to draw.
  2. I'd make it 'opening' motion.
  3. My pal Marc decided to make himself a Gregorian telescope(instead of a Kutter) That Greg will be 250mm f/24. Also planetary observing only. A few days ago my single Kutter-telescope I drew was almost ready to start printed . And at the same time I was left with an extra set of 120mm Kutter optics. (I was making 2 sets of Kutter-optics simultaneously) So I started thinking about that extra set of optics and what better solution than make myself a Kutter-bino... With a focal length of 3720mm it will be challenge, I know. But I made a few big Newt-bino's in the past, so why not.... This is what I have so far. A lot of parts I already drew for that single-version can be reused. Lucky me...
  4. Fantastic idea... I like bino's very much. As a matter of fact I (almost)always make binos myself. Busy building two(completely different)bino's at the moment. Most people are not aware at all what advantage it has, observing with two eyes(two scopes). And I'm not speaking of binoviewers here.
  5. Just ordered a small diagonal mirror for my Kutter. (Orion Optics UK) cost 70£ After ordering and paying(paypall) I now need to pay an extra 10£ before they send that mirror. Is this a normal way off working..? And what is 'Sales Carriage'..?
  6. Added a cover to hide the electronics - Contact-points power-packs - Fan -7815 -DC -DC converter
  7. Do not forget to order M2 bolts/screws...
  8. Meanwhile we've tested that partially heated beds I've installed in that Skeleton. I wanted to test if it would work, and it did...! I've installed two small 100x100mm beds side by side under 3mm thick layer of carbon-fiber. One bed is directly connected to the RAMPS and the other is interrupted by a switch also connected to that RAMPS. There's only one thermistor. That thermistor is installed under the bed that's always 'ON'. In case of very small parts Walter needs to place that object on top of the 'thermistor-side' when slicing. In case of larger parts he'll be using both parts of the heatbed. This is in fact a first step to do just the same when I start building my large printer. I'll be using nine 100x100mm heatbeds side by side to cover the 300x300 buildsurface of my new printer. In the end saves lots of energy(at my rate of printing...). A large silicone bed 300x300mm consumes about 750w(230V)... There's absolutely no reason why I should heat that large surface when printing only a very small part. 123 456 789 In case of very small parts I only use part nr.5 Long and narrow parts I probably will be using 4+5+6 or another possibility is to use 2+5+8 In case of somewhat larger parts I'll be using 1+2+4+5 or maybe 5+6+8+9 etc.... Needless to say the thermistor sits under bed '5'
  9. These units don't look very professional, I know. But when 'tuned' there's as good as any expensive dual speed focuser. I've don this dozens of times. When it arrive ,see how it performs. It probably will run very difficult(due to the thick grease inside). If so, let me know, and I'll post some additional pictures how to proceed to make these work with 'butterly smoothness'.
  10. You do have a lathe, so it should be 'piece of cake' to integrate that BD601 reduction in your system. There's one decision you have to make, how to attach that device onto your scope. I'd go for drilling two tiny holes in the back of your scope and use M3 bolts. There's also the possibility of gluing that lower ring.
  11. Hi me again, and as promised a few pictures of a another Crayford I just assembled with a BD601 unit inside. If not clear please ask...
  12. Ok now I get it... I'll disassemble my focuser tomorrow morning and post some pictures while reassembling it. It's almost bedtime here... I can already say this : The hole in the BD601 unit is 1/4" sadly enough(we're imperial) so in my case I need a very thin and small shim of copper to compensate for my 6 mm rod. You'll need a ring to elevate the BD601 unit to overcome the height of that 13mm shaft. You must glue (or screw) that ring onto the the back of the scope. That ring should sit around that shaft. I hope you're a handy man..?
  13. I'm afraid I do not understand what you're trying to say.
  14. Feathertouch and a few other brands are ridiculously expensive. That's the reason why we started making our own focusers with the feel of 'butterly smootness' as they like to call it. Reminds me btw just a few years ago one open door in our observatory. A few weeks before open door a friend just bought himself a Feathertouch and came to visit our part of the OD. He started to smile when he saw our printed focusers (we were demonstrating) with that BD601 unit integrated. He took it in his hand and started focusing, just to feel if it worked smooth or not. Immediately his smile disappeared asking us : Why didn't I know you made these perfect focusers..? I paid about 250€ for that focuser. When I told hem we only spent a fraction of what he paid, he was not happy at all. I do understand why people buy such expensive focusers. Most of us only buy(or build) one maybe two telescopes. But at the rate I build these scopes, my wife would not be happy if I would buy another Feathertouch or other expensive focuser again...
  15. Correct about flimsy printer setup, many people tend to use. It's cheap, fast to build, but in the end well, it is a second reason why ghosting appears on perimeters. That's why I always use 18mm plywood to build midrange printers. Planning to build a larger one, it will be even thicker wood. 18 mm plywood is not thick enough for say 500mm high print capacity. As matter of fact I do have problems lifting my printers, but I dare to say all parts do have superb perimeters. Except when I'm printing very fast, say 110+mm/s. Then again I do have perimeter issues from time to time. Together with a few friends we've build 20+ different printers. Some of these projects only lasted a few days. Reason : flimsiness. And you don't want to us these rail bearings in these reprap printers at all.
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