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Rusted last won the day on November 9 2020

Rusted had the most liked content!

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About Rusted

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    Brown Dwarf

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  • Interests
    ATM, imaging, solar, Solar system, photography, blogging, cycling, walking, birdwatching, digiscoping, audio, DIY, clocks.
  • Location
    Exiled to sunniest and darkest, rural Denmark!

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  1. Adding artificial colouring often turns the umbra of sunspots brown.
  2. It is definitely a spot but the seeing is too soft for an art work.
  3. Many thanks. I bought them from a flea market for not much money. Because, as I pointed out, the hinge wouldn't move nor would they focus. I can only assume they had been baking in hot sunshine for years. So the solvents [?] in the grease had evaporated. Just a guess.
  4. Off topic [as usual] but I could do with a solvent for the hardened grease in my pair of Optolyth 8x56 [rubber armoured] binoculars.
  5. Don't ever look through any top name brand or you will be disappointed by any other purchase. Top names only got there by years of research and refinement. They are sold on word of mouth recommendation by respected, fellow bird spotters. I used my battered old, Vixen 90mm f/11 achromat as my minimum optical standard. [with Baader 1.25" erecting prism and Meade 4000 EPs used in all light conditions up to several hundred yards] It was a real eye opener when I compared it to some expensive spotting scopes. Including a Zeiss 70mm zoom and the top model of a 85mm US range raved about
  6. Good job on both counts. Nicely crisp too!
  7. As a final image here is maximum obscuration through the Kowa/Lumix G9 with the correct orientation. Complete with dust bunnies and ring like, colour artefacts from brightening in post processing. Had I thought about it more I should have mounted the camera and spotting scope on the refractors. Then I wouldn't have had to keep searching for the sun with the scope mounted on a locked up Manfrotto fluid head. My Sirui gimbal head has a much larger base screw so I couldn't quickly mount it on the dome base ring. The moon's bite out of the sun was far too large to capture in H-alpha at 1
  8. I was incredibly lucky that the cloud remained thin until just before maximum. 12.37[CET] locally. The wedge had me completely fooled as to orientation. Maximum should have been a vertical cut from on top.
  9. Very thin, high cloud isn't doing much damage. I am capturing the eclipse in white light using my 90/11 Vixen, Lunt 1.25" wedge and ASI174MM. My Lumix G9 is on my spotting scope for whole disk white light with Baader Solar Foil. Orientation! What's that?
  10. Thin, high cloud. Forecast to thicken for the entire duration of the eclipse. Followed by full clearing to brilliant sunshine 2 seconds after the event. At least I didn't have to get up early to watch the clouds. Fortunately it stayed almost clear until max.
  11. Congratulations on a very fine capture!
  12. Frame rate is a constant battle between exposure, gain and available light. It is easy to see the FPS drop as the exposure setting increases. I try to keep exposure under 10m/s. For solar work this can mean a huge difference in FPS if the proms are overexposed to bring them out. I swap back to a BF with a much higher throughput to avoid long exposures, low frame rate and unwanted gain. I have regularly seen 300+FPS with 640x480 resolution to keep the enlarged prom[s] closely framed.
  13. I use an Intel Core i7 8x 3600[?] ASUS N552 laptop with 16GB RAM with my ASI174MM. Model now discontinued but there must be matching successors. I recently upgraded to internal 1TB Samsung SSDs. It had only a 250GB SSD as purchased. It is noticeably quicker now than with external USB3 Samsung T5 SSDs in several sizes up to 1TB. Averaging ~100fps with 800x600 resolution in SharpCap3.2 yesterday. Faster still with 640x480. The laptop has a large UHD screen but I prefer to use a 27" AOC Hi-res monitor instead.
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