Stuart1971

Also available here... https://www.astroshop.eu/flatfield-masks/geoptik-210mm-flat-field-generator/p,22810

Hi, I had one a month or so ago, and TBH it was rubbish....no,where near bright enough for NB, and barely bright enough for LRGB, I tried to contact Pegasus, and they never even replied....so sent it back...and bought the Geoptik version and it’s great....and much cheaper... it’s not available here anymore, but it’s this one, and they do bigger sizes up to around 300mm https://www.amazon.co.uk/Geoptik-30B304-Flatfield-adapter-imaging/dp/B0184BQSB6

The OP actually made a point of saying how nice the presenters are, as he had met them, so maybe your rant is unfounded....🤔🤔

Wow, I guess the question was more silly than I thought.... 😮😀

Hi All, This may be a stupid question, but it’s been on my mind. When imaging I use a Baader clicklock to fix my camera to my scope, Tak FSQ85, it I have noticed that many imagers on here always seem to have there cameras screwed onto the scope, using M48 or M42 threads. very often with a filter wheel....so is this the method that you all recommend, a fixed connection, or is using a Baader clicklock acceptable for imaging or are there any disadvantages I should know about.... I don't use a filter wheel, I am OSC, and the clicklock came with the scope... thanks in advance Stuart

There looks to be some sort of strange pattern over the whole image....which again points to calibration issues...which TBH, is the best outcome, as it means the scope is good....and you can sort it.... 👍🏼

Sounds to me like it’s a Calibration artifact......👍🏼

Or it could be a calibration issue...what are the individual subs like...?

Hi, I Have this same scope, and the flattener is only for full frame sensor cameras, it was included in the package as now sensors have got much bigger, and the scope was designed when DSLR sensors were the largest used, it saved a complete re design for Takahashi.... it’s not needed with the size sensors you are using, I have used DSLR, SXVR M25c and KAF8300, sensors with mine and all good, never used the flattener... Are the optics nice and clear, have you shone a torch in the end to check the glass that’s up inside the tube about 2/3s the way, and make sure there are no marks on the glass....?

Used them loads of times, for smaller and more expensive items, I got my polemaster from there brand new with adapter for £160, I have had M42 and M48 spacers, all sorts of adapters, and always been very good.... But you need to make sure you use a dealer that takes PayPal, so you are covered, as not all of them do....it’s basically a Chinese Amazon.... 👍🏼

I had all my inside and outside lights on a wireless smart plug, (only spare timer plug I had) which monitors usage, and they are all LED as most are, and for the month they were up they cost 34p to run, so not really an issue.....unless you are extremely tight.... 😀👍🏼

What wrong with that....it’s keeping some people sane with everything that’s going on.... 👍🏼

Hmmmm, I have the same scope, and no issues like the ones you see at all....this image is cropped...but stars are good...

I thought it was 56mm, I’m sure i ha e read that in a few places... 👍🏼

With your size of sensor you do not need the flattener, the flat-field of this scope should cover that sensor no problem, they brought out the flattener for the FSQ85 for full frame sensors...so try without that first...also what back spacing do you have from flattener to sensor...it should be 56mm if I remember...?

Hmmmm, not sure on that one, it’s something Ive not done or tried myself...but I will find out... 👍🏼

Just get a raspberry PI, it will do the lot with Astroberry....cheap and very small....you can run it all from that, or just use it as a INdI driver server on the mount, and then run the Kstars software from your indoor PC, completely wireless........ 👍🏼

If it helps at all the Altair cameras and others, are made by Chinese company Touptek and just etched with Altair’s logo....whereas ASI and QHY manufacture there own...The risingcam versions are probably no different to Altair’s....so if they are a lot cheaper, I would go for it.... 👍🏼

I had it for a few years, and then last year I bit the bullet, and bought a Tak FSQ85 and a smaller FS60cb, and never looked back, but it’s great to watch these videos of how they are made.... 👍🏼😀

Very good video....but just an FYI it’s not SVBONEY.... 😀 it’s SVBONY.....sounded funny when you said “SV BONEY”...but nice one...👍🏼

Just put a small heater under Instead (as i mentioned above) and then no condensation to catch, which is much better in the long run.... 👍🏼

Heat with ventilation will always help...it’s a good combination....its how I stop it, as I mentioned above...maybe you just need a bit more heat to raise the temp a little more... 👍🏼

I have heard that domes are prone to condensation, so I agree a better ventilation system for them would be a good idea...but I don’t think that after spending thousands on a dome you should really have to then use a dehumidifier to keep it condensation free....they should be better designed with better ventilation. I just think treating the symptoms of condensation Is not the answer, it needs to be stopped in the first place. I have my EQ8 mount under a Telegizmo 365 cover, and secured at the bottom so just a little air can circulate, this along with a small 12v 20w dew strap keeps it at 7 degrees above ambient all the time, the humidity has never gone above 65% so no chance of condensation....👍🏼

Well if the air is damp, which I agree it has been, and the kit in the shed is no colder than the outside air temp, then condensation will not form, it’s just physics... So if you are getting condensation then you need to change something...it’s not just about the air being damp, air is alway damp....there is much more at play here...

Just ventilate the space, and you would not need them at all, why treat the symptoms when you could stop the cause....👍🏼