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About petejw

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    Carmarthhenshire UK
  1. Annoying thing is the telescope dialog has slew and sync buttons,would be nice if they worked for my setup. Hopefully something will turn up for stellarium to connect to a remote scope through ascom. Perhaps a service that runs on the remote computer, ascomscope ? Erm...
  2. I'm having similar problems as Vega, Cannot Sync from Stellarium. I'm running Stellariumscope remotely on the pc connected to the scope (EQMOD) and running Stellarium locally. Used to have the same three options (using the three different ports) as described by Vega but now have only Slew and Sync. problem is Sync doesnt work. I am assuming that the new Ascom option doesnt support remote scope operation or am I missing something. Anyone out there had any success with a similar set up?
  3. Thanks for the thoughts everyone. I went for the brix 2807 with 8gb memory 240 GB SSD and running Windows 7. I installed all of the software but found that stellarium maxed out the cpu. However, I discovered that I could run stellarium on my laptop in the house and use it to control the scope remotely. Happily it is all running smoothly and very happy with the solution. Anyone know when it's going to stop raining?
  4. Thanks both, really useful information. Did you go for HDD or SSD and what size ? My plan is 240GB SSD which, I think, should be more than enough.
  5. Im looking to buy a mini pc for running astrophotography on my scope. I want to run stellarium, apt, ascom and connecting an heq5 scope and canon dslr camera. The pc will be controlled by remote desktop over wired ethernet and any images will be transferred to my main laptop for processing. Quite a few people seem to be using a gigabyte brix 2807 and I would be interested in hearing from anyone who uses one of these or something similar and has a similar setup to what I am planning. Is the 2807 sufficiently powerful to run my planned setup will I need something more powerful
  6. Thanks for info everyone, I had planned for future expansion by building a 300 mm diameter pier but hadn't given any thought of different pier adapter if I upgraded the scope. I can also see the advantage of being able to easily tweak the height of the pier if needed. I don't plan to do visuals directly from the scope either. The plan is to run by remote from the house. Anthony, How far is your run from the workshop to the scope are you using usb or ethernet - my scope is going to be about 40 meters from the house which is too far for usb, I am ok for power but haven't decided whether to run a long ethernet cable or a wireless solution. Probably going to have a small laptop or PC at the scope end
  7. Hi Anthony Interesting pictures, what height is your kit say from the bottom of the pier to the bottom of the mount? I'm looking at about 1 meter for mine and was going to attach power, usb etc to the front of the pier. I wasn't planning on anything between the top of the pier and the bottom of the mount, just the brake discs. I am trying to understand why people use the threaded bolts. Is it just to gain the extra height? I am worried that if go with my planned design I will be missing something. Cheers Pete
  8. Just building my pier adapter for my HEQ5 Mount. Ive see a lot of discussions about avoiding the "rat cage" and the need to keep any bolts between the top of the pier and the mount as short as possible. I've also seen discussions about whether it is necessary to ensure that the top of the pier is level. I've attached a picture of my current pier head build which used a couple of brake discs. The top disc is bolted to the mount using a 10mm bolt and the bottom plate is bolted to pier. the two discs are then bolted together. Is this design workable? I think I must be missing something as I cannot see any need for a rat cage in the first place if it is not necessary to level the top of the pier or the mount is not being removed from the pier regularly.
  9. Thanks for the link. Still in the pondering stage so this info will come in useful. I am thinking of remote operation and have recently come accross some sheds that not only slide the roof but part of the walls too and think that may be a good option for me.
  10. Thanks everyone, given me something to think about. I didn't realise that the roll off roof was such a big difference in cost but there are obviously advantages. Going to have to get the tape out again and see exactly what I can come up with. I may be able to get away with sliding the roof off over some raised borders next to my planned site.
  11. Thanks for the thoughts everyone. I don't have a huge amount of room, I have a good southern view and will just about be able to polar align over an 7ft hedge to the north I was thinking of something about 4 foot Square and about 5 foot high and about 4 ft from the hedge. I don't plan to do any viewing at the equipment so I don't think I will need a warm room. Observing/imaging will just be remotely from the house but David makes a good point about future upgrades. Protection from winds is another good point. Doesnt the height of the wall on the roll off roof method restrict viewing or is this below the good visibility level anyway?
  12. I am about to set up a permanent site for my equipment. Skywatcher 200pds on HEQ5 on a concrete pier. It going to be for astrophotography and it will be controlled from the comfort of my front room. I am unsure of the best option for the shed. What are the pros and cons of roll off roof vs roll off shed. Can anyone offer any advice or their thoughts on the best route. Thanks
  13. Well, what a pallaver. Finally got the collimation looking ok, took the spider out and checked the focusser alignment, decided seeing as I had gone that far and weather was rubbish i'd take the OTA apart and nip down to Wilko and get some flocking. It took my son and I about 1 1/2 hours to apply it and I must admit, it looks great. Put the OTA back together adjusted the collimation bolts and finally got it looking OK. Photo, all yellow stripes are same length, blue circle is photoshopped onto image to check "circle" of secondary mirror seen through eyepiece. The secondary can just be seen showing around the edge of the blue circle. The focusser alignment incidentally was OK, unfortunately by the time I'd picked up Ricochet's post on the potential rotational issue, I'd already removed the spider and secondary, but I think it was this tip that allowed me to collimate in the end. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and thanks to various guides and tips on this site regarding the flocking, it couldnt have gone smoother. Off topic, but here is the flocked scope, now waiting for some clear skies so I can do some star test. Pete
  14. If I adjust the secondary screws and move the mirror as you suggest, wont the second part of collimation, where I align the secondary mirror with the main, put it out again?
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