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philhilo

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About philhilo

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    Star Forming

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    West Midlands, UK
  1. Great image and yes a hard target (or so i have found). 900s with RGB and f3.8 - do you live in the middle of Outer Mongolia or the North Pole, maybe the dark side of the moon?
  2. I have the clip in Canon D2, not cheap but effective in a bortle 8+ area when imaging broad band targets. Although the LEDs are broadband, I think there is an overall reduction in light pollution as the streetlight designs are more focused, the house fronts and gardens in the streets with LEDs are noticeably darker.
  3. i have come across this thread and am interested in the outcomes from adding a fan to the rear of a Newt for imaging My position is not about getting the OTA to ambient temperature as it lives outside, however I do have a problem with gradients in images, and I know some of these are caused by dew on the secondary and primary (despite being told its very rare for the primary to dew up, tell me that when I am stood with a hairdryer, again!). I have looked into secondary heating, but if I can do it with one mod then even better. I have read many articles extolling the virtues of a fan, cool down times, dew prevention, improved resolution due a disruption of the boundary layer on the primary (better when blowing rather than sucking). My concerns with the fan are three fold: How does it impact guiding - you are applying a force to the tube with the fan blowing, and with an elastic mount momentum during corrections? Can the vibration be eliminated sufficiently to not be seen in the images? I have spent time trying to stop light getting in through the rear of the OTA, can a fan be installed without compromising the light proofing? Cheers, Phil
  4. Cheers, I had started to think I might need to get a bigger secondary ...... just after I rebuilt the dang thing.
  5. Very nice, and gives me a chance to ask a fellow 200PDS owner about vignetting. I am using the ASI1600MM Pro with 36mm filters and the vignetting is heavy and offset causing me headaches when processing.
  6. If you have a look at Chuck Ayoubs Spaghetti on Astrobin its around 20 hours and he is in Detroit in an 8 I think. He was using an 80mm at around f5.
  7. Should be. I am using a generic coma corrector that doesn't act as a reducer, I figured it was fast enough and I wanted fl for galaxy imaging. Erling, I was most impressed by your image of M33, especially with your 200PDS/HEQ5 Pro/DSLR set up, the same as me. I thought Denmark was the land of eternal cloud, but I guess you at least have low light pollution unless you are in Copenhagen? Have you done any upgrades to your set up apart from the rowan belt mod? I still think the 200PDS is under rated, and it's a huge step up in price to get the same fl in a refractor or SCT, which is why I am trying to hypertune mine (also need all the help I can get in bortle 8), however I have finally gone for a mono astro cam as I was sick of trying to remove epic noise, just hoping it is the right decision going mono rather than OSC. Here is my 5 hour Whirlpool which I think is OK for the budget OTA 200PDS and a DSLR (just need to get processing nailed). M101final5hr.tiff
  8. The 200PDS has the tube slightly shortened for astro imaging to bring the focal point further out (I think) - one of the drawbacks with the 200P where the focuser can't rack in far enough for prime focus. They didn't bother to change the stickers on the side of the OTA. Astrophotography tool gives me a calculated fl of 911.8mm from plate solving images as I remember.
  9. Got it, the mirror is offset in the holder! Yes I left the mirror on the holder deliberately as I could clean it with it still attached (and more safely suspended in washing solution) and it was one less variable to deal with later. Thank you folks, hopefully ABs guide will get me through. Cheers.
  10. But alas as part of the flocking process I had to remove the secondary, spider and all, unscrewing the tensioning bolts that position the mirror. Now when I come to put it back I need to figure out if it was central or offset, assuming this was originally achieved by adjusting the spider? What I should have done was measure the position of the secondary before I removed it, emphasis on should have done!
  11. I have put on a Moonlite designed for 200mm Newts, seemed the way to go to reduce the diffraction spikes and better at holding my shiny new mono cam and efw ... allegedly.
  12. I have stripped, cleaned, flocked, masked the primary mirror clips, and put a new focuser on my SW 200PDS. Now I need to collimate (something I seemed to get away with before using a basic laser collimator), and the 1st step is ensuring I have the secondary in the right place - but where is the right place, central or offset? Astrobabys great instructions say consult the manufacturers instructions - there are instructions for the 200P - central, the Quattro - offset, but not the 200PDS which lies between the two in terms of aperture and focal length (Quattro fl 800 F4, PDS fl 900 f4.5, P fl 1000 F5). Any 200PDS users done a collimation from scratch?
  13. Interesting you say blue tinged nucleus, I was getting green in last nights images along with some others, suggestions it is off gassing CO2. Didn't see this in previous images.
  14. Took the whole family over to the Long Mynd and after some scary clouds was rewarded by a stunning couple of hours of the comet, and this was basically upstaged by the noctilucent clouds. Wow, what a night.
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