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Found 218 results

  1. Had a quick search but not found much info, I've just 'transitioned' from DSLR to a CMOS (AA 183C pro) Used to capture with APT or Backyard Nikon, save as RAW, DSS to stack and use autosave.tif to work on in Photoshop. Whats the general consensus on CMOS ? So far trying APT or Sharpcap, saving as FITS, stacking in DSS still and using autosave.tif into Photoshop. I keep seeing fits liberator mentioned ? Opinions gratefully received.
  2. This will be a thread detailing some of the changes and additions I will be doing to my ASC/Weather Station project. This is version 2.0 as I'll be making some very big changes from the initial project and I think continuing on in the existing thread would not have made much sense. So, I still want to use an APS size sensor as after seeing the quality and light capturing capabilities of the now defunct Opticstar DS-616C XL camera and Meike lens I simply cannot go back to using a smaller lens/sensor combination. One thing is certain, I won't be paying £400 or potentially more for another APS astro sized camera so with that in mind I plan on heavily modifying a Nikon D50 DLSR and use the same lens. I chose the D50 primarily due to it having a CCD sensor (ICX453AQ) very close in specs to the one in the Opticstar (ICX413AQ) and the fact that I got a hold of a fully working body for £25. Now there's a few issues with going down the DSLR route which I plan on addressing as follows: The oversized camera body can be stripped down to bare essentials and fitted in the existing case with some moving of parts around Uncooled, the sensor is quite noisy so to cool it I plan on using the existing Opticstar enclosure with the TEC and hopefully get it purged with Argon to avoid dew formation. Also, since the box will need to be completely sealed to achieve this, there's simply not enough room inside for the main board to which the sensor connects to. The only way around this is using an 39pin 150mm long FPC extension which I managed to find and will be arriving shortly. This means I can have the sensor completely sealed with enough slack in the connection to place the mainboard anywhere I want. The D50 uses the NEF file extension as a "RAW" file format but it's not truly RAW and a heavy median filter is applied to all long exposure images to smooth out the noise. It works great for day to day shots, but in an application such as mine it'll most probably eliminate or severely affect my stars as most of them at the FL I'll be using the camera at will be a few pixels across and the Nikon median filter is very aggressive with such small features. The way around this is what's commonly known as Mode 3 on Nikons. Nikons have a additional Noise Reduction mode which takes the long exposure light first then straight after an equal length dark with the shutter closed, then applies the dark on the light and you get a further noise reduced image which again works very well, but not so much for AP. With mode 3 you essentially have the NR feature on and take an exposure but then immediately shut down the camera after the light has finished exposing. What this does is it causes the camera to dump a REAL RAW image onto the SD card without applying the median filter OR the Noise Reduction process. This obviously results in a much noisier image as expected, but all the stars will still be there and the image in this way can then be dark-subtracted and processed to my liking. I'll post some test shots I've taken to illustrate this. The D50 uses a hybrid shutter, both the CCD electronic shutter and mechanical shutter are used depending I think on the exposure length. If a high enough exposure is used, from what I understand, one can use exclusively the electronic shutter, but for longer exposures the shutters work in conjunction. Now I know the ICX413AQ in the Opticstar is more than capable of taking long exposures solely with its electronic shutter despite the fact that in its datasheet they recommend a mechanical shutter for proper use. So, my thinking is since the D50's sensor is similar to the ICX413AQ the only thing preventing the camera from being able to take any exposure using exclusively the electronic shutter is that its mechanical shutter is in the way and I don't think that the camera would prevent the CCD electronic global shutter itself to still open and close when required. However, this is all a theory at the moment and the only way to confirm it is to test the camera with the sensor outside when the FPC cable arrives. More on this later... In terms of capture software available, the D50 is actually very poor and I could only get digiCamControl to see and control the camera via USB. But I won't be using this as when the camera is hooked up to the PC its SD card is identified as a storage drive and the camera can be used as it would normally with the images appearing on the drive after being written to the SD! Since I'm using my VB app to process the images I would just point the app to that folder and should work. That's all I can think of for now but if and when new ones come up I'll add them here. Next I'll be describing some of the other changes planned.
  3. Hello everyone! Im having issues regarding dew during colder nights while imaging. I’m aware of how to solve the issue of dew forming on front elements of scopes/lenses using dew heaters, however I’m also concerned with the dew that forms on my non-weatherproof DSLR body and imaging laptop. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to combat this? Thanks!
  4. Pullock

    Canon 1300d Vs 4000d

    Hi everyone, just looking to get into astrophotography but looking at a DSLR as I'd like to use it for daytime use too, I know usually it's better for them to be modified but I've seen this can be done to allow use for both with only white balance adjustment. I've seen 1300d's going around £200 on eBay with the 18-55mm lens but the 4000d is a couple of years newer and there is currently one with 18-55mm + 75-300mm going for £350 at Currys. From what I can work out there isn't much difference between them besides a smaller screen on the 4000d and the release date. I'm just wondering if there is some reason people go for the 1300d instead or is it just because of it being older it turns up cheaper? Sorry for the long winded post but I'm doing lots of research to make sure I get the best one that'll last me the longest, thanks for any help.
  5. Hey everyone! I’m after some pretty wide-field DSOs that can be captured with an unmodified DSLR without too much struggle (apart from the Orion Nebula.) I can push my exposures up to around 3 minutes with no major star trailing but that’s about as far as I can go. Also I’m in the Southern Hemisphere so don’t have the luxury of choosing between many relatively bright Messier objects. Your suggestions are much appreciated!
  6. So, I have gone and got myself a Skywatcher Star Discovery 150p, which has so far proved to be a very good little scope and I've had some very good results. I have now got the bug for imaging and have gone out and got myself a second hand Nikon D5100 and verious other equipment needed to do this, only to now find I can't get Prime Focus!!!!!!!! So the only way I can image is using a barlow x2 which obviously changes the F ratio from F5.5 to F11 slowing everything x2 this isn't to bad for planetary imaging but for DSO images not so good!!! After searching through lots of videos on to do this all I can find is...... I can either butcher the standard rack and pinion focuser that's fitted on it by cutting it down and rethreading it or by moving the primary up by 20-25mm, which seems a shame to do a brand new scope still under warranty! The only other option I have come up with is changing the focuser to a Skywatcher Low Profile Dual Speed Focuser For Newtonian Reflectors. Could anyone out there shed any light on this before I spend another £130 on the new focuser. Thanks
  7. Hi All, So I am new to astrophotography and was looking for some advice on what to buy, mainly the mount as I don't have a huge budget. I am currently using a SkyWatcher 102mm Telescope (500mm Focal Length) with a Canon 550d along with a EQ2 mount, so no motors as of yet. Any advice on what mounts to get would be great. Thanks
  8. Hi guys After processing the Eastern & Wastern Veils separately a couple of months back, I've finally got round to doing the mosaic that was always the end goal (hence the framing of each panel). I'm not sure why I waited so long to do it, I think deep-down I was secretly dreading it really, as this is my first mosaic so I wasn't really sure how it would go. So this is just 2 panels, and each one has 5 hrs of Ha (15 x 1200s), with 3 hrs 20 mins of Oiii in one (10 x 1200s) and 3 hrs 40 mins of Oiii (11 x 1200s) in the other. So 17 hrs in total. APP was used for stacking, gradient reduction, and the mosaic creation. PS used for everything else. Ha assigned to Red, Oiii to Blue, and Green was synthesized from one of Carboni's actions. I've tried to push it as far as I dare to, did I over-do it do you think? I've resized it down to 66% to help hide some of the noise, and being a mosaic it's still plenty big. I might even end up bringing it down to 50%, we'll see. C&C welcome as always. I tend to finish my images very late at night, so I can sometimes fall into the trap of not seeing the image as clearly as I should! So feel free to be as harsh as you like
  9. I've been trying to do some photometry with my DSLR with a view to using it on variable stars as a quick "grab and go" solution when there is a gap in clouds etc. Rather than looking at variables I decided to start off with comparing some fixed stars to identify how well I can estimate magnitudes with my DSLR, and the table above shows the results. Using only two stacked frames (5s, ISO 800, F3.5 on my 5DMk2) with no darks, light polluted london sky, and just one comparison star I seem to be able to get to around 1% variance for the majority of the readings, with the worse being 2.54% out. Trying Chi Cas, against Upsilon1, Upsilon2 and omegaAnd comes up with M4.67 which is mag0.03 different (0.55%). I'll be honest I am surprised at the results as it is not all that far off the 0.01-0.02 mag range often quoted for looking at exoplanet transits for example. Has anyone else tried this exercise as i'm interested to know how these results stack up - good or bad. The only thing I know for sure is I couldn't get it that close visually using my eyes!
  10. Hi everyone, I recently decided to get a 70-200 f2.8 lens or similar (liek 80-200 nikkor) to mount on my Nikon D3300 and Star Adventurer, because as a landscape photographer I feel I will use way more a tele lens than a telescope. It will be a graduation present, so I hope no budget limit. My question is: which lens to choose? In order to capture some extra details I'll most likely add a teleconverter 2x if the choice will be a 70-200, otherwise I'm considering a 100-400 Sigma or Tamron but I can't find anything about how they perform. Thanks for your advices.
  11. Hi guys So we had a completely clear night last Thursday and, as luck would have it, i was actually off work all week, so i was able to take full advantage. Well, mostly, as you'll soon find out. As it turned out this was a night that almost went completely awry. The first thing that i messed up was i forgot the external battery that keeps the D5300 powered all night. I only noticed this after driving the 45 min trip back to the family home where i do my imaging. Doh! Luckily though, i dipped into my big bag of astro stuff and found the 2 old camera batteries and charger that i used to use. By my reckoning it was last December when i last used them, so i was amazed to find they still had quite a bit of charge in them! So i was able to charge one while i used the other. Unfortunately though it meant i had to keep going out to the scope every 2-3 hrs to change battery, but tbh i was just relieved that i didn't have to drive home and lose another 90 mins of dark sky time. The next thing to grumble was the guider. For some bizarre reason, i could not see Polaris in the Fov in Sharpcap. I could barely see anything at all tbh so even though Sharpcap told me it was able to platesolve i was very dubious. And then when i came to do the Sharpcap PA routine, the adjustments were jumping around all over the place. It took me about 25 mins to PA instead of the usual 5, and i really thought the guiding was going to be a nightmare, but what do you know, it turned out to be actually really good. It even dipped below 0.5" at times. Go figure! Due to the floodlights of the sports facility (which is rather conveniently only about 100 yards away from the house) i was forced to start with Ha subs, then once they were turned off at 10pm, i switched to Oiii, as i knew the moon was coming up around 00:30 so i needed to take advantage of the darkest part of the night. I figured i'd go for about 3 hrs of Oiii, knowing that with the final filter change back to Ha again, i should end up with about 4-5 hrs of Ha in total. Well, after doing the last filter change and going back in to grab a nap for a couple of hrs, when i woke up and checked Team Viewer i noticed that the sequence had unexpectedly ended. Went out and saw that the 7 Ahr LifePo4 battery i use for the mount had died. I also noticed that the lens of the Finder-Guider had completely dewed up. As it turned out, the dew strip for it had failed so i've had to order a new one. I've also ordered a PSU to power the HEQ5-Pro from the mains, so fingers crossed i shouldn't have to worry about mount power over the winter now. All in all this was a bit of a pain of a night, as i normally only shoot 1 filter per night. Sometimes in the longer winter nights i might do 2, but i've never done 3 before. It's a real hassle too, as i need to shoot flats, change filter, re-frame and re-focus. All of which can take upwards of 30 mins. Hmmphh. So long story short i didn't end up with as much Ha as i wanted for this, which has meant it's been trickier to process than i would have liked. I should probably have just waited and done another night of Ha, but with all the hassle i have to go through to get any imaging done these days (drive, setup, tear down and pack away, drive home, sleep deprivation) i will always just try and use what i've got and move on to the next target. The Mean ADU level was quite low on this one, probably because the target is quite small and only occupies the centre of the frame. I've probably been lucky up to now, by mostly shooting larger targets, so i was disappointed with the low ADU levels, which are scraping the bottom of the barrel for me in terms of getting away from the noise floor. So i upped my exposures a bit, pushing as high as 25 mins, which is the nighest i've ever gone with the HEQ5-Pro. It seemed to still handle it quite well, although it didn't improve the Mean ADU level anywhere near enough. Full capture details: 3 x 1200s, 2 x 1380s, and 4 x 1500s of Ha 9 x 1200s of Oiii. 11 x 480s of RGB (with an IDAS-D1). Used for the stars and sky background only. 7 Hrs 54 Mins in Total. All shot with a Nikon D5300, SW 80ED, and an HEQ5-Pro. The RGB data was shot over a year ago from inner city Belfast (Red Zone) while i was testing out the new Rowan belt mod. It was just a test shot to check the guiding, so the 8 min subs were far, far too long in reality, hence a lot of the medium and bright stars are clipped. But i have to say, the IDAS-D1 together with APP did a nice job of cleaning it right up and making it at least useable (well, by my standards at least!). So on to processing. I've been playing with this for several nights now, and i just can't look at it anymore! i think this is the best i can manage with the limited data i have. It's been enjoyable and yet frustrating at the same time, lol. As usual, this has been stacked in APP and processed in PS. I used the tone-mapping method of processing, and created a synthesised Sii from a 50/50 blend of the Ha and Oiii. I then combined them in the classic Hubble Palette SHO. Obviously, not having any real Sii means i can never get the full range of tonal variations throughout. I'm also not completely happy with the colours if i'm being honest (especially the blue). That was the part i struggled with the most on this one. I've also attached below a quick and dirty HaRGB version, which took me all of about 30 mins to process (in total contrast to the SHO version, which i won't say how long it took!). As always, constructive criticism welcomed with open arms! Ok time for me to stop rambling on now Edit - Forgot to say, I resized the sSHO version down to 75% of the original (it's not worthy of 100% viewing).
  12. Hi everyone, im about to purchase my first astrophotography rig and was wanting some opinions on the best method to capture subs. I’m looking at using backyard EOS on my laptop to control the DSLR, but would using a shutter release cable be better/easier? Thanks.
  13. Hello, I want to get into astrophotography. I have a Newtonian (200/1000) and I'd like to buy a DSLR. My preferred maker is Canon, but you can change my mind if you recommend something else and I like it . My budget is around $700 or less and most importantly used cameras not an option because in my country there isn't any good places to buy used DSLRs. I'd like to do prime focus photos and some Milky Way photos. I found out that the 1000d would be a good option but it's not in the stores any more. Then I thought about the 750d but it has vertical lines in the photos. Now I'm thinking about the 2000d but I didn't found any astrophoto experiences with it on the internet. So what's your recommendations?
  14. HI All, I have an entertaining video to share with you which is perfect for those just starting out and wanting to taste a bit of astrophotography without spending a lot of money. I image from London and managed to get a pretty good shot of Orion for just £150. This video runs through where I bought the equipment, why I bought it and how I used it to capture a Orion and some of the trials and tribulations I had to deal with on the way. Any questions please ask! Enjoy! FYI I shot this last year but with Orion now beginning to rise over the rooftops of London I thought this would be a good time to share it.
  15. Hi guys We had a few hours of clear skies here on Saturday night, so I set about getting some O-III for the Western Veil, after I had collected the Ha last month. Thankfully, the moon wasn't around, so even though I didn't get that many subs (only 10) at least they were of good quality. I actually fell asleep during the capture, and woke up to a 'Sequence Aborted' message in SGP and the sight of PHD2 going mad due to thick clouds. Quickly ran outside and thankfully there was no rain about (phew!). I got 11 subs in total, but the last one was totally unusable due to the clouds. The 10th one was affected too, but still looked useable to me, given that I know from experience that APP's 'Quality' stacking mode would know to give it less of a weighting, so I kept it. So this is 15 * 1200s of Ha and 10 * 1200s of OIII (8 Hrs 20 mins in total). Taken with the usual gear: Nikon D5300 (modded); HEQ5-Pro and a SW 80ED. Calibrated with Flats, Bias, and a Bad Pixel Map. APP used for stacking and gradient reduction. Everything else done in PS (including running Carboni's 'Synthesize Green Channel' action). After now having processed both the Eastern & Western Veils, I have to say I have found them to be among the hardest targets to process that I've done so far (although it's still early days for me yet, think I'm still under 15 DSO's and counting). I'm not sure if it's down to the sheer number of stars, or the very faint nebulosity that seems to be everywhere, but I've found the background to be especially difficult on these ones. Getting the Ha and OIII nicely balanced before combining probably has something to do with it. I also tend to do gradient reduction (which seems to affect the OIII a lot more than Ha) on the individual stacks before I combine them, so I wonder if I'd be better just leaving it to later in the process? (which I had to do again anyway, as there was still a noticeable red gradient visible later in the workflow). Something to note, I did go quite heavy on the star reduction. More so than I normally would. I found it wasn't until I upped it significantly, that the nebulosity really started to take centre stage. I like the impact it has made to the image overall, but it made me feel a little dirty at the same time, lol (if that makes any sense). Also, this isn't actually the finished version just yet. I have a bit more work to do on the background and stars (which need their colour toned down in places - probably shouldn't have ran Carboni's 'Increase Star Colour', in hindsight I don't think it needed it). I was literally falling asleep at the monitor last night while attempting to finish it off, and in the end had to admit defeat. So hopefully I can get around to it later tonight. Then the next thing will be the big mosaic of both Eastern & Western Veils. I'm both looking forward to, and dreading it, in equal measures As always C&C warmly welcomed!
  16. lux eterna

    NGC7129

    During two nights I managed to get 29 x 10 minutes @iso200 on this shy target. Postprocessing was not easy, so I ended up with some much appreciated PixInsight processing help from @Ceph - Thanks Jim ! Stars may be a little soft due to extreme humidity, but at least I kept the corrector plate almost clear. C & C most welcome. Ragnar
  17. Greetings everyone. Few months ago I wrote a post about a small refractor to mount on a Star Adventurer, but I'm now considering fast tele lens like the Nikon 80-200 f2.8. My question is: what is the best tele lens to get pictures of Andromeda galaxy, Orion, Soul, Hearth nebula and stuff like these? If I'd pick a 70-200 f2.8 lens, can I plug a teleconverter 2x to get better crop without losing details? I've attached a picture taken with my Nikon D3300 and 18-105 kit lens, as you can see it's quite small (forget about the quality, it was also quite foggy back then). Thanks in advance.
  18. Went out on Sunday night to try and get some OIII for the Veil Nebula Bi-Colour Mosaic I’m currently working on. It ended up being a largely frustrating night though as I was fighting a big, bright full moon (in hindsight not the smartest decision I’ve ever made in fairness, lol). Factor in just enough intermittent clouds to exacerbate the issue even more, and when it finally set behind the neighbour’s house at 03:30am I was feeling pretty glum and was about to pack up for the night when I suddenly thought, what the heck, let’s try for a quick capture of 21P! As it was fairly low to the East, I had to disconnect all the cables and carry the whole rig to the other side of the house and re-do Polar Alignment, PHD calibration and focus. I did think about not guiding, as I knew the exposures were going to be short, but it just feels wrong not to guide these days so I decided to do it anyway just for peace of mind if nothing else. So I started capturing around 04:15ish and as astro-dark was due to finish shortly after 5am I decided to just do 40 subs of 90s each using the IDAS-D1 filter (we have streetlights nearby). Went in to grab a quick 60 mins of shuteye, except I overslept and didn’t wake until 06:30, so was then in a mad rush to pack up and get ready for work! Which meant I forgot to get Flats, but thankfully I was able to re-use the master Flat from my M13 image from a few months back and it seemed to work just fine Processing this one was interesting to say the least. This is my first comet, so I had to do some research beforehand. These days I always do my stacking in APP, but I had to go old-school and use DSS for this one due it’s special Comet-only stacking mode. So I did 2 stacks, a regular Median one just for the stars, and a 2nd Kappa-Sigma one aligned on the Comet (and using the same reference frame as the Median stack). Some subs were badly affected by intermittent clouds, so I could only stack 33 out of the 40 subs (and tbh 33 was really pushing it, quality-wise). I processed each one separately in PS and then layered in just the comet on top using the ‘Screen’ blending mode. I actually wasn’t aware there was red nebulosity in the background until I started stretching, and it certainly would have been easier to process had it not been there, lol. As expected, I have had to use quite a bit of NR compared to my normal amount, due to the pitiful amount of exposure to work with. Hopefully it doesn’t look too bad but let me know if you think it needs more or less of anything in particular. Of course, there’s only so far you can ever go with just 49 mins of data at hand. As the capture was done in such a rush, I didn’t bother worrying about the framing. I just input the co-ordinates into SGP and let it centre on the object for me. But having now worked out where in the sky this is, and looking at the FoV, I can see that had I rotated the camera 90 degrees then the Cone Nebula would have been in the frame. I actually haven’t imaged the Cone before, so I think this winter I will make a point of imaging it in it’s own right, and then I can re-use it to make a much more interesting version of this image with a much better background. Fun times! C&C welcome as always. And thanks for looking! Edit: Decided to make a few changes, so here's v2:
  19. Hello there! I am almost a noob to telescopes, but in the past weeks I have been watching Mars, Neptune, Saturn etc. But absolutely no look with any galaxy or cluster. And guess what, I LOVE IT! I own a Celeston Nexstar 4SE and a Nikon 3100 but I have no idea what I need to buy to connect them. Something like a T adaptor or I dont know... please help! Also, I would love to use some filters and a wifi for my AUX so I can use the app on my phone. So it woul be great to help with those aswell. I know that my telescope is not very good with nebulas and stuff like that, but I guess it can still take some decent shots of them right?
  20. JohnSadlerAstro

    How to Get Less Noise

    Hi, I have a Canon EOS 1000d, which I modded back at the start of the year. I usually capture subs of about 3-5mins duration at ISO 800. However, I'm wanting to image the Deer Lick group with Stephan's Quintet, and I'm going to need to go right the way to 5 min subs for them. I've noticed quite high noise levels at ISO 800, is this the optimal speed to use? Would it be better to capture subs at ISO 400, or would they then be really underexposed? Would I be better doing 3 min subs at ISO 1600? I find ISO a little bit confusing, as far as I know it's a measure of how the camera's computer assigns brightness from the raw pixel values? Thanks for looking! John
  21. lux eterna

    OIII added to elephant

    Hello all, I recently collected some OIII data for my previous attempt of the Elephants Trunk. I used a 2" Astronomik 12nm filter inside my TS Imaging Star 71, riding in my dual imaging rig. I knew it would be very difficult to point the TS71 correctly and frame the Trunk with the OIII filter blocking so much light, so I was lucky to have this method which put it spot on target. I added the OIII data as a "lighten" layer to the original blue channel, then used some "selective colour" etc (alignment was done with Registar). The new image is a bit dark, I know, but that is intentional and I think it works well if watched in low ambient light. C&C most welcome. Used Nikon D7000 & NexGuide on HEQ5 Pro. Ragnar
  22. Hi Stargazers, After a lot of work and help from the great Damian Peach I managed to get some really good images of Jupiter Mars and Saturn despite a total spend of just £100... and I made another bonkers Astrobiscuit video about it which I hope you enjoy. Mr Peach really helped me pick my nights to image and the other big surprise was how good the canon 600D is at planetary. All comments/ advice/ criticisms most welcome...
  23. Having recently replaced my astrophotography camera, I now have the old one up for sale on an astro site. However, doesn't hurt advertising it here Here is an astro modified Canon Rebel xsi which is the Canon 450D equivalent. It is "good" condition and fully working order but does have some light scratches to the rear screen. I have tried to photograph these but they do not show up when the camera is switched on Shutter count is 3860 which is extremely low. Also included are the following : Astronomik CLS clip filter which really is fantastic and makes a huge difference. It also adds additional dust protection. Battery system / dc coupler - connects to a figure of 8 lead (IEC C7 Power Lead) - I might have one spare if deemed absolutely necessary. This device provides permanent power to the camera for those long nights - brilliant ! 3 batteries and multi-voltage charger (mains / 12volt / 24volt) I do not have the original box but it can be posted to UK address. I would prefer collection (near Filey, North Yorkshire) but willing to post if you cover Paypal fees. I might have a couple more batteries in other camera bags !! Reason for sale is purchase of an astro modified Sony A7S with canon lens adaptor. Including a few photos taken with this camera. Two of these images were placed 1st and 3rd in two separate Astrofest competitions in Yorkshire (York and Hull). £120
  24. I got some cracking single exposure shots of Deep Sky objects today after a decent polar alignment. The culmination of everything I’ve learnt so far; a lot of reading and practice. I was totally blown away by the colours in the Orion Nebula which looks like a grey whisp in the eyepiece. 30 seconds of the DSLR sensor sucking in photons made a big difference. All taken using ISO 200 (apart from the double cluster) and 30 second exposures. My questions: Most of the stars are smudged, I tried my best with alignment, is there anything else I can do to minimise this?Are the settings ok? I noticed more detail but also more light pollution using ISO 400 in the double cluster.Will the shots get better and less smudged when I start stacking?Thanks in advance. P.S. The full size shots can be found on my blog - http://astromartian.wordpress.com/
  25. BeeJay

    Waxing Gibbous Moon

    Good Day to you all, I just wanted to share my first real attempt at photographing the Moon. This image is the result of a stack of 50 or so photos processed using Registax. I used my Nikon dslr and a telephoto lens. I would gladly welcome your critique. The image has been optimized for web, the original was over 60mb in size. Thank you Ben
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