emyliano2000

I love clusters but I love nebulae and gallaxies too. When the moon is high in the sky I am in a way happy that clusters are one of the only things you can image without being affected by the skyglow caused by the moon. I know that you can do narrowband imaging or planetary but clusters are so beautiful and easy to capture. Here is my last night's target, M29, The Cooling tower. 29x180sec ISO800, SW200P, Canon 450D

Here's a photo of a part of the milky way taken with the 18-55mm kit lens at 18mm f3.5 from my light polluted back garden in Bushey, bortle 6 skies. The photo is actually a stack of 25 x 15 sec ISO1600. Now I have a Samyang 16mm f2 and I'm hoping to get some Milky way shots with it very soon. I only heard good things about this lens, tried it on the stars a few times and I love it. I used it for a few photos of the stars with a full moon for a collection I'm making. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=453127651797260&id=440814366361922

I had the same problem after I replaced the stock focuser on my 200p. Ended up stripping the OTA and step by step checking absolutely everything I could think of and in the end my problem was solved. I took a few photos of my workflow. 1. First I put the OTA in a horizontal position 2. Second I rotated the ota until the focuser plate was level on one side 3. Third I checked if the focuser plate was level on the other side. It wasn't, so I had to insert some shims between the plate and the ota to make it level. 4. I checked again the level on the other side like i did at no. 2 5. I squared the focuser plate to the OTA as shown in the video posted by @spillage 6. I fixed the focuser on to the focuser plate. The focuser drawtube wasn't aligned with the OTA so I had to tweak it until I got it right. (Each focuser might be different) 20180515_211213.mp4 7. I centered the secondary mirror holder to the ota. 8. I checked if the center point on the primary is centered. 9. I took the primary mirror out of the cell and I stuck some cut offs of double sided adhesive pads inside the cell to hold the mirror in place (I was always loosing my collimation after a meridian flip). The adhesive pad that I used is a bit thicker than the cork pads that are in the cell and this way I didn't have to remove the cork pads. 10. I put the clips back on and tightened them until I could slide a piece of paper between the mirror and the clips to avoid a pinched mirror. 20180515_220603.mp4 11. I fixed the socondary back in place and aligned it with the draw tube following astrobaby's collimation guide. (my collimation bible) http://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/ 12. I aligned the primary with the secondary. 13. A while ago I converted a logitech webcam for collimation purposes and also checked the collimation with it. 14. The end. Nice round stars all across the fov. I hope this helps. Emil

Thanks! I extracted the red channel in photoshop. I don't really like a red image.

Now reduced to £150.

I found out that it was indeed the focus.

Could I have some suggestions about other Ha targets for UK, this time of the year please. I can use a 8" f5 newtonian, ts65 quad f6.5, canon 200mm f2.8 or a canon 135mm f2. Was thinking of the wizard with the 8", I tried it with the ts56 quad refractor but with the 8" I will get a narrower fov and I'm thinking it will look better.

Another shot in Ha. How I love this filter. Does a brilliant job. Canon 600D full spectrum, 23x600sec ISO1600 Astronomik 6nm Ha clip in filter. TS65quad refractor Thanks for looking! Emil

I have a Canon 200mm f2.8 borrowed from a friend and I thought of trying it on this target. I stopped it at f4 and I really like the resut. Hope you like it too. Canon 600D full specrum, 24x600sec ISO1600, Astronomik 6nm Ha Clip filter Emil

28x150sec and 2x300sec. Couldn't reveal more because of the noise and banding but I'm very happy with it.

Still for sale. £160ono

I'll be out tonight, I will check the focus again and take a 120sec exposure to see how it looks like.

I always use the Bahtinov mask and the Bahtinov Aid in APT and always have it spot on.

Hi guys. Could somebody tell me what is making my stars look like this? The photos were taken with my full spectrum modified 600D, 2" IDAS LPS-D1 filter and TS65 quad imaging refractor. I had the same problem when using a clip in filter. This is the stacked image And this is a single raw file Thanks Emil

Thanks. Ill give it a try.