Dr_Ju_ju

While you're in device manager, make sure the USB Serial Port (COM_x) is using the correct driver i.e. right-clicking & selecting Properties / Driver i.e. (note for me this is my setup as I make my own adaptors and so use standard FTDI drivers.)

so have you installed the driver for your LynxAstro cable ??

in APT, in the GEAR tab, if you "shift click" the connect button, you should be prompted with the setup window for "EQMod Ascom Setup" i.e. Clicking on Properties should bring up something like : make sure the right port is selected....

In Device Manager what port does the EQDir cable think it is ? and is this the same port that EQMod Ascom Setup is set to use ?

There is usually no feedback between the mount motor and the driving electronics. So while the mount may be commanded to move, if there is any stiction/binding etc., then the drive electronic command system, would assume that its command had been enacted, and update counts etc. If a 'home' command is then issued, then yes, post the command completion, the mount would not actually be at the home position.

With only two poles, you have to rely on the 'key' to ensure that the polarity is correct, so you could go to 3/4 pole connectors which would provide greater confidence on the polarity, and may even be useful for additional voltages/signals etc...

what shows up in device manager under Ports e.g. My mount is driven through Com4

I don't use wifi, and I'm not sure what OS Stellarmate is based on, but have you considered installing a version of Ubuntu Mate (https://ubuntu-mate.org/download/) & manually installing KStars/Ekos/Indi etc. You may well find that a standard version of Ubuntu, will be able to support your adaptor or have drivers available.

You will also find that they are usually numbered, with number 1 at the top of your diagrams. so just ensure you match the numbers....

Strip off as much as possible, leaving just the upper parts, then screw out both bolts, so that in theory there is no impedance to movement, you should then be able to manually move the head "up & down"... If not then I would suspect that the bolt, hidden under the round black plastic covers, needs to be slightly loosened...

you are unscrewing one, as you screw the other in ?? as they work in opposition.....

It may well be fancy, but the multi-star guiding is wonderful, especially with patchy cloud cover ....

I've not had any issues running it with SGPro 3.2.0.660, for many months, on a number of systems ...

The 'Spec' states: New Geniune FTDI Chip. Support all windows , andorid , Mac OS, Vista And there are user reviews, with some being very negative, it appears that it's a hit & miss product... Personally, and if you are any good with a soldering iron / crimper, then getting something like this adaptor (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174388761395?hash=item289a615333:g:0aEAAOSwv-NWYE0M) and re-wiring to a BNC lead, will give you a working lead, I've made all my own this way...

If it's a true FTDI chipset, then there should be no issues....

These will probably be way over the top, but have a look here http://www.offroad-engineering.com/sway-bars.html it may give you an idea of something that can be cobbled together,,,,,

Could you produce some sort of diagram, of what you require, as it may need multiple parts to cater for all eventualities. As a first step, it may well be possible to 3D print something, before a metal is created...

But if you are using computer control, then the alignment routines in software like Sharpcap, are far better, imho....

Personally, I wouldn't use the handset, but just plug the AstroEQ cable(https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq5-pro-heq5-syntrek-pro-az-eq5-gt-az-eq6-gt-and-eq8-mounts.html), or whatever brand you are using, directly into the port, on the mount instead of the handset..... then put the handset away in a draw & forget about it !!

Correct, you are seeing the "wood for the trees".... yes you are connecting using USB ports, but your OS/drivers/et al interpret them as COM ports or any other type of port, as required.... So, even though you are plugging into a USB port, in device manager (Windows), they will show up as "Ports (COM & LPT)" .... (LPT=Line Printer) and I bet you may never have seen one of those !!

I wouldn't have thought that the higher voltage would cause any damage... but If the LED doesn't light up, and you've measured the voltage, at the plug feeding the camera, then personally, I'd be tempted to open the camera up to check that there's nothing obviously amiss with the internal connections etc....

what about the power/network inlet(s) ?, If water is dripping down the side/underneath, then a daytime temperatures would make the air inside to expand, forcing air out, then on cooling would draw air back in, bringing with it the moisture, which would be heated by the internal electronics etc. which then condenses on the inside of the cooler dome....

If you assembled the system inside, where I would think, there wouldn't be much moisture in the air ?? how did the water get into the dome ? so I'd also check the sealing between the dome & the box... If you are able, I'd be tempted to 3D print a ring to go around the dome base, making a more secure seal....

Have you tried fitting a fan inside the enclosure, to circulate air around the dome, also some small desiccant sachets in side the dome ?

On mine, they are M3 x 10mm, but with a focuser bracket fitted, I increased them to 15 mm