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About tekkydave

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    Sub Dwarf

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    West Yorkshire, UK
  1. That's pretty much how my D-Bot is. The wheels are on diagonally opposite corners. With a heavy bed it's best to use 1mm pitch screws to avoid 'back-driving' when power is removed or z motor(s) de-energised. That's assuming 1 motor per screw. If just 1 motor with screws driven by belt/pulley arrangement then steeper screws may be ok.
  2. Don't know how I missed that
  3. I've thought about doing that myself as I have hardly used the 127Mak I bought ages ago now. What solar scope do you have?
  4. A Happy Christmas to all out there especially those on their own. On my second sherry here already and there's a nice bottle of rosé in the fridge for dinner. That's 'Dinner' not 'Luch' as we're in sunny Yorkshire. And it is sunny for a change
  5. I've also been trying to design a better extruder carrier with built-in piezo module. My existing one has a 27mm piezo disc set in a slot between the motor and extruder. It has to be pierced to allow the motor shaft to pass through and relies on a 'hinge effect' to compress the piezo. I want to create a better design using a Precision Piezo Andromeda module. These are mainly for underbed use but can be used in any application where the ends are fixed and the centre is flexed. I designed a new motor carrier with slotted mounting holes so it can move up/down when the nozzle makes contact with the bed. The Andromeda sits across the gap at the top with an M3 screw projecting up slightly. This makes contact with the part above flexing the module. It works ok but not very smoothly and there is some scope for the moving motor carrier to rock as well as move up/down. I planned to put 4 springs in the holes in the top but don't have any suitable. I have ordered some MR63ZZ 3x6x2.5mm bearings to see if I can restrict the movement to vertical only. The prototype showing the location of the piezo module and slotted mounting holes:
  6. I bought a 60mm Noctua fan for the 24V 15A PSU to quieten it down a bit. It is 25mm thick so won't fit inside the case. So I fitted it to the outside with a 60x60mm wire guard (not fitted in this pic). I had to cut out the hole in the case to improve the air flow. I already had a 20 ohm wirewound variable resistor in series with the old fan so I left it installed. Even on full speed the new fan is much quieter but reducing the speed down makes it silent. I'm only drawing a few amps so it doesn't need much cooling. I also changed the Noctua 40x10mm fan on the extruder heatsink to the 40x20mm model. The 40x10 wasn't cooling the heatsink as much as I would like - it was warm to the touch. The 40x20 is just as quiet but has a higher static pressure - keeps the heatsink cold.
  7. I redesigned the top & bottom block holders to eliminate the spacers. I've also fitted a new hotend fan. This Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX fan is almos silent. It's the same fan as supplied with the Titan Aero Gold. Now the loudest thing is the PSU fan. I think I'll get a 60mm Noctua fan for that too
  8. I have managed to get it all fitted together and working. There is a small issue with the front & back panels not sitting flush with the end panels. I needed to put some shims in temporarily to get it all fitting. I'll make some alterations in due course. The cable relief and piezo pcb mounting are also temporary.
  9. All the nuts & threaded inserts fitted with the help of my hot air gun. Also fitted the x endstop.
  10. A quick mock-up this morning to check the parts take the existing extruder assembly (motor/motor holder/extruder/piezo). Looks like a perfect fit. Now ready for those rails I need to do a spell of nut insertions first (ooeerr )
  11. I have been beavering away for the best part of a week designing a new x carriage for the D-Bot. This will allow me to use the same linear rails as I used on the y-axis. There will be rails top & bottom even though my design is balanced with the motor below the 2040 extrusion. I have designed it to re-use some parts of my existing carriage such as the motor holder which also contains the piezo sensor. It also re-uses the belt clamps. I have based the design on the existing carriage which is the Re-X-Carriage by NickRimmer and modified where necessary. I will probably lose about 20mm of z travel but that's not an issue. The D-Bot will go to 300mm in z but I never print anything that high. Here are the designs from FreeCAD. Front view: And the Rear View: The small PCB on top is the Precision Piezo Universal PCB which eventually will have a small cover. The yellow part is the existing motor holder / piezo sensor. The Titan Aero bolts to the front of it. I should be able to just take this intact from my existing carriage and insert it into the new one The only parts I need to print are the front & back panels (blue) and the top & bottom block holders (green). I have also added some extra holes on the front panel to take a cable relief (currently being designed) and a filament guide. I may change the filament guide into a filament motion sensor at some point in the future. The parts are printing at the moment...
  12. I've just ordered another 2 for the D-Bot x-axis
  13. I discovered the easy way to install these is to put M3x8mm bolts through 4 of the holes with proper t-nuts attached (not square nuts). You can then just align the nuts and push it onto the V-slot. Turning the M3 bolts will then turn and tighten up the nuts.
  14. Yes, I think you're right; the x carriage needs sliders above & below. There is no adjustment built into the rails/sliders themselves. I'm currently using the Re-X Carriage by NickRimmer which is designed for the D-Bot & Titan Aero. I also use this alternative motor mount to hold my piezo device. There isn't a rails version of this so I will have to design my own. Could be an interesting FreeCAD project. I'm gradually getting more proficient
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