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NGC 1502

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NGC 1502 last won the day on October 25 2013

NGC 1502 had the most liked content!

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About NGC 1502

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  1. Indeed, SGL is probably the top UK based astronomy forum, and it’s free this is a great resource and ideal for those who would otherwise find being a member of a local club difficult. In my area there’s quite a few who cannot get along to my club, by the time they are home from work, eaten etc they quite simply do not have the time to come. Shift work and family commitments are common. I used to belong to the Society for Popular Astronomy. Although they cater for beginners some of their members do advanced stuff so it’s a great organisation, always friendly and welcoming. But the forum is underused as mentioned. Cloudy Nights is great, but occasionally some of the posts can at times get very argumentative indeed Ed.
  2. Thanks for the reminder - a whole hour of astronomy Ed.
  3. Hi Tim. If it were myself I’d just do the best I could with securing the secondary as close as you can to the central position, then carefully star collimating at 150-200x with the star central in field of view. As the SCT primary is factory set this makes collimation simpler for users. One thing not mentioned so far is cooldown, you may already be aware but worth a mention. Ed.
  4. Hi Tim, welcome to SGL If it were me I’d measure carefully from the edge of the secondary holder to the edge of the corrector plate on opposing sides. If the measurements are close I’d be happy with that. A rigid rule would be better than a flexible tape measure. Take care not to contact the optical surface of the corrector plate. Have you noticed any issues that lead you to suspect a problem with secondary position ? Ed.
  5. +1 for the previously mentioned Binocular Sky monthly newsletter. Take a look in the Observing Section - binoculars. Welcome to SGL Ed.
  6. Yes, I’ve noted a Radian problem in daytime too, but they were designed for nighttime astronomy where I don’t have any issues. I think that in daytime when the eye’s pupil is tiny, it can lead to blackouts. Fully agreed the Pentax XLs and later XWs were / are great eyepieces. As always, different folk can quite genuinely find what suits them doesn’t work for someone else. It’s been a long journey for me to finally arrive at an eyepiece set I’m happy with - Panoptic 27mm, Radians 14/8/5mm. Ed.
  7. Indeed, the Radian colour cast issue is something I could never detect myself. The other issue often raised with Radians was blackouts. But all the long eye relief eyepieces I’ve ever tried could be made to blackout if my eye was too close to the eyelens. If the Radian eyeguard is correctly deployed, zero problem, just a sharp comfortable view...... Ed.
  8. Ok, but no problem around here ( Essex ) and ordinary steel screws will be ok, or try a boat supplier for stainless. Cheers, Ed.
  9. An alternative to ebay is your local DIY store, I know you’ve tried that but almost all such shops should have something suitable. Try B&Q or Wilco. If the length of the screw is too long, easy to shorten it with a vice + hacksaw and a file to clean up the cut end so the thread will still accept a nut Ed.
  10. Hi Alan, emailed you with a possible solution....... Ed.
  11. Good stuff Brian As you are on Canvey Island you would be more than welcome at your local club - Castle Point Astronomy Club - most Wednesdays at 8.00pm. Free tea / coffee, and if you’re quick, biscuits too Your first meeting is free and If you join, we have two members only dark sites...... Ed.
  12. Difficult to say, so many variables :- sky transparancy, level of light pollution, is the moon up, scope cooling and collimation plus optical quality, waiting for culmination of Neptune, experience of observer. I’ve not observed Triton myself with my 10” Dob. There’s all sorts of formulas to try to give a theoretical answer, but it’s a best guess opinion..... Ed.
  13. Hi and welcome to SGL, lots of folk here happy to help. I’ve not watched the video. However, the scope needs to be balanced in both directions. As you know, the tube assembly can be slid within the tube rings to balance it In declination. And in right ascension you can balance it by sliding the counterweights on the shaft. Balancing is achieved with the lock screws on each axis released. The balance doesn’t have to be absolutely precise, just get it as close as you can. Balance each axis separately. For polar alignment, many tutorials show how to achieve that to a precision necessary for astrophotography. That precision is not required for basic observations. Just point the polar axis north as best you can and you will be ok. One thing to mention is the red dot finder on your scope. At my local club over the last few years two different visitors have brought along the same scope you have for advice, struggling to use the finder. So did we when trying to help. I’m sorry to say this, but that finder is not fit for purpose, whoever designed it didn’t understand what’s needed. I can see that finder in your second photo. I do realise you probably don’t want more expense, but if you want to use your scope with the least frustration, then a regular design red dot finder, available from companies like our sponsors First Light Optics, would be very well worth getting. Hoping that helps, Ed.
  14. If you already have a TV Everbrite diagonal you have one of the finest diagonals possible. Just make sure that when the eyepiece is inserted into the diagonal the nosepiece does not contact the mirror, especially if you add the Baader barlow lens. TV eyepieces would not contact the mirror, all TV products are manufactured to avoid problems when used together, but TV could not be expected to take account of another manufacturers product specifications. Ed.
  15. Sounds as if you like it........a lot I’m sure I could too, your high quality but no frills kit is just what suits me. Enjoy.......Ed.
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