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jambouk

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About jambouk

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  1. A really useful article on Atmospheric Dispersion and the use of Atmospheric Dispersion Correctors by Damian Peach has been published on the BAA website under tutorials: https://britastro.org/node/9058 I'd asked about the use of ADCs on the BAA Forum (https://britastro.org/node/9268) and I wonder if many SGL planetary imagers are using them or have tips on their use? James
  2. If you can't find the answer, just look through it in doors with something like the edge of the TV on the left of the FoV and then note what is on the right side of the FoV. Then from your position mark out the two lines of sight with bits of string then measure the angle. James
  3. The meeting this Thursday (2nd March 2017) of Nottingham Astronomical Society at BGS is a talk on “Finding exoplanets with small telescopes” by Dr Peter Wheatley of the University of Warwick. Doors at BGS in Keyworth will open at 7:30pm and the talk ill commence at 8pm. All welcome. Further information can be found on the website: http://nottinghamastro.org.uk/ https://www.facebook.com/nas.org.uk/
  4. Even if you could make a wedge, the handset will still think it is an alt ax mount and I'd have throught will try and track things using both the altitude and azimuth axes and in doing so continue to give you field rotation AND not actually track your target. So I can't see how this would work using the handset. You'd have to some how take over the mount with other driving software. I'll be interested to hear what others say. James
  5. Yes will work.
  6. If the clutches aren't tightened all the way down this will be ok. But as said above, why not use the handset?
  7. It will work if it has the appropriate connector. Why not use your existing power tank? "Tank" is a bit of a misnomer I think though
  8. I've since found another book, American, but looks interesting. My copy has arrived, but I've yet to read any of it other than a few lines and it also looks like an interesting read: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waxing-Waning-Memoir-Amateur-Astronomer/dp/149903895X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487697572&sr=8-1&keywords=9781499038958 James
  9. The mount doesn't "have" to be equatorial for DSO imaging, but if not you'll be limited to subs of 5-30 seconds depending on focal length, position of the target in the sky, accuracy of set up and tracking, and all other factors not necessarily unique to an alt-az mount (light pollution and sky glow, neighbours security lights etc). Though having said that, unless you are guiding and/or have spot on polar alignment and good tracking motors and depending on the focal length of your scope, you may still be limited to 30 second exposures with an equatorial mount. james
  10. 'Easier' is a relative term [I'm sorry for my awful typing in the last post, this is what you get for typing on an iPhone in bed when very tired] I think DSO imaging with a roughly aligned equatorial mount is easier (quicker and gives better results) than DSO imaging with an alt-az mount. I think if you had the opportunity to sit down with someone who understands how equatorial mounts work and how the celestial sphere works then you could get your head around the concept of equatorial mounts and polar alignment in an hour. I think once you are at that stage setting up a roughly aligned equatorial mount is about the same time as setting up a well aligned alt-az tracking mount; but the benefits of the former in terms of results out weigh the apparent simplicity of setting up the latter. Yes if you get into this in a serious way you need to then start doing bang on polar alignments and get more advanced kit, but I'd still say if you are going into this thinking 'I want to image DSOs' then I'd go for an equatorial mount, but find buddes near by who can help. Make sure you go along to your local astronomical society / club.
  11. You are starting out with a good budget. I'm hoping this is just for the mount. i'd get a second hand HEQ5. Equatorial but relatively easy to set up once you know what you are doing, and as long as your observing sote isn't 1000 miles away from home you won't need to do anything more fancy than plonk it down and line it uo with magnetic north and then just do a star alignment. I wouldn't bother with a polar alignment ifyou are planning mostly visual stuff, a plonk it down and pointing north (with latitude previously set) will do. When you want to do 5 minutes subs widefield with the dslr this will be the perfect mount and you can get the polar alignment much tighter. you'll need a power source too - threads everywhere about that. if you are starting out wanting to do a. It of DSO imaging with a DSLR then make life easier from the start and go equatorial. James
  12. Read these two recent threads on related topics: James
  13. You need to make sure the polarity of any non-standard power supply is correct. And that the voltage output falls into the range of that acceptable by the mount (11-16v I think but check). You'll also find that 600mA won't be enough to move the mount, you'll need something which can deliver 1-2 amps. James
  14. If you are going to use an old car battery, I'd go for one that is at least 40 amp hours so you don't actually deeply discharge it. If you get a small capacity battery which isn't keen on deep discharge then you'll shorten the life considerably.
  15. It's all relative. If you are running lots of equipment and deeply discharging a battery and doing this often then you need a deep cycle high capacity battery. If you are running just a mount for a few hours a week and can charge it up afterwards a reasonable capacity old car battery will be perfect and for a fraction of the cost. Yes, if you have plenty of money then go for a brand new deep cycle battery in the first instance. I'm just trying to offer a cheap alternative which for the low energy consuming user will last many years if looked after properly. We've been running a 24" scope at our astronomical society observatory for ten years on the same four car batteries which get deeply discharged and only now are two shot, and with a bit of TLC I've revived the other two. The two revived ones will be used to now run the LED lighting and we've got some deep cycle batteries to run the scope. I've also got hold of two additional old car batteries (just last week) which I'm going to leave up there in case the deep cycle batteries are off site being charged. James