bottletopburly

In colour module launch mask >auto stars >do >shrink x1 growx2 keep > colour module blinks x3 now press sample >back to mask >clear>invert ,keep>back to colour module ,image blinks x3 and applies balance to whole image ,use the RGB button to see where image is dominant especially green and adjust green if needed to reduce green channel ,post your fits file if you like and i will have a look.

Usb are only power ports not data , I use one to power my dslr via a usb converter , I power my 12v DSD autofocus unit and fan on primary , I supply power from a box I made which is fitted to pier supplied from a Nevada psu in the shed ,I bought whilst in the EU , ask Pavle any questions regards delivery to uk he will respond quickly .

Pity it took highlighting on an Astro forum to get a response , or just coincidental 🤔

Lockdown has caused an intrest in astronomy basically

I have a deepskydad dc hub for 12v power https://deepskydad.com/dchub2.

i have read a few threads in the past to do with responses from AA echoing your response i would simply cancel your order and take your business else where ,customer service is paramount these days if a business cant respond to a simple call /email regarding your order but are quick to take your funds then they dont deserve your custom .

I had a 200p now have the 200pds tbh other than the shorter tube on the pds version and the focuser dual speed there no difference in images , I use with a dslr and baader CC , I flocked mine and added a primary fan and added a autofocuser and a carry handle , you can always upgrade the focuser which a few people do anyway on the pds when using a heavy imaging train I haven’t yet , still to do is trim the focus tube slightly and mask the primary clips .

What scope have you fitted it too , image looks super to me and you’ve picked up the flux nebula

Yes 👍

First attempt using Startools 1.7 Created synthetic luminance from L+R+G+B , created red channel Ha +R using equal exposure times , then loaded files together L, RGB using compose mode . @jager945 Edit second image is using Startools 1.7 Thanks to Ivo @jager945and @happy-katLRGB processed and saved as tiff , then loaded HAv2 file auto dev bin ,crop,wipe auto Dev with roi and saved >load Ha file as red ,rgbRgb legacy,interpolation off ,save file ,load saved, Open Ha file non linear option >Layer mode >Lighten ,open saved lrgb file in foreground /composite now shows Ha accents added to lrgb .

You have possibly a Nikon that uses lossy compression there is a fix take a read of the CN thread https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/746131-nikon-coloured-concentric-rings/page-8#entry10867894 basically you need to convert to Adobe dng then run through a program by mark smeddley which corrects files before stacking give it a go .

A 6 ft fence I would be uneasy having it in an open view and an easy target ,I use APT for capture and has a new autofocus routine which is excellent, doesn’t control dome though or not that I’m aware of , deepskydad autofocuser works well and will fit your skywatcher 150 you can also buy a hand controller to manually adjust too .

I’ve bought twice from Dino pc , second one only recently with my lad spending £1400 just on a base unit for gaming with a RTX 3070 graphic card excellent response via email if you need info , system builder easy to navigate if certain parts are incompatible it will tell you or inform you to choose a minimum spec part etc price wise found to be reasonable and on par with the competition, his new pc is a beast i7 based 32gb Ram running off 2 ssd drives which we used from our older 18 months old system to save a few pennies ( now my processing pc) .

I had thought about putting a black shower cap over back end and cutting hole out centre for fan , draw tube I need to look at as think that’s affecting diffraction spike or primary clips are one or the other , autofocus is a godsend I use deepskydad units which have the ability to be used via hand controller too if you buy the hand controller and temp sensor which are extra if required, also works via WiFi too though I just use via APT ,slip ring is only so you can adjust ota with out slipping , never really suffer with dew on secondary since having a fan blowing .

I’m sure Ivo would be interested in tuning st wipe if struggling with heavy gradient if app seems better on heavy gradients @jager945, I have / had been struggling with flats on the 200pds using Nikon D5300 but hopefully I’m solving that due to Nikon using lossy compression it leaves heavy ringing , luckily thread on CN user marksmeddley seems to solved that writing a program to covert files to Adobe dng then run through his program so fingers crossed I’m hoping flats issue is solved ,my 200pds has autofocus fitted , flocked tube bobs knobs , wide dovetail , primary fan and recently got a concentre to collimate , and a slip ring above top ota ring , D2 filter seems to work but obviously filters the yellow channel which is currently on my frac t-ring I need to mount back in the 2” holder and screw back on my CC for use on the 200pds .

Have a try of Astap for stacking which is free and many use for platesolving , I have used for stacking with dslr and it’s simple to set up for that I’m sure @han59 can give advice for setting up parameters for using with mono set up .

If for visual you could make a diy Dobsonian base until funds allow mount upgrade ,if for Astrophotography then really you’ll need a Heq5

Clear sync data in Eqmod

Yes it seems like it’s been down for a while and the archives seem down too , maybe they have an update coming , I recently downloaded a few months back , maybe someone can recommend an alternative download site .

Saw the his on Eqmod forum I’m impressed, technology these days 🙄

Yes you can adjust phd2 scale to suit to get right calculations

dither of 4 gives you maximum dither of 19 pixels with phd2 scale set to 1

If back yard calculates same as APT then download my spreadsheet to calculate dither , download and edit to suit your equipment you need a dither around 15 pixels https://aptforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=3157 look down the thread for download

You can make a bias and dark library take about thirty of each and change every quarter so don’t use one taken in summer and use in winter so the ambient temp is roughly the same , so on your imaging night all you need is lights and flats , take say 120 sec subs if you can depending on your setup not sure if you can dither with a star adventurer I think you can .

More data definetley try for at least 4 hrs of data ,Dither between frames to eliminate walking noise if you can and most important take flat frames ,a lp filter may be helpful too .