Stuart1971

They should not move around in the cell, as if they do they will play havoc when making flats...as the dust bunnies will also move around...

Well if screwed in, and glass is rattling, just tighten the locking ring a tad....assuming it is a screw in lock ring, and yes they may have to go in a certain way around the fit snuggly against the glass...

Normally in these filter cells, the retaining ring screws in, and they can be just nipped up, is this not the case,..?

Very well said, and I entirely agree...

I read many stories like this on the INdI forums, and most of the issues turn out to be one of two things, lack of power to the rpi, or a dodgy network connection... Now there are two way of running both AB and SM, which way were you running it, running Kstars on the rpi, or running Kstars from your indoor PC and using the rpi as an INdI server...??

I could have easily said Stellarmate or Astroberry, both pretty much the same and both primarily rely on open source software...

You seem to be making all this so difficult for yourself....just get out there with Stellarmate on an RPI and image with a system that works....

Yes, but like I say with modern sub pixel software it’s not as important....

With today’s sub pixel guiding software it’s not as important, but anything up to 1:4 is good.....but you could go up a bit more without issue, so your 1:5 would probably be fine...just tighten the settings down a bit in PhD2

It is a good idea, but remember the killer for Astro kit is not the cold weather, it’s condensation, and insulating will not stop this, you need a combination of it with a really good airflow in and out, if you just insulate it all and there is no air gaps, you will ruin your kit within a year or so... People use dehumidifiers which is a waste of money when all you need is airflow....

Hi, What is the light panel you have...? As I interested...

Hmmmm, well the second one looks better even thought you have much more vignetting showing...

Looks very much to me like the flats have not calibrated correctly...have you processed the image with all but the flats, to rule this out, or prove it’s correct...?

Are those handles adjustable, by that I mean can the tubular handle part be cut in length to suit...?

I think removing the battery was an old reset option for computers in days gone by...so maybe it still works..I have to say I can’t remember the last time I saw a battery on a m/board in a PC, and I was a big computer geek, have built loads of them over the years...the last few I have owned, mostly mini PC NUC and such like, I have never seen a battery...they are all done with capacitors now that charge up...so how old is it...??