Dr_Ju_ju

If there is that gap around the heater, such that the heater only connects to the camera body, as you say, by your T2 ring, all should be ok, but my camera (1600) screws directly to the filter wheel body, so anything, even a hair etc, has the potential for a lopsided fit.

you could try scraping off the insulation across the break & then selotape a small piece of baking tinfoil across the break, & if you're luck it may not introduce any tilt, especially if you 'balance' out the with additional tape spaced around the heater....

Yes, it probably is fixable (scrape off the insulation and lightly solder a fine wire across the break) but that would produce a bump, and so introduce a till, so as suggested, it would be easier/better to just buy a new one.

Ii could probably be done with a good, well configured and maintained 'stock' printer, but for the level of accuracy you are looking for, I'd use an SLA printer e.g. https://www.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-sl1s-speed/

To be honest, I'd crimp a new one on, if you know of a local network engineer, ask if they'd be so kind.... if you were closer, I'd offer to do it, but Haverfordwest is a tad for from Pontypridd, the next time I'm down to visit my mum...

They are all on Thingiverse e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3085586/files and as this one also has an OPENSCAD file, you can design your own....

I use the same template/method, but I use other printed part(s), that allow the 2 halves to be securely held, then use a very thin, flexible film, super-glued, across the joint, and with the glue seeping into the joint to hold to two edges together...

Personally, for "finished items", I'd use either ABS or, preferably PETG, both Prusa Prusament filaments....

I've also had no issues with the hub on my 1600m also controlling 120m(guider) & filter wheel....

There will always be speed penalties with Pi's as their built-in micro_sd storage, is slower than ssd, emmc devices as used in RockPro64's etc, (which is what I use)

What "File Services" are enabled on the NAS e.g. SMB NFS ?? With either enabled, you should then be able to save all captured images directly to the NAS

Have you gone through PHD's calibration routine ??

If you trying to drive multiple mounts with the one PC, make sure that multiple instances, of eqmod\phd2, aren't trying to control the same mount....

.... according to their published specs., they should be ok, but as we've been experiencing some weird temperature extremes, I'd check them out, especially the sheathing Nominal current rating: 110A No./size of conductors: 206/0.30mm Conductor cross section: 16mm² Maximum overall cable diameter: 8.3mm Resistance per m at 20°C: 0.00126 Ω Conductor material: Plain copper Insulation material: PVC Working temperature range: -30°C to +70°C Chemical resistance: Petrol, lubricating oils and acids Part Number: PVC16R.100

How long is this cable run, and what type of cable are you using ?? Personally, and what I use for star camps etc., are cables rated for power and temperature extremes e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322123764915?hash=item4b001294b3 they are not cheap, but peace of mind.... btw, I also use Neutrik NL2FX Speakon Connectors, which are self locking/wiping on connect.....

There is no transformer thermal fuse, according to a circuit diagram I've dug up https://pa0fri.home.xs4all.nl/Diversen/EP925/ep925eng.htm the site even offers some mods for better performance/safety...

That looks like an overspill of the epoxy varnish used in the manufacture of the transformer, and nothing to be worried about....

I have exactly the same power supply from Maplin, which is now a good many years old, and I use it for a 'Lab' workshop supply, but I've never had a shut-down.... As these supplies are now old, initially I would give it a good clean out, especially if there is an internal build up of dust that could act as an insulator, on the power transistors, that not only may erroneously 'fool' the temperature trip, but also act as 'short' circuit across the terminals/current-voltage sensors. But also being old, and I take it, lots of 'wear', then components do sometimes fail with age, so you may need to replace some parts...

I build my own focusers, based on Robert Brown's design i.e. https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/ and although I've not looked at it, but he's also designed a rotator https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduino-myrotator/

The same idea could still work, it's just that the mounting for the rotator stepper motor, instead of being stationary, could be mounted to a Linear Rail system, where the bearing would be fixed and the stepper motor mounted to the rail.... This method is commonly used for 3D printer e.g. Voron2 & CNC machines etc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283590463865

If there are some mounting holes at the top of the handle ?? Then a piece of 3/4mm aluminium bar could be screwed to it, with a stepper motor mounted at the end, above the rotating section, which if its' possible ? a belt could achieve enough grip to rotate the equipment.... It may even be possible to combine the mounting with an another stepper motor mounting for the focuser..

for SW mounts it's never 115200, just 9600....

1st off change the BAUD rate to 9600 then try & connect

To steady mine up a bit, I filled each of the 'tube' sections with concrete (using small gravel), which significantly increased its weight, & made it much more stable....

That what I used for my home-made solution, but as I pointed out, apart from being heavy to handle, over time the material has a tendency to 'crack', which while still prohibits a lot of water to get through, some seepage still gets through...