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NGC 1502

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NGC 1502 last won the day on October 25 2013

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About NGC 1502

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    Brown Dwarf

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    Essex U.K.
  1. NGC 1502

    Star Diagonals.

    The rotated view is normal. This caused confusion recently at my club with a new member who was using a 90mm refractor on loan. We explained to him that if he rotated the diagonal to bring the eyepiece to a convenient angle, then the view will rotate accordingly. Gets confusing when starhopping, but nudge the scope towards Polaris, new stars will enter the field of view on the north side, and of course south is on the other side. If the scope has a drive, turn it off, new stars will enter the field of view on the east side, west is on opposite side. Ed.
  2. Hope you don’t mind me saying, but your Astroscan will only be obsolete if you stop using it................ If you mean that the secondary mirror has come adrift, it should be an easy repair to silicon it back in place. The front optical window is held in place by a large circlip, then the glass with secondary mount can be lifted away. HTH, Ed.
  3. Thanks for that, perhaps I should have looked further ............Ed.
  4. Depends on what is meant by “wood” . If it’s MDF, I personally think that’s not suitable. A friend had a 14” Beacon Hill Dob with an MDF mount, it warped and gave very poor movements, even though it was otherwise a great scope. If it’s exterior good quality ply and is well made and sealed, no problem. My local club’s 15 year old 16 “ Dob with a DIY plywood mount still works fine. Ed.
  5. NGC 1502

    Seeking Mirror ID

    I think you’ll find that the difference between a spherical or a parabolic mirror would be too tiny to measure that way. OO mirrors were (are) good, so I’d be very surprised indeed if your mirror is not parabolic, and at least accurate enough for all practical purposes. Ed
  6. NGC 1502

    Seeking Mirror ID

    You have good info already. I’d like to add - The brass nuts on the secondary spider are the same as my 11 year old 10” OO Dob, which also has a 3 point primary cell. Some of the older OO mechanical parts were definitely a bit crude, but generally the mirrors were good. Best of luck with the build, should be a nice scope to own. Ed.
  7. Lots of good advice already given. I’d like to add : Best not to check mirrors by shining a light down the tube at night, most look horrid like that. Check in normal daylight. If you decide to clean, leave it for a few days, then think - is this really necessary? If you go ahead, get everything you need ready, choose a time when you won’t be disturbed, don’t rush, don’t fuss over every tiny spot or streak. Don’t start late in the afternoon when it looks like it’s going to be clear........ HTH, Ed.
  8. NGC 1502

    Webb Society Meeting 2018

    Well I’m glad I wasn’t the only one struggling with the final talk, not the speaker’s fault of course..... But a great day out, congratulations and well done to all that were responsible for the arrangements. Ed.
  9. NGC 1502

    Veil Nebula with Bino’s ?? Doable ??

    As above, given good dark transparent skies, my 10x50s can reveal the brighter (less dim) eastern Veil. Under similar conditions, my 70mm Pronto at 18x does a good job too. To see structure, rather than a hazy streak, needs as much aperture as poss, plus a nebula filter if you have one. When I started in astronomy, late 70s, seeing the Veil was regarded as very challenging, but time has proved that it’s not so hard, given good conditions. Ed.
  10. NGC 1502

    Seek and Magnify

    Good advice mostly, but even so-called parfocal EPs can need a tweek for the sharpest view. For instance, my 10mm TV Radian needs more than a tweek when changing from other TV parfocal Radians. Others are spot on parfocal. Ed. My predictive spell checker needs throttling........I SAID TWEEK NOT TWEET.........OK, GOT THAT ? rant over.....
  11. NGC 1502

    Seek and Magnify

    Most of the time with my 10” Dob I starhop at 44x and a 1.5 degree field of view. With objects like the double cluster, Veil nebula, M81/82 etc, that’s where I mostly stay. Maybe add my Ultrablock filter, if appropriate. For naked eye planets or double stars, I can start much higher, 92x, just centre the Telrad on it. Occasionally I may go higher on something like M82 to tease out the diagonal dark lane in that galaxy. Globular clusters or tiny planetary nebs take high power well. For deep sky, quite often I then may go in larger steps, 170x, 250x. For planets I find smaller steps more appropriate. Jupiter often looks sharper at 133x than 170x, if the seeing is not great. HTH, Ed.
  12. NGC 1502

    The Synta Wonky, Plastic Objective-Cell Fix

    Hijacking your thread a bit here...... Great stuff, I like a bit of tinkering and fixing things myself. I’m definitely no equipment snob, but some of these entry level refractors do have a build “quality” that makes me cringe.......At the moment I have someone elses Celestron Inspire AZ 100. Metal is used very sparingly indeed. The all plastic lens cell is fixed to the tube with wood screws.........the sharp ends can be seen when looking through the glass. But at least it isn’t stopped down, a full 100mm is in use. I’m in the process of doing a few fixes for him, the main one being adapting it with slow motion controls. Last night I tried it on Jupiter, comparing it with my 35 year old Vixen 80mm F11.4 achromat. I used my own eyepieces. At modest powers 30 to 60x, it was hard to tell much difference between them. But no surprises, at 100x plus, the old Vixen did much better. I could perhaps live with the Celestron’s objective, if the focuser wasn’t so wobbly, and the mount didn’t shake around so much, and it wasn’t so desperately hard to track objects, hence the request from the owner for slow motions. The most “wonderfull feature” is the lens cap has a smartphone holder that fits over the eyepiece.... I suppose for around £200 including 2 eyepieces, a red dot finder etc then you get what you pay for. I’m tempted to say I’d rather have binoculars, but they wouldn’t show Jupiters main cloud belts and so clearly reveal the Galilean moons, Saturn’s ring system, loads of lunar features etc etc....so perhaps it’s worth having. But I’d far sooner spend £200 on the classifieds on here or ABS..... Again, apologies for the hijack. Ed.
  13. NGC 1502

    So I got the MAK

    Folks on here are happy to help, but what is the problem you’re trying to sort ? Sounds like you are trying to do imaging, so is the issue that parts won’t fit together, or maybe you cannot get the camera to focus. Have you tried to view visually with an eyepiece in the diagonal ? Some pics would really help, together with some more explanation if poss. Hope you sort it, Ed.
  14. Hi Alan. A few years ago, I had a full aperture Baader filter for a 6” f4 that I had then (now owned by another CPAC member). Aperture = resolution so solar granulation and sunspots could be better seen at times, but I often had less than great views because on a sunny day there can be lots of atmospheric turbulence to degrade what I could see, and a larger aperture can be more affected by poor seeing than a smaller scope. Your F5 would be more suitable than the F4 I had. A 6” F4 is more of a small “ light bucket “ and even more so is the 6” F3.8 I now own, rides on the same Dob mount as my 6” F6. I think I must have as many scopes as clear nights each year And my EP collection is growing too Ed.
  15. Wow, 20mm exit pupil, now where’s my friendly neighbourhood owl but thanks for NV info to make use of that..... Ed.

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