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Found 80 results

  1. For sale is my beloved but now superfluous to requirements HEQ5 Pro for £700 It's in a used condition as you would imagine. I've had it for about 4 years and found great success with this mount. Ideal for those beginning astrophotography and also good for visual users. I'm calling it "deluxe" due to the upgrades I've had done. - It's belt modified - It's had brand new bearings and grease - The backlash has been expertly setup - It has the latest polar scope - The power port has been replaced with an aviation style port which is a lot more secure It'll come with the hand controller and at least 1 counterweight (if I can find the second it'll come with both). The polar scope cover has been lost. The counterweight is rusty as always. There is some marring on the counterweight bar housing as shown in the photos. It also will come with the modified power cable required also. Note: the power LED sometimes doesn't illuminate but the mount is still powered (please see the photo with the hand controller). Collection or local delivery within Northampton
  2. Last week I discovered a reasonably wobble on the RA axis on my HEQ5 which ended up causing lots of double stars on my subs (i am guessing because the mount kept wobbling between the two positions.) So I did the worm gear adjustment and the wobble seems to have disappeared. I did a full slew rotation check and couldn't tell any binding/grinding (I had binding at 1st attempt but was resolved after further adjustments). Thanks to the clear skies last few nights, I had it running throughout the night 3 times now. My overall guiding is much better than before, averaging between 0.6 and 0.8 Total error. However, when the mount gets closer to the home position (usually after 2-3am), I seem to start having tracking issues. I have attached screenshots to show examples; sometimes it's trailing, sometimes it's double stars, and sometimes it makes a u-turn to track back to the original position. PHD log files from another night are here: https://openphdguiding.org/logs/dl/PHD2_logs_tych.zip Is this a balance issue that becomes apparent when the mount is more vertical? I'm relatively new to using this mount, so most of my previous sessions have been closer to the meridian. Or is my worm gear tightened just a bit too much and causing issues? I can't really hear anything wrong when slewing at high speed. Only other thing i can think of is, I sometimes get error messages on PHD but pulse command being ineffective, but these happen at other times as well without causing any issues. It's losing me 7-8 frames over the span of 2.5 hours, so it would be nice to get it resolved if anyone has any ideas? Thanks
  3. I know it may be a bit of a long shot but I'm looking to buy a HEQ5 Pro mount or an NEQ6 Pro or something similar. Preferably belt driven but not necessary as can happily modify it. Please let me know if you have anything! Thanks.
  4. After trying and failing some time ago to find a video tutorial on how to strip-down my Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro mount, clean all the bearings and gears, re-grease them, and put it all back together again, I eventually learned how to do this from various other online resources and have now created my own video tutorial. For those of you with a Skywatcher HEQ5 or HEQ5 Pro mount, or indeed an Orion Sirius EQ-G mount (which is the same mechanically), this video can help you to keep you mount running smoothly through regular DIY servicing (~every 2 years). I hope you find it useful. Here is the link...
  5. Today after the midnight I recorded the spectrum of C/2020 F3 (Neowise). I couldn't change new diffraction grating (300 l/mm) before the midnight in my Low Spec 2 spectrograph. I have printed second unmodified mounting for grating and I had to use it, because dispersion angles are different than the 1800 l/mm diffraction grating. It was also necessary to assemble and run the setup. Not all lines were identified, the spectrum is different than spectra published on the internet. The violet range is worse due to the poor correction of chromatic aberration in achromatic lenses in my Low Spec and my APO, so lines are weaker. Intensity hasn't been corrected. I think that this comet was too low above the horizon to do it well. This is also the first light with a diffraction grating 300 l/mm used in the Low Spec 2. Slit position, PHD2 screen: Spectrum with stretched histogram, faint LP of my city is present in the background, 5x60s stack: I hope that I correctly substracted LP from the comet spectrum. The result obtained in the BASS software: We have carbon C2 bands, CN and strong emission of sodium doublet. Some lines are unidentified yet.
  6. Hi All, wondered if you could help me make sense of this ... new HEQ5 - belt modded by FLO, all feels good, minuscule backlash but strange guiding. Admittedly first time using it but baffled. Failed calibration see image below and guiding seemed to be Ra and Dec following each other. Stars look ok ish (@ 1500 mm ) Needle galaxy is poor as only about 10 mins each in RGB note - it was hazy and did keep losing star in OAG Thanks for looking PHD2_DebugLog_2020-05-19_221608.txt
  7. I am currently waiting for a nice shiny 100mm refractor to arrive... to put on my new HEQ5 PRO. Meanwhile, lurking in the garage in a case that hasn't been opened in over 20 years is a 40 years old this year Celestron C8 - the original fork mounted type in orange.... I'm suspecting that in order to get say a long dovetail plate to fit to it will require some modifications? At 2,000mm f/10 it will be good for lunar and Jupiter and Saturn. Has anyone any experience of doing this with the old style C8? It's fair to say I either lack the requisite skills or equipment to do anything more complex than screw/bolt things together, is if it is more than that, suggestions as to who could carry out any necessary modifications would be welcome. I realise DEC balance will be an issue on a GEM with an SCT... (In case you're wondering... back in 1980 when I bought it, there were no such things as dew straps, or much of anything else and I just found it not easy to use, eyepieces were ferociously expensive and I was a lowly bank clerk at the time, then I bought a house....). Ron.
  8. Sooo...I'm getting quote frustrated here. This spring I tested my HEQ5 with guiding. The synscan controller was connected to the computer trough the USB plug on the hand controller. This worked like a charm in my living room. On the new controllers you dont need the rs cable. But when I tried the whole thing with guide cameara for some live shooting, it just did not work. I get something wrong with the com port in decice manager, driver not working. I have tried 3 different drivers. The whole thing responded, connected and was guiding when i did a dummy test before the summer. So setup is pc-synscan via usb for pulse guiding. Can it be a problem with windows 10? What t h.... just happened? Where can I find a driver that works? And believe me it worked 5 months ago, argh. Thanks for any respons and support
  9. Sky-Watcher HEQ5 PRO Go-To Astronomy Mount With all accessories - as new February 2020 HEQ5 Mount Head 1.75" Stainless Steel Tripod 2x 5kg Counterweights SynScan Handset & Cable 12v Cigarette DC Power Cable Vixen-Style Medium Dovetail Bar Price £690 - buyer collects Hampshire
  10. Hi guys, new to SG lounge and new to the hobby. I have just bought my first EQ Mount (Used 2018 model HEQ5 pro, belt modded). I hate to be the newbie to ask questions about polar alignment, but I have what I hope to be a relatively simple question to answer, yet have had no luck with the search bar. When my mount is in the home position (counterweight bar down) and tripod north my polar scope reticle is orientated as per the attached photograph (photo 1). When I was reading prior to getting the mount I had simply assumed that the reticle would be oriented with 0 being directly at the top and 6 at the bottom when in home position. As this is not the case, my question regards what I do during the process of polar alignment. Do I rotate the R.A. so that 0 is at the top and 6 is at the bottom and then place Polaris in the relevant position as per my iOS polar alignment app (photo 2) or do I need to somehow rotate the reticle within the polar scope such that the reticle is orientated vertically in the home position? Are the date and time dials on the mount itself obsolete now that we have the privilege of apps that do the work for us? Apologies if this is a basic question that has been covered before.
  11. Forgot to post the final version of this one. Please with the detail.
  12. From the album: HEQ5/SW 80ED

    Another nebula close to the Cat's Paw Nebula. Has nice structure, is big and yet fairly unknown.
  13. Hello, I am sorry in advance if this specific subject has been discussed before, but couldn't find it. In any case, I need your wisdom I am a proud owner of the best-seller Skywatcher 200P Dobsonian (8" 203mm aperture, 1200mm FL). Like many, I started relatively cheap because I wanted to know if I'd love the hobby or not. Turns out I did. Also like many, after the first few months of pure visual joy, I got incepted with the idea of AP. A couple years later, I am using a DSLR, a ZWO ASI 224MC and recently a TV Powermate 2.5x. These have all been incrementally improving the quality of my shots, which are planetary only for now. The big elephant in the room is that this specific OTA is not ideal for AP, especially planetary. However I am thinking of moving on to the next step, and acquiring an HEQ5, to convert and put the Dob 8" OTA on it for visual and AP. Here is where I would like your opinion. Do you think that would be a waste? I have heard that this tube being so big, heavy and bulky, would push the HEQ5 at its limits for visual, and a NO NO for AP, especially with heavy powermates and the ZWO on it. Is that true? And, assuming it is true, should I completely ditch the Dob, and focus on choosing a new better OTA? I was hoping to do that incrementally for practical and monetary reasons, for example this year doing the conversion, and 1-2 years from now getting a proper tube. However if it turns out to be a waste, I would like to avoid that path. Honest opinions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex
  14. Hi I have just bought a second hand HEQ5 pro mount and I'm happy with my first outing. Just pointing the scope with the hand controller to view and track. However now moving on to Polar Alignment for acurate tracking i have found that the Altitude was very stiff and needs a lot of effort to move. So having seen other posts were the bolts or mount are damaged I have now removed both bolts and trying to free up the mounts by regularly moving this up and down across the full travel. I have noticed that this needs a lot of effort to get started but when moving it seems to be not too bad to keep moving. If i stop for any reason it then needs the same surge of effort to get it moving again. So I still think the bolts or mount would be damaged if I used those for the adjustment. Its not that old 1-2 years and the previous owner said he had not bothered with using the polar scope much. So my question here is should I persevere in trying to free up movement using brute force or should I take the side plates off to slacken the main bolt. The main reason I have not gone for this option is the feedback that this may damage the plastic side covers. Any comments would be appreciated.
  15. im making this sale active again, here are the details im not entirely sure i want to get rid of my imaging setup, but its a lot of money to be tied up for me for not a lot of use, main reason for selling is to get some decent canon lenses which will be used a lot more.... well the total of my gear what i can remember off the top of my head is way over £2000 there is a lot of stuff i have not added which i can not remember, well here is the list so far... HEQ5 - RRP £630 http://www.firstligh...q5-syntrek.html HEQ5 upgraded bolts - RRP £30 QHY5L-ii - RRP 229 Altair mini guide scope & auto guiding setup RRP £169 & £39.99 = TOTAL £208.99 https://www.altairas...&cat=260&page=1 https://www.altairas...productid=16469 SW 130-pds - RRP £159 http://www.firstligh...30p-ds-ota.html SW Auto focuser - RRP £45 http://www.firstligh...to-focuser.html SW CC - RRP £97 http://www.firstligh...-corrector.html Baader 2" Neodymium filter - RRP £80 http://www.firstligh...ium-filter.html Skywatcher 28mm 2" Long Eye Relief - RRP - £29.90 http://www.firstligh...eye-relief.html Meade 12mm Illuminated Reticle Eyepiece (Wireless) - RRP - £59.99 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c49e5d5e9 Celestron x2 barlow x2 - RRP x1 - £24 - x2 = £48 http://www.firstligh...125-barlow.html Televue x2 barlow - RRP - £110 http://www.telescope...low_1_25__.html MSI U135DX netbook - RRP - £249 solor filter - RRP - £41 telrad - RRP - £35 SW 9x50 finder - RRP - £45 premium chesire - RRP - £36 M48 adapter - RRP - £15 Making every photon count - RRP £19.95 HitecAstro EQDIR adapter for EQMOD - RRP - £27.90 canon t -ring - RRP - £21 bahtinov mask - RRP - £16.45 TOTAL SO FAR = £2233.18 all items are very well looked after and kept indoors in a smoke free home, id prefer to sell everything in one go and for it to be collection only due to the mass of items and the weight of everything, id be happy to let this lot go for around the £1200 mark here is my flickr from which you can see me astro images i have taken with this setup https://www.flickr.com/photos/tingting44/sets/72157650012923391/ more images at request
  16. Hello. I was hoping someone might be able to help me??? This is my first post, so first off I just want to say a big "hello" to everyone here at Stargazers Lounge. My equipment is: Skywatcher ED 80 + FF/HEQ5/V2.04 Skyscan handcontroller/Tracer 12v battery/Canon 6D, I am not guiding or using a PC. My issue is......I can't get the GOTO function to work perfectly. My HEQ5 GOTO keeps on missing its target everywhere when I do a 2 star alignment. The target is just outside the field of view using a ED80 and 28mm eyepiece. When I do a 1 star alignment I seem to get much better GOTO results but start missing targets when I move further away from the star 1 used for alignment. I have done all the basics...I have callibrated the polar scope, levelled mount, entered correct info into the controller (date in US/Co-ordinates in hrs+mins) Polar aligned ok, tightened Dec and RA bolts and made sure HEQ5 is in home position before turning on the power, tried to centre the star when aligning etc. A few things I noticed over 3 nights of using my HEQ5 were: Night 1) Tried a few two star alignments with Alkaid and Betelgeuse but i found that the Goto was off on Jupiter and the moon in the East. I could see the light of the moon through the telescope but had to the center using the handset. Same issue with Jupiter.Tried again from scratch 3 times but always the same result. I used the same alignment stars because I'm not so sure on others yet apart from the obvious and some of those were not on the list the skyscan controller gave me.I gave up on the goto in the end and just looked at Jupiter and the moon for a few hours....they were superb, I was amazed at how far I could push Jupiter with the ED80, almost better than my 200p in ways.I can see why people like refractors! Night 2)Set the mount up. Tried the same 2 stars and got the same result.However this time I tried some targets to the West in Auriga without thinking about it and the Goto seemed more accurate????Is this because I aligned with Alcaid near the North and Betelgeuse in the West, therefore it tracks better in the Western side of the Meridian? Night 3) I then tried out a 1 star alignment just to see what the difference would be (I used Alkaid) I can get M51 and M101 bang in the centre of my Canon 6D but M81/82 start to appear to the top left corner and not in the centre....the tracking seems to be going off the further I move away from my alignment star.I then chose M44 in Cancer because it is to the South and it was off in the frame to the left, like the 2 star alignment was giving me......I assumed though that maybe this is the case with one star alignment, it can cope in an area near the alignment star but as you move further away it gets worse???? Using the 1 star alignment gave me a chance to do a bit of imaging for the first time so I stuck with that. I have not tried 3 star alignment yet and I know that this helps compensate for cone error...I will be trying this next anyway to see what I get. Is there a way to get the Goto to work on targets all over the Sky? Do most imagers just choose a star near the area of sky they want to image in and use the 1 star alignment?? For visual I thought the 2 star alignment should work but to be honest the 1 star was better!! I would really like to get the GOTO to work on any target i choose wherever it is in the sky. Anyway I've just started so I have a lot to try and experiment with but I thought I would try some suggestions here because I might be missing something obvious? Any help would be fantastic Thank you and clear skies to all. PS.I have included 3 pics to show how the first 2 targets are central but the third is starting to go amiss.They are also my first ever Images so thought I would share. If anyone knows what those black marks are on my images any advice to get rid of them would be really usefull...looks like something on the sensor...or from deep outer space..lol.
  17. Hi Guys, I was using my scope last night following the Doris malarky. I was sitting on the floor with the power jack connected up in my HEQ5 PRO trying to get polar alignment. The mount was not turned on (I can't see polaris with that super bright illuminated polar scope) but it was plugged in with power. The legs of the mount felt like it was buzzing up my arms, almost furry feeling. As I was putting my eyes close to the polar scope I could feel the charge coming from that too when I accidentally knocked it. It seems everything metal was giving off a charge. The moment I took the power jack out, it obviously stopped. What could be at fault here? The mount worked correctly through my session but just quite worried in the long term I will be damaging my long saved for mount. (I have never experienced this in my previous outings about 6 days prior). The power to the unit is supplied by a basic DC to cigar car transformer. Is it worth replacing this component in the mix or maybe the Sky Watcher jack cable? Any advice always is much appreciated
  18. Last night I put my 90mm mak on the HEQ5 - plenty of mount thought I. However, I then realised that the weights I have are too heavy, even a single one close up to the mount. So I'm going to try other things (dumbbell weights etc) while I look for a proper counterweight to suit. I need to find out how much counterweight to add, so does anyone know if the HEQ5 is of itself balanced? I.e. can I simply weigh the scope and select a matching weight in counterweights? Thanks
  19. In the category of medium nuisance, but have had some issues with EQMOD losing its communication to the mount on several occasions and wondered if this is expected or if I have a particular issue. I'm using and HEQ5 Pro mount wired directly to a HitechAstro EQDIR. Having three USB Ports on my laptop the EQDIR share a single USB controller/port with the game pad sensor, my other two ports are connected directly to image and guide cams. All cables and connections look good (checked with multimeter for continuity/resistance), are routed away from power, connectors are taped up and I've been careful not to disturb them. I'm running Ascom 6 SP2 on a windows 7 x64 laptop, with both cams and the mount under Ascom control. The setup works fine 80% of the time, but sometimes it seems to lock on target and won't take any further instruction to change position or slew to another target. The mount continues to track the current target, but it does not respond to movement commands via CdC, game pad or directly on the EQascom controller window - though EQascom does seem to be updating (DEC coordinates) and I can still change the slew speed with game pad or directly. Pretty sure the EQMod, Ascom and CdC are playing nicely on my lappie and there does not seem to be any app actually hanging or producing an error - so had been thinking the EQDir might be suspect, though the fact the mount was still tracking got me a little confused. If comms were lost would the mount continue to track with no further input? Or perhaps the serial cable/connections are a little dubious on the EQDir - HEQ5 TX pair. If it's not a common problem, then EQDir or the serial cable/connectors seem most probable - though any suggestions considered before I hard wire everything in to place with the new pier!
  20. Thankfully I have a lot of patience and I will never give up although I am struggling badly! The clouds cleared for the first time and so at last I can set up my new mount and ED80. I had checked the reticule alignment yesterday so needed to align the polarscope with Polaris and set up the Synscan. Seemed straight forward from Astro Babys guide. Problem 1. Could not really be sure the star I could just make out in the polarscope was Polaris despite it being where my app said it was it was yellowish and not that bright? Problem 2. I dropped the little black date ring screw in the dark and despite being on my knees for 20 mins couldnt find it. Can i get a spare?! Problem 3. When I plugged in the synscan and turned on the power the red light flashed slowly indicating not much power despite me charging Maplins jumpstarter for about 3 days! Problem 4. Striving on in desperation with 3 star alignment I loved how the mount moved so smoothly but it was miles out locating stars, even Mirach under my feet when I could see it up in front of me! Dont get me wrong I will succeed as I am loving the new hobby but if there are words of encouragement and advice out there or an on-call expert in the Salisbury area I would be forever grateful! ps - was glad to have my 200P dob to at least see some things when i put the new stuff away!
  21. I currently have a 200p on a manual Dobsonian mount. I have also read the 'making every photon count' book. I have a modded xbox webcam and a decent digital camera. Please check out my pictures at www.mauton.co.uk Based on the pictures I have taken so far, I am being bitten by the astrophotography bug - and I am very limited at the minute my not having a motorized mount. Below is my plan which while I wont buy everything over-night I want to run it by you guys to get your advice / opinions on it. I am probably more interested in DSO / clusters than planetary, how I would like to think that my setup is at least capable of taking planetary images. Step 1 - DSLR Canon 1100d While I know that I will not be able to take anything more than several seconds of exposure, I am still interested in taking pictures of the moon and possible short exposure shots of Jupiter / Saturn. I also believe that if I buy a fast lens f/1.4 I may be able to stack multiple short exposure pictures of Orion (using a simple camera stand). Will also be interesting to directly attach the camera to my current scope via a t-scope. Step 2 - ED80 Pro OTA From reading these forums the ED80 scope possibly gives the best bang for the buck. Q1. Will a 1100d attached to the ED80 (tracking/guided) - produce good results? Q2. - I would like to ultimately but a HEQ5 Pro mount, however is there a lighter / cheaper tracking mount I could buy to mount the ED80 ? Q3 - Would it be worth attaching a guide camera to the 1100d / ED80 ? Step 3 - HEQ5 Pro I am looking at the HEQ5 Pro with Syntrek and then to use the EQMOD. This should save me around £140 compared to the Synscan. My aim here is to mount my 200p on this mount and attach the 1100d camera to it for imaging. Q1. What advantage would i gain from imaging from the 200p as opposed to the ED80? - Would one give me better images of DSO and the other planetary? Q2. If i mounted the ED80 on the 200p, what does this give me the ability to do??? or am i better off just using 1 scope at a time? I know there are lots of questions - but before splashing out a lot of ££ I need to know that I am at least on the right tracks. Thanks
  22. Pardon my ignorance in the matter, but I was wondering if I could get some tips as to what I would need if I were to buy either HEQ5 SynTrek or similar mounts. Not sure if I would upgrade my 6" very soon, maybe to an 8" in the future.. Maybe I'd go for a NEQ6. But anyway.. Lets leave guiding out of the equation for now, what would I need to be able to track? Do I need some sort of USB > ST4 cable and a laptop? Or is the SynGuider a better option? If I'm leaving stuff out, please let me know, cause I have no clue as of yet. Oh, and I probably need some heavy batteries as well. How do you hook that up by the way? Lots of question, hoping for lots of good answers. Which I know I'll get from you magificent people Cheers. - Ken B.
  23. Hello, Does anyone have experience of using both these mounts for imaging? If yes, can you advise on which you think does the best job of accurate tracking and is the az eq5 gt quiet in its native form, i.e. doesn't need a Rowan belt mod? I was going to buy the heq5 pro with belt already installed, but now I see this other mount with az capabilities as well. I wonder if there has to be compromises in its performance somewhere? I would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks Mark
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