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Having searched for a while I managed to acquire the legendary Pentax Asahi SMC Takumar 6 element 135mm f2.5 m42 lens to use for wide-ish images, I've also got a 200mm f4 to try. I'm using it with a modded Canon 600D. I'm wondering if there is a way to improve the infinity focus, the below was shot at roughly f5.5 with the 135mm to reduce star bloat (around a 10 image stack of 30s each, no calibration frames), but the focus is still off despite the lens being at it's infinity focus stop with the focusing ring. It could be the m42 to ef adaptor I have maybe too thick/thin (though I don't really see how much thinner/thicker it can be to make a difference), the lens is fully home against the front face of the ring and the ring is fully connected to the DSLR body. Any suggestions or is this the best I can expect from such an old and wide-ish lens? The image has been level stretched around 3 times, and the red channel brought down in line with the green and blue. -
Hi All, Here is an attempt at the Eta Carinae Nebula. 100 x 20sec subs 20 flats at ISO 800 with a NexStar 102SLT and unmodified Canon 700D. Being near the equator, I am lucky to have access to objects in both Northern and Southern skies to some degree. While it is said that this object is brighter and more extensive than the great Orion Nebula, it seems to be more challenging to image. A nearby floodlight pointing up at the sky in it's general direction probably made matters worse. Capture was with KStars/Ekos and processed with Siril and Gimp. Sky was Bortle 4 to 5 and the Nebula was about 20 degrees above the horizon. Thanks for looking.
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Hi all, Here is the requisite M42 image. It was taken using my NexStar 102 SLT and Canon 700D - 40X20sec lights at ISO 400 and 20 flats captured with Ekos (Astroberry server), processed with Siril and Gimp. Sky is around Bortle 5. The chromatic abberation though clearly present, seem to be less than I have had in past attempts with this telescope. I think it is due to more careful focusing. My personal taste in astrophotography is a preference towards not losing information that is present in the image, while going for better esthetic results. I thus tried not to lose faint stars and nebulosity in favor of trying to get a dark background. Although I am not displeased with the result, of course I am now thinking about a dedicated astro camera and and APO (or small RC) scope and equatorial mount and filters... it is fortunate that these things are so hard to get where I am! Thanks for looking!
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Hi everyone, I would like to ask an advice as a beginner in astrophotography. I will try to be as clear as possible. I managed to connect my Canon 6D Mark II through NINA to my laptop. No matter how hard I tried so far, I couldn't manage to get a nice relatively shapr image of moon. On the other hand, with same telescope (Skywatcher MIRA 200p), same DSLR, when I unplug the camera from USB and just press the shutter button manually, I get much sharper image. Could there be any difference in your opinion? Or I am just clumsy with computers? -
I was pleased to get the new ASIAIR plus only to be disappointed to discover that the power outlets though adjustable, it was the amps that were adjustable and not the voltage, as I was hoping to power my DSLR with a dummy battery. I therefore reverted to using normal batteries but soon realised that they only lasted about an hour each taking 300s subs, this was not going to work as I'd hoped once setup I could leave it to do it's thing without my intervention. So I decided a DIY solution was required, I purchased some Buck converters, small project boxes and some 5.5 x 2.1mm plugs, I got several of each as a mate has just got a new EQ8R mount and it has 12v outlets that he can use to power his DSLR too. I soldered some leads onto the boards, connected the input end to my Nevada PSU and my multi-meter to the output and adjusted the potentiometer until I had 8.4v, very easy to do. I tested it on the mount before putting the board in the project box, only to discover it was not quite deep enough for it to click together, so out came the black electrical tape. I then tested it on my setup and it works perfectly, powering up the camera straight away.
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Equipment: EQ6R-Pro; Explore Scientific 80ED Triplet; ZWO ASI120MC guide camera; Canon 250D imaging camera; OVL field flattener. Software: NINA; PHD2 (multistar). I cannot solve this issue with the stars in my images. It started some weeks ago, and basically I am not able to image at all. Image 1 shows a 10sec exposure on the star Sirius, with the teardrop shaped stars around. Image 2 shows 120sec exposure on NGC7522, same night, same setup, again teardrop stars. On both images you can see the tracking is lower than 1, and on a windy night. Both images here show the exact same type of distortion to the stars. I did try a 240sec exposure and that was the same. Image 3 shows PHD2 on Sirius, changing any of the settings doesn't work. This was after a new calibration was carried out, which was very good (see image 4). Any ideas please? Tony
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Hi all, I don’t really have a specific issue but was hoping someone might help with general advice for astrophotography. I’m using a 130pds with Canon 500D, shooting raw, on a belt driven guided Vixen-GP. Guiding is SVBony SV-106 50mm with qhy5l-ii-c. I did two test sessions - One on Monday night, one on Tuesday. Both nights were remarkably clear. (I know...hard to believe!) The first night I captured m81+m82 together, prime, with 1 minute 800 ISO images over about 90 minutes. I know that’s not a huge amount, but enough to gain some experience+confidence, I think. I learned that 1 minute at 800 probably isn’t enough but, regardless, the first subs looked usable. I noticed, after the session, that subs became darker as time went on. Shooting between around 22:00 and midnight that made some sense, as the sky was getting darker, but the subject (m81+m82) and stars got substantially darker too. I expected the backdrop would darken over time but the target+stars should remain around the same brightness. Am I wrong? The stack of these images really pleased me, though - Although the target galaxies weren’t particularly bright or well developed, the image was nice and clear and the backdrop smooth and dark. A success, from my perspective. For the second night I decided to improve by increasing the sub lengths and also decided to 2X Barlow and focus on just m82. I’m aware Barlow would make the subs much darker than at prime so I did some tests at 3 minute exposure. Not seeing a huge difference in target brightness I tried 4, 5, 6…and finally 8 minute. Surprised at how little difference there was I tested increasing ISO bit by bit too. I ended up taking 8 minute exposures at 3200 ISO, wondering why the target and stars still looked so faint. I only got around 10 subs but, this time, I noticed they became brighter as the night went on - The exact opposite of what happened the night before, shooting at the same time (22:00 to midnight) The stack this time was very disappointing - Very grainy/noisy, backdrop nowhere near as dark - Pretty much monochrome looking - It looked like something from the guide-cam but noisier! I’m stacking with DSS, took 5 or more dark frames for each session, and used the same flat frames for both sessions. I also tried stacking both sessions without flats, which didn’t account for the difference. Environment was the same both nights - Same setup position, same neighbourhoods lights (or unusual lack thereof!), no rising moon… I suppose my questions are Why would my lights get darker (background, stars, and target) as the night went on on night one? Why would my lights get lighter (background, stars, and target) as the night went on on night two? Why would night one stack perfectly but night two stack looks terrible? Safe to say 3200ISO was pushing it but the stack should still look better than any sub, no? Many thanks to anyone who read my wall o' text. First session first sub First session last sub First session stack Second session first sub Second session last sub First session stack
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Been wondering whether it's worth getting an Askar fma180 for my dslr to use as a secondary setup for widefield, not too sure about the lens quality. It'll be on an Omegon LX tracker which I've found to be quite good for unguided tracking. Open to suggestions for other lenses other than the usual Samyang/Rokinon, even older prime lenses. Camera is an IR modded Canon 600d.
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Just thought i'll bring this up as a point of discussion. Today, cooled CMOS Astro Cameras are available in plenty. QHY, ZWO and other variants of the same camera are selling for very reasonable prices. However, there was a point of time when astrophotographers used to cool down their DSLR's as a cheap OSC alternative to CCD cameras. Give a choice, I would've purchased a dedicated CMOS OSC which can cool to 40 C below ambient, but since I had a Canon 500D which I had self modded, I requested a friend Kaustav Chatterjee (an avid model railroader) to cold mod my 500D (he had cold modded his 1000D long back). This newly modded camera has a TEC12703 single peltier and cools to approximately 20 below ambient.What do you guys think?
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Hey all. I am a complete nooby. And I’m trying to get going (on a budget) with what I have available. I am trying to use my dslr canon 2000d with Nina and sharpcap. Unfortunately after downloading the drivers etc it’s still not connecting to either. Please help! many thanks, Mike. -
Below is a comparison between single dark frames taken with the Nikon D7500 and D5300 with exposure durations varying from 1 sec to 240 sec ( my usual main light frame exposure ) all at ISO400. Firstly a graph of the standard deviation of the noise in the dark frames versus exposure time: The standard deviation of the noise is a fairly constant 2 ADU less for the D7500 compared to the D5300 ( pretty much the difference in the read noise between the two ) However, the difference is not just in absolute terms but also in the quality of the noise ... Below are the dark frames - ranging from 240 sec exposures at the top to 1 sec at the bottom: D7500 D5300 The D5300 dark frames clearly show the pattern in the read noise ( banding down the bottom ) and also have far more chrominance noise compared to the D7500. At 240 seconds ( the main exposure I have been using ) the difference is starkly different; the D7500 produces images with much lower noise that is significantly more even and random and hence more likely to be reduced during integration. -
From the album: Deep Sky Imaging
This is NGC3603 and NGC3576 (AKA The "Statue of Liberty" nebula), a massive H-Alpha region containing a very compact open cluster, located in the constellation "Carina" about 20,000LY away. I took this photo during two nights, 14th and 15th March 2021. Imaged using a active cooled and full spectrum modded Canon 40D DSLR attached to a 80mm f6.25 refractor on a CGEM equatorial mount. Total exposure time was 3 Hours and 31 minutes in natural color through UV/IR Cut filtered subs from a semi rural sky. RGB: 19x60s, 19x120s, 18x180s and 20x300s subs @ ISO1600.© Mariusz Goralski
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Statue of Liberty Nebula (NGC3603) - 19Feb-15Mar2021
MarsG76 posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Deep Sky Imaging
This is NGC3603 and NGC3576 (AKA The "Statue of Liberty" nebula), a massive H-Alpha region containing a very compact open cluster, located in the constellation "Carina" about 20,000LY away. I took this photo on multiple nights, between 19th February and 15th March 2021. Imaged using my cooled and full spectrum modded Canon 40D DSLR attached to a Bosma 80mm f6.25 refractor on a CGEM equatorial mount. Total exposure time was 22 Hours and 1 minute using 7nm HII, OIII and SII Narrowband filters and stars are from natural color (UV/IR Cut filter) subs... imaged from a semi rural sky. HII: 6x600s, 6x900s and 4x1200s subs, OIII: 10x900s, 8x1200s and 1x1800s subs SII: 18x1800s subs RGB: 19x60s, 19x120s, 18x180s and 20x300s subs @ ISO1600.© Mariusz Goralski
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From the album: Peggson's astrophotos
I shot this yesterday from a Bortle 6 backyard. Edited in Pixinsight and Photoshop If someone here knows how to remove purple stars, please help me . I tried defringing but it didn't really work. Also the date is wrong should be 9.10.2020. lol© Peggson's photo
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From the album: Marci’s Astropix
7x20s@ISO1600 (EOS1000D FSM) with 18-55mm kit lens -
From the album: Marci’s Astropix
15x240s@ISO800 Colour (EOS650D) 15x240s@ISO800 HII (EOS1000D FSM + 12nm HII) -
From the album: Marci’s Astropix
10x360s@ISO400 Ha (EOS1000D FSM + 12nm HII) 15x240s@ISO800 Colour (EOS650D) -
From the album: Marci’s Astropix
2hrs with EOS650D at 18Mp shooting visual colour range (240s subs @ ISO800), 1.5hrs with EOS1000D Full-spectrum-modified (no narrowband filters) at 10Mp (120s subs @ ISO800 as core blows out VERY easily in full spectrum). 5x dark frames and 20x bias frames for the EOS1000D session. No flats. Stacked in DSS 64bit with 2x drizzle, processed in Photoshop CC 2018 (very little needed doing to it to be honest, just pull the saturation up a bit to bring the colour out). This is a heavy crop hence the apparent low resolution of the final image. This was the last outing for the EOS650D before I killed it, hence no darks / bias applied to the subs from that camera - it died in process of taking it off mount to shoot darks etc whilst I packed everything else away.© M Coyles
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From the album: wvb_dso
NGC1499 17 * 3 and 4 mins frames -
From the album: The next step.
Was really chuffed to catch this comet, especially with the two tails. This i believe is the 5th comet i've caught 'on film' as it were. Along with Panstarrs - ISON - Jacques, and Lovejoy (forgot the numerical names). Equipment: ED80 - / 350D -/ EQ6 -/ CLS clip -
From the album: Mark's Stuff
My attempt at a Mineral Moon© All copyrights reserved M Clarke July 2021
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The Horsehead , The Flame and Alnitak - HaO3RGB JanFeb2020
MarsG76 posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Deep Sky Imaging
I managed to get some time to process another of my images exposed in January/February 2020. This was the last image when my USB port on my Astro40D failed. This happened while imaging this scene but it happened toward the end of the imaging plan so I got almost the subs that I wanted. The total exposure time was 16 hours and 16 minutes in ISO1600 for all of the subs, RGB, (OSC through the UV/IR Cut filter), HAlpha and OIII. Imaged through my 8" SCT at f6.3, 1280mm FL.© Mariusz Goralski
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From the album: Deep Sky
Imager: Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro, Sky-Watcher 0.85x Focal Reducer, Canon EOS 500D (Unmodified), Hutech IDAS LPS P2 2", APT - Astro Photography Tool Guider: Orion ST80, QHY 5, PHD 2 Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6, AstroTortilla, EQMod Processing: PixInsight 1.8 Dates: Friday 31st October, 2014 LIghts: 61 x 300seconds ISO400 (~5.1 hours) Darks: 109 Flats: 100 Bias: 330 (Processed Using PixInsight SuperBias module). I tried three different integrations in PixInsight - normal, Bayer Drizzle (1x with 1.0 drop size) and Drizzle 2x with 0.9 drop size. The Bayer drizzle did a better job on the colour as you'd expect - less bleeding of colour in/out of stars, but resolution and overall quality doesn't seem much better than standard integration. This version presented above uses the standard drizzle to produce a 2x larger image with much better resoluton. There is a noticeable difference in the size of small stars, roundness of larger stars and many more tiny stars in the galaxy arms. Even when downsampled for presentation (5x in this case) the image is much superior.© Ian Lauwerys 2014, All Rights Reserved
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From the album: 2015 Various
© Aenima
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From the album: DSO Imaging
M52 20 x 3 min guided subs 10 each flat, bias and darks
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MineralMoonLargeRstx6.jpg.facbad774b6041cd9727e9f3ae2b8baa.jpg)
