Dr_Ju_ju

which version of Stellarium are you using ? Is APT able to connect & control the mount ok? and you're not trying to run any software in Administrator mode ?

Have you actually installed Ascom Download Center (ascom-standards.org) ??

here you go ....... NEQ6 Pro Spares - Rother Valley Optics Ltd But before getting one, and if you have a multimeter, I'd be more inclined to first check out out your suspect board, by disconnecting all the motors etc. then measuring the input to ensure no shorts, if ok (~1K) then using a good 12v mains power supply, and with the multimeter, wired in-series with the input, measure the current being drawn (less than an amp if all ok). If all ok you can then add the motors one at a time, re-measuring each time.... The first component I'd suspect, would be the input power regulator, which are cheaper\easier to source, and if your competent at soldering are relatively easy to replace.

Question, how is it connected (direct or via hubs) ? & what is it connecting to (pc or Pi3\4 etc.) ?? forgot to add what OS ??

Personally, I'd recommend a Prusa i3 Mk3 (Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit (prusa3d.com)), or even a Prusa Mini (Original Prusa MINI+ kit - Prusa Research (prusa3d.com))... Yes, you'll pay more, especially for the Mk3, but you'll be up & printing much faster, especially with the in place support & excellent free slicing software (https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/) and even guides produced by peeps like Tomas Sanladerer (https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer) And I don't want to decry others perceptions, but its perfectly possible to print 'fine' threads, I can print down to M3 with no issues, or even larger threads 30mm x 0.5mm for adaptors.

Put simply, yes.... it's not just the lower noise level, but the complete signal to noise ratio. As for modding it yourself, good luck. especially when it comes to re-siting the sensor such that the focal plane is 'restored' to the correct position.

I have both camera types, fully modded by Juan, and overall, I prefer the 600D, it's the old adage, for Canon, the less number of digits in camera number, the better the camera, better sensitivity, less noise etc....

M2 defines the screw thread, so all M2 screws\bolts should be the same within tolerances..... As for suppliers, there are a few on eBay, that I've found are reliable & quick delivery e.g. Kay's Fasteners | eBay Stores

That's why I don't use the pins\sockets, as I find them unreliable, and depending on their source, can even rust over time..... And as some components are already being soldered e.g. switches, power inputs etc. I'll just 'hard wire' everything.

You don't have to use a Linux system, there are small board that can run Win 10, e.g. Rock Pi X – HackerBoards.com, and if capable of building a small PC then there are plenty of small form factor motherboards that can be used....

Instead of long USB runs, which as you've found out, can be very hit & miss, why not site a single board computer (Raspberry Pi, Odroid XU4, Rock64 etc.) in weather proof enclosure, adjacent to the camera, so that you would only need to either run just power, if using Wifi, or power and an ethernet cable, to the enclosure. You can then remotely control\download the images etc.

If it works, and does what you want, then all is well with the world.... In the future, and after you've had a play for a while, you'll start to make your own modifications !!

1st test is to put the power supply directly into the handset & see if then boots ok... If it doesn't I'd be suspect of the supply, batteries do lose the ability to supply charge over time, especially if not used\kept topped up. If it does work ok, then I'd start to suspect the motor drive box, unplug the DIN connector & try again.

If you can, I'd consider putting a Todmorden pier (cinder blocks) at your observing site, to which you run power and connectivity e.g. USB\Ethernet\WiFi, and either siting a small computer or the required hubs adjacent to the mount\scope etc. in a weather protected enclosure. You cold then leave it all assembled, ready to go, and cover it all with a weather proof cover, which can be tied down...

Don't know the motor, but there's plenty of info here, including the motor wiring etc. PF42-48Q4 | Products | Nippon Pulse America, Inc. as for driving it have a look at this site Tutorials & FAQ’s (astroeq.co.uk)

Pity that he left the day to day running of Microsoft in 2000 and only recently left the board (Bill Gates leaves Microsoft board (cnbc.com)) you'll have to blame Satya instead....

Accurate home position isn't required, as long as your roughly aligned, i.e. weights down & scope pointing toward Polaris, and you've polar aligned the mount, then slewing to target & plate solving is all that is required....

From what I can see, I doubt very much that it will work on Win7...... Edit: The download page specifically states that Win 7 isn't supported. https://www.astrodmx-capture.org.uk/astronomy/linux-macos-windows/downloads i.e. For help installing AstroDMx Capture, see the Installation Instructions The Windows build of AstroDMx Capture requires a 64-bit version of Windows 10. There are no plans to release a 32-bit version. AstroDMx Capture is specifically designed to run on Windows 10. Windows 7 is NOT supported.

Personally, I'd leave grbl alone, as it looks like its gone into the doldrums with no updates since August 2019....

Have you turned on logging within EQMod ? if so what does it report ? For AstroEQ have you run the Config Utilities from AstroEQ (https://astroeq.co.uk/downloads.php) which will reset your device.

Also, check that in 'Control Panel \ Device Manager \ Universal Serial Bus controllers', right clicking on each device and selecting 'Properties' then the 'Power Management' tab, if there, and untick the "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"...

From what I can see, the COMM errors indicate a loss of connectivity between the computer & mount, are you driving the mount directly or via the handset ? But I'd still check the Lynx adaptor\cables by just plugging everything in and manually (by hand) moving the cables\sockets about and see if any comm errors are reported....

And it looks like its getting closer, as there is Mac Beta that supports FITS files 14 hours ago, anon2 said: AP beta 1.9 notes include: - Added a new “Astrophotography Stack” persona which allows you to combine dark frames, light frames, bias frames, flat frames and dark flat frames then stack them. FITS images are also supported. So far only in the Mac version, but we can hope that it will make its way into the Windows beta soon

If only it would handle FITS files natively..... There is a thread running on their forum (FITS file format - Affinity on Desktop Questions (Mac and Windows) - Affinity | Forum (serif.com)) but as yet no response As soon as it's added in, it will probably the perfect tool....

Do they publish the specification of the control interface ?? if so then it should be possible to build a simple control system, using an Arduino Nano etc. and then 3D print an adaptor.