bottletopburly

Not properly I need to have a go at last years m42 see how it works on the halos, I saw your comment on ST forum

Nice capture Steve ,did you just use unglow on stars or the planetary nebula ?

+1 for Startools

Great job 👏

I’m sure that doesn’t work since last big update, scripts changed.

Heart nebula approx 3hrs data teknosky 70Q,Nikon d5300,idasD2 filter ,processing in Startools7

Spray plenty of pledge on pipe the more the merrier

So this week Startools just released a video of the latest release 1.7 , just so happens I inherited a new computer this week so I gave Startools 1.7 gpu version a try and what a difference blisteringly fast , compared to the cpu version I’m very impressed having used Startools since 1.4 version a few new modules and reworked modules hats off to Ivo @jager945 fruits of his labour coming to fruition worthy of a look 👀 .

Flock the tube , that tube doesn’t look very black , then that will cover holes

Bought one not so sure 🤔

Read through this http://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/ should help

I use idas D2 and my town streetlights are led and D2 works well and yes expensive but do come up secondhand occasionally.

Very nice work , I remembered last night whilst imaging about multi star upgrade so quickly updated turned on multi star so first hour rms was 1.47 ten minutes using multi star 0.80 and then fog stopped play and during that ten minutes fog was developing so looking forward to giving it a proper test but looks like a game changer using my eq6 belt modded mount .

Did you know you can auto focus with a canon lens using APT .

Probably due to the fact that you haven’t left pipe work sticking above floor a couple of inches I would be inclined to extend the pipe above floor level using some polyurethane sealant and a pipe off cut unless you can’t put a straight join in .

Ah the holy grail of telescopes in short there is no such telescope, and certainly not cheap and transportable to Chuck in your suitcase, what’s suitable for visual may not be suitable forDSO Astrophotography , and what’s suitable for planetary may not be suitable for visual, you may need to start of with a budget and see what you can get for your money then decide what route to take .

You can order from @FLO https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/the-solar-system-by-aston-smith.html

We’re happy to help a fellow astronomer out 👍

This one comes up in a search no idea on their service though https://www.protechrepairs.co.uk/pages/shop/product.html?product_id=923026&show_category=&show_subcategory=&search_terms=&sort_order=&page=2

If 3M won’t stick and be surprised if it didn’t a little bit of evo stick where pad sits stick down once tak dry

You want 3M dual lock https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener-SJ3550/?N=5002385+3293242274&preselect=3293786499&rt=rud

This screwed into T ring filter into end this is basically a baader cc casing without lens no need to complicate things no need for a kind extension not required . https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-nosepiece-2-t-2.html

You’ll have no problem with focus I had a 200p and now a 200pds , now all you need is a Nikon T-ring m42 thread make is unimportant , and all I did to connect was , as standard on 200p they supply an adapter 1.25 inch that you insert your eyepiece, unscrew the very bottom section from the 1.25” barrel section ,it is the 2” piece that fits into focuser(no need for an extension) you need now you will see it is threaded m42 thread this now screws into the threads on the Tring m42 thread creating a nosepiece, attach Tring to camera that can now be inserted into the focus tube that’s all you do , if you buy a baader coma corrector you screw the barrel of that into the Trng instead of the piece from the skywatcher adapter , I too use a Nikon D5300 just use Iso 200 as this camera is iso invariant so no need to use a higher iso . If you use a 2” filter all I do is remove the glass and retaining ring from the 2” outer part and thread this into the camera side of the Tring usually they have two threads camera side m48 and opposite side m42 thread , just be careful and I use a plastic needle from my wife’s knitting to unthread the filter , if you use a baader cc then 2” can screw onto nosepiece , I prefer to fit to T ring as that keeps filter closer to sensor and also keeps dust out camera , currently I have an idas D2 filter fitted to my Tring hope this helps ,try to stick to a 2” nose to insert into telescope as this reduces vignetting when imaging . Note just seen your going to use a 2” T adapter so that’s fine just screw filter onto end , screw onto T ring and bobs your uncle your all set to image . Dave

Mines in the post 👍

Make sure server mode enabled Tools > enable server in phd2