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NGC 1502

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NGC 1502 last won the day on October 25 2013

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About NGC 1502

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    Essex U.K.
  1. Thanks all. Earlier in the evening the split was not seen, had to wait until the Hercules keystone was almost overhead, then the 8” revealed the secondary occasionally and then for long moments.......two pinpoints imbedded in the diffraction rings. I also appreciated the two speed focuser making exact focus easier to achieve. Never had a two speed before, and used to wonder if it was necessary. Mind you the focuser needed several previous tries to adjust it to make it work ok, at first it was way too tight, then it slipped, but eventually got a reasonable compromise. I just love the Cambridge double star atlas ( second edition ) full of targets to entertain at all seasons. Ed.
  2. Last night was clear in SE Essex, but I nearly didn’t go out, not long past full moon and the lingering twilight. However I’m so glad I did because it superb for double stars. The highlight for me was Zeta Herculis ( Struve 2084 ) the SW star in the keystone. I had two scopes in use, my OO 10” Dob designated 1/4 wave, and a new to me OO 8” VX8L, designated 1/10 wave. I’ve had many unsuccessful tries at splitting Zeta with the 10” and last night was no exception. Last night the seeing was so good that I tried magnifications that are usually pointless. With the 8” at 300x and then 400x I got a lovely clear pin point split. Bit of a challenge hand tracking at those mags with the 50 degree apparent field zoom, but definitely worth it I wont go into what 1/4 wave and 1/10 wave actually mean, different interpretations about that.......... Both scopes fully cooled and collimated, chuffed with the 8” previously owned by a local club member sadly no longer with us. Ed.
  3. Hello Steve. This may not be relevant, however a few years ago I read that some of the Lunt blocking filters had suffered a coating failure. I don’t recall it was a safety issue, more of concern about the quality of the view/image. I cannot remember where I saw that, but I’m certain I did. I’m wondering if contacting Lunt with an enquiry may help ? It’s possible that coating failure could lead to changes to the coating process. Please disregard this if it’s irrelevant. Ed. EDIT - Please accept my apologies, only just realised the coating failure has already been mentioned.
  4. The observatory column is usually concreted deep into a large volume of concrete. If you did that with a tripod you’d have either 3 large concrete blocks or one enormous block. Tripod legs tend to get in the way, a column much less so, also depending on how long the optical tube is, at some positions the lower end of the tube contacts the legs necessitating the “meridian flip” that interrupts imaging or visual. As already mentioned, the column can be inexpensively done. The column is a tried and tested solution. Ed.
  5. Hi Steve. My B400 scopeside filter shows white with LED. S/N 2010 212. HTH, Ed.
  6. Hi again Paul. You sound a bit downhearted, but your ED 120 will give lovely pinpoint stars compared with most reflecting telescopes. Although more aperture gives greater resolution in theory, I love how much smaller refractors show double and multiple stars and open clusters. Most reflectors show blobby stars in comparison, unless it’s a specialised long focal ratio / tiny central obstruction instrument like a 6” F12 or an off axis Herschillian with no secondary mirror. These long scopes are a pain to adequately mount of course. Ed.
  7. Globular clusters respond well to aperture and magnification. Your ED 120 will give lovely pinpoint stars, but something like an 8/10/12” reflector will go deeper and show a blizzard of stars, not just a fuzzball. I’m not a fan of high magnification for the sake of it, but globulars often can look spectacular at 200x and above, especially with a larger scope and with good conditions, transparent sky and the object at as high an elevation as possible. HTH, Ed.
  8. Hello Rob. A 6” reflector should very easily split the double-double into its 4 components at 125x or higher. It sounds like you’ve been into astronomy for a long time having owned the 8” OO and also know how to collimate. But how high an elevation was Lyra when you viewed it ? In May it’s rising in the NE as it gets dark. Poor seeing will be worse if your target is not high up. Some will say a 6” doesn’t need much cooldown, but if it’s just come from a warm house it will take while for that to happen. If it were me, I’d recheck collimation, make sure the scope is fully cooled then try again when Lyra is higher. If that doesn’t work, a consolation prize is the “double-double’s double”, Struve 2474, also in Lyra, easily split into 4 components at much lower magnification. Good luck with your 6” scope, very capable and low hassle. Ed.
  9. Hi and welcome ? Please don’t follow my mistake - My first eyepieces were very basic 0.96” fitting. Upgraded to basic 1.25” fitting. Upgraded to long eye relief. Joined my local astronomy club in 2002, members had wide field eyepieces, I upgraded to cheap widefield, ok ish, but fuzzy away from centre field. Upgraded to more expensive widefield......... Each upgrade involved cash of course. It would have been far cheaper in the long run to bite the bullet and get top eyepieces much earlier, and had the benefits years ago. Not saying you must get TeleVue, less expensive stuff that’s very good is available. And you can be satisfied with a few top eyepieces.......I have too many but I’m not alone in that.....? Ed.
  10. Hello to a member in NZ ? If it were me, I’d try adding substitute weights ( food tins, bags of sugar ) and see if it affected the azimuth movement. If the movement was good, I’d be ok with adding a battery of similar weight. You may find that adding significant weight unevenly on one side only may not be ok, but the same weight distributed evenly is better. Not an exact science of course. As to lubricating the bearings, with regular Teflon pads there are differing opinions on that. Some use car polish on the mating surface. Grease is a bad idea, as it collects dust and grit quickly. But some Dobs like yours have a ‘lazy Susan’ roller bearing, don’t know what’s best with those, although grease is also probably a bad idea. Ed.
  11. Thanks and glad you enjoyed it ? The day went smoothly for visitors, but behind the scenes those organising the talks had to go to plan B. But then plan B unraveled...........in the end a great line up of very competent speakers entertained us greatly. Ed.
  12. So did I. I’ve heard a rumour that digital photography may be coming. But there’s no way that will be successful.......? My non-metered Asahi Pentax and Weston lightmeter are going strong........? Ed.
  13. I like this idea, gentle air flow through the tube assembly can prevent dew formation on the optical surfaces or at least slow it down. It’s a solution I’ve adopted for my own scopes. Ed.
  14. If you are not happy with new kit the sooner you contact the supplier the better. Leaving it until later weakens your case. Possibly there might be a simple DIY fix, or that gap could be sealed with silicon to keep out moisture and dirt, but once you’ve done that it could easily void your guarantee as you’ve mentioned. Hope you sort it to your satisfaction. Ed.
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