Dr_Ju_ju

At a pinch, you could always run a virtual windows host on the Mac....

Like Gina, I use one for driving a 3D printer heated bed, mine can be on for hours, getting barely warm, but it is bolted to the 2020 extrusion which will act as a passive heatsink...

Any moving parts, will over time, and with the help of friction, lubricants drying out, bearings wearing etc. and maybe a constant vertical weight, may well produce slight dead\not spots etc. If it was my mount, I'd probably just strip, clean and\or replace bearings, re-lubricate, as per (I think) AstroBabys self help guides. And while I was at, I would probably also do the belt mod..

Brilliant !! now what monster OTA(s) are you planning to put on ?? 🤔

Another thought just struck me.... as the modules may not have enough on-board storage, I have seen it where the control system, re-sets all the relays before setting the required relays on. It could also be the application\wifi combination, especially if the board is slightly under powered, causing the wifi connection to temporarily become intermittent... Your original post says your using an ESP8266 module, while I believe those types 'could' switch mains voltages, I suggest you desist using it, if it isn't fully enclosed & screened, I'd be more inclined to use a module such as this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4CH-Wireless-Control-WIFI-Relay-Module-AC-220V-Smart-Switch-For-DIY-Smart-Home/352934475998?hash=item522c88b8de

I wouldn't mix devices that just use "power" and those that are data devices. For dew bands, you will probably need some form of control, whether that be a simple potential divider, or more likely a switched mode power regulator, which has the potential to 'upset' the USB data stream, with induced cross-talk.... Also at the moment, you say you are manually focusing, so there is probably a little nag\wish to use auto-focusing, which will require additional control & power requirements, which its probably better to take into consideration now. As your are going down the rabbit hole, have a think about anything else you'd like to remotely control, and just make plans for any future needs now, but just fit the basics. If your WiFi network stretches to your Obsy, you could try remote desk-topping, to the Obsy, using your old laptop, which itself doesn't need to be powerful, as all its doing is running remote control, all the work is being done at the Obsy PC, so even if there are remote desktop dropouts due to dodgy connections, the imaging system will still be running ok.

IF you have any additional computers\laptops, you could keep the laptop, local to the mount\cameras as you have it now, and just use remote desktop to control it from your 'warm' room. An adjunct to that would be to use a local to mount Raspberry Pi4, to control all your equipment using INDI\Ekos, which in turn is controlled using the laptop in your warm room....

I don't have one of your mounts, but SW's standard way of wiring, would be to use 4 pins in the connector for the RA motor & the other 4 for DEC motor, both motors are usually bi-polar stepper motors. So if you have a suitable multimeter you can identify which pins are for which motor, and then work back from there....

Just use a standard i.e. one to one, network cable

I just used a longer mounting bar & then bolted a spare 5Kg counter-balance weight to the end.....

What do you mean 'bounce', the relay coming on-off-on or the contacts bouncing ?? if its the former then you may need to modify the hardware, usually some diodes, to 'smooth' the switching, if its the latter, then not much can be done, but wiring in parallel won't help, it may be better to use the relay output to switch an SSR (solid state relay) meant for use on AC circuits...

This will sound flippant, but personally I would just design\print one.... at least then, with the design done, I could make as many as I wanted.....

what do you want to use the camera for ??

You need to get something like this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq5-pro-heq5-syntrek-pro-az-eq5-gt-az-eq6-gt-and-eq8-mounts.html which will connect your computers directly to the mount, by-passing the handset....

forget using the handset, drive the mount directly by plugging the PC into the port that the handset plugs into...

Unfortunately, you won't find a power supply, fitted with a GX12 connector outlet... but if you are able\confident to make a lead up, then you can but one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-2A-3A-5A-8A-10A-Power-Supply-Unit-For-LED-Light-CCTV-Computer-Game-Console/172973837974?hash=item28460b4e96:m:ml1pDxPMZGldClNRWPtbb5g and either replace the output connector with one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aviation-Plug-2-3-4-5-6-7-Pin-12mm-GX12-Metal-Male-Female-Panel-Cable-Connector/283585673998?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item420705fb0e or make up a small power distribution box with additional outlets (for the other power devices you will eventually need) fuses etc..

On the mount, itself, the input power connector is perfectly adequate (GX12 2pin screw lockable), but the prevalent use of the ciggy lighter socket is the failing part. Manufactures seem to believe that mounts should be plugged into vehicle outlets ?? which I find laughable.... On my power distribution\dew heater box, I use either GX12\GX16 which makes it more robust....

1st mod, is to lose the cigarette sockets, they are easily disconnected\work loose. Use something that will lock the connector e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutrik-Speakon-Chassis-2-Pole-Connector/dp/B004BR2YD4/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2WBQLCH0NQZW0 \ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutrik-NL2FX-Standard-Speakon-Connector/dp/B00FN28RU0/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2WBQLCH0NQZW0

That is an old camera (I have one), and needs to use older EOS Utilities\software (for DIGIC 2).... If you have it, you can use BackyardEOS to run the camera, without the need for the Canon EOS utilities...

If you are into SETI, then it may be worth having a look at

I second the use of eMMC modules, my main Indi systems (Odroid XU4, Rock64 & RockPro64) all use them, sooo much quicker to boot\load\save etc... they are all running Ubuntu 19.10 \ Mate x64 & Indi\Ekos. I run everything locally, on the SBC's, & remote into them using XRDP …..

Hi John, You'll need to check the on-board voltages, but what happens when you try & drive the mount directly using your PC, by passing the hand controller ? If you use the "EQAscom Toolbox" you should be able to drive the mount directly.

Stepper motors run on current pulses not voltages, but having said, that a standard USB will supply 5 volts but only 1.5 A current (usually a lot less), not enough to reliably drive any motors.... There are 'beefier' supplies that use USB connectors, but they are intended for specific purposes....

Can't wait to have a try, the weather isn't playing nice ay the moment...… As its just looking for 'image sharpness', would it work for terrestrial objects ??

Unfortunately, I'm currently unable to check, as my mount is setup\configured in the garden, with a cover over it, as per usual its raining here.....