g-rex

Thanks for the replies and ideas. Appreciate the offers but turns out someone I know has a lathe so he's going to sort them for me 🙂 malc-c the ratio is 5 to 1 (60 tooth and 12 tooth) Its going to be running on Onstep so it's just a case of re-flashing the chip with the correct number of steps. Onstep have a calculator for this and it worked ace when I went from eq3-2 to eq5. I think the Rowan mod is 5.2 to 1 so it's pretty close. Thanks again 👍

I'm currently converting an old (black) Heq5 to Onstep. It's pretty much done and awaiting testing. My main issue has been getting a pulley wheel to fit due to the worm shaft being 9mm and pulleys only available with a bore of 8mm or 10mm. I've initially put a 10mm on and shimmed it but it's not perfect and I'd much prefer a proper fit. Long shot but I wondered if anybody knew of a supplier who may sell a 9mm wheel or have the tools to bore out a 8mm? Thanks.

Brilliant help, thanks! I haven't really had a chance to try again since my initial go but my issue was getting each panel the same brightness. I had used Siril to do a background extraction and a colour calibration, but I hadn't stretched them. I opened these up in Gimp and applied the same stretch to each panel but they weren't exactly the same. I didn't think of getting R, G, B all the same so that's a top tip. I'll also see if Gimp has an equivalent of equalise. Really appreciate the advice. Thanks again.

Originally yes. I was going to bring each panel in as a layer and adjust the transparency and line them up. But, I have now found Microsoft ICE which seems a far easier (and probably better) way.

I'm about to dip my toe into doing a mosaic of the veil nebula. I just wondered if there is some sort of 'standard operating procedure' to processing? I'm guessing the way to go is process each panel then stitch together? Any advice to point me along the right path would be greatly appreciated. Am using DSS, Siril and Gimp currently. Also have Startools. Thanks

A few from the last few sessions. All took with, 130 PDS. Exos 2 using Onstep Altair 269c Pro Tec APT, DSS and Startools

Had a little experiment after reading a few things. Instead of the usual 2 or 3 min subs I use I tried 30 sec subs to limit the noise due to my local light pollution (bortle 7) Seems to work really well, although takes a LOT longer to stack!! 130pds Altair 269c Tec Bresser Exos 2 using Onstep 256 x 30sec Stacked in DSS and processed in Startools.

Managed to save enough for a cooled camera. Bit of a jump from my self modded 450d! Still learning but it's looking promising. Altair 269c Pro Tec Eq5 using Onstep 1.5hrs of 3min subs

Thanks. I'll try updating the firmware as you suggest. I use it as a guide cam not for imaging. It's worked flawlessly on my older laptop. Thanks for the help.

This plus a l-enhance filter. Can't wait for dark nights now.

Yes it is a ZWO clone and does use the ZWO drivers. I have it working perfectly on my other laptop and it works through a raspberry pi also so I know it's not the camera. Will try deleting all traces of it and try again as you suggest. Thanks

Bought the kids a laptop to use for school during lockdown. Decided to now use it as my imaging laptop as it's better than my old one. I have a T7c that I use as a guide cam but can't get any software to recognise it's there. Laptop makes sound when I plug it in and it shows up in Device Manager as a ZWO cam but with this error "This device cannot start. (Code 10) Insufficient system resources exist to complete the API." Have tried different USB ports, uninstalled and re-installed driver. Restarted several times but to no avail. Just wondered if anybody had come across this before and had an answer? Thanks

I struggle with processing but have got my guiding up and running. These are all 3 min subs with a self modded Canon 450d on an eq5 running Onstep

Many thanks to all the replies. Some extremely interesting ones and some that went a little over my (noob) head. The Pi route is one I would definitely consider for the future. It seems whilst people have their favourite for their own reasons there isn't a whole lot of difference. I think I'm going to give APT a go. If I end up not liking it I've got the option of Kstars to fall back to. That's if we ever get a clear night again! Thanks Graeme

@JonCarleton as far as I'm aware Kstars won't connect locally on Windows. Only wirelessly to a mini pc at the scope? @teoria_del_big_bang I totally agree about Kstars being quite light as a planetarium. It almost put me off initially after using Stellarium, but the fact that everything is under one roof so to speak (even the guiding works okay) made me stick it out. Also once I've done a go-to and started imaging that's the planetariums job done. Also it's only light aesthetically I suppose. It works well. Plate solving will be a game changer for me and it works fantastic on Kstars - not that I have anything to compare it to. I think I may stick with what I know. It's just that voice on my shoulder saying I may be missing out on something 😂

Thanks for the reply. The processing machine I use runs Windows and I use DSS and PS. It was more that I'm used to Kstars for imaging and didn't really want to learn new imaging software unless there was a solid reason for doing so. By the sound of your answer it seems six of one and half a dozen of the other?

I've recently started imaging via an ancient laptop I have running Ubuntu. I'm using Kstars and Phd2 and find they work fine. The laptop is on its last legs though. I've now have a spare windows laptop. With all the cloudy nights I've hooked it up to the scope and seem to have APT and Phd2 working (although a night out under the stars is needed to fully test that theory!) This laptop won't be used for processing. My question is to those who have tried both operating systems, are there any benefits to using Windows software over Ubuntu? If not I'm thinking of installing Ubuntu on this one also instead of learning a new piece of software. Thanks

Decided to use the guide cam in the main scope to image the moon the other night. First time I've done this as usually a DSO and DSLR person. I ended up with around a 1000 frames and plucked a figure of best 60% to stack. I just wondered if this was too high and I should be going for a lot lower? Less is more? I understand that different seeing conditions would alter it but was just after a rough starting figure from those who know a bit more. Thanks in advance

I've decided to start guiding on my 130pds but am unsure as to which guider scope would be suitable. Looked at some 50mm ones but was wondering if 30mm would be okay as it would mean quite a weight saving. Thanks.

Brillant. That's a 50mm guide so I know what size i need. Thanks for the links, had seen the T7 recently and wondered about that. Thanks.

Morning people. With this being all about the 130 PDS I thought this may be the best place to ask this question. I'm using a 130pds on a belt modded exos 2 (eq5). I'm thinking of starting to acquire the bits for guiding and wondered what length guide scope would suit best? Am on a tight budget too so any links to cheap items would be greatly appreciated 😊.

Depending how handy you are, have a look at the Onstep Goto. The only negative is you have to build it yourself. Mainly soldering. I got a kit of all the components and got the rest from eBay. All in its cost me about £100. A lot cheaper than a manufacturer's Goto, and the big plus is it's transferable to different mounts. I had it on my eq3-2 originally but now it's on my eq5. Works brilliantly. Just another option. 🙂

I'd like to second Stub Mandrels post. Yes, to do consistently good AP you need a good, expensive mount first. But not everybody (myself included has the pockets for that). That doesn't mean you can't do AP. It just means you have a steep learning curve and need to work at it. You also need to lower your expectations of what your final images will look like. But you CAN image on less. I have a used eq3-2 mount. I've had some reasonable (in my eyes) results. Other nights I've spent 3 hours learning what not to do with nothing to show for it. But I'm having fun, and when I can afford that Heq5 then I'll have already made all my mistakes, I hope. Buy what you can afford, learn and have fun is my advice.

A few images from my setup. Eq3-2 now equipped with Onstep Goto Skywatcher 130pds Nikon D3100 M51, M13 and the moon. Still getting to grips with processing but having loads of fun learning 😁

I have just this week finished my Onstep build for my eq3-2. I believe it's a fantastic bit of kit which is way, way cheaper than Skywatchers own upgrade with the added benefit of being able to transfer it to my next mount when I can afford one. As to guiding, well I don't guide but people on the Onstep forum do. My understanding is that guiding isn't done through Onstep but through PHD. Your best bet would be to ask on their forum. Hope this helps.