Phillyo

I got mine from Amazon, these are the ones I got. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JL4HGAI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I ended up stepping mine down to around F3.5 as I found that was a nice compromise between speed and sharpness of the stars. YMMV though.

Ah I thought so. I ended up buying step down rings that screw into the front of the lens to reduce the spikes, but that's personal preference I guess.

Lovely wide image. Was this taken wide open at F2 or stopped down a bit? It looks like there's diffraction spikes on some of the brighter stars.

Just wondering if anyone has seen or heard much about these mounts? I'm particularly interested in the WD17s. It's a servo harmonic drive, unlike the usual belt driven harmonic drives. Considering it as an upgrade to the EQ6-R Pro as it's much smaller and lighter with apparently fantastic tracking capabilities. Phil

If you use pixinsight, use the SubframeSelector tool and check out the SNR change

I use an Antlia ALP-T 5nm dual band filter, but I still prefer to image when the moon is less than 50% because it massively washes out the contrast even with a narrowband filter. I lose a LOT of the OIII emission when the moon is high too, but thank you for your input

Good morning all, So far I have only really done DSO imaging with my Redcat51 and my IMX571c camera, however with the huge moon blotting out the sky during the month (normally when it's clear too) I was wondering if there is a way I could image the moon with my current setup? I also have an ASI120mm mini if that is useful for lunar imaging? Can I buy any kind of barlow or adapter to connect my IMX571c camera to the redcat to give me a little more reach? I know the 571 doesn't have a very high frame rate but I don't really want to spend lots of money just to give something a try. Any advice greatly appreciated. Phil

I always do gradient removal first, then BlurX correct only, plate solve, SPCC, blurx, starx, noisex, GHS etc from there.

Awesome! I'll look forward to reading it if you ever get around to it. Phil

If it's ok with you, I might pick your brain (via DM) regarding your setup at some point in the future. I'll likely try and sort it over summer when I'm not imaging. I assume you've likely posted about it on this topic further back? If so I'll scroll back and see what I can find

Afternoon folks, I'm getting a little tired of the amount of cloud cover we have in the UK, and whilst I love my little Redcat51...at F4.9 compared to the sammy it's a bit slow. So, I'm considering selling the Redcat and just going back to the Samyang lens for a bit and operating it at either F2 or 2.4 etc. to make the most of what (if any) clear skies we do get. I currently use the Antlia ALP-T filter but it's the none fast version and I'm wondering if people know if the fast version from Antlia is still technically the 'best' suited or if anything else is better these days (L-Ultimate, or one of the new quad band filters perhaps?) I'm also considering a second sammy at some point to run a dual rig in the hope I can double the light gathering or run it side by side for a wider FOV. Thanks, Phil.

Sorry that's my mistake. I removed the first two images and just replaced them with the updated version. It looks a bit confusing now I guess 😕

Good morning all, Whenever I use Subframe selector to select the best subs to stack, I choose to output them into a new folder and they're all XISF file format. Then, when I preprocess them the usual way, the resulting image is just black with a few dots. Where am I going wrong? Thanks, Phil.

Another edit of this target, with added ha. Work in progress still!

Here's my attempt. I tried a couple of different colour schemes but quite like this one. This is BlurX on all 3 channels, then combined in NBcolormapper script with a palette I made. Then StarX, a small amount of NoiseX, stretching done with GHS on the starless image then stars separately. I added a touch on saturation with curves then combined the stars and starless image back together again. A small reduction in stars using the StarReduction script in Pixinsight and that's about it really. Absolutely beautiful data to work with! It didn't require a lot of work to be honest. Phil