bottletopburly

I know this comes up many times , so I have eyeballed the measurement on my canon which has a 10mm t ring m42 and with a ruler looks like 55mm my Nikon d5300 Tring for m42 thread is 8.5mm thick and looks like it’s 53mm for those using a Nikon with mk3 cc are you adding a 2mm m42 spacer to achieve 55mm , I had thought my stars looking slightly coma using on my 200pds so decided to measure .

The t_adapter threads need to match the same as coma corrector , you need to take off that mid section

Can you take a picture of your camera with adapters in place ready to insert into focus tube and a picture of your focuser

I’m sure Startools developer Ivo Jager @jager945 may be up for showcasing the excellent Startools 1.7 maybe .

This may help

Maybe @han59 will be able to help with Astap

Go for a desiccant type as in previous post made to work in low temperatures

This video may be helpful

My what a lot of satellites, bearing in mind I removed all satellites and just left Starlink satellites showing

No

Sorted my bad ,trying to press add instead of Save .

I tried adding starlink to Stellarium using this tutorial but after pasting the starlink url as per video I can’t add, as button greyed out has anyone done this in the latest release

I would recommend installing Astrophotographytool ,https://www.astrophotography.app/ though not sure on using the Pentax with APT , I think there is a work around but you would need to check with Ivo @Yoddhaon APT forum , (I’d probably look for a cheap canon body tbh less hassle )then you could connect camera to pc and image indoors , this would let you platesove so no need for star alignment though you still need to polar align using Sharpcap which is very good .

I acquired a 130pds in a deal which unfortunately had too much chopped off I fixed it by supergluing 6mm of tube to the end of drawtube and fitting a grub screw to the flat surface on draw tube slightly in front of the stop to act as a new stop so drawtube can’t fall off support rollers .

Try blindsilving some previous images you have taken saves frustration on the night .

Wind out draw tube until it hits stop now look in ota the protruding tube is the max to cut off it’s only about 10mm to much and tube will run on rollers supporting drawtube before it hits drawtube stop .

I you dither 10-12 pixels then Darks not required just bias and flats ,bias you can do every now and again three or four times of year and flats on the night,time saver .

i have attached my data work flow ,im using 1.7.455 in the shrink module it has an unglow feature which is handy , create a mask containing nebula and use unglow that works well any questions just ask ,looking through the work flow will give you an idea of work flow, ignore blocks of code better to use auto dev create a ROI covering just the nebula. sgl user data.txt

i see your previous post you ate using APT then try davids tutorial and use ASTAP as the solver ,never used astrotilla myself so cant help there .

Certainly is ,Startools really starting to shine now

i have similar distance using a Nevada unit no problems 13.8v at pier powering a Eq6 camera ,autofocuser ,guide camera ,dew controller wires running underground to pier .

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Run through Startools 1.7.456 looks nice to me

Nice image russ , try redoing flats just refocus ,the orientation doesn’t change on a lens and recommend a sensor clean skears in Northampton do a nice job 👍

Can’t see your signature but dithering with a dslr is beneficial to eliminate walking noise ,I use Apt this communicates with phd2, more subs the better will help too .