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Found 67 results

  1. I tested the tracer polymer battery over a six hour period and although the red light on the HEQ5 flashed most of the time, and more rapidly as time went on, the mount moved so that the time on setting circles changed by six hours, suggesting the mount will track OK. (the test was carried out during the day). I did not try to get the telescope to point in a different direction using the handset. 1) Should I be bothered by the flashing lights on the HEQ5 mount? 2) Is tracer misleading people by saying their batteries are 12 volts? (they say that their discharge curves are flat) I found that the battery's voltage falls. Below is from the Tracer datasheet. ---------------------------------------------------------- Built-in Fuel Gauge - 5 colour LED fuel gauge mounted externally to show charge level. LED Status: 3 green & 2 red: Battery fully charged 11.7V 2 green & 2 red: Over 50% capacity 11.4V 1 green & 2 red: Over 20% capacity 11.1V 2 red: Less than 20% capacity 10.7V 1 red: Less than 10% capacity 10.3V No lights: Battery empty 8.25V ---------------------------------------------------- Thanks Gerard
  2. Sooo...I'm getting quote frustrated here. This spring I tested my HEQ5 with guiding. The synscan controller was connected to the computer trough the USB plug on the hand controller. This worked like a charm in my living room. On the new controllers you dont need the rs cable. But when I tried the whole thing with guide cameara for some live shooting, it just did not work. I get something wrong with the com port in decice manager, driver not working. I have tried 3 different drivers. The whole thing responded, connected and was guiding when i did a dummy test before the summer. So setup is pc-synscan via usb for pulse guiding. Can it be a problem with windows 10? What t h.... just happened? Where can I find a driver that works? And believe me it worked 5 months ago, argh. Thanks for any respons and support
  3. As title. Not the best to look at cosmetically but in good working order. Mount has upgraded latitude bolts. Will throw in the following: Sky-Watcher power supply HiteCastro DC focus controller EQDIR cable to control mount from laptop Long UK plug mains power cable USB hub Lovely Lords Cricket bag £375 ONO Based in Kent near Maidstone. Collection only. Cheers
  4. Morning folks, I'm planning a bit of a change in my imaging setup and after much thought I need some input from others if you can. I want to upgrade my setup, currently a SW 130pds HEQ5 with a 60mm guide scope imaging with a modded 500D. I often find my imaging time limited but am planning the build of a mini obsy to make longer sessions more practical. Would mounting a SW72 ed on top of the 130pds be over kill to get an dual imaging system going and increase the data volume, both with a canon 500d and a simple finder guider, the mount should be ok with this. Or just keep the status quo and add an auto focuser for longer single scope sessions that can be more automated in keeping good focus with the lighter setup. The dual version I believe would end up having wider field images as I would probably have to add the higher resolution from the longer FL to the shorter FL images. Any 2p's worth would be appreciated I just want to achieve more productive sessions. Thanks Campbell
  5. Hi everyone, as the title suggests, I've noticed that the RA axis of my HEQ5 pro mount has some give. I don't notice it while the clutch is unlocked, but it's very obvious with a locked RA clutch. Any suggestions on what could be causing it/what adjustments need to be made? Thanks
  6. I have a 2012 model HEQ5-PRO and it has the older reticule in the polar scope. Could anyone direct me if I can urchase a new polar scope reticule or a new polar scope with the latest reticule?
  7. Hi folks, Having setup my kit last night to image Orion I found the Heq5 mount making a hard clicking or grinding noise depending slew speed only in Declination and only when pointing west. Tried with handset as well as eqmod, the mounts power is supplied with a mains power pack. I don't get as much time to image as I'd like and often image object in the east as they rise. Tried slight adjustment of Dec but still happens. Throwing it out for suggestions. Thanks Campbell
  8. Hi I have just bought a second hand HEQ5 pro mount and I'm happy with my first outing. Just pointing the scope with the hand controller to view and track. However now moving on to Polar Alignment for acurate tracking i have found that the Altitude was very stiff and needs a lot of effort to move. So having seen other posts were the bolts or mount are damaged I have now removed both bolts and trying to free up the mounts by regularly moving this up and down across the full travel. I have noticed that this needs a lot of effort to get started but when moving it seems to be not too bad to keep moving. If i stop for any reason it then needs the same surge of effort to get it moving again. So I still think the bolts or mount would be damaged if I used those for the adjustment. Its not that old 1-2 years and the previous owner said he had not bothered with using the polar scope much. So my question here is should I persevere in trying to free up movement using brute force or should I take the side plates off to slacken the main bolt. The main reason I have not gone for this option is the feedback that this may damage the plastic side covers. Any comments would be appreciated.
  9. Last night I put my 90mm mak on the HEQ5 - plenty of mount thought I. However, I then realised that the weights I have are too heavy, even a single one close up to the mount. So I'm going to try other things (dumbbell weights etc) while I look for a proper counterweight to suit. I need to find out how much counterweight to add, so does anyone know if the HEQ5 is of itself balanced? I.e. can I simply weigh the scope and select a matching weight in counterweights? Thanks
  10. Hello. I was hoping someone might be able to help me??? This is my first post, so first off I just want to say a big "hello" to everyone here at Stargazers Lounge. My equipment is: Skywatcher ED 80 + FF/HEQ5/V2.04 Skyscan handcontroller/Tracer 12v battery/Canon 6D, I am not guiding or using a PC. My issue is......I can't get the GOTO function to work perfectly. My HEQ5 GOTO keeps on missing its target everywhere when I do a 2 star alignment. The target is just outside the field of view using a ED80 and 28mm eyepiece. When I do a 1 star alignment I seem to get much better GOTO results but start missing targets when I move further away from the star 1 used for alignment. I have done all the basics...I have callibrated the polar scope, levelled mount, entered correct info into the controller (date in US/Co-ordinates in hrs+mins) Polar aligned ok, tightened Dec and RA bolts and made sure HEQ5 is in home position before turning on the power, tried to centre the star when aligning etc. A few things I noticed over 3 nights of using my HEQ5 were: Night 1) Tried a few two star alignments with Alkaid and Betelgeuse but i found that the Goto was off on Jupiter and the moon in the East. I could see the light of the moon through the telescope but had to the center using the handset. Same issue with Jupiter.Tried again from scratch 3 times but always the same result. I used the same alignment stars because I'm not so sure on others yet apart from the obvious and some of those were not on the list the skyscan controller gave me.I gave up on the goto in the end and just looked at Jupiter and the moon for a few hours....they were superb, I was amazed at how far I could push Jupiter with the ED80, almost better than my 200p in ways.I can see why people like refractors! Night 2)Set the mount up. Tried the same 2 stars and got the same result.However this time I tried some targets to the West in Auriga without thinking about it and the Goto seemed more accurate????Is this because I aligned with Alcaid near the North and Betelgeuse in the West, therefore it tracks better in the Western side of the Meridian? Night 3) I then tried out a 1 star alignment just to see what the difference would be (I used Alkaid) I can get M51 and M101 bang in the centre of my Canon 6D but M81/82 start to appear to the top left corner and not in the centre....the tracking seems to be going off the further I move away from my alignment star.I then chose M44 in Cancer because it is to the South and it was off in the frame to the left, like the 2 star alignment was giving me......I assumed though that maybe this is the case with one star alignment, it can cope in an area near the alignment star but as you move further away it gets worse???? Using the 1 star alignment gave me a chance to do a bit of imaging for the first time so I stuck with that. I have not tried 3 star alignment yet and I know that this helps compensate for cone error...I will be trying this next anyway to see what I get. Is there a way to get the Goto to work on targets all over the Sky? Do most imagers just choose a star near the area of sky they want to image in and use the 1 star alignment?? For visual I thought the 2 star alignment should work but to be honest the 1 star was better!! I would really like to get the GOTO to work on any target i choose wherever it is in the sky. Anyway I've just started so I have a lot to try and experiment with but I thought I would try some suggestions here because I might be missing something obvious? Any help would be fantastic Thank you and clear skies to all. PS.I have included 3 pics to show how the first 2 targets are central but the third is starting to go amiss.They are also my first ever Images so thought I would share. If anyone knows what those black marks are on my images any advice to get rid of them would be really usefull...looks like something on the sensor...or from deep outer space..lol.
  11. Hi Guys, I was using my scope last night following the Doris malarky. I was sitting on the floor with the power jack connected up in my HEQ5 PRO trying to get polar alignment. The mount was not turned on (I can't see polaris with that super bright illuminated polar scope) but it was plugged in with power. The legs of the mount felt like it was buzzing up my arms, almost furry feeling. As I was putting my eyes close to the polar scope I could feel the charge coming from that too when I accidentally knocked it. It seems everything metal was giving off a charge. The moment I took the power jack out, it obviously stopped. What could be at fault here? The mount worked correctly through my session but just quite worried in the long term I will be damaging my long saved for mount. (I have never experienced this in my previous outings about 6 days prior). The power to the unit is supplied by a basic DC to cigar car transformer. Is it worth replacing this component in the mix or maybe the Sky Watcher jack cable? Any advice always is much appreciated
  12. im making this sale active again, here are the details im not entirely sure i want to get rid of my imaging setup, but its a lot of money to be tied up for me for not a lot of use, main reason for selling is to get some decent canon lenses which will be used a lot more.... well the total of my gear what i can remember off the top of my head is way over £2000 there is a lot of stuff i have not added which i can not remember, well here is the list so far... HEQ5 - RRP £630 http://www.firstligh...q5-syntrek.html HEQ5 upgraded bolts - RRP £30 QHY5L-ii - RRP 229 Altair mini guide scope & auto guiding setup RRP £169 & £39.99 = TOTAL £208.99 https://www.altairas...&cat=260&page=1 https://www.altairas...productid=16469 SW 130-pds - RRP £159 http://www.firstligh...30p-ds-ota.html SW Auto focuser - RRP £45 http://www.firstligh...to-focuser.html SW CC - RRP £97 http://www.firstligh...-corrector.html Baader 2" Neodymium filter - RRP £80 http://www.firstligh...ium-filter.html Skywatcher 28mm 2" Long Eye Relief - RRP - £29.90 http://www.firstligh...eye-relief.html Meade 12mm Illuminated Reticle Eyepiece (Wireless) - RRP - £59.99 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c49e5d5e9 Celestron x2 barlow x2 - RRP x1 - £24 - x2 = £48 http://www.firstligh...125-barlow.html Televue x2 barlow - RRP - £110 http://www.telescope...low_1_25__.html MSI U135DX netbook - RRP - £249 solor filter - RRP - £41 telrad - RRP - £35 SW 9x50 finder - RRP - £45 premium chesire - RRP - £36 M48 adapter - RRP - £15 Making every photon count - RRP £19.95 HitecAstro EQDIR adapter for EQMOD - RRP - £27.90 canon t -ring - RRP - £21 bahtinov mask - RRP - £16.45 TOTAL SO FAR = £2233.18 all items are very well looked after and kept indoors in a smoke free home, id prefer to sell everything in one go and for it to be collection only due to the mass of items and the weight of everything, id be happy to let this lot go for around the £1200 mark here is my flickr from which you can see me astro images i have taken with this setup https://www.flickr.com/photos/tingting44/sets/72157650012923391/ more images at request
  13. In the category of medium nuisance, but have had some issues with EQMOD losing its communication to the mount on several occasions and wondered if this is expected or if I have a particular issue. I'm using and HEQ5 Pro mount wired directly to a HitechAstro EQDIR. Having three USB Ports on my laptop the EQDIR share a single USB controller/port with the game pad sensor, my other two ports are connected directly to image and guide cams. All cables and connections look good (checked with multimeter for continuity/resistance), are routed away from power, connectors are taped up and I've been careful not to disturb them. I'm running Ascom 6 SP2 on a windows 7 x64 laptop, with both cams and the mount under Ascom control. The setup works fine 80% of the time, but sometimes it seems to lock on target and won't take any further instruction to change position or slew to another target. The mount continues to track the current target, but it does not respond to movement commands via CdC, game pad or directly on the EQascom controller window - though EQascom does seem to be updating (DEC coordinates) and I can still change the slew speed with game pad or directly. Pretty sure the EQMod, Ascom and CdC are playing nicely on my lappie and there does not seem to be any app actually hanging or producing an error - so had been thinking the EQDir might be suspect, though the fact the mount was still tracking got me a little confused. If comms were lost would the mount continue to track with no further input? Or perhaps the serial cable/connections are a little dubious on the EQDir - HEQ5 TX pair. If it's not a common problem, then EQDir or the serial cable/connectors seem most probable - though any suggestions considered before I hard wire everything in to place with the new pier!
  14. Thankfully I have a lot of patience and I will never give up although I am struggling badly! The clouds cleared for the first time and so at last I can set up my new mount and ED80. I had checked the reticule alignment yesterday so needed to align the polarscope with Polaris and set up the Synscan. Seemed straight forward from Astro Babys guide. Problem 1. Could not really be sure the star I could just make out in the polarscope was Polaris despite it being where my app said it was it was yellowish and not that bright? Problem 2. I dropped the little black date ring screw in the dark and despite being on my knees for 20 mins couldnt find it. Can i get a spare?! Problem 3. When I plugged in the synscan and turned on the power the red light flashed slowly indicating not much power despite me charging Maplins jumpstarter for about 3 days! Problem 4. Striving on in desperation with 3 star alignment I loved how the mount moved so smoothly but it was miles out locating stars, even Mirach under my feet when I could see it up in front of me! Dont get me wrong I will succeed as I am loving the new hobby but if there are words of encouragement and advice out there or an on-call expert in the Salisbury area I would be forever grateful! ps - was glad to have my 200P dob to at least see some things when i put the new stuff away!
  15. I currently have a 200p on a manual Dobsonian mount. I have also read the 'making every photon count' book. I have a modded xbox webcam and a decent digital camera. Please check out my pictures at www.mauton.co.uk Based on the pictures I have taken so far, I am being bitten by the astrophotography bug - and I am very limited at the minute my not having a motorized mount. Below is my plan which while I wont buy everything over-night I want to run it by you guys to get your advice / opinions on it. I am probably more interested in DSO / clusters than planetary, how I would like to think that my setup is at least capable of taking planetary images. Step 1 - DSLR Canon 1100d While I know that I will not be able to take anything more than several seconds of exposure, I am still interested in taking pictures of the moon and possible short exposure shots of Jupiter / Saturn. I also believe that if I buy a fast lens f/1.4 I may be able to stack multiple short exposure pictures of Orion (using a simple camera stand). Will also be interesting to directly attach the camera to my current scope via a t-scope. Step 2 - ED80 Pro OTA From reading these forums the ED80 scope possibly gives the best bang for the buck. Q1. Will a 1100d attached to the ED80 (tracking/guided) - produce good results? Q2. - I would like to ultimately but a HEQ5 Pro mount, however is there a lighter / cheaper tracking mount I could buy to mount the ED80 ? Q3 - Would it be worth attaching a guide camera to the 1100d / ED80 ? Step 3 - HEQ5 Pro I am looking at the HEQ5 Pro with Syntrek and then to use the EQMOD. This should save me around £140 compared to the Synscan. My aim here is to mount my 200p on this mount and attach the 1100d camera to it for imaging. Q1. What advantage would i gain from imaging from the 200p as opposed to the ED80? - Would one give me better images of DSO and the other planetary? Q2. If i mounted the ED80 on the 200p, what does this give me the ability to do??? or am i better off just using 1 scope at a time? I know there are lots of questions - but before splashing out a lot of ££ I need to know that I am at least on the right tracks. Thanks
  16. Pardon my ignorance in the matter, but I was wondering if I could get some tips as to what I would need if I were to buy either HEQ5 SynTrek or similar mounts. Not sure if I would upgrade my 6" very soon, maybe to an 8" in the future.. Maybe I'd go for a NEQ6. But anyway.. Lets leave guiding out of the equation for now, what would I need to be able to track? Do I need some sort of USB > ST4 cable and a laptop? Or is the SynGuider a better option? If I'm leaving stuff out, please let me know, cause I have no clue as of yet. Oh, and I probably need some heavy batteries as well. How do you hook that up by the way? Lots of question, hoping for lots of good answers. Which I know I'll get from you magificent people Cheers. - Ken B.
  17. Hello, I am sorry in advance if this specific subject has been discussed before, but couldn't find it. In any case, I need your wisdom I am a proud owner of the best-seller Skywatcher 200P Dobsonian (8" 203mm aperture, 1200mm FL). Like many, I started relatively cheap because I wanted to know if I'd love the hobby or not. Turns out I did. Also like many, after the first few months of pure visual joy, I got incepted with the idea of AP. A couple years later, I am using a DSLR, a ZWO ASI 224MC and recently a TV Powermate 2.5x. These have all been incrementally improving the quality of my shots, which are planetary only for now. The big elephant in the room is that this specific OTA is not ideal for AP, especially planetary. However I am thinking of moving on to the next step, and acquiring an HEQ5, to convert and put the Dob 8" OTA on it for visual and AP. Here is where I would like your opinion. Do you think that would be a waste? I have heard that this tube being so big, heavy and bulky, would push the HEQ5 at its limits for visual, and a NO NO for AP, especially with heavy powermates and the ZWO on it. Is that true? And, assuming it is true, should I completely ditch the Dob, and focus on choosing a new better OTA? I was hoping to do that incrementally for practical and monetary reasons, for example this year doing the conversion, and 1-2 years from now getting a proper tube. However if it turns out to be a waste, I would like to avoid that path. Honest opinions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex
  18. From the album: HEQ5/SW 80ED

    Another nebula close to the Cat's Paw Nebula. Has nice structure, is big and yet fairly unknown.
  19. Hello, Does anyone have experience of using both these mounts for imaging? If yes, can you advise on which you think does the best job of accurate tracking and is the az eq5 gt quiet in its native form, i.e. doesn't need a Rowan belt mod? I was going to buy the heq5 pro with belt already installed, but now I see this other mount with az capabilities as well. I wonder if there has to be compromises in its performance somewhere? I would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks Mark
  20. Hi all, I had been anxiously waiting for a clear night to try out the used C8 I got off a bargain that came with some nice goodies. Luckily it was clear last night so decided to just plan out a quick observing session to test the scope. Kit: C8 on Heq5 along with JMI motofocus and f6.3 focal reducer. I managed to polar align fine but I suspect the mount wasn't properly level and in my excitement I totally forgot to balance the scope, just installed the counterweights and went off with polar alignment. I used to use an 8 inch Newtonian so I really enjoyed the lower weight of the OTA. The whole setup took me about an hour as there was cloud cover over Polaris. That said once alignment was out of the way, it was too late to point at Saturn as it was behind the trees already (what a pity), nevertheless I decided to home in on my second favourite target, Andromeda Galaxy. Andromeda galaxy looked so faint I realised my Nexstar 5se gave better views of it until I looked at the corrector plate and it was dew'd already! What the hell? I just took it out. Got the hair dryer out and cleared the dew. As soon as the dew was cleared up, I looked again and the core was looked bright like anything and I just reallllly kept looking at it marvelling at it trying to make out the wings which I couldn't (severe light pollution in Manchester). During alignment, I tried to point to vega when it was at zenith and it was split straight away which was quit a beautiful sight and made me realise the power of this scope. I next tried to point at Vega again later on in the night and I couldn't split it. Didn't make sense! Was I looking at the wrong star? I am sure Vega was a double! This was proof the seeing wasn't good as Vega had moved away from near Zenith by now. Anyway, next tried the Hercules cluster and was left disappointed as I had hoped it would look brighter but when I zoomed in on it with a 6mm eye piece I was quite surprised at the fact that I could make out some stars at such magnification! Still not the best view imho but I need to test HC again when the seeing is better. Before the Hercules Ckuster I had tried the double cluster and having seen it in the Newtonian 8 inch 2 weeks ago I was glad it looked the same in the C8 and the fact that it fit properly in the 25mm eye piece was great as my Nexstar 5se at f10 never managed to handle it well. Also double cluster was always dimmer in my Nexstar. That said, since I had been out of practice, targets weren't coming to my mind so I decided to just follow the guided tour on the heq5 which was a bad idea as it decided to take the scope all over the place instead of moving on targets in an area range fashion which meant the scope was always looking at trees etc. Then a point came when I was trying to slee to M81 that my heq5 went crazy and started pointing at the ground! I was like whattttt!!!!! Alignment had gone badly out and this meant I had to realign again in that painful 6x30 finderscope. At this point I missed my Telrad that I had sold a lot. There were clouds coming so I had to quickly do a 3 star alignement but the aligbement triangle wasn't the biggest. At this point I decided to connect my Samsung scb-2000 camera onto the scope and view things on the tele. Bad Idea! It took forever to focus and the view was sooo zoomed in (picture of Caph attached) that when I tried to slew onto Hercules Cluster, it was out of view. I was really obsesssed with making HC brighter! Anyway there went another hour wasted but at least now I knew the SCB is not meant for this scope even though I have used it on the Nexstar once but it was still too zoomed in. I had thought th focal reducer would have fared better. Next I looked at the back garden and the moon was about to come in view and was coming from behind the house and I got all worked up as this meant at F10 and on a stable mount like heq5, unlike the Nextar, I would really get to study the moon but this was not to be as whilst waiting I tried to slew to Neptune which had now come in view and as soon as a faint dot came into view that I could apply more power onto, the clouds homed in and this was the end of my first light with the C8. I also tested my 15x70 celestron binos I bought for holiday and was quite impressed with the results and managed to use them to make the most of the night. Had a quick look at the moon and andromeda galaxy and now can't wait to go checkout darker skies when on holiday. Overall, the C8 is a powerful scope and I am sure will give great results with a DSLR which I am going to buy as I sold mine before (what a shame). This was a test as I intend to build an observatory with the C8 installed along with an ED80 resting on top of the C8. The C8 would be used for observing, whilst the ED80 would be used for imaging along with a 9x50 finderscope for guiding which is already fitted onto the C8. Quick note about the JMI moto focus; words can't describe how easy it makes focusing on targets when powering in with high power eye piece. Just a matter of pressing two buttons and this came free with the telescope - what a bargain! Hope you enjoyed reading the report and if there are other targets I should have tried which are reachable within the light polluted skies of Manchester than please let me know. Thanks for reading. Clear Skies
  21. Hello, I hope this is the best place to post this... I recently acquired a Sky-Watcher Explorer 150P DS and an HEQ5 Pro to go with it and couldn't find that much information regarding what was actually in the boxes, to know if I needed to buy anything else, etc.. So I made this unboxing video so that people can actually see what the boxes contain and get a bit more information regarding the kit. Bear in mind that this is my frist unboxing video and that I don't have any intention of being a know-it-all... I just want to share information with people out there... If you find these helpful I'll continue to do these (since I'm waiting for the arrival of an eyepiece and a Barlow, otherwise I'll just stop... Cheers
  22. I am thinking about a future setup capable of doing both astrophotography and visual. Right now i have a Bresser Pollux 150/1400. It is a bird-jones telescope which means i can't do prime focus photography. I can see the orion nebula and ring nebula with it even in fairly light polluted areas (about a 5-6 in stellarium). The two scopes i have thought might being the future scope is the following: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-ds-eq-5-pro-goto.html And the skywatcher explorer 130p-ds with the heq5 pro synscan (which i can't link to). Am i going to regret that i got the eq5 mount with more aperture instead of the less aperture and the heq5? Is the 130p-ds going to give me the same views of DSO's as the scope i have now? (because it doesn't have the "corrector" lens in the focuser) would i be able to use the 130p-ds for planetary views and imaging, or would it be impossible? (btw, i have a 2.5x barlow and a 6mm planetary ocular) Sorry for any misspellings (i am 14 years old and live in Denmark) but i hope that you can help me out by telling me your opinion
  23. The standard Polarscope Reticle with the HEQ5, at least the one in mine, is a simple circle so using "Polarfinder" pictures is a matter of guessing its position. Other types of reticle seem to exist in which there are 12 or 24 graduations around the circle. Does anyone know of a source of such reticles for the standard Polarscope or a replacement Polarscope assembly with such a reticle? David
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