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About SimM

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    Star Forming

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    Hampshire UK

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  1. Does the LS60 allow the modular scope to be rotated independently of the collar and the internal etalon? So (now) no longer a need for a “rotation device” for the front etalon? What does “clocking” achieve?
  2. @Minhlead - Sorry to hear that it didn't work out with the Quark. Getting a refund was probably a very good outcome even if you are a little out of pocket. My experience with a Quark also wasn't good. Ordered from a reputable UK Dealer, product was delivered and looked to be well made. At the beginning of January there was too many clouds to get outside but I did try the supplied PSU and the Quark - seemed to heat up in about 8 minutes and switch bands in 6 minutes. There was however an issue with the unit - pick it up and you get the impression that it is vibrating. It turns ou
  3. It is certainly not a reason to change what you know works - "if it ain't broke - don't change it". Sort of "chicken and egg" as well, as there are not many users to get opinions about it, to get interested in it. The "gimmickry" is OK, but I can see that many astronomers will probably be already starting with some existing equipment, anyway. Simon
  4. Thanks Steve for the cutaway diagram. See the mods to the LSMT60. They use the same red front-mounted 60mm clear etalon as the outgoing LS60THa. The scope is 420mm f/7 with ED doublet FPL-51 replacing the single objective and not coloured. As a normal scope it's 420mm f/6 (uses full 70mm objective). It's anyone's guess if they improved (or cost reduced) the scope. Claim is < 0.65A or < 0.45A. So, at least there is one front mounted-etalon in DS configuration (a good thing?). Simon
  5. This is the result of stacking a video of images? What you see with an EP doesn't compare to it? OR does your eye only capture the good moments (or probably averages it and sees it as worse?).
  6. I have started using Affinity and I couldn't understand why changing colours had no effect - until I switched to a colour space! It was the same first time a tried to use a toaster - so much more fun when plugged in - LOL. I did find the prominences look good against mid grey background but the reddish background makes a "powerful" statement in your coloured image. Simon
  7. Lovely image. Do you "tweak" every image with moving sliders on a curves dialog or do you have some kind of preset that you use? Is the colour around the sun achieved with the same "tweak" or is it different on the outside? It must be different because the starting point is shades of mono and all are in the inner part too? For a "natural look" would you be aiming to not have the outside totally black e.g. grey or something else shows up the prominences?
  8. Is the blocking filter operating like an ordinary 1.25" filter that you might put next to a ZWO sensor (except it blocks and is smaller e.g. B600 is 6mm and B1200 is 12mm diameter)? Is it after the diagonal on the EP side? Tracking an object accurately for a reasonable time isn't so hard with an equatorial mount, even when only roughly aligned as would be the case in the daytime (from trying a solar wedge for WL). So, to use the example image from above, the sun is 4.2mm and the sensor is 4.9mm x 7mm. A blocking filter that is not close to the camera sensor and that is only 6mm seems
  9. An astronomy scope is designed to do one thing well, focus at infinity. Anything else is a bonus. Spotting scopes are more like other optical instruments... so, camera lenses, binoculars and other optical instruments are designed to focus at roughly 10x the focal length to infinity. That's a compromise that isn't needed for astronomy. You can see other compromises e.g. an SLR has to allow a mirror to flip up and down, so the design of the optics becomes much more difficult e.g. a wide angle lense has to have elements to overcome these difficulties. Zoom lenses are another compromise where
  10. Unless the mirror is very old, it won't be silvered. It is more likely that it is aluminised and there will be a hard overcoat to protect it, so not easily damaged.
  11. How good is a William Optics Gran Turismo GT 102 Triplet Refractor with a WO x0.8 Reducer Flattener 7A for AP?
  12. If you are going to put a PSU in a drybox, then it makes sense to put all the mains plugs and sockets in the drybox as well e.g. no point in the PSU being dry if the plug is in an extension reel that is outside.
  13. Same issue, might happen on any scope/rings combination? Point to the zenith and it immediately starts to slip. Adding a 2cm width of A4 paper between either ring and the scope, adds little to the overall diameter, but shows that little additional friction is required to prevent the scope sliding. It's not a permanent solution.
  14. I would like a pier and even an observatory in the future. For now it's a (more) stable base than just the lawn and a repeatable position (like on a decent patio). I'm probably not going to want to leave the mount outside, so it's inevitable that polar alignment will have to be redone. I can do a Polemaster + 1 star alignment quite quickly. MOT is good "stuff" and I just want a firm base and a location to do a quick alignment tweak. At least if I did eventually go down the pier route, then I will have verified the location. An observatory is also a longshot e.g. unlikely.
  15. A Reducer that is 0.65x is more "difficult" to get right than a more modest 0.8x and the image circle is reduced e.g. 0.65x X 43mm vs 0.8 X 43mm vs 43mm (not reduced), so a Reducer is not a "magic" panacea. Cropping the image is both wasteful of the camera sensor and cropping an already smaller FOV is limiting and wasteful, considering the starting size of aperture. So I see it as an additional and very useful addition for 120/150 owners. 100's are a good match for your EQ6 sized mount for AP, so there is something for everyone.
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