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emyliano2000

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emyliano2000 last won the day on November 13 2019

emyliano2000 had the most liked content!

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About emyliano2000

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    Sub Dwarf

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    Male
  • Location
    Bushey, Herts UK
  1. I don't have an automated obsy but every time I go on a trip to dark skies with my eq3, travel setup, I leave the eq6 uncovered to control it from my dark skies location and if I forget to unplug and plug back in the usb cable, I'm in trouble. It happened once and luckily my wife was at home to the rescue Emil
  2. I'm thinking that it might have something to do with the usb port on the mini pc where the filterwheel is connected. I'm having the problem when the sx is on my eq6 setup. The wheel is connected to an anker powered usb hub and the hub to the mini pc. On the other hand when I put it on my eq3 setup is doesn't cause this problem and connects every time. On the eq3 setup I'm using a similar anker powered usb hub as on the eq6 setup but it's connected to a different usb port on the mini pc.
  3. Hello guys. I'm after some help for the spacing of the CCDT67 on my RC6. I've been looking online for some answers and I found the manual and a topic on cloudy nights about it but I'm wondering if I'm doing it right. The manual says that in order to have a reduction of 0.67x, the spacing needs to be 85mm. I tried that and the stars on the edges and in the corners look horrible. I tried more than 85 with the same results. The camera that I'm using it with is a qhy163m with a 4/3 inch sensor. The guy on cloudy nights was saying that he got the best results with a reduction of 0.75x Using the formula given in the manual, I worked out that the distance from the sensor should be 76.25mm {(305-76.25)/305=0.75 Because the CCDT67 takes up 16mm of the distance and the sensor in 6.5mm deep, I could barely make up the 53.75mm (sx filterwheel, OAG and a few small spacers) needed to get the 0.75x reduction. Is this the right way to do it? Now, with my 4/3 inch (33.87mm) sensor and a reduction of 0.75x, following the manual, I should have a fully illuminated circle of 33mm. Would my stars be better now or should I try to get a 33.87mm fully illuminated circle? Are the star shapes on the edges and corners guided by the fully illuminated circle? The guy on cloudy nights posted a photo shot with an APS-C sensor and 0.75x reduction. Here's the link. https://www.astrobin.com/237518/?nc=user Emil
  4. I have sgp set to retry every 2 minutes for one and a half hours to try and avoid that. I love it, looks great in my opinion Emil
  5. Thank you very much for the lovely comments. Somebody actually told me that I can pull more out of it and he showed me his attempt with a RASA 8, under dark skies and dedicated astro camera. My intention was always to reveal only as much as I could without making a mess out of it and I'm very happy with it as it is, especially the 8 spikes I never thought of stacking everything on it before and it worked out very nice with the camera angle both at 90 and 0 degrees. Emil
  6. This name is the first name of a deep sky object that I ever heard. I heard it from my father talking to a friend when I was a child and always wondered what it was. This is why I love to call it The Great Orion Nebula Emil
  7. So, for the last few days I kept thinking that Orion is coming back in the scene and I was wondering if I should shoot it again with the 6" RC and QHY163M. Because of that I decided to stack all the data I had on it from 2017 and 2018 to see what result I get from it and if it's the result is good enough I can skip it this year too and concentrate my imaging time on something else. I only have 4 hours of data and maybe adding some Ha to it would bring some benefits, I don't know, but I'm really pleased with what I got from it and I just might skip it this year too, what do you think? I got 8 spikes because I had the rotation set at both 90 and 0 degrees Skywatcher 200p Upgraded Carbon fibre Skywatcher 10" quattro Astromodified Canon 700D QHY10 osc cooled CCD Skywatcher 0.9x coma corrector Baader mpcc iii coma corrector IDAS LPS-D1 IDAS LPS-D1Clip filter 200p + 700D: 59x120" ISO800, 50x3" ISO800, 4x30" ISO800, 3x300" ISO800 10" quattro and QHY10: 11x60" (gain: 15.00) -15C bin 1x1, 13x600" (gain: 15.00) -15C bin 1x1 Emil
  8. If you decide to split, maybe the person that enquired about it would be interested in my SX 7x1.25 wheel. Emil
  9. Hi Andy, if you decide to split, I want the filterwheel please. Thanks Emil
  10. Hello guys, I'm looking for a straight swap with a 8x1.25" ZWO filterwheel if possible because I'm trying to reduce the distance from my camera to the filters. My filterwheel is on the scope at the moment. It comes with 4 adapters, an m48 female, an m42 male an m42 female and an m54 female one so plenty of options for all kind of cameras. Works and worked flawlessly sisnce the day I got it. It comes with the SX filterwheel box too. Please let me know. Emil
  11. I have no idea. I emailed them a couple of times but they didn't even bother to reply. I was actually thinking of selling the Ha and Sii ultra-narrowband and getting the Antlia 3.5nm set but I'm still not very convinced they are better and on top of that I would lose out a lot from selling them. Emil
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