tooth_dr

I bought a canon DSLR with two puns bent. It was a two minute job when a dental instrument. Your camera is very fixable but don’t bend them too many times or they might break off.

Thanks for taking time to reply. Will decide later and get it ordered!

@Jkulin thanks for the input John. I wasn't sure about the switched versus linear, but obviously you have no issues.

The 120 seems to be a formidable camera. Honestly, you can almost feel the dust from that picture, it's phenomenal. I really don't like the moon, but yet when I see images of this quality I am in awe of it's beauty. Super job.

Good job, brings back memories. Very satisfying I;m sure.

Superb Richard, glad you are getting some good nights. New camera easy enough to use?

I’m a bit further on with the mount. I’ve ordered a few Lindy cables. They should arrive tomorrow. I’m in the process of setting up a multi camera rig. Easily balanced on the mesu.

Thanks Dave. I have a couple of those, Baader 5A. Leads are a bit short on the 12v side, I don’t like anything 240v in the open bit of the shed.

Its a random one! It’s an adapter to attach an EQ8 polemaster adapter to a mesu e200!

When I modified mine I followed this guide http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmodnew.html

Postman brought this today.

Cheers Dave. The camera cooling appears to be the big draw. How do you run your cameras?

Cheers Alan. Thats good to hear. I have been running a dual rig on my current power supply - it offers 3-5 amps, with 7 amp surg. The figures I obtained for the cameras are around 1.7-2.0A at 50% power. I find that mine run anywhere from 45-65% at -20, depending on ambient. So I was estimating 6A in total for the cameras. Three dew heaters - I was allowing 0.7A each. I didnt count the USB HitecAstro hub, and Moonlite motor focuser, and guidecam. I dont know what the mesu draws, but I think it wouldnt be unreasonable to assume around 8-9A total draw? I just think that the smaller one from FLO would be on the limit?

Thanks Alan, I didn't see the other PS on FLO. I don't think I would need the variable voltage, but agree the housing looks better. I have done a rough calculation of my current draw. CCD running at 50% power = 2A EFW = 0.3A Mount = 1A Dew Heaters = 2A I have three cameras/EFWs, so total continuous power draw would be around 11 amps.

If you drop me a PM I’ll stick some in the post for you.

Hello all I currently have a power supply that was produced by Maplin, I got it just before they closed. It is rated at 3 amps continuous and 5 amps 50%, surge 7 amps. With the kit that I now plan to run, I'm going to be over the ratings. I have found the Nevada range in my search, and was considering buying one larger one, rather than another smaller one and then have two power supplies running. There is redundancy in having two supplies, but I also like the idea of just a single unit. I will still have the current one as a backup should I need to use it. Looking at these ones as a stand alone. Switched power supply or does it need to be linear? https://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/product/nevada-psw-30h/ https://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/product/nevada-ps23-sw1/ Any advice regarding the suitability? Alternatively just stick with the one on FLOs website? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/nevada-ps-08-6a-8a-regulated-linear-power-supply.html Thanks Adam.

Just last last night I replaced the rusty starhead screws with some stainless ones. Exactly as Merlin66 says, 8mm M4.

Thats a great FOV, lovely image.

Gear image Bobby. A lot of potential with that new scope.

Well another user error detected! There was a second grub screw which was hidden against the focuser. This was loose and allowing a fair bit of movement. I tightened all up and there isn’t any movement now. I hope this was the problem! I’ve highlighted the loose screw and a video of movement. IMG_2664.MOV

Hi John, significant improvement. I did see the magenta but that trick eluded me (even though I had read about it before!), so thanks for reminding me I'll try a reprocess again, and dial it back a bit this time.

Hi John I used 600s subs for NB. I have three cameras with the 8300 sensor. I think it's perfectly good, and is very good value second hand. The limiting factor here is me not the CCD. The advantage of the CMOS is shorter exposures, but that in itself has some disadvantages around storage and processing.

Hi Andrew. Sorry I’m not totally sure what this means? I suspect if I had any telescope attached and was still using my finderscope to guide, I should in theory still be guiding at the original good guiding of 0.6”.

I did change the figures. Checked it a few times! I’ve never used the 178 colour for guiding before. I’ve changed too many variables in one go here!

Thanks Steve for the reply. My tracking seems on par with my EQ6, which isn’t really what I wanted to find! With the finderscope previously on the mesu I was getting 0.4-0.6 which i felt was ok. With this OAG I suspect it must be an error with flexure, balance, wind, or something that has changed, maybe polar alignment is out a bit, but i don’t think so. Ive been using anything from 2-4s exposures, no difference really. I didn’t get my guidelogs this evening. Will get them tomorrow. Been making a way of fixing a guidescope solidly to the 10” to try that out also.