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About almcl

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    Telford, Shropshire

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  1. Not sure how much of demand there would be, but I get through a fair number of Micro-B to Mini-B (tablet to DSLR) also referred to as USB OTG Cable. They are getting quite hard to find.
  2. almcl

    Polaris in transit.

    Glad it worked! You can change the polar reticule image (with a bit more fiddling) if it helps...
  3. almcl

    Polaris in transit.

    Not sure which Polar Finder App you are using in Windows, but Jason Dale's Polar Finder app (link) allows you to change the time interval between the four graphs it displays and by fiddling with the inerval you can get it to display a transit. Guessing your longitude at 3 31' 25" give a transit time tonight of 23:54
  4. The streaks may calibrate out with darks, but if you are able to dither that could also help to remove them at the stacking stage.
  5. Here's a very 'quick 'n dirty' process of your image in StarTools. You have some nice round stars and some good detail which, in my haste, I have slightly strangled - sorry! There is quite a strong cyan colour cast in the DSS output and you may find it worth upgrading to the latest version, 4.1.1 (downloadable here) not sure if it will fix the problem, but worth doing anyway. There is some 'walking noise' and while this can be addressed in processing software, it may be that by dithering, you will be able to eliminate it earlier in the process I hope that some of the more knowledgeable AP people (doesn't include me, I am afraid) will be along with some other suggestions.
  6. almcl

    How Can I Improve? 📷

    Looks like a result, John! Well done. Good that Happy-Kat and Carole have joined in, H-K has come up with a very clever technique for reducing star bloat in individual colour channels when using StarTools, and Carole's use of Photoshop shows there's definitely more than one way to process the data! As Olly P said recently, the processing can be the fun part, once you have the tools.
  7. almcl

    How Can I Improve? 📷

    The workflow was Autodev (to see what's there - no intention of keeping the result) Crop (to remove edge artefacts) Bin (normally to reduce oversampling on my rig but just to speed things up here) Wipe Develop (84% Digital Development, 10 (ish) Dark Anomaly Filter) Mask (Auto, Selection Mode Highlights>Threshold set the threshold to 47%) Decon Sharp (Amount 342%) Clear Mask HDR (Optimise hard) Contrast (Defaults) Mask the nebula Life (Isolate, strength 75%, mask 39.9) Colour (Cap green to yellow, then play around with red and blue sliders to taste) Switch off tracking setting grain size to 12 px in the wavelet denoise option At this point I used a new star mask and the repair module to make the stars a bit rounder but perhaps not necessary. If it helps, I'll post the full log?
  8. almcl

    How Can I Improve? 📷

    The .fits file appears incomplete, so I've used the /tif. See what you think? For speed I cropped the image quite a bit and binned it 50%.
  9. almcl

    How Can I Improve? 📷

    OK, I'll certainly have a go.
  10. almcl

    How Can I Improve? 📷

    John you mention StarTools, so as a very much non-expert user I had a play with your M51 jpeg image using it. Result below - I think it might have produced a better esult using an unstretched, original .fits file. There were some unusual artefacts on the right hand side which, for speed I just cropped out, but I think there's quite a bit more data to be pulled out. You can download a fully functional copy of ST from the website, for free - save is disabled (but screen grabs are possible) and there's no time limit, but you can see if it meets the need. There is a bit of a learning curve and it's not for everyone but there are some good tutorials on how it works now and the creator, Ivo, is usually pretty helpful to newcomers. In the image I looked at I can't see coma (didn't look very hard, in truth) although in the Horsehead Alnitak may be suffering from focus tube intrusion - I fixed this on my Explorer 200P with a cutting disk - but the puzzle I don't understand is why your flats aren't dealing with vignetting? Maybe a topic for another thread?
  11. Lots of good advice given above, so just to say that you have actually captured the nebula and with a stretch (and a crop) of your jpeg image, it shows up. The Deep Sky Stacker .tif or .fits file would probably allow more to be drawn out.
  12. I now have a focuser. MODERATORS please could you close this, as I can't see any way of doing it myself?
  13. Yes, i really do want the original focuser for a Skywatcher 200P. Anyone who has upgraded got one they could spare?
  14. I have acquired a Canon specific OAG. It has the Canon bayonet on the rear face and a T2 thread into which my SW Coma corrector goes. The flange for attaching the guide camera is also T2 (male) and this has an unfortunate consequence: it is impossible to fit or remove the OAG from the Canon without first removing said flange. This destroys the guide camera focus as well as being particularly fiddly as it requires a 2mm Allen key on 3 black grub screws buried under black anodised components in the dark. It occurs to me that if I could find a flange plate that is CS thread sized (my guide camera is a QHY5Lii) this problem could be overcome. Unfortunately such a thing doesn't appear to exist or at least Zoltan at 365 Astronomy, who supplied me with a CS/T2 adapter, hasn't managed to come up with one. So next choice is to have one made. Somebody posted about an engineering concern that they had used to have small parts made, but, although I have searched I can't now find the post. I have also tried creating the part in Sketchup with a view to getting one of the commercial concerns to print one, but as I haven't yet mastered creating the CS thread (1-32 UN 2A ANSI B1.1) on the outside of the flange and have reservations about how accurate the 3D print would be, haven't ventured down this route so far. In case anyone is still reading, I would welcome suggestions on how to achieve something like the part shown below by whatever means.

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