Dr_Ju_ju

What's the Youtube link ??

Pure supposition, but in cold weather as components differentially shrink, especially with some metal parts that are press held together inside a plastic shell, can some times 'grow apart' e.g. sockets, switches etc.... So I'd suggest when the problem occurs, remove the control panel and gently move each of the power wires etc, and even look to see if there are any 'dry'ish' joints on the connectors.

I don't know of a 'kit' per se, but I just use Eagle to design & generate a layout, which I then print onto a clear plastic film (using an old HP ink jet printer), then using a UV box transfer onto copper sheet, then etch in a ferric chloride bath... If I want something better looking and pre-drilled etc,, and sometimes even populated (especially if I want to use SMD components), then I'll either use EasyEda (https://easyeda.com/) or JLCPCB (https://jlcpcb.com/)

I do something similar, to power my Canon's, but just a word of warning, check the buck converter under full load, as I've found some brands, supplied on a well known auction site, & even Amazon, to not be up to specification, and can fail in unpredictable ways, i.e. not supplying any current, and even overshooting voltage....

I suspect that the bolt is an M6, take the bolt all the way out and measure across the middle of the bolt. You can always get bolts of any size, and even 'trade up' using some of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125017179621?hash=item1d1b9ac5e5:g:BBoAAOSwddNhnYQC

What size is it ?, and is there enough material to tap for the next size up and allow for a larger bolt ??

I've not looked through their products, but have you had a rummage through Baader https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/

what shows up under "Device Manager / Ports" ??

In answer to the original question, which version of Win 10/11 are you using as all my "Pro for Workstations", all have the Mobile Hotspot functionality, but thesystem also detect that there are Ethernet & Wifi adaptors ....

As part of the Ascom install there is are test utilities, but there are plenty of other free apps, look for Planetarium software e.g. Skychart (https://sourceforge.net/projects/skychart/) ....

So if you enter COM5 into the EQMOD mount configuration page, and click connect, does it connect or give an error ?

What does Device Manager / Ports show under Computer Management ? (hint: right click 'My Computer' or 'This PC' select manage ) ....

I'm not sure if this is right, but if you just enter "0.00" and then your email address, you will be sent an email with a link to the files.....

I take it this will be for intermittent use ? but even so the drain on the battery of the combined heating element and fan motor can be quite high.... Is it just to quickly clean up condensation ? do you acclimatise the gear before use ?

I feel your pain, as I have done similar things.... Personally, I would first remove the grub screw by using a small drill bit, and drilling right through the screw, which usually removes the stuck screw. Then using an M3 tap, gently, run the tap through the hole, and with luck, the thread will be restored to a 'working state', but you will probably need to buy a longer grub screw (M3). Failing that, when the stuck grub screw is removed, then drill and tap, for an M4 grub screw. Good luck !!

As long as you don't put too much weight on it (limited), and that it comes with the better tripod, then for small payloads its ok... but, keep a lookout for a used EQ5 mount, which is much more capable...

I don't use an encoder, but have look at MyFocerPro2 (https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/) It should easily do what you want, but may need a slight re-config to use the encoder...

Can you not fit the OAG before the filter, so that once set / aligned with the main scope, it won't matter then what filter is being used....

I have to agree with James, It's not difficult to repair what you have, and even source a right-angle connector, to ensure it doesn't conflict with anything else.....

I've made a number of MyFocusPro's and designed/printed various brackets for the stepper motors etc., so have a look on Thingiverse e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3593910

Have look out for a DSLR dummy battery, for your camera make & model e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HangTon-LP-E8-Battery-Adapter-Camera/dp/B094QPLQC4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dslr%2Bdummy%2Bbattery&qid=1637779256&sr=8-3&th=1

if its purely resistive, with no other component e.g. a diode, then no, you should be able to connecting either way....

Something that big, and depending how many parts it 'breaks' into for printing, I'd personally printing in ABS for the stability & resilience. Granted the stuff needs special handling, especially with the higher temperatures needed, and the sometimes reported odour given off, but I've not noticed any & I'm currently printing the parts for a Voron 2.4 upgrade to my core-xy printer....

I've not tried it recently, but it may be possible running virtual hosts under Docker e.g. https://www.hyggeit.dk/2014/02/virtual-servers-on-raspberry-pi-with.html

Going back to the 1970's, 80's & 90's, when I used to work for a broadcasting organisation, designing / building studios etc., on buying monitors, especially grade 1's, almost all testing was done with test card F (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_BBC_test_cards). Granted at the time, the screens were all thermionic tube based, and at a much lower resolution etc., but the later test cards W / X still work well....