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About Chriske

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  1. Lathe line-up

    Yeah I know, that a possibility too between centres, but I don't like it...
  2. Lathe line-up

    All depends on the accuracy you're working with on that lathe. Indeed, if you load rather heavy axis in your lathe, there probably no need to grind the jaws. Everyone should decide that for himself. After grinding I put a straight and round polished rod in my lathe. I can assure you, putting a dial gauge against the polished rod, I see no movement at all on my scale. But again, all depends on the needed accuracy of the parts you're producing. To be clear, every time I grind these jaws, I only remove very little. Most of the time I only remove just 1,2 maybe 3/100 of a millimeter. I like my jaws(lathe) to be absolutely perfect. For my personal needs this correction is needed. I like both ends of every part I'm working on perfectly 'in line'.
  3. Lathe line-up

    That's not it. If you have mounted the 3 jaws not in the correct order there will be a severe wobble, not just a fraction of a millimeter. Best is to regrind the inner side of the jaws. That is the only way to have the chuck running perfect again. If you're a frequent user of that lathe you should perform that task at least once every year. The only tool you need is a Dremel with a small grinding stone. You should first prepare the jaws before you proceed..! The Dremel is fixed in the toolpost of the lathe. Lathe is running at (about) 300rpm, Dremel at highest rpm. Very slowly start grinding the inner side of the chuck until all three jaws are done. You should use automatic feeding mechanism to do this. After that grinding procedure the lathe's chuck will perform as new, the wobble is completely gone..!
  4. 3D Printed DSLR Hot Shoe Mounted Finder

    For what it's worth. Choosing a 15 or 20 mW laser it is not visible at all at 2 or 3 meters(yard) distance from your telescope. People standing at a distance of a few meters of my scope are not even aware I'm using a laser. Experienced observers always ask me how I manage to find objects in my field of view, there's no finderscope..? Even when I lit it they do not see a trace of laserlight at all. The trick is to lower the power of the laser until you can't see it anymore seen from sideways. When lit I have to (literal) bend over the scope 'eyeballing' in the direction of the laser. Doing that I very clearly see the green ray 'speeding upward' the nightsky That is the only safe way to use a laser without disturbing other people or plains. BUT...! In case of mild fog the whole country can see you're using that green thing...! Needless to say I never use my scope/laser during foggy weather anyway... Needles to say there are always idiots(sorry for that expression) using stronger lasers. During open door they show of demonstrating what 'nice' toy they just bought. One time there was that guy using a 150mW laser pointing to the stars with his toy. That kind of persons are not representative for our hobby. They should be banned from the hobby....period.
  5. 3D Printed DSLR Hot Shoe Mounted Finder

    Well, I will add a resistor to lower the light intensity. Purpose is to just(barely) see the (red)crosshair against the night sky. Never used a red-dot-finder before, so can't tell, sorry. Nowadays on my scopes I always install a green laser instead of a finderscope. I know, many will disagree, but it's fast and accurate. And it's safe too. In wrong hands it could damage things, Im aware of that, that is a reason why I will not install a laser on children's scopes ever.
  6. 6" PST Stage II progress.

    Please don't post this kind of pictures to often, I'm drooling all over my screen now, and you should see my keyboard....
  7. 3D Printed DSLR Hot Shoe Mounted Finder

    Btw, I'm busy making telescopes for our youngsters at our local observatory. To make a long story short, it also contains lensless finderscope with crosshairs. But I'm going to add a(maybe two) SMD LED to lighten up these crosshairs. Might something worth to consider.. I was also planning to add a universal connector to connect these LED's to a smartphone. But apparently not all smartphones support two way power traffic, pitty...
  8. 3D Printed DSLR Hot Shoe Mounted Finder

    Keep it simple Mognet, if you want a crosshair on both sides, print two identical parts(strand on the bed) and glue these two parts together...
  9. 3D Printed DSLR Hot Shoe Mounted Finder

    Nice one..! I would have tried a one strand/layer to make that crosshair, maybe even a rectangle.
  10. 6" PST Stage II progress.

    Thanks Rusted. I'll discuss it with my pal Guy first before we proceed.
  11. 6" PST Stage II progress.

    Thanks again for the file..!
  12. 3D Printer Advice please

    Best is to listen to a few guys who tested far more printers than we do(or ever will) https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse/videos Still, my own suggestion is to test with a somewhat smaller printer. There are a few good and cheap printers on the market. Buying a smaller printer, you can test first and work your way up to a larger printer afterward. I never spent more than 450€ on selfmade printers(built 'a few'), yet well built and tuned they will give you near perfect prints.
  13. 6" PST Stage II progress.

    Thanks a lot...
  14. 6" PST Stage II progress.

    Hi, Is there info to be found to build such a scope. A friend of mine is planning and eagre to build one. Thanks, Chris