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About Horwig

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    Caernarfon, Gwynedd

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  1. I've measured the clearance between the scope and dome, the idea was sound, there's sufficient clearance between the end of the OTA, but the guide camera on the OAG sticks out some distance past the end, so it's not going to work. Back to mounting the box on the end of the OTA Huw
  2. Question, should I hang this on the front of the telescope, or on the dome, and point the scope at it?
  3. Those of you with a long memory might recall this: My thread on building a large Newtonian Astrograph, well it's still ongoing, the good news is that finally, after a lot of stops and starts, things are getting together, the dome finally works, and the software all sings, one of the last remaining jobs is a lightbox for flats, but like everything else with this scope it's going to be big. I built a lightbox for my refractor last year, and results on the whole have been superb: So now to use what I learnt from the small box, and scale it up. That's a 600mm square board, with 18 segments of LED strip, same as the ones used in the other lightbox. Then built into a box about 170mm deep, the foil covered ring is 100mm tall, and holds the first opal diffuser The octagonal frame directs light from the edges of the 600mm square diffuser to the front diffuser, 500mm square Then a front cover to hold everything together, and here's the output The Correx sheets are glued together with hot glue, works well. At the moment the box is closed with masking tape so that I can see how much attenuation I need to give a reasonable illumination for flats. With the other box my dimmer would not go low enough, and I resorted to sheets of paper over the first diffuser. That will be for another day, and also working out a rig to hold the box in front of the scope. Huw
  4. Stand by for a new lightbox thread, the Correx has landed
  5. Correct
  6. Not if it's anything like the CAA on mine, it screws into the back of the drawtube, the captain's wheel used to rotate the focuser I believe
  7. That's what I guessed, is it not possible to get an adaptor made to fit a CAA to the TMB?
  8. Is the CAA not a manual Rotator? And can be motorised via the Takometer (If you can find one), or the mechanism r3i found above. Huw
  9. I too love the stuff from VSI, but what a price! Could you not get an adaptor made up to fit a Tak CAA from your FSQ to whatever scope you need? Huw
  10. Now I REALLY feel stupid. I'd been doing the dome work in daylight, and had to guess where the scope was pointing, I pointed it due South, but guessed the Dec, I realised today when I got back to it that the Skyview was showing the scope pointing way off in DEC, so pointed it vertically with an inclinometer, and sync to Zenith, now everything works a treat. How stupid was that. H
  11. Oh well, if I must Olly...
  12. I'm still trying to iron out bugs in my obsy. I finally last year got Lesvedome to run the dome smoothly, and am now trying to get the dome to track the telescope (It's a Sitech controlled fork). I've got Lesvedome to turn accurately 360 degrees, so my figures are right in its setup, the ticks parameter in Sitech is also spot on. I plug in the geometry of the obsy into SGP's slave options, the only offset I have is that the mount is off centre by 5 cm South, the only other figure I have is the dome dia. With the scope pointing at the meridian, I slave, and the dome moves to the correct position, when I rotate the scope away from the Meridian, the dome rotates too much, till the scope is missing the slit by the time I'm pointing due East or West. Am I missing something? Huw
  13. I need to build a lightbox for my 40cm scope. Correx seems to be the stuff to make it from, but I'm reading horror stories about gluing it. Anybody found a way of sticking it together without spending more on glue than the panels? Huw
  14. Well worth asking silly questions sometimes, just to hear Olly's measured, reasonable reactions There's nothing like experimenting with real data, so here's the Pacman in RGB: And with synthetic Green: I think that answers my question, but interestingly, star colours are not a million miles different. Huw
  15. As it says, should I concentrate on getting maximum R and B integration, and then combine them for a lower noise synthetic G? After all, if I see any outstanding green in my image I kill it dead with SCNR Light blue touch paper and retire to a safe distance...