tooth_dr

Nice presentation. I imaged this comet a couple of nights ago, seems to have a longer tail now.

Was going to say differential flexure too. Some play between the two scopes. I’ve seen it in my own dual rig of 80mm scopes when the tube rings weren’t really tight on one scope.

I've come to the conclusion that it's very hard to do RGB of a comet with a mono camera! So after a failed attempt at stacking, I've concluded the processing with an animation. It's 5 x 300s in each colour RGB, which accounts for the change in brightness. Hope you like it, clear skies Adam.

Definitely very impressive indeed.

Hi @Marco Mo Can you post the unprocessed stack from DSS?

Thanks Wim. It’s a new Mesu so doubt there are any issues. I’ll post another thread to see if I’m doing anything wrong!

How are you guiding? I've attached an OAG to my 1200mm FL scope, but am seeing a RMS of around 1. With an finderscope guidescope I'm getting an RMS of 0.5-0.6 (on a shorter focal length but heavier scope). Not sure what to do.

These galaxies are amazing, by far the best time of the year if you can get a decent FL on them.

The detail in the galaxies looks fantastic. If you could control the background a little more, then this would be better. There is not much colour, did you use a very high ISO? I have done this target with about 26 hours of data on a DSLR. You've done well with just 2 hours!

Thanks Wim. I now see my RGB are underexposed and Lum overexposed!

Thanks guys for helping me out. I’m going to check over the collimation again, the stars aren’t just right

I was setting up an imaging run in the framing and mosaic wizard for a messier object, and I noticed this nice looking galaxy at the edge of the FOV. So instead I set up a run based around it. This is 27 x 300s, Tak 180ed and 383L+, luminance filter. I've tried platesolving in astrobin, but it isnt working. Anyone help me out please with a plate solve and labelling? Also my stars looks elongated in one direction. Is this a collimation issue? Tracking was good at around 0.5"/px RMS. Any advice welcome regarding this. Thanks, clear skies. Adam

Big improvement, looks really good now.

Hi Gary I recently was setting up my SW autofocuser on my scope, and noticed that the motor was slipping on the spindle. I went to investigate and noticed there was no way of actually tightening the motor coupling to the shaft, but that it appeared to rely on friction. I drilled a hole in the coupling, and threaded it to allow me to directly tighten it up to the shaft. It not longer slips. And if it goes to the full travel of the focuser, then the spindle itself slips against the little teflon block, and prevents any damage. Could you try that? I'll try to post pics from my phone shortly. If the spindle itself is spinning then this EAF isnt going to cure the problem you have. If you are using the standard crayford (I know you have mentioned a moonlite upgrade?) then due to the design of a crayford, there is potential for the focuser to slip. So the steps are repeatable, but the postition isnt. You would need a R+P focuser to guarantee that. All the best Adam. *edited to add photos - a bit crude but effective.

Just to jump in here - everyone is saying they are using 1/2 the exposure duration for luminance compared to RGB? Instinctively I assumed the opposite. This may have been where I was going wrong. Unless binned 2x2 and then use the same time?

Thanks for that info. I live in a decent Bortle 4 area myself and at F2.8 with my Epsilon and Atik 8300, I’m still trying to gauge the right exposure time. Certainly I’d be completely overexposed at 600s. That’s a cracker of an image, so it working well for you.

Stunning image. Thanks for sharing.

This is lovely 👍🏻 I was due to get my adapter to connect lens filterwheel and camera but my friend is now in isolation due to CV-19 and the part is sitting in his work!

Totally fantastic! I'm still struggling with my own exposure times but you mention 600s subs in luminance? At F3.9 isnt this a long time, but then maybe the gain = 0 is the answer? I use a CCD so dont know how that impacts it.

You too

First night with Mesu and 250px (and OAG). It moves the scope around like it doesn’t exist 😮 I actually had to move the weights up the shaft when I took of the 180ed. The 250 is light, but a wind sail

Yeah I ran two at time together on a dual rig. I can’t help the poster though as I’ve never used BYE more then did just the trial, but it worked on my 1000d which is essentially a budget 40d

This isn’t correct. The 40d works off usb alone.

The 40d is fully compatible with bulb usb exposures. You definitely don’t need an additional serial cable. 100%

I can see the slight eggy shape. Hard to know what to do.