Stuart1971

I have just received one of these focusers from AstrOasis for a full review, which I will be putting together in the next few weeks…but first impressions is that it’s a really nice bit of kit and seems to work really well…👍🏻

But none of that makes a difference to what the OP asked for, he wants to be able to switch a monitor on and off via Alexa whether by voice command or an app when he is at the eyepiece, why..? Who knows… So using a smart plug gives this option, the monitor is turned on at its switch, and left on, and then it can be turned on and off via the smart plug, it’s then up to him to sort out the PC and power saving functions and so on and so fourth…as that was not mentioned….but easy enough to configure…

Yes I tried it too, and would work just as the OP asked for….🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️

Yes, that too….but does not seem to fit the OP’s needs…..🤷🏼‍♂️

I have a Mele Overclock 3c for sale in the classifieds….👍🏻

Maybe I am missing something, but you buy a monitor, and an Alexa smart plug, and plug the monitor into the smart plug, smart plug into the wall outlet, turn the monitor on, and then control it on and off through the smart plug, via an app on smartphone or tablet, or via voice if you have an Alexa unit…….simples….🤷🏼‍♂️

@fireballxl5 @bosun21 cheers guys, I was finding it hard and even starting to doubt myself…..😂

Of course you will have to leave the monitor turned on by its own on/off switch and then control form the smart plug.. Just tried one on my monitor and it worked….

Yes it would of course….the plug will turn it on and off, but when it’s turned on, if there is no live PC connected it will go on to standby after a few seconds just like it would anyway… I have used them for years on all sorts of things…

No, as I showed you earlier taken from there spec, it does not expect 12v from either port, it can take 12v to 18v on one port and 12v to 20v on the other, it does not have to be a flat regulated 12v at all…..

Would it really have made any difference….you obvioulsy had reservations about using anything other than the cheap Chinese 12v adapter supplied with the PC The PC can run on any DC power supply, that can put out anything between 12 and 18v, on either of the 2 USB C ports…it’s as simple as that…the PC will just draw the power it needs from the connected supply, that’s how the PD works, simple as that….whether it be a DC power supply of some description, or lead acid battery, a Lifepo battery or a potato battery….as long as it’s between 12 and 18v

Well I can assure you mine is powered from my Astro power box that just shoved out 13.4v and has worked this way for a while now…. Never used the 12v supply that came with it, which BTW is not a power delivery power supply, that part is built into the PC ‘But I will bow out now Good luck

Just add a cheap Alexa enabled smart plug to any monitor….👍🏻

You don’t have to power it from anything that has power delivery technology as that is built into the PC not the power supply, so just use a DC power source that supplies between 12v and 20v and all is good…

Sorry but I think you are over thinking it It can be powered for any DC power supply that delivers 12v to 18v or 20v depending on which port you power it from So if you are using the normal USB C power input port on the PC, then up to 20v, so if you are using a 12v battery, then I have no idea what the issue is….🤔🤔

This is from there spec sheet 2 USB-C 1*Full function USB-C for data transfer(10Gbps), display and power input(PD3.0), 12V~18V. 1*USB-C only for power input,12V/2A, Support PD3.0, 12V~20V.

You can actually power this PC through either of the USB C ports, one you can use up to 18v, and the other one I believe up to 20v, as this PC has built in power delivery system 👍🏻

Absolutely fine as this PC can take up to 18v input, and will just take what it needs….i use one too on a 13.8v supply…👍🏻

I agree, SX kit is superb, but always on the very expensive side, I have been waiting for them to bring out an IMX571 based camera, but now they are, I dare not ask the price…😮😮

Not sure if it will help, but I would install all the camera drivers available in the list when installing the driver, as I have a feeling I did the same as you and it didn’t work when I first got my camera…

This is going to happen more and more now, just buy a cheap £500 scope and use BlurX….😂 I think you should always aim to get the best possible collimation, and tilt adjusted out, at the end of the day you have paid a lot for the scope, so why be happy with it working about as well as as one that would have been 1/4 of the price…in my eyes you will have wasted a lot of money….

I really wouldn’t go down the QHY beta route, the stable drivers from QHY are pretty dire at the best of times, hence why I don’t upgrade from a 2022 version, it’s not worth the trouble….especially with latest windows 11… But that’s just me….🤷🏼‍♂️

You won’t go far wrong with buying any of the available CMOS IMX571 based cameras, which is what the ASI2600 is along with the QHY268, which I have both mono and colour models. It’s a perfect APS-C size sensor and a good pixel size, hight sensitivity and low noise, no amp glow, I think these cameras will be around for a very long time… if you want al, the same spec in a smaller sensor, depending on your set up, then the IMX533 seems to fit that bill, known as the 2600’s little brother and 1” square sensor, yes a square sensor so no need to worry about framing or rotating as much…

I think it may be to do with the boxes you are selecting or not selecting during the driver set up process… You should select the cameras and the ASCOM driver ONLY when installing, whatever happens do not select any of the software boxes, such as NINA or Sharpcap, as it uninstalls the proper SDK for the QHY and re installed the one included with the driver, and the NINA devs will tell you this is bad….really bad… Also if you forget to select a certain box, it will assume that you want that particular item uninstalled, if it is already installed, it’s an awful driver and QHY will not change the way it works as the NINA devs again have tried to tell them on numerous occasions…

I’m using the one that was the latest version when I bought the camera, which was approx March 2022..and the camera firmware is the same as what it came with from 2021, when I assume is was made, but there are newer drivers and firmware for this camera….but if it ain’t broke…….👍🏻