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About jambouk

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    Red Dwarf

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  1. Ideally you don’t want your sensor picking up UV and IR light as well as visible light, but you need to look at what the spectral range of the camera is with its own inbuilt UV/IR cut filter to decide if you need to use an external filter. All filters reduce light transmission and offer another surface to get dirty and put dust bunnies on your final image. Most targets will appear to emit light in a range of wavelengths, but the image you get of the target in question at specific wavelengths may differ between wavelengths. Take for example the Crab Nebula image below in UV, IR and visible which I edited on my phone and taken from the internet. If you try and merge all three of these images into one image, the resulting image wouldn’t be as crisp or as detailed as if you just imaged in say visible wavelengths.
  2. Does anyone have knowledge about the precise location of Stanley Hey's radio observatory in Richmond Park, 1942-1949, the first radio observatory in Britain, which emerged from Hey's wartime radar research. Published accounts appear not to be more specific than simply stating that the observatory was 'in Richmond Park'. Any information gratefully received. Many thanks. James
  3. Are any filters fully parfocal, or is there always a need to alter the focus when changing filters with a filter wheel for mono planetary imaging? James
  4. Personally I think your next big jump in improvement will be a different camera, rather than WinJupos.
  5. Great first go. Way better than my first go at Mars. There are lots of things which may be contributing to this not being crisper. I think the most likely culprits are: - seeing conditions - focus - camera - maybe planet rotation You can’t do much about the first other than wait for better swing and ensure you don’t have any local factors making the local seeing bad. Focus is hard, requires a lot of patience. The camera isn’t ideal as the frame rate is relatively slow AND it will compress the data before it is saved. If you did 12 x 100 second imaging runs, with gaps in between, you could be trying to stack data taken over a 30 minute period, in which time the planet will have rotated, so this may not help the crispness issue. It’s an amazing start. You should be very proud. james
  6. I think just a 5v fan blowing up the cover would keep air moving and reduce the chance of condensation forming. I wouldn't apply heat, as you don't want the mount to get warm and then at night release the heat which would impact on the seeing. I think ambient air moved would be sufficient.
  7. Make sure the ones you get cut out IR and UV wavelengths; I recently discovered not all sets do this.
  8. Trouble is that the scope already has a Losmandy dovetail and can’t easily be replaced.
  9. A friend has an older Vixen mount on which the saddle only opens up to 50mm. Is there a cheap way get a Losmandy dovetail (74mm wide) to attach to this mount? I've seen adpaters but they are in excess of £100. The mount is a Vixen GP-DX. Thanks for any replies. James
  10. I’m still unsure what you are describing. If you polar align with polemaster then don’t bother checking with any other means. Once polar aligned, unless the tripod/pier or azimuth or altitude knobs are adjusted, the mount will remain polar aligned. If you subsequently check with another method says the polar scope, the polar alignment may look off, because the polar scope itself is likely off. Just stick with pole master and ignore everything else. I don’t think you have a problem to solve.
  11. Clearly the nuts and bolts on the pier-tripod are just mild steel... Maybe whoever decides on the specs of Skywatcher mounts has never heard of moisture...
  12. I’m unsure exactly what you are describing, but if you are having to polar align each night on a static set up, either your set up isn’t static, or you are not polar aligning. I would stick with just one means of polar aligning; I’d got for pole master. If you successfully complete the polemaster routine, you are polar aligned. As long as you lock down the azimuth and altitude knobs down tight after polar aligning, and as long as the tripod or pier isn’t moved, and as long as no one adjusts the azimuth and altitude knobs on the mount, and as long as you are leaving the telescope on the mount from one night to the next, it will be polar aligned the next night.
  13. Use an IR-cut filter if the 224 doesn’t have one built in. When you get a good patching of seeing and when focus is good, I’d capture a run of data with no binning, then if you want do another binning. If you get the resolution down to under 400 x 400 or so, you’ll be capturing at 200fps or so, so I’d go for 60 seconds which will give you 12,000 frames per run. Do several of these over an hour or so and then hopefully at least one will process well.
  14. If the ZWO fits then I’d get one of these: https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/geoptik-nikon-slr-lens-ccd-adaptor.html
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