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almcl

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About almcl

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    Proto Star

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    Telford, Shropshire
  1. I found things improved markedly when I put a thin film of grease on the mount/tripod mating surfaces. This made smooth adjustment of the azimuth much easier. My mount seldom comes off the tripod so this works fine but if you have to remove the mount head every setup/take down an alternative might be a PTFE washer cut from a flat sheet?
  2. That's not quite what either system does. Polaris is near but not at the celestial pole but it is not what the mount is aiming at. Both Sharpcap and Polemaster require the mount to be rotated. They use this rotation of the stars in the field of view (not just Polaris) to work out what the mount appears to be rotating about and then calculate how far off the pole this is and give instructions to adjust the mount accordingly.
  3. Thank you so much for that, Frank! I just checked and sure enough, it was! Now back to unchecked
  4. I have a similar issue in APT, (win 10 and a Canon 700). An upgrade or so ago the displayed image started showing up randomly flipped. At the same time some of the lights are now displayed portrait rather than landscape style in File Explorer. Not sure if this is a camera issue, a Windows one or an APT problem or some combination of all three. Be interested to know if you find anything out?
  5. If you're into diy there is a cheaper option that will produce an equivalent result. It does involve soldering and making up brackets. Tom Carpenter's AstroEQ (here) can be made up and installed for about 1/3 the cost. You need a laptop or similar to run it but you get belt driven stepper motor accuracy and Goto when used with a planetarium program like Cartes du Ciel or Stellarium. I use one on my EQ5 when imaging with a 200mm lens.
  6. Not an expert but, if you take subs on different nights, you can put the lights and flats (and darks if you use them) for the different nights in the groups and DSS will process them individually before combining. This is helpful if you have dust bunnies that move between sessions, for example.,
  7. You seem to have got a lot of groups (4 in the screen shot). If the darks and flats are in different groups to the lights they won't be stacked. Try putting them in the same group as your lights, if they aren't already?
  8. Newtonians do tend to need collimation from time to time, and no 'one-size-fits-all' solution seems to find universal acclaim. So perhaps the first step would be to find out if yours needs adjusting? Using your highest powered eyepiece on a bright star in the exact centre of the field of view, defocus slightly and see how central the black 'doughnut' is in the bright ring. If they are concentric, like this: the mirrors don't need adjusting. If the star looks like this: then collimation might be worthwhile. But you may have two choices - leap in and start learning how to use a collimation tool OR try and adjust the red dot finder's position so that it lines up with the eyepiece. A small piece of cardboard or similar placed under one end of the red dot's finder shoe while the mounting screws are loose may be all that's needed to restore alignment and, if the views through the eyepiece are satisfactory, retighten the mounting screws and that may be all that's needed?
  9. You could try East Coast Binocular repairs. I used them a while ago and while they weren't particularly quick, the quality of the repair (on a 50 year old pair of Solar Ross binos) was outstanding.
  10. Hard to be sure from the photo but the RA clutch lever looks to be fully to the right. On my AZEQ6 this is the unlock position. Can you move it to the left at all?
  11. Only one night in six was any good this year. All using Astro modified Canon 700d My first attempt at a bi-colour, Ha and Oiii, the Witches Broom: Pickering's triangle: NGC 4565 Six panel mosaic of the Rosette: Four panel mosaic (using 200 mm Canon lens and Ha filter) of Sadir region:
  12. The second saddle comes with the original AZ EQ6 mount. You might find someone who only uses the mount in EQ mode would be prepared to sell?
  13. Olly, I am told that the 'teal' colouring (which my city lights suppression filter rather mangles) is actually genuine and caused by 'dominant OIII emissions - a rarity- , excited by the young O and B giants in the core' . The same source also tells me that I should always check such statements out for veracity. On this occasion I haven't, but it certainly sounds plausible. I have since reprocessed the data in more up-to-date stacking and post processing software and get a slightly different result. Think my capture skills may have improved but a bit less sure about the processing ones.
  14. Sounds like you've cracked it, but I think the artefact is present in the second sequence, just in a different place. Not sure if that affects the diagnosis or not?
  15. ISO 1600 and possibly before I started using a CLS CCD Filter (it might even have been pre-guiding!). It was with the 200P, as well.
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