Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

91 Excellent

About rubecula

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Lepidoptera
  • Location
    North Hampshire, UK
  1. Oh, I do like that. That's a new one on me also. I'm amazed you have created such a lovely image from only 4 hours of imaging.
  2. Taken around the end of March. L = 18 x 600 sec, R = 13 x 600 sec, G = 13 x 600 sec and B = 15 x 600 sec. 9hr 50min in total. All binned 1 x 1. Capture SGP and PHD2, processing with DSS and Photoshop. I've fiddled a lot with this image and found it dificult to know when to stop. Focus could be improved but I'm waiting for the new Celestron motor focuser. The trouble is they keep delaying the release in the UK, AND putting the price up!
  3. Uranium235, I only got the camera last November and baked the dessicant so I'll try your part cool method next time and see what happens, Thanks
  4. Thanks Adam, SGP has this function to control cool down and warm up: Like you I get the camera cooling first and then plate solve, etc. so It's probably more than 5 minutes until I take the first image. On warming I try to get it back to the ambient temp. I'll give it a little longer tonight.
  5. Ah, it's gone! Must be something to do with the cooling. Which reminds me of a question I have been meaning to ask about cooling / warming rates. With the Atik 383l+ I've been setting it to cool to -20C in five minutes and this evening the temp in the observatory is about +9C. Last night I set it to warm up from -20C to +5C (about ambient) in 4 minutes. Are these cooling rates too fast? Thanks
  6. I've just started this evenings session and got the first image down. There's something odd (condensation, dirt???) showing in the bottom right corner of the image (see below). I was imaging the same target last night and the blemish or whatever it is wasn't there. It's not the top of trees or anything like that as the scope is pointing way above any obstruction at M51. Have you seen anything like it before? Will it be safe to continue imaging. Thanks
  7. Thanks for that Adrian, you've given me one or trwo things to look into. Sorry for the delay in replying, we've been away for a couple of days. Best wishes,
  8. Since I got the CCD I've been focusing using SGP Frame and Focus. Originally with a little patience I could get HFR values around 2.5 to 2.8. Last night I started imaging around 2.8 but as the night went on and I re-focused between filter changes it became harder and harder, in fact the best I could do was around 3.5. It's a bit of a fiddle as after adjusting the focus I have to wait for 2 or 3 image downloads before the value settles down. I'm imaging again tonight and am again struggling with focusing only managing to get HFR values around 3.7. What sort of HFR value should I be aiming for? Could the air quality be effecting the values I can achieve? I know I need a motor focuser but cost is an issue. The new Celestron looks as though it would be ideal so I'm waiting until it's available in the UK. Thanks
  9. Another back sufferer here. I've had 4 discs removed in the course of three operations so I know exactly what you are going through. My first solution was a tripod trolly (I think that in the USA they are called a dolly). That allowed me to keep everything set up in the garage and then just roll it out on clear nights. The only issue I had was that I had to go quite a long way on a gravel path to get the best views of the sky and the vibration tended to loosen the equipment fittings, so eventually I invested in an observatory. So if you have a space to store the set-up and a relatively smooth track to where you need to be to observe / image then that might be your answer. I no longer use the trolley so it will be up for sale soon. Hope you manage to get your back sorted.
  10. Thanks Guys, it could have been because I powered up the Atik gear before connecting the PC. I have a power supply unit connected directly to a distribution box on the OTA that supplies all the kit and I sometimes switch that on before connecting the PC to the kit. I'll be careful to ensure I always do it the other way round. Thanks
  11. The other night the 383L+ and EFW2 would not connect via SGPro. I had recently tidied up the cabling so that's where I started. After an hour faffing with cables to no avail I did an on-line search and discovered that it maybe a driver issue. After another hour working out how to update the drivers and then doing it, all worked again. I had been using the latest drivers. I had not done any windows update between it working and not working. It seems odd that software that worked 3 days previously stopped working. Some advice please: Is there any way of stopping this happening again? Are there any pointers to quickly determining that it's a driver problem? What is the correct and quickest way to update drivers? I have put this question on the Atik forum but so many issues on there have been unanswered so I thought I'd ask here. Thanks
  12. I got my Canon 550D modified and the results are much improved as a result.
  13. Thanks for doing that Adam, you got a lot more out of that without blowing the stars. Confirms that I need more practice. It's good to know it's me and not the image ?
  14. To process LRGB I've been using Merge Channels for the RGB in Photoshop to stretch all three at the same time and then add the Luminance as a separate layer above the RGB. When adding some Ha as red do you somehow add it to the red channel together with the red subs so that in Merge Channels you have (R+Ha) + G + B? Or do you stretch it first and add as a seperate layer? Thanks
  15. tooth_dr apologies the image I sent you had been stretched. Here's one that hasn't: The Tadpoles LUM stacked.TIF Thanks
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.