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About Horwig

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    Caernarfon, Gwynedd

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  1. Very nice indeed, I've recently got a Star Adventurer as well, and am enjoying capturing very wide fields. Yours is very deep indeed in Ha, quite a lot deeper than the Ha captured in my Canon 5D3. Keep it up Huw
  2. This is a warning NEVER TRUST KIT/SOFTWARE!!!! I'd been getting ready to do a Cygnus widefield earlier this evening (24th), and seen the ISS pass at just after eleven o clock, checked Heavens above, realised the 00:40 pass was worth capturing, and reset the kit do do a manual capture, and here it is: Kit: Eos 5D3, Samyang 14mm at f5.6, 170 sec exposure at ISO500 mounted on a Star Adventurer Lessons to be learnt/remembered. I had been using BYEos whilst preparing for the widefield Cygnus image, and had been doing previews, then disconnected the laptop, and used a remote shutter release for this single exposure. My camera is ALWAYS set up for full quality RAW+full size jpegs, so when I opened this in photoshop, you can imagine my surprise at a small jpeg only. It looks like BYEos over rides the capture format of the camera when doing previews, and I hadn't checked that before the pass, As I said, lesson learnt, won't happen again... Huw
  3. guess what arrived in the post today... surprising what you can knock up in a few minutes on a milling machine Huw
  4. This was the first outing for my new toy, a Star Adventurer, I've reviewed the experience in the kit review section, but here's the resulting image with a bit more work done to it: Kit was a Canon 5D3 with Sigma 70-200 f2.8, at 200mm and wide open. 20*30 second subs at iso 6400, darks flats and bias taken, proc in PI, tweeked in PS Quite satisfying the diversion back to DSLR from my mono camera. Huw
  5. Firstly, I must say, I didn't realise that such a small piece of kit could cause such a long build up of cloud, but there we are, last night was the first outing for my new Star Adventurer, bought from FLO a month ago. It will be used as my travelling kit, so I'm trying hard to find a light, foolproof setup. Its mounted on my trusty Slik SL67 tripod from the late Seventies, a solid, heavy aluminium affair. The fitted video head screws off to reveal a 1/4 inch stub, to which the Altitude wedge screws, with a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor. I bought the 'Astro photography bundle' reckoning that the small(ish) extra outlay would be well spent. After much playing around indoors, I did without the declination plate. The thinking was that to frame objects I would have to rotate the camera, so would have to use a ball head or some such in addition to the dec plate. After playing around, it was obvious that the ball head could accomplish all the movement, without using the plate, so off it came. So here is the setup. The ball head fits onto the 3/8 spigot which was revealed when the dec plate was removed. The lower 3/8 spigot, next to the counterweight bar, was removed, and a 1/4 bolt through the central cutout slot was used to mount the ASI120 camera and 50mm f1.8 Nikkor lens used for polar alignment. The polar scope still has a clear view between the ball head and the ASI camera for rough (Northern hemisphere) alignment. I use SharpCap on a Netbook to PA this setup, and last night was my first attempt with the combination. I must say that my normal transportable imaging rig consists of an AZ-EQ6, and with that I use the same ASI camera/lens combination to PA, but with a very powerful Dell Inspiron laptop. Firtly, this is no AZ-EQ6, any correction must be made VERY gently, or everything is thrown off, the wedge adjustment screw are VERY coarse, as is the AZ adjustment, and the mount is VERY light in comparison to the payload. Also, It did not help that the little Asus netbook I have is lacking in horsepower, so solves that are near instant on the big Dell were taking forever, so over-correction was the order of the day (well night really). Now, I do understand that this type of mount is primarily designed for wide field views of the sky, but where would the fun be in that for a real test, so for its first outing, my new mount had to work a little bit harder. Enter my Canon 5D3, with a Sigma 70-200 f2.8. The original plan had been to mount the ASI on a second ball head, so I could PA, then swing the camera, and guide with the same lens, this quickly proved to be over ambitious, getting the fov within 5 degrees of the pole to PA was difficult enough, but then the same lens proved too wide to guide with, so I gave up on trying to guide altogether. CUT TO THE CHASE After the long preamble, and a lot of fiddling as it was getting (not quite) dark last night, I settled for 30 second subs at 200mm, un-guided, that's about 6.5 "/pixel, and this is the result of 20 * 30 sec subs at 6400 ISO, with bias, darks and flats in PI, and then tweeked in PS. Processing is open to discussion, it's not my strong point, but I'm quietly optimistic that I can get this setup to work eventually. I've a big trip coming up this October. It's a significant birthday, and my wife has announced a surprise trip to the Atacama in Chile for us, so I've just under three months to get this sorted!!!!!!!!!!! Huw
  6. Don't we all, clear and DARK would be very nice, I've forgotten how my kit works by now Huw
  7. If I can add to the OT right angle USB discussion, they are the only way to go. I've used right angle USB and power connectors on all my kit, and then everything loomed and cable tied to the kit, in theory at least there should be no strain on the very fragile sockets. Back on topic, love the spec of the 16200 btw, looking forwards to results. Huw
  8. Yes, it's been two years since my visit, the skies may be awesome, but the daytime views do not lack appeal, here's the view from our bedroom:- I doubt anybody can fault that view... Huw
  9. Yup, not good,probably 10.4 is JUST too low. Good to have it sorted Huw
  10. This might be totally un connected to your problem, but I had fun when I started to use my AZ-EQ 6. I was using Stellarium and eqmod. At first I'd point at a known object, and sync in stellarium scope, then likely as not when I gave it a goto to another object it would go the wrong way, or end up pointing some distance away, or stop entirely. What I was not doing was initializing the mount, ie, the mount must be switched on pointing North, counterweights down, and then the mount and software know that it's pointing North when connected, then when I manually move to point at an object, and sync in stellarium, everything works. Don't know if that is in any way related? Huw
  11. Thanks Darren, that looks good, my long lens is a Sigma 70-200 f2.8, which I can run as 280mm f4 with an extender, so should not be a problem then. Huw
  12. My Star Adventurer had finally arrived, and I've started playing with setups. Here it is with my Canon 5d3 and 24-105. I've put the camera on a bracket here to get vertical format, which pushes the cog away from the RA axis. The camera is also lens heavy, so I've offset the counterweight to the rear. Am I worrying too much about balancing the kit? I know the quoted carrying capacity is 5Kg, but I take it that's on axis. Has anybody any thoughts on the real world carrying capacity for long subs? I've a trip to the southern hemisphere coming up for this setup, so planning to use a netbook with Sharpcap and the ZWO camera to PA, and if needed, to guide with longer lenses on long subs
  13. Mine is finally on order with FLO now they have stock again, gone for the astro photo bundle. Looking forwards to it, but I apologise for any cloud it produces Huw
  14. Thanks Waldemar, and aplogies for hijacking your thread.
  15. You can never bee too careful, nothing to do with active optics, everything to do with system design... I too have two power supplies, one for a 'clean' supply, and another that powers everything else. By clean, I mean everything in the imaging signal path, ie, camera and usb hub, mount, dome and anti dew are fed off the 'dirty' supply, so no problem there, OR SO I THOUGHT. I always had a nagging doubt that something was wrong with my mount, it would sometimes go off in RA for no particular reason, and no amount of fault finding would amount to anything. My dome is powered by a pair of 12V car wiper motor/gearboxes, which I initially had in series, but since I needed more torque, I now run in parallel. After the rewire of the motors, it was obvious that when I slewed the dome, the mount would often kick off on a random movement,so to cut a long story short, applying a scope to the dirty supply revealed that whenever the dome motors cut in, there was a momentary dip in dirty supply voltage to near zero, which kicked off the mount. The solution was quick and easy, a 1000 microfarad capacitor across the supply incoming to the dome control box removed the high current demand spike from the dirty supply, now the voltage drop on motor run is less than a volt, and the mount now behaves itself. Lesson learnt I believe. Huw As an aside, and nothing to do with the contents of this post, when I go back to edit my post my PC has decided to overwrite rather than insert text, Ive put up with it, but am getting bored, what's the magic keypress to change it in win7?