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After a 20 year long hiatus - my last astrophoto was captured with a film camera in 1997 - at the beginning of 2020 I decided it was time to start again. So, January 25th 2020 I brought home my used Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro and I immediately started taking photos. Obviously, my first target was M42 in Orion. This was my first digital astrophotography. 31 subframes, 30s each, taken at ISO800 with my unmodified Nikon D90, Nikkor 70-300mm at 300mm f/6.3 - January 28th, 2020, home front yard, Bortle 5/6 sky, no guiding, no filters. A grand total of 15.5 minutes... A couple of week
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Asiair pro power outlets for DSLR
sulaco posted a topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Hi, Thinking of getting the Asiair pro whenever they come back into stock but wondered about the voltage output for dslr, it states that it’s12v but would that not need to be stepped down to 7.5v for dslr. im wondering if the Pegasus power box micro with Stellarmate might be a better option as the dedicated power box is controllable. I tried Ekos a couple of years back and had nothing but problems but tried again last night and was amazed at how slick it was, best guiding and first time plate-solvingwas effortless. I have the original zwo 120mm so reluctant to get a new one unles -
Hello all. I’ve tried a few times in the last month to image Mars but have had very little success. Although a decent size, Mars is very blurry and wobbly. I am fairly new to the hobby, but I would say it appears to be poor seeing conditions. I am using a Celestron 6SE and Canon 600D. I have tried 2x and 3x Barlow. I focus using a bahtinov mask (on stars). I used movie crop mode on various ISOs and exposures, stacking at least 3000 frames (keeping the best 1%, 2%, 5%, etc). Is Mars too far away now? Or am I underestimating how rarely you get a night of good seeing? How do you find o
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I've just had a Canon EOS 250d modified by Juan, IR filter off and shim to restore focal plane. He previously did the same for a 100d which got me going in the hobby. Juan is willing and able to take on successive generations of camera. I prefer to rely on Juan's experience for this task, despite me being an optics specialist professionally. The cost of the camera and Juan's conversion service together are a bargain and I trust him with a new camera. I like to use this type of imager over the specialist cameras because they are the result of Canon's massive R&D capability and-
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Hi! Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong section (this is my first post on any kind of forum!) and I'm aware its a question thats probably been asked thousands of times. Please let me know if I should post elsewhere or anything... So I've made some progress with astrophotography but as much as I try I get so confused with lenses and the specifics so thought I'd ask people who understand them more. My setup so far is a Canon EOS 550d, with a 70-300mm f4-5.6 lens all on a Star Adventurer pro tracker (recently upgraded from an Omegon LX3 mini track). The camera and lens were both s
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I would like to share my fourth image. With my "lucky week" of imaging, along with M33, I managed to finish also this project. This is my longest integration to date. These are IC 405 and IC 410, also known as the Flaming Star Nebula and the Tadpole Nebula, respectively, taken over 7 nights, under my Bortle 5/6 home sky. Total integration time: 18h 29m 00s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300 astromodified Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x Guid- 12 replies
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I would like to share my third image. I finally had a "lucky week", since my last session, December 18th. I managed 5 clear nights out of the past 6 (has to be a record, at least for me and my area) and I was able to finish a couple of projects I had started long ago and start a few new ones. This is M33, also known as the Triangulum Galaxy, taken over 10 nights, under my Bortle 5/6 home sky. Total integration time: 10h 14m 00s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300
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Hello, does anyone know if my imaging train looks correct, and if it does, why am i still getting these coma errors? Could it be incorrect backfocus? Searching the internet makes me think my dslr is 44mm, adding the t ring (even tried a 1mm spacer too) gets me to the required 55mm (assuming that's correct) I have no idea how to solve this and i feel like I'm just throwing money down the drain fighting this in vien. Help would be much appreciated. Skywacher Evostar 72ed Reducer rotator for 72ed (needs this for extra distance to achieve focus, the reducer and adapter alone do
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Hi, I am a complete novice and got into astrophotography in December of last year, I had some decent success using only my Canon 450D and stock 18-55mm lens. Since then I have purchased a telescope and mount (Sky-Watcher Startravel 102 and the AZGTe WiFi GOTO mount), which arrived yesterday. Luck would have it that the skies were clear last night and I had a go at imaging both M42 and M31 (also tried m45 tonight just to see if I could fiddle around with anything to solve it, but no luck), both of which came out pretty dissapointingly. If someone could tell my what is is that is wron
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I'm new to the astrophotography hobby. I have experience with astronomy. I am struggling to make decent deep sky images (other than M42). The images don't seem to have much definition or brightness despite a decent overall exposure time. See the below images. I have seen on this forum that people are able to take awesome images of the below objects with my same setup. Is anyone able to tell me if I am missing something, please? Do I need even more exposure time? I use a Celestron 6SE with unmodified Canon 600D. It has a goto alt az, no EQ. I use a bahtinov mask to focus. Both images were -
Hello, when applying the flats taken in my last session (to find out what is causing the strange diffraction spikes) with Siril, the final stacked result still shows the vignetting and the dust spots. I also did the whole preprocessing with Nebulosity, same result. I took the flats as follows: same iso as my subs camera and focus not touched I use a homemade flatbox combined with the a white t-shirt with Ekos took test shots till the histogram was half-way to the left checked all my flats, they all show vignetting and the same dust spots as in my subs
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I would like to share my second image. This is IC 1499, also known as the California Nebula, taken over 4 nights, under my Bortle 5 home sky. Total integration time: 10h 21m 00s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300 astromodified Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4 Guide-camera: ZWO ASI 224MC 2020/11/06: Number of subs/Exposure time: 23@180s + 41@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 67% illuminated 202
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Saturn and Jupiter in the Southwest sky at 19:30est on December 5. Globular Cluster M75, Saturnian moons Rhea and Titan, and Jovian moons Ganymede, Callisto, Io, and Europa are also visible. Sony a6400, 69 light frames, darks, flats, dark flats, and bias. 8 seconds, f6.3, 321mm, iso400. Stacked in DeepSky Stacker. Processed in StarTools and Photoshop.
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After a few months of getting used to my new 8 inch beast, I decided to start astrophotography (luckily today is Black Friday in most tech shops in my country). So I decided to drop the idea of buying a DSLR and started thinking about getting a webcam. The thing is that I want to try deepsky AP, so i was wondering, is there a webcam that could get me good results for DSO AP? Don't worry, I don't want anything too fancy because I'll be happy with entry-level images. (i saw some nice Andromeda pictures with 20GBP cameras on this forum so I'm confident that it would work). My budget is ±100
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I would like to share my first picture ever posted and the first real picture captured with my Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series (not counting the test shots for "first light"). This is IC 1805, also known as the Heart Nebula, taken over 4 nights, under my Bortle 5 home sky. Total integration time: 8h 52m 20s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300 astromodified Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4
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Hello, I'm selling these 2 filters since I'm getting a mono astro cam. The filters are barely used and in perfect condition, no scratches, no fingerprints, not even dust. They are both amazing filters, probably the best investment I've made. I've attached some images taken with these filters, using a 100$ celestron newtonian, a 250$ Canon 500D and the infamous AVX. Also attached are images of the filters showing their perfect condition. Astronomik CLS-CCD Canon Clip in Filter: https://www.astronomik.com/en/filter-gegen-lichtverschmtzung-filters-against-lightpollution-lpr/cls-ccd -
From the album: Peggson's astrophotos
I shot this yesterday from a Bortle 6 backyard. Edited in Pixinsight and Photoshop If someone here knows how to remove purple stars, please help me . I tried defringing but it didn't really work. Also the date is wrong should be 9.10.2020. lol© Peggson's photo
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I have already posted my first astrophotographic session report in the telescope review thread: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series - Review. But since that is more of a general review/diary of my experience with the new telescope, I feel some of the issues I am having are being buried and they will probably get more visibility if I post them - in a more synthetic version - in a dedicated thread. So, a few nights ago (October, the 5th) I took out my new telescope for its first light. All the photos have been taken with the 0.8x flattener/reducer and the Optolong L-Pro 2" filter a
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Having previously got some reasonable images by mounting a smart phone to the eyepiece. I thought I would try for a more sophisticated set up. So last night I tried to get some pictures of the moon using a Canon Eos D450 connected to a Skywatcher 130p Newtonian via a T2 connection on the eyepiece holder. As the camera has automatic focusing built into the lens I thought I would have to adjust the focuser on the eyepiece holder to manually get a sharp image. Basically the telescope acting as a manually focused lens for the camera. But no joy, I just got a bright light which
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Hello all, I'm new to this forum and astrophotography, and observing for that matter! I've been observing for a few weeks now, well, when the clouds allow, obviously! I thought I'd dip my toe in the water as far as imaging goes, but didn't want to go nuts in terms of budget. As luck would have it I managed to get hold of a Canon 1100D on eBay complete with full spectrum mod for £129, which seemed pretty reasonable to me given the cost of the modification on its own. The camera is in great condition and seems to work fine, however I have a couple of queries that I hope you more experi -
Can I reach focus with a DSLR and a focal reducer like with a barlow because my telescope does not have enough inward focus . -
Below is a comparison between single dark frames taken with the Nikon D7500 and D5300 with exposure durations varying from 1 sec to 240 sec ( my usual main light frame exposure ) all at ISO400. Firstly a graph of the standard deviation of the noise in the dark frames versus exposure time: The standard deviation of the noise is a fairly constant 2 ADU less for the D7500 compared to the D5300 ( pretty much the difference in the read noise between the two ) However, the difference is not just in absolute terms but also in the quality of the noise ... Below are the dark fr -
The Horsehead , The Flame and Alnitak - HaO3RGB JanFeb2020
MarsG76 posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Deep Sky Imaging
I managed to get some time to process another of my images exposed in January/February 2020. This was the last image when my USB port on my Astro40D failed. This happened while imaging this scene but it happened toward the end of the imaging plan so I got almost the subs that I wanted. The total exposure time was 16 hours and 16 minutes in ISO1600 for all of the subs, RGB, (OSC through the UV/IR Cut filter), HAlpha and OIII. Imaged through my 8" SCT at f6.3, 1280mm FL.© Mariusz Goralski
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From the album: wvb_dso
NGC1499 17 * 3 and 4 mins frames -
From the album: The next step.
Was really chuffed to catch this comet, especially with the two tails. This i believe is the 5th comet i've caught 'on film' as it were. Along with Panstarrs - ISON - Jacques, and Lovejoy (forgot the numerical names). Equipment: ED80 - / 350D -/ EQ6 -/ CLS clip
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