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Everything posted by tooth_dr
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I decided to give the OAG a go on the 10” scope. I picked this up from the flo clearance section. I also bought a new black fan cover for my QHY9 camera. Testing and setting up focus today. It’s going to be very very tight for inward travel.
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It’s ok to use the finder scope holder if you remove the flexible screw and replace with a regular bolt.
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Please critique my image (M45)
tooth_dr replied to CaptainShiznit's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
I had a quick play with your TIFF file: There is some nebulosity coming through on Merope, good job. I would maybe say that yours is too dark, the focus or collimation is slightly off, and there is some drift. -
The postman delivered some mounting hardware today. I had considered just putting saddles on a losmandy dovetail, but now seeing the two side by side, the proper mounting bar is substantially thicker than the dovetail bar.
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Winter scene
tooth_dr replied to clarkpm4242's topic in Imaging - Widefield, Special Events and Comets
Beautiful, looks incredible -
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Great job! The Atik 383 is performing admirably on that 10" scope
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Hi Martin Glad to hear things are heading the right direction. There is a peak to peak RA error of 1.8" - is this higher than expected? Due to that dip perhaps on the graph?
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I think that looks good, job well done!
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Wow, that’s beautiful. A new one to me.
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Complete novice - help me spend money!
tooth_dr replied to danorman's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
There is an argument for leaving the camera stock. But I’m not sure about the last paragraph/conclusion including where he says a modified camera is “too-sensitive” to H-alpha. I want to record what’s there, whats being emitted, not filter it out, even if our eyes aren’t specifically designed to see deep reds. You need to remove a filter, not add one. That filter is inside the camera itself. -
Complete novice - help me spend money!
tooth_dr replied to danorman's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Camera bodies don't necessarily need modded, but it can improve their astro performance. For example shooting the Andromeda galaxy wouldn't benefit hugely from modifying it, but for other emission nebula it helps a lot. -
Complete novice - help me spend money!
tooth_dr replied to danorman's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Totally agree. EQ6 - wouldn't want to be carrying this down the stairs, awkward enough on level ground and negotiating the odd door step. You could break the kit down, but this = not using it. There was a SA kit on here for under £200, and with a camera and lens, you will have lots of change left over. If you get hooked, the next step could be a bigger mount, with a permanent pier or shed. You would have enough money to do this and buy a used mount. -
Complete novice - help me spend money!
tooth_dr replied to danorman's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
I agree with the SA recommendation. Im currently setting up a portable kit. I’m using a expro power pack to run the mount and camera, which is attached to the tripod. And connecting the DSLR camera to the shutter output means no wires. All set up, just lift, polar align, and start imaging. -
Betelgeuse dimmer
tooth_dr replied to Nigella Bryant's topic in Observing - Widefield, Special Events and Comets
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Hi Stuart Some cameras have set point cooling so -10oC is just that, a set point at -10. Doesn’t matter where your camera is, it cools itself to -10 degrees (provided it can reach -10). Cameras generally have the ability to cool to 25-50 degrees below ambient. So some cameras will struggle to reach -10 indoors. Other cameras can’t control the temp they cool to and so their final temp will vary with ambient. It’s easier to build at library of sub lengths at a fixed temp.
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Hi Stuart Some cameras have set point cooling so -10oC is just that, a set point at -10. Doesn’t matter where your camera is, it cools itself to -10 degrees (provided it can reach -10). Cameras generally have the ability to cool to 25-50 degrees below ambient. So some cameras will struggle to reach -10 indoors. Other cameras can’t control the temp they cool to and so their final temp will vary with ambient. It’s easier to build at library of sub lengths at a fixed temp.
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Dither and/or darks?
tooth_dr replied to rubecula's topic in Imaging - Image Processing, Help and Techniques
HI Robin I'd say that you would be better with darks though, if you plan on taking 20 minute lights. I run my darks in an evening when it's cloudy, it doesnt take any more than a few minutes to set up the imaging run, and obviously no time to process. Flats are a PITA, but darks, they are easy -
Abell 779 galaxy cluster + a distant quasar
tooth_dr replied to Datalord's topic in Imaging - Deep Sky
Very nice image I always enjoy the Abell clusters. -
Cone, Fox Fur and Christmas Tree Nebulae (again!)
tooth_dr replied to carastro's topic in Imaging - Deep Sky
The reds are great here. Good job Carole. -
Cone and Fox Fur Nebulae and NGC2264 the Christmas Tree Cluster
tooth_dr replied to Laurin Dave's topic in Imaging - Deep Sky
Very nice. -
Check Your Astrobin
tooth_dr replied to Freddie's topic in Imaging - Image Processing, Help and Techniques
I’ve been given a free upgrade to premium following the data loss. This has worked in my favour as I’m not limited to ten images. -
That’s very impressive Emil. The detail and processing is fantastic.