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tooth_dr

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Everything posted by tooth_dr

  1. Hi Gary When you say 5mm and 7mm is that not a lot? I’ve spacers that I use that add 0.3 0.5 and 1.0mm, to fine tune.
  2. I agree, had one fitted to my ED80, well worth the money. Nice image - perhaps a little dark on the background?
  3. These were taken with an Atik 383L+ and the Epsilon, a few images, clear skies in short supply. Jellyfish Nebula - 3 hours total, Ha and Oiii, not much to see in the 40 mins of Oiii: Leo Triplets - 1 hour 40 mins, Luminance only - looks a tad out of focus: Rosette Nebula - 6 x 10mins, hydrogen alpha, including starless version:
  4. Superb job. Lots of detail and colour.
  5. Here is an image from two short sessions - total of 3 hours and 10 minutes - 1 hour Ha and 2 hours 10 mins Oiii. I think with a bit more data, I will get a better colour balance, but I see all the lovely images of a blue centre, and I couldnt manage to achieve that so a little disappointed. Tips and pointers welcomed. Thanks for looking Adam
  6. Yes. Imaging kit includes reducer, EFW3 (big one with 7 x 2" filter carousel), and Atik 383L+, and necessary spacers.
  7. Hi Gary I have a Moonlite crayford focuser on my scope and it handles the full imaging kit and focuses precisely with minimal tilting (I can’t seen any). It has the high res stepper motor and works with any software I’ve tried. It works on autofocus too and plots a nice v curve.
  8. Thats a great result, from a cheap wee camera. The dark subtraction made a huge difference.
  9. Good idea, but no one involved in this project, including me, has the time or resources to do undertake that project. And if it falls apart and hurts someone, or breaks the telescope, that’s another matter again!
  10. Thanks! Need the large for a 14”. Cant find a uk supplier.
  11. @groberts I think it's probably 3.75um pixels. PHD2 autopopulates this data when I plug in my 120MM (same as yours only mono)
  12. Thanks Dave Looking for commercially available solutions, for business use.
  13. Any suggestions for a UK supplier? Looking to be able to move a 14" on a tripod along a flat concrete floor, into observing position. TIA CS Adam.
  14. Thanks James. I've reverted to the 178MC over the past two nights. It's working ok on the finder guide scope, but I suspect it isn't quite as sensitive as the 120MM. I will try it as a OAG, binned 2x2, and see if it works ok. It has small pixels 2.4um so even binned will still be under 5um pixels.
  15. I didnt post that, don't know how you quoted me? But yes I would be wary of someone who has lots of adverts too, if they claim to be a private seller.
  16. Probably the most accurate description, certainly tallies with my experiences.
  17. Thanks AAF. I've USB set to 40 - lowest it will go. I've also tried it at a few variations. I've give the contacts a clean later, nothing to lose.
  18. Thats real bad knowingly selling it, at a premium price too, not reflecting the quality issues. I don’t think now after hearing all the stories about refractors would I buy an expensive used one.
  19. I suppose I was getting at star shapes - this I guess is subjective is it not? Stripped threads are a different matter and clearly an indisputable fault. I received horribly fungused Binoviewers once, seller said they didn’t check before dispatch, and weren’t aware! Er ok. Luckily I used PayPal buyer protection and got a refund.
  20. I guess it depends on what you describe as faulty? Is the fault subjective?
  21. Thanks David, no I sold your old one a while ago, when I discovered that I couldn't used both on the same PC at the same time.
  22. Depending on what stacking software I use, I get different values for the FWHM, from the same data.
  23. I’ll try it out. The mono usually has many many stars to choose from so hopefully colour will work ok.
  24. It’s the same as knobbys usb2 version. It’s not ancient, just bought before the new mini one came out. @Skipper Billy it’s a straight USB cable to the pc not near any power cables, nor through a usb hub. I updated the firmware today and same result of split screen. It’s probably my pc. But it’s starting to drop frames - phd will say after say 17 seconds that it hadn’t captured an image, but then it’ll automatically start capturing again. I’ll give the 178 I have a whirl since it’s here currently unused. After that I don’t know.
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