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About Alan64

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    Sub Dwarf

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    ...astronomy, naturally.
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    Mid-South, U.S.

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  1. I would suggest a 1.25" 32mm 50° Plossl, and for the widest view possible. Your GSO "SuperView" 20mm that you have already offers a view almost as wide, but not quite. The 32mm(yellow) and the 20mm(red) compared... I have this GSO 32mm, and it's very good... https://agenaastro.com/gso-32mm-plossl-eyepiece.html It's a hot-seller, routinely going out of and into stock. Currently, there are only 5 left. Also, for the sharpest images, especially at the higher and highest powers of which the 5" aperture is capable, ensure that the Newtonian's collimation is as accurate a
  2. I have an ES/Bresser 127/1900 Gregorian, spot Maksutov. The Sky-Watcher is the same type. The iOptron is a Rumak Maksutov. It's heavier, with a larger secondary-obstruction, and requiring a longer acclimation period. Any obstruction will degrade an image; the larger, the worse. Such may be inconsequential or negligible whilst observing DSOs, but for the Moon, and the planets especially, the smaller the obstruction the better. Also, the iOptron is said to provide a flatter field-of-view. There is also the Bresser150/1900 to consider as well.
  3. Oh, how lovely, a rain-gauge, however what a dreadful portent.
  4. Just a few decades, and longer ago, quite a few telescope kits came with wooden tripods, even those kits that were small and inexpensive... That's my very first telescope, a 60mm achromat, and in direst need of restoration. Wood dampens vibrations better than aluminum, and perhaps steel as well. But in this day and age, after our seemingly having been jettisoned into the future, wood is out, and aluminum and steel are in. It seems as though wood for these kits has become scarcer, therefore more costly; or, its omission in the interest of conservation. I don't need a whole tre
  5. If I'm not mistaken, it's called a T-adaptor, the threads being T-threads.
  6. This is the area on your 660 in question... The red-dot unit is fastened to its mounting stalk, and with that screw on the side of the unit most likely. If the stalk is missing, let us know. With these entry-level telescopes, the manufacturer is going to provide a good telescope. In the case of the 660, that refers to the doublet-lens at the front of the telescope... That's one of my own 60mm refractors. However, the eyepieces and accessories that come with these kits oft fall short of one's expectations. The images will only be as good as the weakest item
  7. The original red-dot finder bolted on two studs rising up from the telescope's tube... If your new finder is the same as or similar to this one... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/celestron-starpointer-red-dot-finderscope.html That's a replacement for a bad finder. You remove the old one from the mounting stalk, if possible, then attach the new one. If that's not the finder you purchased, we will need to see which one you did get. Then we'll go from there.
  8. This is the OP's kit... https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/celestron-powerseeker-660-21041-ar-463187696 ...a 60mm f/11 refractor. I would suggest quite a few items to enhance the refractor's performance: a 32mm and a 12mm Plossl, perhaps a star-prism diagonal, and a quality 2x-barlow.
  9. In addition, elsewhere within another site, a star-mirror diagonal would not come to focus with that 70mm f/13, and I had replied that a star-prism will with my own. If a star-diagonal is acquired in this instance, to play it safe a star-prism is suggested.
  10. Hmm, I was wondering upon first reading of this thread if there was something wrong with the OP's draw-tube, perhaps broken rack-teeth, or other. But then, my own is a 70mm at f/13; the OP's a 90mm at f/10. Still, that is awfully short if that's far as the draw-tube can be racked outward. It does seem to warrant a disassembly of the focusser for inspection. Oh, I was under the standing that the OP did not have a diagonal at all; the kit used, in other words.
  11. You need a star-diagonal, for use at night. The telescope came with an Amici, erect-image diagonal. The Amici diagonal is provided so that you can use it during the day for terrestrial objects, and at night, but it's primarily for use during the day. A star-diagonal is for use only at night, and is the ideal for that... I have that same oddly-designed focusser on my "AstroMaster" 70EQ, and I despise it. I'm always looking for a conventional, traditional replacement for it, but I haven't found one yet.
  12. If you get it going, it makes for a suitable alternative for a 114mm Schmidt-Cassegrain. I have Celestron's 127mm "Bird Jones"... When it first arrived, the images were awful, but then eventually I got it collimated. Jupiter, before... It was much worse than that during the live view, with ghosts of the planet surrounding that. After collimation... ...and Saturn... Now, those afocal shots are not as good as what I saw live; almost tack-sharp they were. I would recommend using a collimation-cap and Cheshire to collimate the telescope howev
  13. Yes it does have a crayford-type focusser. My JMI crayford is without grease, but I know nothing about the Synta crayfords.
  14. These telescopes, and most all others, are made in China. You get only just so much finish and precision as a result. If it were before me, I would remove the focusser, disassemble it, and correct where lacking, if possible. Failing that, I would replace the focusser with one of better quality. Oh, incidentally, a focusser for imaging usually requires more precision, compared to that for visual-use with eyepieces. The 200P will have a visual focusser, as the 200P-DS is configured overall, the focusser included, for imaging primarily. But that's not to say its focusser would be any be
  15. I see that you got a 90/660 refractor recently, and a very nice kit at that. I have a copy of "The Backyard Astronomer's Guide", and enjoyed it. It was damaged some years later, along with a lot of other books I had. These days I like to read these types of books on astronomy... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=patrick+moore&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1
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