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Imaging with the 130pds


Russe

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6 hours ago, edarter said:

Another M42, I'm quite happy with this one! 3hrs of data over 2 nights at the start of Feb when the moon was not about.

 

Beautiful! really nice framing. Did you use a LP filter?  

 

I had my first try with the L extreme Filter (got it used for 215€, condition like new 😇 )

This is only 1h40min, because of my limited view in south direction. So its quite noisy. I hope to add another 2-3 hours this season.

130PDS,1200Da, EQ3 Pro, 10x10min@ISO1600

The moon was not too far from this object and my south sky is pretty light polluted, so im impressed. No DBE was needed.

Rosette Nebula in HOO:

rosette3.thumb.jpg.c0db8d7f015f9064d13edd4d038d3e40.jpg

 

Same night i did 2 hours on Leo Triplet, getting ready for galaxy season. (Hopefully with better weather)

leon.thumb.jpg.9ccc96486a4f2fb964e794c7c4f74995.jpg

 

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Another image from last week, M108 & M97, but this time I used APP and gimp. 

I’ve been wanting to image these two together and finally managed to get a decent image.

130pds, eq5 

canon 1100d, 95x45s, iso 1600

29E9B2E7-3502-406C-B004-3360824E18E5.jpeg

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5 hours ago, Bibabutzemann said:

Beautiful! really nice framing. Did you use a LP filter?  

 

I had my first try with the L extreme Filter (got it used for 215€, condition like new 😇 )

Thank you, yes I did, always seem to need an LP filter despite my location 'only' being Bottle 5. I get some horrid gradients and colour cast otherwise. I use the Astronomic CLS clip in for my EOS600D.

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7 hours ago, edarter said:

Thank you, yes I did, always seem to need an LP filter despite my location 'only' being Bottle 5. I get some horrid gradients and colour cast otherwise. I use the Astronomic CLS clip in for my EOS600D.

I think even in Bortle 5 it still makes sense to use a LP filter because its a lot easier to deal with Gradients. This is especially the case  for nebula which cover the whole framing and proper background extraction is really hard to do.

I asked because i also used the CLS filter and recognized the warm tone of your picture.

Its purely preference, but i always  lowered the temperature a good amount to get closer to RGB colors.

 

 

 

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We had a couple of hours of clear skies the other night so I rushed to set up at 10pm to try and get some imaging in, but of course the clouds rolled in sooner.

 I did manage about a half hour on M38. I had wanted to take different exposure times to see how how long I could get before the stars got ugly. I got as far as 30s due to clouds lol.

Here is 59x30s at iso 1600.

Eq5,SW130pds, canon 1100d.

darks and bias, no flats

 I stacked using both DSS and APP and found I got better results with APP, which I will buy once the trial time is up.

2FD65CCF-3783-4429-9C57-F8FD6B804A61.jpeg

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I had a very similar story to Rob above.
This was my first bash at imaging with the 130P-DS and with a new-to-me CG5 mount (thanks to everyone across the two threads I posted recently for help with both focuser and mount!) I wish I'd spent longer and there was some light cloud drifting across throughout the session but I got an image out of it so no complaints 🙂

M45
75x45s
20 darks
20 bias
20 (wrong) flats - made w/camera lens a couple of weeks ago. I was lazy - I wanted to use the SiriL automated script
450d
Stacked and a bit of processing in SiriL and a few curves in Photoshop

m45two6s.jpg

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Hi everyone

This is with the cheepo no-name cc which gives ~585mm. Not nearly as good as the gpu, but gives the wider field which just manages to squeeze these four into the frame.

Thanks for looking and do post your 130-dslr galaxies.

700d @ ISO800 siril 1.0.0 startools 1.8.525

 

2-81 (1)_01.jpg

Edited by alacant
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That is beautiful and a standard to aim for.

I had my second attempt with the 130p-ds. My daughter said that Orion was her favourite nebula - none of my ids have shown any interest in astronomy up to now - and so I had to try and get an image while I could; it's begun to disappear behind the trees at the bottom of the garden earlier and earlier in the evening. Looking at the forecast Sunday evening might have been the last chance I get in full darkness.

I know I blew out the core but that is something I can work on in the Autumn. I'm pretty chuffed with it as it's been a few years since I last had a scope that I could think about doing this with. Stars at the edge are showing the effect of trying to stack a 60x30s image with a 60x60s image. Photoshop didn't align them perfectly at the edges.

m42edit4.thumb.jpg.c037473ef0209dacf5f0406061a85669.jpg

 

Edited by heathenwoods
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6 minutes ago, DrMike said:

Brilliant, and quite beautiful.  

Thank you. More time added to this will hopefully bring out more of the detail in the dust that surrounds the main structure of the nebula instead of it looking like a murky brown background 😃

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Hello, my orion taken in the midlde of red zone from simple balcony. 2:30 hr total integration time, 2 nights in row. Asi 553mc, zwo duo-band filter and avx mount 50x180sec.

I love this scope :)

m42 650mm.jpg

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Had a little experiment after reading a few things.

Instead of the usual 2 or 3 min subs I use I tried 30 sec subs to limit the noise due to my local light pollution (bortle 7)

Seems to work really well, although takes a LOT longer to stack!!

 

130pds

Altair 269c Tec

Bresser Exos 2 using Onstep

256 x 30sec

Stacked in DSS and processed in Startools.

 

 

m5130secgo2~4.png

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What would cause the stars in only one corner to be elongated? I know if it’s only one side, top and bottom, then it’s an off center issue. I already installed the TS Optics compression ring which took care of that problem, but I still get some bad stars only in one corner. One time it’s in the lower left, then it’s to the lower right side. The stars in the rest of the corners are round. 
The imaging train has not been touched, canon t3 with MPCC.

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1 hour ago, Heizel said:

Compression rings are also not a best way. Try to drill a third hole in a stock part and add a another screw. That may help 

The compression ring actually is working much better. The stock ring would get loose  and not stay screwed on tight. 
i don’t think it would cause only one corner to have elongated stars. But I could be wrong lol

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5 hours ago, Rob F said:

TS Optics compression ring

Which also needs a third screw tapping. Compression rings with the Baader cc undercut are bad news.

So that the compression ring fits fully in the cc groove, lose the M42 adapter and attach the cc directly via its m48 thread. Or, better, as @Heizelsuggests, go back to the original collar and tap a third screw there instead.

Cheers and HTH

 

 

Edited by alacant
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