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tekkydave

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About tekkydave

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    Sub Dwarf

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Yorkshire, UK
  1. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    Ha ha, don't worry I do that myself
  2. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    Shouldn't drive 0 be connected to the LH motor? Not sure it would make any difference, though. Moving either motor by hand should move the carriage diagonally. Also check the order of the wires on the connectors. I had to switch the red & blue before using motors on the Duet which were wired for RAMPS. If you were using them on Duet before then probably ok.
  3. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    Quite agree, Gina. My current D-Bot consumed most of my Prusa when I first built it.
  4. tekkydave

    3D Printers

    I seem to be collecting crimping tools. I have one for RJ11/12/45, one for 1/4" spade type, one for duponts and recently bought one for JST connectors.
  5. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    I've used JST-SM Plugs & Sockets for extruder motor, hotend & part fans and JST-RCY for the hotend heater circuit.
  6. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    I got my Duex2 for £42.50 + vat (£51). At the time (Sept 2018) they had a special offer running.
  7. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    It's a good point but the Duex also adds lots of extra i/o which may or may not be useful. It has onboard 12v regulator which allows me to have a mix of 24v and 12v devices without resorting to buck converters etc.
  8. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    I found by previous mistakes that it is best to use the screws to maintain the plane of the bed and the z-axis wheels just need to keep it constrained in the x-y plane. My first iteration of the D-Bot relied on the wheels to keep the bed level. They were not very good at it
  9. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    +1 for the 1-start screws. Gives very fine z resolution.
  10. tekkydave

    "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

    I would strongly recommend having 3 leadscrews each driven by it's own motor. I use this method on my D-Bot and the bed is rock solid. If you are planning on using the Duet then get the Duex2 Or Duex5 expansion board to give you sufficient drivers. You can also make the bed self-level itself https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors.
  11. tekkydave

    3D Printers

    Wow! Yes I remember. It wasn't long before E3D stole the name for their extruder Thanks, Gina
  12. tekkydave

    3D Printers

    The first thing that dropped into my head when I thought of large/powerful with beauty/finesse was "Concorde"
  13. tekkydave

    D-Bot 3D Printer

    I have swapped the flexible couplers on my three z axis steppers for these plum (or spider) couplings The motors are a lot quieter now and I can achieve a much higher speed on the z axis. Previously I couldnt get above about 5mm/s without binding & stalling. Now I can get 10mm/s and more. I have set the max speed at 10mm/s (600mm/min) as any faster is probably putting undue stress on the steppers. I have 1mm pitch leadscrews so 600mm/min is equivalent to 600RPM.
  14. tekkydave

    D-Bot 3D Printer

    The Aero has performed ok so far <touches wood> but I haven't done any particularly long prints. Are you using 1.75 or 3mm filament?
  15. tekkydave

    D-Bot 3D Printer

    Are you bowden or direct & what length retraction. I generally use 1mm for PLA and 2.5mm for PETG.
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