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About SimM

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    Star Forming

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    Hampshire UK
  1. 127 SLT has been “converted” to be an equatorial mount using a homemade wedge and the HC can be firmware updated to allow for this - if you are brave enough. 6SE and 8SE have the same mount and there is a smaller mount for 4SE and 5SE. If it bothers you, you can see the internals of the SE mount and Evolution mounts by looking at the forums. Settle time on SE is probably longer than the Evolution and the latter has clutches as well as obvious internals like battery and WiFi. If you are in the market for an SCT then the same OTA are sold as C6 SLT, SE or Evolution or as XLT with only the colour of the OTA being different and the position of the dovetail being on LHS, underneath or on RHS. This creates a market for Dealers who break up kits and sell OTA separately e.g. Grovers do this with 6 SLT for folks who want to put it on an equatorial mount - where the dovetail is makes no difference and the OTA will turn over as you pass thru’ the meridian anyway. The Sky At Night Magazine did a review of the C6 SLT commenting that it was a cheap way of getting the Celestron OTA. Even cheaper without the mount. One disadvantage of the Alt/Az SE and Evolution mounts is that they can’t be repurposed to carry a refractor or Newtonian. Shape of SLT does allow this? One comment was about the SLT tripod being too short to use without extending it but too flimsy with it extended, so one area where cost was clawed back perhaps? I wouldn’t write off the C6 as being inferior to C8 as they are simply different and each has followers. Some users would see the C6 as quite desirable. FL is a very reasonable 1500mm. So lots to think about? Simon
  2. Agreed. I changed the wording to say EXACTLY 0 up. The PS Align Pro App has a tip for setting up the polar scope. They suggest using the side of a building to set the up/down EXACTLY vertical e.g. with the tripod levelled. Move the RA until the selected quadrant Is moving up/down a vertical “reference” e.g. a side/corner of a building. On my EQ6-R Pro there are two locks on the RA axis which allow the RA setting circle to be locked e.g. at 0 against the pointer on the LHS of the mount below the handle. Later on the mount can be setup and set EXACTLY back to zero. This works only because the RA setting circle is locked to the internals of the mount. If the RA is driven by the HC it doesn’t track RA movement. You might expect the RA setting circle to reflect changes in RA in all cases. On the HEQ5 PRO, the lock was on the mount so the setting circle could be locked, but it didn’t track RA movement either manually or when driven, so YMMV. Simon
  3. As James correctly said, the counterweight isn't counted towards the load capacity of the mount. It isn't just about the weight. Two factors to consider are the total weight (excluding the counterweight) and also where it is located e.g. Mass * Radius * Radius. It is easier for the motor to guide/rotate if the weight is closer to the point of rotation. So given a choice of weights hanging off the end and more closer to the point of rotation the latter is preferable. Hanging a guide scope outside of a main scope is an example of adding weight in the wrong place - problem is that it's not easy to do something better. Simon
  4. I had a reply from FLO. The cable is 5.5 x 2.1 jack plugs male to male but with a twist - the coupler holds them on e.g. to some mounts. So not what I wanted... I have noticed that most regulated PSU have typically: Mains cable that plugs into the PSU brick; PSU regulated to provide 12V - I have one that provides 12V @ 6A and is rated 80W; Lead to a plug e.g. a 5.5 x 2.1 male plug - suitable for a SkyWatcher or similar mount (+ve 12v) or a ZWO or QHY dedicated astro camera. My mount requires a GX12-2 connector which is a screwed on 2 pin connector. It's a reliable system connection and I can buy a FLO cable that provides 5.5 x 2.1 to GX12-2 (ordered). For my astro camera - a ZWO OSC camera I have the same PSU - the idea was to separate one PSU for the mount and one for the camera cooling and USB Hub. What I have noticed is that many of these PSU "bricks" have a long cable from the mains but have a limited length from the brick to the camera or mount. A length of 1m or 110cm seems quite long until you realise it's connected to a rotating equatorial mount. So an extension is required... FLO make a 1m cable but it's 5.5 x 2.1 male - male e.g. it's not suitable as an extension. Without an extension it's still possible to connect up a PSU, but the short cable rquires careful positioning of the PSU "brick". I found I couldn't put the PSU on the tripod spreader and also connect it to the camera on the back of my scope. In the end I ended up hanging in a bag (the handbag) from an Azimuth bolt - so far from ideal. A better solution is to keep the cables loose and free. A 1m extension will make all the difference. Of course, a cable will have to: Keep going in cold weather so needs to be flexible; Have a reliable connections; Not have too much resistance to drive a mount without too much voltage drop. At the moment FLO are evaluating creating such a product. The ideal location for a PSU is not on the rotating parts of a mount, and ideally also not on the mount. The cigarette to mount cables are usually much longer e.g. 1.8m long - so no problem to keep them safely on the floor - protected but with maximum access to a scope. Thoughts? Simon
  5. Not sure there is a problem: Get the Polar Angle - I use PS Align Pro App e.g. a value of 03:01 on a clock; Align the Decl. Axis so that you can see through the polar scope; Rotate the RA Axis so that the clock is EXACTLY 0 up; Adjust position of Polaris to be (on "2020 ring") in the middle circle at 03:01 e.g. on the RHS in the Polar Scope. NB If you have set the location and time/date correctly set then the Hand Controller will also show the same clock setting e.g. 03:01. There is no requirement for the clock to be at 0 if 3, 6 or 9 happens to be more convenient e.g. 03:01 is still on the RHS. If it helps, you can ignore the 0, 3, 6, 9 - like many watches/clocks, you don't need the "numbers" to know the time. You can verify that it's correct by using an App like Sky Safari. For the same location and time/date and facing North, look at the NCP. Providing you have the view "reversed", you will see that Polaris is indeed at 03:01 on a clock. The image you see in the Polar Scope is also "reversed" as you would expect in a Refractor (no diagonal). Simon
  6. I have EdgeHD 800 with BP Hyperion 17mm EP and love the edge to edge definition and sharpness. The AFOV is 68 degree. Baader Planetarium Morpheous 17.5mm EP has a slightly wider FOV - not much more. The AFOV is 76 degrees. Morpheous would only be an advantage for a short F/5 or less setup. At F/10 (or F/7 with the Reducer) both will work very well. Not everyone can accommodate very wide AFOV EP - it's like looking around (into) the corners e.g. can't take it all in. Simon
  7. I too have a new EQ6-R PRO and I have read through all 17 pages of this topic with interest. I had a Sky-Watcher HEQ5 PRO and noticed that the RA Setting Circle does not behave as expected e.g. it's either locked at 0, or clamped but doesn't indicate RA. The dealer said it was mostly "cosmetic" e.g. not a fault. Now that I have the EQ6-R PRO I notice that the locking screw is moved from the mount to the Setting Circle and the manual does refer to it as a Setting Circle and not a Polar Alignment Aid (HEQ5). With both screws locked down, when I move the RA with the clutches "unlocked" it does move and does indicate RA. When I have the clutches "locked" and slew with the HC then it doesn't move with RA. Did I miss something? I'm guessing it depends what it is clamped to internally. So it's better but not perfect. Simon
  8. I noticed that the pin out of the 12V connector has the cut-out on LHS on the panel drawing and on the RHS in the schematic. So the 12V is up for one and down for the other. I was making up a 5.5 x 2.1 connector cable to GX-12 to use an existing PSU - done successfully. But I'm sure many will have been tripped up by this apparent reversal. I used a GX-12 socket to expose the 12v and ground and a multimeter to confirm that both panel and schematic (in their own way) are as expected e.g. using the supplied car adapter I may be buying a conversion cable from FLO - I would still check the pinout before use - mistakes have been known to happen. One issue with electronics is grounding loops - two independent PSU will float and not cause problems with each other. This can be a problem when sharing PSU across several devices if they touch. It's also one of the reasons cars shouldn't touch when giving a jump start. Both PSU pins and the socket are not connected e.g. the chassis is not grounded on the (my) EQ6-r Pro. Simon
  9. My experience of HEQ5 and EQ6-r Pro (two SW mounts only) is that a multimeter will show the output of a PSU open circuit to be regulated e.g. 12.1v. The HC utility -> information -> voltage will show a lower voltage 0.7v lower (drop across a silicon diode inside the mount?) e.g. 11.4v. If you used a car adapter you could also measure the voltage on the battery whilst the mount was in use. Again it will show 12.1v at the battery but only 11.4v in the hand controller. There was a skywatcher fix for the HC voltage readout. So check the firmware and sky watcher website. If a multimeter shows 20v when a PSU isn’t connected then it indicates the PSU isn’t regulated and should be avoided as a power source for the mount (12v RMS is about 20v max e.g. what the voltage is measured). Simon
  10. The cable I need is to extend a PSU (so needs to be male to female) for a Sky Watcher Mount and also a ZWO camera. “Lynx Astro Silicone Power Cable 2.1mm DC Jack to 2.1mm DC Jack with Coupler” Is this a cable to go 5.5 x 2.1 to 5.5 x 2.1 male to female? With a male to male coupler? Simon
  11. Sky-Watcher HEQ5 PRO Go-To Astronomy Mount is now SOLD. Simon
  12. Sky-Watcher HEQ5 PRO Go-To Astronomy Mount is now SOLD. Simon
  13. I have probably spent more time reading the manual than using the mount to collect images! NB the 2 star alignment requires minimal cone error but that's not a precondition for 3 star. A little cryptic, perhaps? Cone error is later in the manual. (two snippets from the manual). Simon
  14. The video is from the main imaging scope? What you see are called "cone errors". They are where any scope is not completely at right angles (perpendicular) to the declination axis - you might think of this as "around" the RA axis. For the main image, you might try rotating the dovetail in the mount 180 degrees - it might seat better? Or swapping the rings front to back. Or putting shims under one/both/most corners of the rings (where the y bolt to the dovetail). However, in the HEQ5 HC there is an alignment to remove the effects of cone error - all scopes will have this to some extent? With a 3 star alignment the extent of cone error is known and compensated for. What you see is independent of where Polaris is in the main scope. To do PA with the polar scope, you don't even need the main scope to be attached? Separately, if the image in the polar scope is also moving, then half the error (which isn't cone error) can be taken away by referring to the manual and carefully centred with three small grub screws. If the clock display isn't at 12 o clock this can also be corrected - but isn't necessary as you already know where 12 o clock is on a clock without numbers? This stuff is in the manual. There is a newer graticule display that's not mentioned in the manual - is on an addendum sheet. Simon
  15. Thanks for the info James, 600 cubed is about 0.22m3 or about 425kg. Can that be right? How many bags of mix did you use? Postcrete or ready to make concrete (about 16ish)? Slightly different, I thought about using a similar volume to make a concrete base the area of my tripod x 200mm to stand on a base of sand. Obviously not permanent as a pier, but a good/bad idea? Simon
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