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About emyliano2000

  • Rank
    Star Forming
  • Birthday 15/07/79

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    Bushey, Herts UK
  1. Hi. I'm in the process of moving houses now, so on a little break from AP but I would be really interested in knowing how you've done it. Emil
  2. Here's some of my shots with my canon 700d, sw 200p on a guided eq6 mount. Leo Triplet M97 - M108 M81 - M82 M13 M42 M101 M1 M51 Horsehead and Flame nebulae And some photos of the moon taken with my phone And this is my setup
  3. Thanks to happy-kat I followed the steps on the link and this is the result that I got.I used a little Lightroom too, not too much Emil
  4. Thanks
  5. Thanks for encouraging me. I used the same file that I posted here on the first page for whoever wants to have a go at it. I know you are using StarTools too happy-kat, could you give it a try and see what you can do with it. I really like alacant's result in StarTools and wornish got so much blue that I don't seem to get when processing. Thanks Emil
  6. I have the full version.
  7. I just spent 4 hours in front of StarTools to try and get something more decent out of the image but with very, very poor results, much worse than what I got from PS. And still no blue. I wanted to save the image so I can post the result here but I couldn't.
  8. I dont know how you guys do it but I'm never able to get any blue out of my galaxies. I shot M81, M51, M65 and M101 and they are mostly red.
  9. Ok, thanks
  10. It would be so great if this forum would have a live chat
  11. Wow. I will give it a try on startools too. My main problem is that I don't understand most of its features. OK, turning the PC and startools on.
  12. Thank you all for your efforts. This is what I would like to be able to do with my photos at some point in the future. I see that all of you used PixInsight to process the photo. I'm just wondering if PS and Lightroom or Startools are able to get similar results or something close to it. After having some sort of success in processing a few images in Startools, I decided to buy it but I don't seem to get any decent images out of it anymore so I stopped using it This is why I made a subscription to PS and Lightroom. I know over time it's more expensive than Pixinsight but after spending quite a lot of money on my imaging setup I can't really afford to buy pixinsight but at the same time I want to have a strong processing tool. I can't really feel the £8.50/month coming out of my account but €300 in one go would have a big impact at the moment. So if somebody with great knoledge of PS or Startools wants to have a go too please do so. I'm so curious what can be done with it with what I already have. Emil
  13. Hi Alex. I used the exposure and gamma HDR setting to convert to 16 bit. And about the noise, I probably didn’t stretch it enough to expose to much of it. I did use a little bit of clarity and noise reduction in Lightroom too. I need to save myself some money and get pixinsight or maybe I'm not using PS as I should. I can never get the colors right in PS. Do you think the flats are doing their job properly? How much data would you say you need to have to get a final image with no noise or just a little bit when you stretch it to get all the detail exposed? Emil
  14. I just had a look at it on my phone and it looks worse 🤔 I callibrated my monitor, so on my desktop they look quite good.
  15. Thank you all for the lovely comments. I would like to say that I have used a Master Dark made out of the Dark Flats I have taken that night and saved the file as 16 bits. I never do any processing in DSS. When I asked about settings in DSS I meant these settings. I'm not sure if I'm using them right. As for the PS work flow what can I say. 1-First of all, if it's not already saved as 16 bits, I make the file 16 bits, after that I try to reduce the light pollution with a method from a tutorial I found: Layer/ New Adjustment Layer/ Levels, I give it a name and I pull the left pointer for Red, Green and Blue close to the histogram peak. The tutorial doesn't say what to do afterwards so I just presumed I have to "Merge Visible". 2- Image/ Adjustments/ Levels and I pull the middle pointer towards the Histogram peak so I can get some details of the target. 3-Image/Adjustments/ Levels and I pull the left pointer all the way to the right to find the brightest point and then I pull the right pointer all the way to the left to find the darkest point 4-with the Eye dropper tool I create 2 new color samplers for the brightest and darkest points of the image 5-Image/Adjustments/Curves then CTRL+Click on the 2 samplers created, CTRL+Click on a part of the image that I wanna brig out more detail of and press the UP Arrow on the keyboard 5 times then press OK. I only do 5 at a time. 6-If I'm not happy with that I play with the Curves and Levels a bit more until I'm satisfied 7-Image/Adjustments/ Match Color to bring out some color in the image. I usually increase the color intensity to 130-150 8-Filters - GradientXTerminator (it's only the trial version) 9-Filters - HLVG (I keep it strong) 10-Filters/ Solar Screech/ Color Correction I sometimes play a little with the Brightness/Contrast, Exposure and Hue Saturation The order might not be exactly the same every time but that are the settings I play with. I'm not advanced enough to play with Layers and other settings in PS just yet. I had another go at it but this time I used a Master Dark made out of the Bias frames, I saved the image in DSS as 32 bits and made it 16 bits in PS. It didn't need that much work this time, Light pollution removal, HLVG, GradientXTerminator, Match Color, Color correction, a little bit of Levels, nothing in Curves. I think it looks better than my first attempt. If somebody wants to have a go at it here is the 32bits TIF file. It's quite a large file, 207mb. I'm just curious what else can come out of it in Pixinsight or Startools or even PS with different methods and workflow. M101 (Bias Darks).TIF Emil