Stuart1971

I had all my inside and outside lights on a wireless smart plug, (only spare timer plug I had) which monitors usage, and they are all LED as most are, and for the month they were up they cost 34p to run, so not really an issue.....unless you are extremely tight.... 😀👍🏼

What wrong with that....it’s keeping some people sane with everything that’s going on.... 👍🏼

Hmmmm, I have the same scope, and no issues like the ones you see at all....this image is cropped...but stars are good...

I thought it was 56mm, I’m sure i ha e read that in a few places... 👍🏼

With your size of sensor you do not need the flattener, the flat-field of this scope should cover that sensor no problem, they brought out the flattener for the FSQ85 for full frame sensors...so try without that first...also what back spacing do you have from flattener to sensor...it should be 56mm if I remember...?

Hmmmm, not sure on that one, it’s something Ive not done or tried myself...but I will find out... 👍🏼

Just get a raspberry PI, it will do the lot with Astroberry....cheap and very small....you can run it all from that, or just use it as a INdI driver server on the mount, and then run the Kstars software from your indoor PC, completely wireless........ 👍🏼

If it helps at all the Altair cameras and others, are made by Chinese company Touptek and just etched with Altair’s logo....whereas ASI and QHY manufacture there own...The risingcam versions are probably no different to Altair’s....so if they are a lot cheaper, I would go for it.... 👍🏼

I had it for a few years, and then last year I bit the bullet, and bought a Tak FSQ85 and a smaller FS60cb, and never looked back, but it’s great to watch these videos of how they are made.... 👍🏼😀

Very good video....but just an FYI it’s not SVBONEY.... 😀 it’s SVBONY.....sounded funny when you said “SV BONEY”...but nice one...👍🏼

Just put a small heater under Instead (as i mentioned above) and then no condensation to catch, which is much better in the long run.... 👍🏼

Heat with ventilation will always help...it’s a good combination....its how I stop it, as I mentioned above...maybe you just need a bit more heat to raise the temp a little more... 👍🏼

I have heard that domes are prone to condensation, so I agree a better ventilation system for them would be a good idea...but I don’t think that after spending thousands on a dome you should really have to then use a dehumidifier to keep it condensation free....they should be better designed with better ventilation. I just think treating the symptoms of condensation Is not the answer, it needs to be stopped in the first place. I have my EQ8 mount under a Telegizmo 365 cover, and secured at the bottom so just a little air can circulate, this along with a small 12v 20w dew strap keeps it at 7 degrees above ambient all the time, the humidity has never gone above 65% so no chance of condensation....👍🏼

Well if the air is damp, which I agree it has been, and the kit in the shed is no colder than the outside air temp, then condensation will not form, it’s just physics... So if you are getting condensation then you need to change something...it’s not just about the air being damp, air is alway damp....there is much more at play here...

Just ventilate the space, and you would not need them at all, why treat the symptoms when you could stop the cause....👍🏼

When you have this mod, you have one of the two filters in these cameras removed, they both cut IR but the one that’s removed also blocks much of the Ha, hence why it’s removed, the one left in the camera cuts IR very well, and for that reason is left in the camera, so you will only need the CLS version and NOT the CLS CCD version....if you have both filters removed from the camera as @tooth_dr has pointed out it is a full spectrum mod and IR cut would then be needed.... HTH 👍🏼😀

What I have found is a Baader M43 to M42 adapter, this is specifically for these scopes and allows M42 accessories to be fitted, if you look as the pieces that come on the scope, you will see that there is an M43 thread just after the two largest spacers, see red arrow on right of image below, from this point on you can then fit M42 adapters...

Hi, No I am still a bit confused where all this is concerned....the focus point is apparently at 151mm behind the back edge of the focuser housing. I saw your other thread about this backspacing issue, and see you have the reducer....the backspace for this is 56mm, but not sure where the reducer goes, directly on the back of the scope or after some spacers, the issue with Taks, is they use non standard thread sizes, which makes betting spacers really awkward...the threads on the reducer are M56 on the scope side, and M52 on the camera side, but I can’t find spacers with either of these threads....☹️

Absolutely beautiful, so much detail in mono images, much more than I have seen before on this target.... 👍🏼👍🏼

It just seems a lot of hassle for you to get all connected, and then have issues, when there must be an easier way with the kit you have... 👍🏼

Do you have to try and connect the Synscan wifi to both your PC and to the RPI....? Why CANT both the mount and the RPI connect to your home wifi...?

If you decide to order from RVO, make sure you email them first, as they have a big habit of showing things in stock and then not actually having them, they are renowned for this..... 😮👍

The ASI120MC USB 2.0 version, is not longer supported by ASI, there is a firmware upgrade that came out a while ago, but dont think it helps much with some OS’s. The fact that operating systems and imaging software has moved on, and the driver for the ASI120 has not, is part of the issue... ☹️👍

Yes, that’s the sort of thing I was referring too, look on Amazon too, as there are some on there....and cheaper...

It’s a common issue, we are certainly not alone...? If you do a search for camera angle adjusters, you may get some ideas.... 👍🏼