bottletopburly

if he flips the cc you can see it on underside they say a measurement of 55mm for m42 and 57mm for m48 apparently look for +1mm on those measurements ,on my nikon T ring adapter i used the knurled ring as a spacer to give me an extra 2mm thickness on the tring m48 to make it 11.5 mm +46.5mm for nikon backfocus giving me 58mm

The underside piece has two slots on a mk3 mpcc slot a dinner knife across and unscrew that becomes an m48 thread now all you need is a m48 TRing , using the m42 is known to cause vignetting something I didn’t realise until @alacantinformed me of it .

oh dear you really need to get that off imo

Using an m48 T ring may give you a few mm needed as you may need more outfocus , just unscrew end out , see picture

Ah your looking for 55mm you have it on a m42 adapter which causes vignetting I will update with photo shortly

so you have removed the m42 adapter from the cc to use on a m48 T ring

What measurement do you have with mpcc canon + 44mm Nikon 46.5 mm plus your T ring measurement which is 55mm for m42 fitting or 57mm for m48 fitting both +/- 1mm photo shows my Nikon T ring measurement which I’m currently fine tuning 46.5 mm +11.5mm =58mm

I use a baader mk3 note the skywatcher one reduces the fov , you may need to tweak the baader one though .

I took it into a photographic shop cost £30

Guessing a Newtonian and drawtube stick through ota clipping light path

What scope are you using

ASTAP 23 lights 1 master dark sigma clip average bilinear interpolation 945 sec i 5 processor ssd drive nikon d5300 raws analyse organise and stack

Dave Astap has a ccd inspector in its tools menu if you already have that .

Startools is excellent and if your struggling with photoshop or the like then is definitely worth trying , I personally didn’t get photoshop too complicated for me stretching levels and curves there no doubt it’s an excellent program but not for me , Startools will give you good results just take time to read settings for the stacker you use , and take calibration frames flats and bias and dither using a dslr 👍.

Just installed a secondary dew heater made by 4Tronix from first light optics , easily installed, wire could be Longer in my opinion so a short tail then an extension plugs in to join to your dew heater I may email 4tronix see if they can do a single cable to required length ,also modified a screw hole used to hold plastic trim in on end of ota to hide wire else you can’t put end cap on scope , now just need to check collimation after re installing focuser with trimmed draw tube.

Old post but did you ever get it installed and running ?.

There’s no reason why you can’t run indigosky independently , looks like the dslr driver working https://www.indigo-astronomy.org/indigo-sky.html

Apt hasn’t finished the required work to work with dslr via indigo sky/ via apt server yet pencilled in v 3.90 @Yoddha can confirm this

I’m assuming the stacked fits can be stacked together from multiple nights of the same target maybe @han59 can help .

If you load dark flats , analyse and in flats analyse and calibrate to leave a master flat calibrated with your DF frames try loading your bias frames in your darks tab analyse and calibrate to leave you with a master dark , see how that turns out once lights stacked , I only do each step separately as a work flow leaving lights last to analyse and stack .

I’ve been using Astap recently, I’m not too bothered about speed , I only need it to stack , I like you can calibrate flats on its own too and master dark before loading lights , you don’t need to tinker too much with the setting , how are you loading files in Astap are you loading bias as darks if dithering , are you calibrating flats with bias ,

I just had one cut by laser master , just drawtube to trim

Excellent 👍 I had a wren nest in my garden and never knew until I chopped a conifer down it was an old nest though , I used to hear and see it but never realised it had nested .

Quote I read on astrobin from Astap wether tilt is within tolerance Sensor tilt as the percentage ratio between the best and worst corner median values. In addition as an graphical indication it draws an trapezium in the image based on the four median values.There can be some variation in images of the same series, so a tilt of maybe 20% looks normal but anything more indicates a camera mounting problem. The lower the value the better. The unit if expressed in delta HFD.

Astap has a ccd inspector for measuring tilt built into its tools menu