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Skipper Billy

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About Skipper Billy

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    Brown Dwarf

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  • Interests
    Radio Control aircraft and helicopters
    Classic Cars
  • Location
    Western Scottish Highlands
  1. Aaaaargh - you just spoiled my day by mentioning the RC that I had !!!! The very mention makes my blood run cold Happy to run images through CCD for you as often as you wish - just PM me and I will give you my email address to save cluttering up the forum. Good luck! David
  2. CCD Inspector suggests that your focus is good and that you have a fairly flat image suggesting that your spacing is good. It also reports that the likely problem is straightforward collimation.
  3. Welcome to SGL. Cracking wee scope. The light nights gives you time to make a light shroud for it out of a yoga mat etc and the fettle the focuser by adding a few wraps of PTFE Plumbers tape around the threads of the focuser to remove any slop and give a nice smooth action. Enjoy it! Mine is my most used scope.
  4. I have used the Atik EFW1 (no longer made) EFW2 and currently EFW3 with 7 x 2" filters - all of them have performed flawlessly.
  5. Canon 1100D and a Samyang 14mm for the Aurora and same camera and a 400mm lens for the moon.
  6. These were taken with a standard off the shelf Canon DSLR - not modified. A modified camera could have been used - the moon picture would probably look sharper and the Aurora just the same. The 300 rule still applies whether the camera is modified or not. Ευχαριστώ
  7. There is a thing called the rule of 300 for cropped sensors. (Rule of 500 for 'full frame' cameras) Divide 300 by the focal length of your lens and that gives you the maximum exposure time you can use without getting too much star trailing. EG a 14mm lens on a crop frame sensor = 300/14 = 21 seconds exposure When you start looking at telephone lenses it drops rapidly. EG 1 200mm lens on a crop frame sensor - 300/200= 1.5 seconds With a long lens on a fixed tripod the sun (WITH A SOLAR FILTER!) is a good target and there is always the Moon. The advice that Carole gave you is good quality advice and is maybe worth a second read. You don't say where you live - if its well North the Aurora is also a target. These image were taken with a simple DSLR on a fixed tripod IE nothing fancy. But you will soon want some form of tracking mount.
  8. I am no expert but it certainly doesn't look right to me. This is what I get from the same scope - I am really not into pixel peeping and this is just a Jpeg but to my old eyes it looks like it should look and I dont see the same problem that you have Ken. Good luck - I hope you get it resolved.
  9. These are the things I was thinking of. They are about 52mm long and the hole centre is 32mm up from the base. The downside is they are a tenner each (£7 to you).
  10. Or add a weight to the front? I had to add 7kgs to the front to get a sensible balance point. Different scope but same principle.
  11. I am used to that - no-one has ever thought my images are as good as I think they are!! I am keeping my eyes open for a Spyder5 Pro then at least I cant blame screen calibration.
  12. Thanks Alan and Julian I will have a play!
  13. Thanks Alan Its my two monitors hooked up to my main PC that i use for image editing that really need doing - I will have a look to see if they have seperate profiles. They are identical monitors but an image viewed on one then the other are considerably different. I couldn't find any info on whether or not the Spyder system can handle two monitors on one graphics card.
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