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Laurin Dave

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Laurin Dave last won the day on February 22

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About Laurin Dave

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    Proto Star

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Cycling, Physics, Guitar, Travel, Caravanning
  • Location
    Berkshire
  1. Looks to me like there are two things going on.. a) ASI1600 microlensing around 51 Cygni which in your case isn't that bad and which you cant do anything about and possibly b) a reflection of 51 Cygni from the sensor glass back to the filter and then back again creating the large spaced out donuts. Suggest you try turning the filter around and see if that makes a difference and also see if it is the same on all filters and also with no filter. Dave
  2. I also had a very poor experience with DFO.... Whatever mount you get I'd see what it does out of the box with your Scope/Camera combo and get advice on here if needed before spending money on tuning it. As for the Samyang 135 there's a thread on here about using it showing the excellent results that are possible
  3. It’s a “Canary”.. monitors temp and humidity has video and lets me know when it thinks there’s someone in the dome ie when the trees cast moving shadows on the dome.. mounted on an upturned bookend my son made many years ago
  4. Here’s mine.. much the same as Steve’s.. the board screws on to 4 wooden blocks which are stuck to the dome with plastic padding ..
  5. Looks like you used a step size of 10 with the Epsilon.. it might be different with a different scope ... RayD has a done a couple of his Simplified Astro videos on setting it up and explaining all this much better than I can... its giving me a headache
  6. Hi Adam.. I’d have thought that the backlash was about the same as the number of steps on the flat bit .. Just make your backlash compensation bigger than that and try again... if it’s still got a flat bit increase it again ..Etc.. having it a bit too big isn’t a problem .. Also worth checkIng that all the connections between the motor and focuser are tight .. mine work lose over time Dave
  7. Hi... when I started using it I followed these https://www.lightvortexastronomy.com/tutorials.html .. and found them pretty helpful, its not on video though... I also used Harry's videos .. which I also found the best.. HTH Dave
  8. With the Eraser you set a Size and Hardness... it has numerous brushes and things but as stars are round (and mainly because I know no better) I just use a circle.. the other thing you can do if you have RGB filters in the main scope is do a quick set of RGB for the stars and replace them, it only needs an hour in total
  9. On my ASI1600 I use Unity gain at -10C all year, 1 min for Lum, 2min for RGB and 5 min for Ha, Oiii and Sii. any longer on LRGB and bright stars are blown out and have no colour in the core. For LRGB images I would allocate time 1/2 Lum 1/6 each RGB.. for NB 1/3, 1/3, 1/3.. I'd do a minimum 30 minutes each channel before changing filters to avoid wasting time focusing.. Shoot Red when the target is low G and B when its higher and Lum when its highest as this will give the best resolution, if the seeing is poor don't bother with Lum - do it another time when seeing is better. In the absence of any Lum data you can make a Synthetic lum from the RGB data For the ASI1600 calibration requires matched darks and flat darks ie same gain offset, temp and exposure time to remove the Amp glow.. I find its best to do these with the camera off the scope with its cap on facing into a desk, that way you get no light leaks, before you do this though you'll need to figure out what exposures you need for your flats.. so you can get the appropriate flat darks, simple enough if you use a light panel or Ipad.. The Darks and Flat Darks will work well for a long time.. (I renew them at least once a year ) .. When you calibrate your Lights and Flats make sure that in whatever App you are using that any Dark Scaling or Optimisation is turned off This is the link to Robin Glovers talk - I'd better watch it!
  10. A very nice M106 Adam.. if you have Photoshop (or similar layers App) a fix for the blue stars would be to make a copy layer over the original, reduce the saturation to taste for blue and cyan in the bottom layer then erase the blue stars in the top layer.. Dave
  11. Clear skies this week have allowed the gathering of some Moon free Ha which I have now added. The outer halo is now visible (although somewhat noisy) and the increased signal has permitted greater sharpening. I've posted both the HaRGB and the de-convolved Ha, the central star (known as a Planetary Nebula Nucleus (PNN)) is very dim in Ha presumably because it is predominantly composed of Carbon and Oxygen. Thanks to @gorann for encouraging me to continue data gathering and thanks for looking Dave ps Goran astro dark here is now only two hours a night reducing to 1 hour by the end of next week .. (but Ha in nautical dark still seems to work)
  12. Here's another one through an Esprit150 (colour through the Esprit100 ).. nothing in it really Gav, although I do prefer your colour Dave
  13. Marvellous rendition Gav! Well done Dave
  14. Hi Adam.... with my Esprit 100/ASI1600 I focus on each filter using SGPro same exposure for LRGB 3 seconds binned 2x2 (I use 10seconds with NB).. FWHMs on red are nearly always slightly worse than blue and green - about 10-15%. I've checked the offsets and they aren't very large and are in line with yours directionally. Maybe try focus on filter if your software allows HTH Dave
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