Dr_Ju_ju

I suspect you will soon be coming back to the forum, querying why the repeater cable isn't working, as most of us have found that they don't work well, especially at 20m lengths (even a lot less)....

was everything balanced properly ? Also if its been sat doing nothing, did you ensure that everything moved smoothly with no "dead/sticky spots" that may have built up.

For the ASI294MC camera, ZWO publish the specs (below) and even selecting the lower bit rate, the highest transfer rate, under IDEAL conditions, is 19fps, but in REAL world conditions that will drop significantly especially when adding in mount control/guiding etc. Sensor: 4/3″ SONY IMX294 CMOS Diagonal: 23.2mm Resolution: 11.7Mega Pixels 4144X2822 Pixel Size: 4.63µm Bayer Pattern: RGGB Exposure Range: 32µs-2000s ROI: Supported Non-volatile memory/On camera storage: Build-in total 192K byte user-accessible space(image size up to 480X320) Interface: USB3.0/USB2.0 ST4 Guider Port: Yes Focus Distance to Sensor: 17.5mm Shutter Type: Rolling Shutter Protect window: AR coated window Operating System Compatibility: Mac, Windows, Linux Interface: USB3.0/USB2.0 Bit rate: 12bit output(12bit ADC) Adaptor: 2″ / 1.25″ / M42X0.75 Dimension: φ62mm X 36mm Weight: 120g or 4.2 ounces (without lens) Working Temperature: -5°C—45°C Storage Temperature: -20°C—60°C Working Relative Humidity: 20%—80% Storage Relative Humidity: 20%—95% Max FPS at full resolution: 12Bit ADC 4144×2822 19fps 14bit ADC 4144×2822 16fps More resolutions can be user defined

Unfortunately it's nigh on impossible to give you empirical data, as stand alone figures would be meaningless. Without having your equipment to test with, and knowing what other events/applications/buffering that the PC is doing, will greatly influence any results etc. Manufactures sometimes offer data transfer rates, but this is only from the device under test to the receiving computer and not writing to any local/remote storage. So by all means, give it a go with what you have, to see if it will work... one of the reasons it may be perceived that we only offer 'equipment upgrades', is that we do have the experience of trying to do what you want, and have found that in the end, for useable performance, especially with modern hi res cameras etc., the easiest route is also to upgrade the computing devices as well as the imaging devices.

I believe that what you already have, will only cause you frustration as it tries to cope with the load you are trying to put on it, so no it would not be capable.... Start saving for a new/used laptop, or go balls out for the Pi4 route !!

A Pi4 8Gb would be faster & much more capable than the Celeron PC, but it would necessitate learning about some new OS/software etc. Personally, I'd have a look out on eBay for a used laptop, with an i7 processor, at least 8GB memory, 300-500 GB hard disk and at least 2 USB 3 ports and USB 2 ports, also wired (ethernet) / Wifi connectivity... e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144251216148?epid=16036394839&hash=item21960ae114:g:i80AAOSw2gphO4--

With all those 'enclosed' cases, ensure that you have a heat transfer pad with thermal grease fitted, as I have found that, sometimes the case pads don't always make full contact with the chips they are supposed to be cooling, and even with some of them they also require a fan to remove residual heat..,.

then just go for one of these https://thepihut.com/products/dual-fan-heatsink-for-raspberry-pi

If you're lucky enough to have hardware that meets the specification, and not part of a local domain, then currently you can upgrade for free, if your brave enough.... I have it on a test laptop, but honestly, I doubt I'll be upgrading any of my other PC's as, for me, it just doesn't offer any advantages, and for some software, will actively try to inhibit from running, as it doesn't meet M$'s perceived view of what or what is not safe to run....

If its brand new then don't make any mods/changes to it !, as that wil invalidate any warranties etc. Contact the retailer, and tell them about your concerns, then see what they recommend...

For which mount ? 'L' usually denotes an inductor, so if you've passed enough current to burn one out, I'd also suspect that other components have also suffered some damage.

only the adapter plate, never the mount, you won't know where the swarf can wheedle its' way into....

I take it you just mean the parts that hold the motor in place ?? on what scope ?? what motor do you intend to use ?? ....

Grrrrr, now stop showing off !!! you're making me jealous, & looking at the bank balance.....

to make it easier to have multiple computers in the obsy, I'd recommend getting a gigabit network switch e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B07PYSNSDD , for more money, there are even some that have the power over ethernet capability e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B017LWQIZA these can be useful for driving external cameras / weather stations etc.

I personally never use wifi for anything other than 'toys' i.e. phones & other devices that can tolerate a disconnection in service etc. I always go for the wired connection, for reliability and easier fault finding if things are misbehaving, especially as everything is 'local' and mains powered, so why introduce something else to give you a headache....

As a general rule, you should never run an application with administer / administrative rights. The installation routines should configure appropriate security settings for either the user running the installer, or anyone else using the computer. You don't say what OS you are running, but if your user account is configured with admin rights, all software should run ok, including Deep Sky Stacker..

hopefully it will install to a different part of the disk, but unfortunately you will have to just bite the bullet & go for it.... hopefully this incident will teach you one of the benefits of saving to separate disc's or network storage etc....

first off DON'T do anything on the drive where they are stored, then install Microsoft's "Windows File Recovery tool", that should do what you want .... https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-file-recovery/9n26s50ln705?activetab=pivot:overviewtab

what were they stored on and the OS is ??

First off forget issues with the wifi dongle, as that's just an interconnect device, so I would then suspect that the software you are using, is storing some alignment points, and these are disagreeing with the current data hence the discrepancy. Uninstalling/reinstalling may well not be removing these stored files, so you may need to look for a separate data folder...

How are you connecting between the PC & your equipment, and power supply you are using ??

What power supply are you using ? make sure it's giving at least 12v and can supply 3/4 amps, maybe over the top, but better to be safe than sorry.... Do you have a USB to Serial adapter e.g. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-usb-to-serial-adapter-for-sky-watcher-handsets-5m.html that you can connect directly to the mount/computer ??, by-passing the handset/wifi adapter, to at least ensure that the mount is working...

If there isn't one here : https://www.qhyccd.com/polemaster/ then I'd suggest you'll have to make one, the easiest being a 3D printed part, but that relies you having the right equipment available....

I take it you mean the AZ EQ5-GT mount (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-az-eq5-gt-geq-alt-az-mount.html) ? if so, and by the look of it, from the pictures, it is based on some for of GX16 multipole connector e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283143222904 and so, personally, also if you have a soldering iron etc., I'd just make one or more up, to the length you require, and maybe even using a coiled cable, to allow for extension without too much dangling around....