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Imaging with the 130pds


Russe

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@alacant I was afraid to adjust the spider vanes, but it seem to do the trick! Much better now.

Update1: I managed to collimate the scope, finally. Took a whole week but I've learned a lot about collimation.
Image session is running right now, and the starfield is looking good!

Update 2: I did a more precise adjustment of the spider vanes today in daylight and now the whole image train literally snapped into place and ligned up perfectly.

Edited by Andyy
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New owner of this tiny set of mirrors here! 

After searching for some time, the good guys at APM-Telescopes managed to get a couple of units of the 130PDS, and there I was this afternoon to get the first one! 

I have been inspired by this thread while looking for an affordable scope with shorter FL (to increase the "/px ratio a bit). And here it is!

Tomorrow I will check the collimation and will try to mount all the attachments (imaging, guiding and focusing gear). I am afraid the balancing is going to be tricky, but I will surely find a solution. 

First light to be posted ASAP.

Thanks to all for your involuntary motivation.

PS: honestly, I haven't been able to read all the posts; I gave up around page 60 😔

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On 26/10/2021 at 16:26, alacant said:

Hi everyone

Here is a HOO of ngc1499 from a UHC filter with the moon very close by. The filter does a great job on excluding the glare.

Thanks for looking and do post if you've had a go. We'd be particularly interested in dslr + UHC/L-eNhance/L-exTreme combinations.

eos700d on 130pds + GPUcc ~10h 30  @ ISO800

 2-1499-1.thumb.jpg.c2743d931ee28aa828bf41d308335732.jpg

***EDIT. An in-your-face version. Not sure...

1698768624_2-1499(1)_02.thumb.jpg.873f8d349f4367499d26c71cf46c96cb.jpg

I like the in your face version.

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On 11/11/2021 at 05:38, Bibabutzemann said:

M82, M81 & NGC3077

Equipment: 130PDS, EQ3 Pro, EOS 1200Da @ISO1600 

4h with the L2-Filter, 4h with the NBZ Filter for HA Data

 

m81_4HA.thumb.jpg.929c3a80592a7f163d8342ea386662b0.jpg

Beautiful. I really love the colours! Hope to get pictures like yours soon :)

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12 hours ago, Tan Zhi Qi said:

Beautiful. I really love the colours! Hope to get pictures like yours soon :)

Thank you, thats too kind 🙂

I think it helped a lot, that it was really cold outside (around 3°C)

During the summer my EOS 1200D becomes a noisy mess. 

 

I wonder if anyone of you added a scale on the focuser for exact rotations. Or any other solution that makes it easier to handle multi session imaging.

I sometimes struggle to replicate the exact same camera orientation.

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54 minutes ago, Bibabutzemann said:

struggle to replicate the exact same camera orientation.

Hi

If you're planning multiple sessions, simply leave the camera attached. 

If you really have to remove the camera, mark its position using adhesive tape applied to the interface between the camera and focuser that it be replaced in the same orientation.

Cheers

 

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On 17/11/2021 at 20:58, alacant said:

Hi

If you're planning multiple sessions, simply leave the camera attached. 

If you really have to remove the camera, mark its position using adhesive tape applied to the interface between the camera and focuser that it be replaced in the same orientation.

Cheers

 

Im a beginner and have this problem. Can't rotation be displayed via software for dslr? 

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My first foray into narrowband - The Wizard nebula, combining Ha with RGB. Also trying out APP which, while not substantially an improvement on DSS on initial tests, handled the H-Alpha much better. So, that's going to be my next investment. 

* 3:50 hours of H-Alpha from 46x300s subs
* 6:30 hours of RGB at ISO800 from 78x300s subs
* Bortle 4, Moon 16% phase, 45° height
* 25 flats, 25 dark flats, 50 darks
* Sky-Watcher 130PDS with primary baffle, NEQ6 with Rowan belt, EOS1000D minus IR filter, 7nm H-Alpha filter, 0.9x coma corrector, APT, PHD2, APP, StarTools, Topaz DeNoise AI

 

997071261_Honeyview_wizardHa.thumb.jpg.3cf470b5f05852dddd54e1667756129d.jpg

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And my second Ha image! The Pacman nebula.

* 8:45 hours of H-Alpha from 105x300s subs
* 2:49 hours of RGB at ISO800 from top 90% of 47x240s subs
* Bortle 4, Moon 58% phase, 61° height
* 25 flats, 25 dark flats, 50 darks
* Sky-Watcher 130PDS with primary baffle, NEQ6 with Rowan belt, EOS1000D minus IR filter, 7nm H-Alpha filter, 0.9x coma corrector, APT, PHD2, APP, StarTools, Photoshop, Topaz DeNoise AI

83662304_Honeyview_pacmanhacalibs2.thumb.jpg.c67a7e5b37cb163ea6fc2695895f5b09.jpg

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Managed to grab 3.5 hours on the pacman nebula on Wednesday with the 130. Flats haven't corrected properly so this is something I'm going to have to look into. I shot the lights using a home made dew shield which I removed to take the flats. Would this make a difference? I'm assuming not? 

 

Pacman 3.jpg

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I have read that you should leave everything in place to take the flats (including the dew shield). However, I always remove the dew shield and rest the screen on the OTA pointing towards the zenith. Never had any issues doing it this way.

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3 hours ago, Clarkey said:

I have read that you should leave everything in place to take the flats (including the dew shield). However, I always remove the dew shield and rest the screen on the OTA pointing towards the zenith. Never had any issues doing it this way.

Thanks, that's exactly what I did. I may try shooting the flats again and see what result I get 👍

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10 minutes ago, BrendanC said:

That's what I do too, although I've also taken my flats with the dew shield in place and it made no difference.

@Stuf1978 Great Pacman shot btw. What camera did you use?

 

Thanks, I used a ZWO ASI294MC Pro with an Optolong L-eXtreme filter. It could do with way more data if I'm honest but getting any imaging in with the way the weather is at the minute is a bonus. 

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On 10/03/2014 at 11:57, Russe said:

Hi guys,

having fallen in love with my 130pds, and seeing that I'm not the only one recently, I was thinking it would be nice if we posted our images made with a 130pds here.

It gives a nice reference point as well, as to what could be achievable (with better guiding, better camera, better weather...).

Well, here goes:

Excellent shots with a cheapish camera & OTA, i was looking at the 130 myself but have decided to try the

TAL-1, currently have one winging its way to me from ebay for £21 and am bidding on 2 more just to hedge my bets on the state of the mirrors. 

I have yet to decide on a larger tracking mount but my starter set will be the TAL-1 & a EOS 6D which so far is under £400, i have just recieved my sky watcher adventurer but dont think it will take the weight of the OTA.

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22 hours ago, Budding Star Gazer said:

Excellent shots with a cheapish camera & OTA, i was looking at the 130 myself but have decided to try the

TAL-1, currently have one winging its way to me from ebay for £21 and am bidding on 2 more just to hedge my bets on the state of the mirrors. 

I have yet to decide on a larger tracking mount but my starter set will be the TAL-1 & a EOS 6D which so far is under £400, i have just recieved my sky watcher adventurer but dont think it will take the weight of the OTA.

Reading about the Tal-1 has been interesting. A once, very highly, regarded starter observing scope. 

You might however find that standard 1.25mm eyepieces/attachments don't fit the focuser tube as the Russians used their own sizes pre 94.

You also might find that the OTA requires some modification to achieve prime focus. At £21 though, I don't suppose you'll care if you have to cut a couple of inches off the bottom and move the primary mirror up.

Good luck with it. 👍

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3 hours ago, Jamgood said:

Reading about the Tal-1 has been interesting. A once, very highly, regarded starter observing scope. 

You might however find that standard 1.25mm eyepieces/attachments don't fit the focuser tube as the Russians used their own sizes pre 94.

You also might find that the OTA requires some modification to achieve prime focus. At £21 though, I don't suppose you'll care if you have to cut a couple of inches off the bottom and move the primary mirror up.

Good luck with it. 👍

Yes i have read they are not standardised, i have really purchased it for the mirrors and will mod it with a new focuser if need be, its going to be for imaging rather than observing. 

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Making progress with my 130pds. I'm using the Baader MPCC and I've fitted the mirror edge ring baffle. The focus tube protrudes about 20mm inside the main tube when I am at focus.

The two images below were from last night. SW AZ-EQ5 mount, Nikon Z50 camera, 30 second exposures. Stacked in Affinity Photo, Astroflat Pro, Topaz DeNoise AI

Can anyone suggest why I have triangular stars?

Triangulum Galaxy 81x30s...

M33-2.thumb.jpg.a018668a8d5c9b3f681e45f8603e4f2b.jpg

 

Running Man and Orion Nebulae 72X30s...

OrionNebula-2.thumb.jpg.cba30ac54f322525fcf17aeb400287f4.jpg

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Hi

Lovely shots.

1 hour ago, Jim Smith said:

triangular stars

i see some 'D's and some triangles, so in this order and with a % probability 80:10:9:1, my vote goes to:

  1. Focus tube intrusion:  saw about 10mm from the end which intrudes.
  2. Primary mirror clips too tight. Remove them and fix the mirror with silicone sealant instead or loosen them.
  3. The 2 element Baader suffers astigmatism: use the m48 connection with a 4mm spacer to give you around 58mm backfocus. Fine tune from there, usually further than the 58mm.
  4. Something else.

Cheers and HTH

Edited by alacant
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