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NGC 1502

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NGC 1502 last won the day on October 25 2013

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About NGC 1502

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    Essex U.K.

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  1. I don’t think you’re being paranoid just legitimately sensible. There’s no guarantees but some things you could do- I’m one of 4 keyholders who arrange visits to my club’s dark site. We are able to lock a gate on the single track access road. If you could do that it helps prevent unwanted vehicles turning up. We don’t go there on our own, always with an observing friend (or friends). Obviously have a charged phone, even if that won’t bring immediate assistance. If unwanted folks do pass by if you keep quiet they may not be aware of your presence in the darkness. My scopes a
  2. You mention the mount works fine but has cosmetic issues. FWIW, here’s what I would do- If it’s working ok I wouldn’t strip it down. I’d remove the peeling chrome as best I could, rub down with fine emery paper, treat with Kurust or similar, repaint with silver paint. Done carefully it should look fine. Of course the bent bits will need straightening, a good solid vice with padded jaws and a bit of grunt should sort it. Some steel tubing would give more leverage. As for the tripod, if the legs are rubbish I’d make new wooden ones fitted to the original tripod head. I’m guessing the t
  3. Great you had success . Further pic below of the collimateable cell on my very early version.
  4. Great classic scope On my Vixen 80m the dew shield simply pulls off the lens cell. However mine is one of the very early versions. The pics below show the earlier label and the collimatable lens cell. Having pulled off the dew shield the lens cell unscrews as a unit from the tube, this does not disturb the 2 lens elements. Be careful when screwing the cell on, the threads are very fine. You’ll find that Delta Cygni is a tough call with this scope, but very steady conditions with Delta Cygni high overhead can bring success. Don’t be afraid to ramp up the magnification ! If you need
  5. Plus 1 for a PROPER shed, my dad’s shed looked VERY similar
  6. Whilst not as popular as it once was DIY is still alive and well for astronomy kit. I’ve built and rebuilt several Dob tube assemblies and mounts. It’s great fun and makes you think to get it right. Primary mirror cells are simple in sizes up to about 10” aperture, larger sizes are generally more work as a multi point mirror support may be required. The secondary holder is actually more difficult because it has to allow adjustment in many directions, closer or further from the primary and radially to centre the secondary under the focuser plus tip in any direction. However the toughest
  7. I find seated observing suits me fine, far less tiring for long sessions, I personally feel that more can be seen with a steadier head. However some find that seated observing doesn’t work for them. If you could say what type of telescope you use that’s relevant and affects what type of seat is good. For my Dobsonian scopes I use an adjustable height drummers stool. I have several Dobs and having adjusted the stool height for that scope then no further adjustment is needed for that session. For my refractor I need a different seat height according to whether I’m observing at a hig
  8. Well done and great to see DIY telescope making is alive and giving good results. Regarding a mirror recoat, depending on how bad it currently is you may find it gives excellent views as it is. Of course I do get the desire to make it the best you can. An 8” Dob can be a lifetime scope, please let us know further when you can. Cheers from another ATM (amateur telescope maker) in Essex. I’m currently rebuilding a 6” Dob I first made in 1994. I’ve never made a mirror, the 6” mirror & secondary was made by David Hinds. It splits very difficult double stars because David was a m
  9. Lots of good advice already posted. I’d like to agree with some of the comments regarding the quality of the view of M13 through various apertures. Last Saturday night I was at one of my local clubs dark sites with my 10” Dob. Once full astronomical darkness arrived M13 looked far better than than those comparison views. At 200x the view was superb, black background sky with a blizzard of stars, chains of stars radiating from the edge of the main cluster...... Ed.
  10. For general purpose astronomy / birding and lightweight I’d go for 8x40s myself. As to what model, as a general rule you get what you pay for. If either yourself or your wife will need to use specs when using the binoculars then you’ll need generous eye relief. Even if no specs will be needed many folk prefer good eye relief. Ideally it’s better if you can try the bins before purchase. So visiting a dealer with good stocks who will allow you to try various models is good. If purchasing from a distance check out reviews and the dealers return policy, just in case you choose wrongly.
  11. Excellent report On Saturday night 3 members of Castle Point AC made it out to one of our dark sites on the Essex coast. We also easily spotted Mercury with unaided eye, our scopes revealed a disc but poor seeing low down prevented a phase estimate. I used my 10” Dob and started deep sky with Hercules 3 globulars M13 & 92 and neglected NGC 6229. Whilst observing M13 I made the 1/2 degree hop to galaxy NGC 6207. Back to the solar system but sadly drew a blank with C2020 R4 Atlas. Lots else followed and the time just flew.....finished of with the Veil, my Ultrablock filter drama
  12. AlexK, looking at your equipment list I see you have an Astroscan. I have one as well, bought from Adrian Ashford who used to work for Sky & Telescope magazine. When he moved back to the UK he brought his Astroscan then sold it to me. It had its collimation tweaked by Gary Seronic, the front optical window with attached secondary mirror can be shimmed. Enjoy your Astroscan under your Californian skies
  13. A dim red torch (flashlight) is best. Mine is adjustable in brightness. Once your eyes are dark adapted then a very dim red light is adequate. Of course if you’re planning a session during the day then no artificial light is needed. Cheers from across the pond from Ed in the UK.
  14. My Philips planisphere lives in the lid of my eyepiece box. It’s a very valuable tool for a basic idea of what’s currently in the sky but is not intended as comprehensive star chart. It’s great for planning a session under the stars, it shows which constellations are well placed and then good star chart will show what objects are in each constellation. As others have said a planisphere requires no batteries, zero boot up time, and of course doesn’t ruin your dark adaptation. Ed.
  15. Sorry to hear your misfortune. It looks like the scope is Newtonian? Are the mirrors undamaged ? It’s hard to tell from your pics. If they’re ok perhaps a DIY fix may be possible. The tube dent could be knocked out, the mirror cell straightened as best you can and reinforced with a support patch or welded as already suggested. The finished result doesn’t have to look good, just hold the optical components in the correct position relative to each other. If the mirrors are damaged then perhaps it’s a write off, possibly some parts could be salvaged, like the focuser and
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