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Astro-Geek

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About Astro-Geek

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  1. Thanks for the further replies, I'll check them all out.
  2. Thanks for the reply Craig. The river is fairly close, about half a mile away, but it's a fairly narrow waterway and 20 miles from the Sea. I did wonder whether the repeated fogging might be detrimental to the coating. I'd also considered silica gel dessicant, but even though it's a retracted flextube, it's still the same volume as a small dustbin. The Pod is cleverly designed to combat condensation by means of ample ventilation, with a 1 inch airgap all round the dome edge that still safely sheds rainwater. It is possible to seal it with removeable foam "backer" strip, but the
  3. I have Skywatcher flextube 300mm Newtonian that I'm thinking needs resilvering. When I bought it secondhand a couple of years ago, the primary was quite "dusty and misty". I carefully cleaned it using methods I'd read on here, in a bowl of water with a few drops of washing up liquid, and carefully pulling cotton wool balls across it under the surface of the water, then rinsing with distilled water. I was very pleased with the result, it looked like new. I placed a new centre marker and it performed very well. I've had a bit of break in observing this year, and the scope sat in my
  4. Sorry everyone.... It must be me, I'm the Jonah. In the past two years my interest in Astonomy was revived dramatically after a thirty year break, and I set up a permanent Pod observatory and all the toys that go with it. (SWMBO's definition of my purchases.) I can't help it, the range of fairly affordable equipment is fantastic now, compared to back in the 70's.... I must admit I was surprised at the comparitive rarity of "good seeing conditions", or even just clear 'ish skies. However, there's no danger of me giving up, because I'm fortunate to have retired to a very rural
  5. Absolutely no need for apologies Steve. They were very small bags, (as the dessicant cap easily holds three of them), so I should have done it in 30 second bursts max. As I say my microwave is a really cheapo Tesco one, £29.99 about 10 years ago ! Its simple method of defrosting seems to alternate full power with intervals of fan only.
  6. Thanks for the very prompt and helpful replies. I tried three of them in my microwave on the defrost setting, but even though I tried for just two minutes initially that was to fast unfortunately. To be honest my microwave is a very cheap affair, with no variable power settings for defrost, so my fault. The three bags got very hot and two burst open, though the cystals had become a nice bright yellow. On reflection I think I should have tried just 30 seconds at a time, with intervals to cool down. No worries though, I still have spares from the original kit, and I'll k
  7. Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but I have the Flo Dessicant cap and wondered about other ways of drying the crystals out for re-use. The instructions only mention placing the packs on a radiator, but that's tricky in the Summer (even British Summers ! ) I was wondering if they could be dried in a microwave as well ? I searched on line and that seems ok for the crystals that go from blue to pink, but I couldn't find any reference to these ones that go from yellow to dark green. Also, the three "tea bags" that fit in my cap may be too little in the microwave, so I was th
  8. Well I didn't slink quietly away, it turned out to be quite successful, ( the mark two version anyhow ) My generic unbranded cheapo manual filter wheel was ideal for the conversion because it had just enough area around the front T mount opening to accomodate the larger EOS lens mount ring donated from an extension tube. I cut the hole very carefully and incorporated the original spring loaded latch. In order to get it thin enough to give me enough backfocus with my Altair 1600M (17.5mm), leaving just 26.5mm max from the EOS's 44mm BF), I had to mill the centre framework thinner by
  9. Surprisingly enough, strong cardboard boxes are quite reasonably priced from Amazon up to a certain size, (like for your 150). https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=double+wall+cardboard+box&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 I did check a while ago for your 250 though, and they're much more difficult to source....
  10. Thanks for the kind compliment Marmo. They're just what the doctor ordered for my newly modified manual filter wheel, (with an EOS lens mount). Perfect also because of my (also) newly acquired Altair 1600M, the camera with the big sensor coupled with 17.5mm of backfocus. I was getting very slight vignetting with 1.25 inch mounted filters, so these 31mm unmounted should be just the ticket....
  11. Been there, done that, got the T Shirt.... I'll be cutting the hole in the filter wheel faceplate very carefully with my metal scrollsaw, (very slowllllly). It's fortunate that the Eos lens plates are readilly and cheaply available, that precision would be way beyond me......
  12. Thanks for confirming it Guy. I'd scoured the Internet and hadn't found any other than that expensive TS drawer system. I've marked out my cheapo wheel and will start cutting the hole this afternoon.... I'll post the result on here, (if successful), and if not, I'll slink quietly away....
  13. I found this thread in an online search, where Guy has modified a manual filter wheel in a way that I'd been thinking about. The problem it overcomes is to be able to attach Canon Eos lenses to Mono T2 astro cameras with a backfocus of 17.5mm. The Eos camera mounting has a standard backfocus of 44mm, from the front plate, (and therefore the back flange of Eos lenses) to the CCD sensor. So 44mm minus 17.5mm gives 26.5mm maximum thickness for the wheel and EOS adapter. I already have the Geoptik T2 to Eos adapter, but that is already 19mm thick, and I haven't found any filte
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