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tekkydave

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About tekkydave

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    Sub Dwarf

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Yorkshire, UK
  1. I'm getting more proficient with FreeCAD and have designed several parts so far. I'm mostly using the Part Design workbench. It's the closest to what I previously used which was Sketchup. I do get occasional crashes so saving often is a good idea.
  2. Finished! The print was firmly stuck to the PEI sheet at the end of the print. I couldn't pull it off. Not that I would ever want to do that. Removed the steel sheet from the magnetic build plate and flexed it a few times and.... pop... off it came. The base isn't as shiny as with glass but its still quite a nice satin texture. I'm OK with PEI so far and the magnetic bed. I just don't like the look of the PEI sheet supplied with the kit. I'm going to look for a steel sheet with PEI already applied I think. Black would be nice The part is a hook that sits inside our pull-out rubbish bins in the kitchen in case you were curious Not the best print I've ever done but still getting my Cura settings right.
  3. Printing now. I cleaned the PEI surface with what I normally use for glass :- Soap & warm water PLA seems to be sticking quite happily to the surface so far.... I read online that it is good to rough-up the surface of a new PEI sheet with wire wool prior to first use. Any truth in that PEI fans?
  4. How hot is your nozzle when probing? I have mine at 130 as it is soft enough to squish any filament on the nozzle.
  5. How do you secure the glass to your bed? I have a gap of 20mm on the L & R sides of the glass, 30mm at the back and 10mm at the front. Foldback clips are not suitable. I like glass as a surface but since I increased the size of the bed from 300x300 to 340x340 its become an issue securing it physically.
  6. Because of the size of my bed (340x340mm) it was proving hard to keep it clamped in place. The glass is 300mm square. I now effectively have a magnetic bed so I can try other solutions if not happy with the pei sheet that came with the kit. It is also possible to print directly on the steel sheet so I can flip it over and give that a try.
  7. I thought I would ditch the borosilicate glass and try a magnetic PEI sheet. So I bought one of these I removed my bed from the D-Bot to make it easier to apply and gave the surface a good clean with meths. The first part to apply is the magnetic base which sticks to the metal bed The best method is to score the backing with a sharp knife so the first quarter can be peeled off separately and stuck down. Then clamp it to the bed so it can't slip. Then peel off the last quarter and stick down carefully avoiding any bubbles. Then remove the clamps and stick the remaining three-quarters down The next part is the steel sheet which sticks to the magnetic sheet very well. The small tabs at the front are needed to prise it off the base. There is a yellow PEI sheet to stick to the steel sheet. I followed the same procedure as with the magnetic sheet. There are a few tiny bubbles on the left side of the sheet which I'm hoping will smooth out when I heat it all up. The PEI sheet was slightly larger than the steel sheet by a few mm each side so that was trimmed off. Finally the plate was fixed back to the z-carriage and connected back up to the controller I'll have a go at printing something tomorrow and report back.
  8. Decided to recalibrate my E steps/mm for the Titan Aero. PETG in particular seems to be still over-extruding after the switch from 3mm to 1.75mm filament. I currently have it set to 419 steps/mm which is what E3D recommend as a default for a 1.8deg motor and 16x microstepping. It worked fine with 3mm/2.85mm filament. I removed the hot end parts from the Titan and extruded 100mm of filament - it measured at 104mm. So: New Steps/mm = (419 x 100)/104 = 403 Issued an M92 E403 to the Duet. Tried the above procedue again and got 100.5mm extruded (403 x 100)/100.5 = 401 Put 401 in the M92 command and now it extrudes 100mm every time. I put this down to the diameter of the hob being different for the different sized filaments due to it contacting them in a different part of the profile. Just shows you though - don't just go with the manufacturer's default value - test it yourself
  9. I thought the geometry would be the most likely explanation. Some of the "3mm" filament I had was actually 3mm diameter. I've had 2.85, 2.9, 2.95 and every other value between 2.85 and 3
  10. I thought you were using Sketchup.
  11. Ok, these updates are getting more infrequent. It's not that I'm not doing stuff, just that it's probably not newsworthy. The last few months have been pretty busy as we have had our kitchen done. I'm hoping to spend more time on projects now but we'll see what happens there The only major change I have made to the printer, apart from keeping the Duet software up to date is a complete switch from 3mm to 1.75mm filament. The main issue with 3mm was getting it to load into the Titan Aero easily. The filament path in the Titan is quite 'tight' and the filament often needs to be bent against its natural curl. No problem with PETG as it is naturally more pliable than PLA. But some PLA filament is definitely brittle and I often ended up taking the Titan front cover off to clear out the tiny bits after it had shattered (the filament not the Titan ). The 1.75mm PLA and PETG I have now loads very easily so no more swearing during colour/material changes. One thing I have discovered is that I need to reduce the hot end temperature for 1.75mm filament. For example I have some 3mm and 1.75mm REAL PETG. The 3mm prints best at 250C but the 1.75mm at 240C. Maybe the 1.75mm can heat up quicker in a narrower melt zone or it could be any number of things: The 1.75mm is physically different to the 3mm filament despite being the same Supplier & Brand. The hotend thermistor was replaced at the same time so maybe reporting a different temperature. Something else I haven't considered. I wonder if anyone else has noticed this effect or is it just a quirk of the filament. I've also decided to learn a different CAD package. I have been happy using Sketchup for the last 5 years despite the bad press it gets. It has served me well personally and I will still need to use it from time to time for editing existing models. I don't use a Windows PC which restricts me to the older 2016 version. I run it in a Virtualbox VM and the 2017 version refuses to play ball. Also they will not be releasing any more free versions apart from the 'Sketchup Free' which is web based. I have tried it and it is slooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow.... I tried Fusion 360 but it also only runs on Windoze so was much slower than SU in the same VM. So I have started learning FreeCad which runs on the Ubuntu Linux I use on my main PC. It works a bit differently to SU but after following an online tutorial and playing around for a couple of hours it is quick to pick up. It is also truly FREE being open source. It seems to have more modelling features than SU and doesn't need loads of add-ons installing just to export to STL or add a fillet/chamfer. All my 3D printing workflow is now Linux based: FreeCad --> Cura --> Duet Web Control (browser-based).
  12. If it helps at all I bought This VA panel meter and worked out the following wiring scheme. The included instructions were very poor.
  13. This is a good step-up converter. I used one in my now defunct prusa 3d printer to provide 12V to the extruder fan from the ATX PSU 5VSB line.
  14. In case anyone is unaware of AppImage and how it works see this explanation.
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