Dr_Ju_ju

I don't know if it will work with your mount, but I use these when I want to connect a computer to a Microchip Dev board (StarTech.com USB to Serial Adapter - 1 port - USB: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories)

You're still missing the final part of the drive. You can see the 'external' parts moving, which are connected to one end of the 'internal' worm drive, but if that is out of adjustment and not contacting the axis, then there will be no movement... Maybe this will help Astronomy Boy: CG-5 Mount Improvements ??

Have you checked that the Worm drive is engaging ?

I'm sure most of you have received the email notification, but for those who haven't the Raspberry mob have released a new device i.e. Raspberry Pi Pico– The Pi Hut which it looks like it may be able to replace the Arduino Nano's we love to use, and at less than £4 a basic unit, seems to be a steal....

In the Ascom setup window, under EQMod Port Details, when you select the drop down arrow by "Port" is COM4 one of the options ??

Don't use Ascom.Skywatcher.Telescope, if you've installed EQMod correctly, one of the options in the drop down selector window, should be EQMOD.Telescope, i.e.

As the Surface Book, is a Windows 10 device, it still has COM ports, but you have to dig to find them. Have you installed the driver for the Hitecastro USB adapter device ?? if so, in Computer Management \ Device Manager \ under Ports, you should then see the adapter show as one of the COM(x) ports, and its this com port that you enter into the software.

If you configure Sellarium correctly with your co-ordinates etc, then it can be 'real -time', and show what you can potentially see... There are also on-line telescopes, that you can view from your browser, e.g. Online Telescopes - Universe Today , The New Home for Astrophotography and Remote Imaging | Telescope Live, Get your telescope time - The Virtual Telescope Project 2.0 but note, most will require some form of payment, depending on whether you 'buy' telescope time, or 'eavesdrop' on a picture feed....

FYI, the software is also on sale for £24 !! see Affinity Photo – Professional Image Editing Software (serif.com)

Also add a rotator, so that you can 'tune' the spikes to the direction you prefer 😎.....

It is better, in that the larger aperture allows more light to reach the sensor, but a Coma Corrector may still be required e.g. Baader Mark-III MPCC Coma Corrector - Photographic | First Light Optics

Yes, but you may well need additional spacer elements, to achieve focus, and even a Coma corrector to 'flatten out' the image....

Sounds like something isn't meshing properly, or there could be some dirt on the drive worm inside the mount, so if your feel competent enough, I'd start by stripping down & cleaning everything... Also try running the motor with the belt removed, just to check that the motor is ok...

Excellent news, & the money saved for a replacement board, easily recoups the cost of the soldering iron, which can be used for other projects !! BTW, I still use lead pre-fluxed solder, as I 'inherited' a few reels of multi size, and even though I also have some of the 'new' stuff, I still prefer the old...

The firmware tool zip file, usually contains the iic files, but the ones I have, date from 2013 !! and if I remember correctly they are the latest ?? FirmWareTool.zip

Glad to hear it ..

Running anything in Admin mode, effectively 'ring-fences', prohibiting other software to interact ....

which version of Stellarium are you using ? Is APT able to connect & control the mount ok? and you're not trying to run any software in Administrator mode ?

Have you actually installed Ascom Download Center (ascom-standards.org) ??

here you go ....... NEQ6 Pro Spares - Rother Valley Optics Ltd But before getting one, and if you have a multimeter, I'd be more inclined to first check out out your suspect board, by disconnecting all the motors etc. then measuring the input to ensure no shorts, if ok (~1K) then using a good 12v mains power supply, and with the multimeter, wired in-series with the input, measure the current being drawn (less than an amp if all ok). If all ok you can then add the motors one at a time, re-measuring each time.... The first component I'd suspect, would be the input power regulator, which are cheaper\easier to source, and if your competent at soldering are relatively easy to replace.

Question, how is it connected (direct or via hubs) ? & what is it connecting to (pc or Pi3\4 etc.) ?? forgot to add what OS ??

Personally, I'd recommend a Prusa i3 Mk3 (Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit (prusa3d.com)), or even a Prusa Mini (Original Prusa MINI+ kit - Prusa Research (prusa3d.com))... Yes, you'll pay more, especially for the Mk3, but you'll be up & printing much faster, especially with the in place support & excellent free slicing software (https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/) and even guides produced by peeps like Tomas Sanladerer (https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer) And I don't want to decry others perceptions, but its perfectly possible to print 'fine' threads, I can print down to M3 with no issues, or even larger threads 30mm x 0.5mm for adaptors.

Put simply, yes.... it's not just the lower noise level, but the complete signal to noise ratio. As for modding it yourself, good luck. especially when it comes to re-siting the sensor such that the focal plane is 'restored' to the correct position.

I have both camera types, fully modded by Juan, and overall, I prefer the 600D, it's the old adage, for Canon, the less number of digits in camera number, the better the camera, better sensitivity, less noise etc....

M2 defines the screw thread, so all M2 screws\bolts should be the same within tolerances..... As for suppliers, there are a few on eBay, that I've found are reliable & quick delivery e.g. Kay's Fasteners | eBay Stores