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Skipper Billy

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About Skipper Billy

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf
  • Birthday 08/04/59

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy
    Radio Control aircraft and helicopters
    Classic Cars
    Sailing
  • Location
    Western Scottish Highlands

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  1. I emailed ES in Germany and they confirmed that the spacing distance should be measured from face A as shown in the top photo - just posting in case anyone comes across this thread looking for the answer to this question.
  2. The cooler can only do about 23º delta - the room temp was about 15º and it was struggling to hit -10º I think I will pop it in a cool box and see if that helps.
  3. Thanks guys The actual temp was -10º according to the FITS header. I think I am worrying about nothing. This forthcoming season I am going to have a go at not using darks - but wanted to be prepared just in case! Thanks everyone.
  4. Steve - 600 secs at minus 10º
  5. Just dusting everything off ready for when darkness returns in a few weeks. Making a new library of darks with an Atik 460EX mono - metal dust cap screwed on to the camera. Decided to massively stretch a dark frame to have a look and its got a shocking top to bottom gradient! Is that normal ?? It was taken in a brightly lit room but with a metal dust cap on it. Thanks in advance.
  6. I am setting up an Explore Scientific HR Coma Corrector and the manual states 55mm back focus but doesn't say where from ! Would you say its from face A in the first photo or face B in the second photo ?? There is a 3mm difference when the adapter is screwed on. Thanks in advance.
  7. That's a cracker. Many thanks for sharing the (epic!) build log - I am sure many will gain much from it if they are contemplating similar. Well done and may you derive great pleasure from it!
  8. I had a 6" RC on an ADM side by side with an ST80 for guiding plus an Atik 460 and an Atik EFW2 - I had to add 1.5kgs at the front of the scope to get the CofG into a sensible place. I guess weight wise it would be similar to your proposal. My HEQ5 (Orion Sirius) handled it well but it was tuned to within an inch of its life - belt mod - all bearings replaced with high quality ones from FAG/SKF and many hours tuning out any backlash and permanently mounted on 2700 kgs of concrete! I guess it would work but it wont be easy aand you certainly wont be 'overmounted'! This was my set up - first half dozen or so images on this page - https://www.flickr.com/photos/113316085@N05/albums/72157663274320360
  9. Does it HAVE to roll off - would 'German' hinges do it for you? Easier to make! https://sites.google.com/view/astro-imaging/micro-observatory
  10. I have no experience with Maks but the flocking paper is self adhesive so it will stay in place - you can reposition it many times but once its pressed down firmly after about 20 mins its really stuck down!
  11. Are you sure you got the polarity right?
  12. Its not bad - there is no discernible wobble even wound all the way out but there is a lot of backlash in the mechanism - it could probably be adjusted out but I have a spare Moonlite stepper motor....
  13. PS - I did do the other half !!!
  14. That's what I thought - it was in pieces in any case to fit a Moonlite focuser so whist I am waiting for a custom flange from Moonlite in the USA I thought I would make the effort - can't hurt can it !!
  15. So what do you do when your new scope arrives? Take it to bits of course! . Not an easy task lining the inside of a long tube with strips of sticky backed fabric and not getting any creases, air bubbles or overlaps!! Its worth it though - I hope you can tell which half has been completed!