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Found 63 results

  1. Now I’ve managed to sort out control of my EQ6-R Pro using Stellarium via EQASCOM, I’m working my way through the other equipment I want to control from my Windows 7 laptop. I’m stuck trying to get my Celestron focuser to be recognised. This is what I’ve done so far: Downloaded the Celestron Focuser Utility Program (.exe file) from here: https://www.celestron.com/pages/manuals-software Also downloaded the December 2019 USB ASCOM driver set up from above. I ran the ASCOM driver set up and restarted the laptop. Connected focuser direct to laptop via USB. The focuser’s power light shows red and in Windows control panel it recognises the device as ‘Celestron Focuser’ but indicates no driver present. Ran the Celestron focuser utility program hoping it would connect and install the right driver so I could calibrate, but it can’t detect the focuser at all. Finally, ran APT to see if I could connect by choosing the ASCOM driver under ‘Gear’ but this doesn’t work either. Stuck now. I’m guessing I need to somehow ‘tell’ Windows where the driver is...? Any thoughts? Thanks everyone EDIT: I have previously had this focuser working correctly both with StarSense handset and via ASCOM (Celestron unified driver) through the aux on my old Evolution mount. However, now I’ve changed to a Sky-Watcher mount, I need it to function direct through USB.
  2. Hi all, Looking for a UK sale Tasco 1603EF focuser, can't find any UK sales on eBay etc
  3. Hi, I have changed the focuser on my newtonian but its too short. I realise that I can just add an extension tube to it but I’m not sure if that is the best solution. I also seem to have have a stray light problem (I’m getting a hazy image on a 5mm eyepiece). A third problem is that I find it quite cumbersome that the focuser has to stick out so far (155mm+eyepiece). I wonder if I might solve the stay light problem by extending the main telescope tube instead of the focuser and therefore getting the eyepiece closer to the secondary. And also maintain more precision in the focuser by not extending it. As it stands the focuser would have to come out 265mm from the centre of the secondary mirror in order to focus. The secondary is 50mm wide. From primary to secondary is 950mm approx.. The primary is 200mm Thanks for reading. Any advice will be much appreciated.
  4. Originally brought for my C11 HD Edge, which its made for, but if used with filter wheel, OAG, and 0.7 focal reducer the spacing is to far out, hence the reluctant sale of this A+ Condition, unused (other than to see if it worked) focuser. The price includes special delivery. Bank transfer, paypal is ok, or cash/collect...ect... The price is £200. This would be great for planetary imaging, imaging without using an OAG, bringing the travel closer. Thanks for looking.
  5. The focuser on my SkyWatcher 150i is a basic rack-and-pinion, unsurprising for the price point, but sometimes a bit of a pain to control finely enough. I’m not looking to spend any serious money upgrading it, but I did want to see what I could tweak. The first thing I did was to slacken off (slightly) the screws holding the plate against the spindle, as the operation was very tight when new – that helped a bit (and I think that without doing this first, the “friction fit” approach described below wouldn’t have worked). I will eventually get around to taking it all off as per AstroBaby's tune-up. Improving the fine control without a major change means doing something with the focusing knobs – they’re quite small, so the effective “gearing ratio” when you operate them is on the harsh side. Some folk have described fitting larger diameter replacements, either bought or made, and even using ones with a planetary-style mechanism to achieve a reduction in the ratio. I didn’t fancy this, as I couldn’t see how the existing knobs were attached to the spindle without trying to prise them apart (possibly terminally). The other option is to increase the effective diameter of the existing knobs, for which purpose a clothes peg is apparently quite popular, but I’ve also come across descriptions of chop sticks inserted into holes drilled at intervals into the circumference, and punctured lids from peanut butter jars. I wanted something that was cheap, relatively tidy and non-destructive. The answer seemed to be some sort of thick sleeve that I could fit over the knob. It would need to be a tight fit so as not to slip in use, to be not so large as to foul against either the focuser tube or the main OTA, and to be thick enough that it didn’t flex sideways when grasped. I thought I might find some larger rubber washers that would do the job, but none were thick enough to be rigid in use. However, a bit of searching found these spacers that are apparently used in vehicle shock absorbers. My calipers said the diameter of the focuser knobs was around 29.5mm, and the nearest spacers that were available had an internal hole 30mm and outside diameter 60mm. I ordered one that was 10mm thick, not quite as deep as the knobs, but which allowed a bit more space on the inside edge for free operation. I’d hoped the internal hole might be a but undersized when it arrived but it was spot on, so I wound five or six turns of masking tape around the knob first. To avoid taking the tape off when fitting the spacer, I positioned one side first and stretched it across the face as I pushed. When it’s flush with the knob’s outer face, it’s just clear of the focuser body and OTA. There might be enough room to stick some kind of friction surface around the outside to improve the grip, but I don’t think it’s going to be necessary. I decided to do only the one knob, so I now have a very Noddy “dual speed” affair. Because the clearances around the fitted spacer are quite tight, it’s worth checking the positioning of the spindle in the focuser body first – mine was fractionally off centre, so there was more room one side than the other (assuming you have no preference).
  6. Originally brought for my C11 HD Edge, But when used with filter wheel, OAG, and 0.7 focal reducer the spacing is to far out, hence the reluctant sale of this A+ Condition, unused (other than to see if it worked), focuser. Asking price is £240 which includes special delivery. Bank transfer, paypal or cash/collect ect...... https://www.365astronomy.com/moonlite-cs-model-dual-speed-crayford-focuser-for-3.3-sc-with-0.95-travel-focal-reducer-drawtube-and-brass-compression-ring-gold-orange-colour.html
  7. I have a Skywatcher 200p Dobsonian and wanted to use my 600D to get some better shots of the moon and planets than I can with my long lens. I have bought the T and SLR Ring which I have then plugged straight into the 1.25inch in place of the eyepiece. However, I can't focus on any objects in the sky, Jupiter and Saturn just looked like fuzzy doughnuts last night. Perfectly circular which is a start but still completely out of focus. This afternoon I thought I'd have another go in daylight and pointed at some trees approx 100-120ft away and the leaves were in focus with the focusser wound all the way in. With it all the way out I could focus on leaves on a shrub about 60ft away. I assume therefore that I need to get the camera closer to the tube but how? And how much? The tube that is screwed into the part that fits into the 2inch eyepiece holder is about 1.25 inches long but can I replace this? Does anyone have any ideas please? I can focus using normal eyepieces so don't want to resort to moving primary mirrors which was mentioned in another thread. As this is primarily being used for viewing not photography. Thanks very much for your help in this matter. Steve
  8. Hi all. I've been pondering over the idea of upgrading the standard focuser on my 200p to a dual speed one. This one: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-focusers/dual-speed-crayford-1252-inch-focuser-for-skywatcher-explorer.html This is primarily due to my frustration when observing the planets, especially when the seeing isn't great. I really need that extra tiny bit of precise focus, and the focuser I currently have just moves that notch too much when I try and fine tune. Do you guys think it's worth going for one of these? Also how easy is it to attach a new focuser? I don't want to go recking my scope by dropping screws onto the mirror Many thanks, Thomas
  9. Hi, I recently made a video of how to mount a Sesto Senso focus motor to a Starlight feather touch focuser. I have now also made a video of how to calibrate it and also how to measure the backlash of the rack and pinion gear of the focuser. This method is not limited to a starlight feather touch focuser but could be performed on all kinds of focuser. I hope this video makes it easier for anyone out there having problems with backlash. You can also check out my other videos of the focuser / focus motor here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCm50WzpT1YKCwghW13b6k-g?view_as=subscriber
  10. Hello, I recently purchased a sky-watcher focuser for my Celestron C8 (1997) sct together with a focal reducer. The focuser threads on the sct and so does the focal reducer. But how do I use both of them together. What I've found so far is, that one must first attach the focuser to the OTA and then the focal reducer to the focuser . But I can't see how I can attach the focal reducer to the focuser. What kind of adapter would I need? Thanks, AstroRookie
  11. Hi guys, I have made a video of how to mount a Primalucelab Sesto Senso focus motor on a true 3" Feather Touch 3215 focuser. I thought some of you might wonder how to use the extra collar you need to mount the motor on to the bigger versions of the FT focusers, and also how to align the motor shaft. Enjoy
  12. Anybody used a Lacerta Dual Speed 1:10 Microfocus Upgrade Kit for Skywatcher Crayford Focuser? Are they any good? easy to fit? or should I just spend the extra to get a full dual speed focuser? cheers for your thoughts
  13. Hello all! I want to upgrade the focuser on my Skywatcher 8" truss dobsonian. I want a dual focuser that's a direct fit to my Skywatcher. Any suggstions ?
  14. I've been struggling to find an answer to whether a 2.5" focuser is likely to cause vignetting on a full-frame (36x24mm) camera sensor. This would be for an f/7 130mm scope, probably used in conjunction with a 3" 0.79x focal reducer (stated to have an illuminated image circle of 45mm). Whilst the focal reducer should fully illuminate the sensor (having an M68 connector on the scope side and M48 on the camera side), it is not clear whether any "mechanical" vignetting might occur with a 2.5" focuser drawtube. I imagine this would depend on the backfocus of the scope - i.e. how far the focal plane is behind the end of the focuser. If it's a long way back, I can visualize the light cone potentially being restricted when it enters the drawtube inside the OTA. Hopefully, the scope isn't designed this way, but it's hard to tell. If there is no mechanical vignetting, it does raise the question of what the benefits of larger focusers are. Greater load capacity certainly; improved stability? maybe. But does it actually give a wider unvignetted image circle? I'd like to apply some science to this question, rather than buying a bigger focuser "just in case"! Thanks for any answers! John.
  15. Second sunny day in a row so another chance to play with my new Lunt 50 Ha scope. I had read Gary’s post so I knew there was plenty of limb activity on show. The large prom at the 2 o’clock position was fairly easy to spot but I struggled to find the others . I could see there was something there further down the limb but it was very indistinct. I played around with the pressure tuner but to no avail. It then occurred to me it was probably a focussing issue. I replaced the supplied focuser with a Feather Touch focuser. What a difference. Easily spotted the other proms and could make out a fair bit of detail. Although this is only a single action focuser it is very smooth to use and fine focus adjust is easy. Now after a warming coffee I will get back out and try to sketch the proms. Not that I am much good at sketching, but it is fun to try.
  16. Hi again, another newbie question. I bought a used Skywatcher Quattro 10" CF ota. In the future I intend on some astrophotography but currently i'm interested in visual. Regarding the focuser, it did not come with any accessories, only the 2" focuser itself...and all of my EPs are 1 1/4". I bought a 2" to 1 1/4" twistlock adaptor and tried a meade 32mm plossl. I seemingly could not get close to focus. This did not really suprise me as the scope is primarily intended for imaging. Is it correct for me to assume that I require a 55mm extension tube/spacer to be able to reach focus on the eyepiece? If so, would a 50mm spacer maybe work? Many Thanks for any info.
  17. I've mostly finished the bulk of my scope's parts design but I'm stuck on the focuser now; specifically on where it should be along the optical axis and how much travel to allow for. My main concern is, when the focuser is fully racked in, how far outside of the focuser tube should the primary focal point be, and how far inside should it be when fully racked out? Some info that might be useful: I'll be using it for astro observing, no imaging or terrestrial viewing. It's a 150mm f/5 scope and I'll use a range of EPs and Barlow with it. Do you have any guidelines for me on this topic? Some further reading references to theory and literature will also be helpful.
  18. Hi, I have a 3" focuser on my APO 5" telescope. High quality and works very fine, except it could slip sometimes in the friction coupling. Even if I set the force higher with the adjust screw it slip sometimes. When the telescope get wet from moisture the water act as an oilfilm and lubricate the axis and steel plate friction surfaces. Now I must do something about this problem, took the focuser apart yesterday and looked after what was wrong with it. I have as usual documented what I do, for myselfe and all other that maybe have the same problem: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-focus-friction/project-focus-friction.html I will update the page when I have done the first test after my fix. Any smart ideas how to increase the friction? /Lars
  19. Hi folks, I wonder if I may ask advice for what software to use for observatory automation and imaging. I am currently working on a little newt for astrophotography. I've come to the point of making the focuser. Now I was just going to make a simple manual focuser because it will just be one camera mounted there all the time. In an ideal world I would just set the focus and forget it, now I'm getting the feeling I may have to adjust it more often then I anticipate. Being a remote observatory, I thought it might be silly to have to run out to do it manually. So this leaves me with an electric focuser. I spent some time last night looking into a few options, I am going to go the DIY route. I guess the crux of my question is do I go down the ASCOM path or the INDI path? This should really be a question I decide on my own, but I'm not prepared at this point and want to continue with designing the focuser project. Essentially I want to run a small observatory from inside. Open the obsy shutter, slave the observatory to the mount, get weather, maybe a skycam, goto, tracking and Stelarium. I'm a little overwhelmed, I guess I need to decide the "main" software before building the little accessory computers? SGP sounds interesting, then again so does EKOS... Should I go ahead with the "ASCOM myfocuser" type build?. I'm not even sure how the camera interfaces with everything, ie: does it communicate with the focuser for auto focus, or is it all controlled by the main piece of software? Actually I'm unsure if I can even do this with a Sony camera, perhaps I need a Canon, I know they are a little friendlier when it comes to using extra software. Any info and experiences would be appreciated.
  20. I just bought an Istar 150mm F12 lens and cell and will be building the telescope to hold it. The guy I bought it from has generously given me some excellent advice, so I know where I will get the aluminium tube and how I will cut it, how I will plan the light path and baffles, and how I will flock it internally. He also suggested a couple of focusers that he has used and likes. I think I will probably go for a Moonlite focuser as I have one on a newtonian and I really like the smoothness and precision of it, but I am also considering a couple of others. Do any of you have either the TS Monorail or the Baader Steeltrack? What do you like and dislike about them? I will be using the scope for visual observing only and the heaviest eyepiece I will use on it will be my Explore Scientific 30mm 82° at 1.4kg. Thanks.
  21. Is it possible to fit a dual-speed focuser from a Sky-Watcher Equinox Pro 80 (following on from an upgrade) to the Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED that came with a single speed focuser? Is there an adapter that can be sought for it?
  22. Hi all gazers, i am having second thoughts about getting a crayford for my C9.25 (non HD) and that is because of the 0.63 Reducer / Flattener that i am imaging with. As camera i use the Nikon D7100. According to my calculations, and what i have read on internet, the optimal distance between the reducer and the chip is 105mm, the only focuser that allows for this distance (107-ish mm) is the feathertouch with the "shorty" sct-adapter witch is 56mm, my nikon T2-flange to the chip is 50mm. The Steeltrack and moonlite is far to long (93 and 91mm) But, according to some people, i can put my FR after the focuser with good performance, but how would that effect the reducing, and flattening? are there any out there who use crayfords and reducers on their SCT's with DSLR's? If nothing seems to work, i am getting the feathertouch microtouch replacement for the stock SCT-focuser. // Daniel
  23. A couple of months back I began contemplating a new focuser for my LS60. Original post In the end I decided to go for a Moonlite (from FLO) and it arrived yesterday . I'm very happy with it! I'd identified a few possible options: Baader Steeltrack (~£210 delivered from TS) JMI Event Horizon (RVO said they could supply but did not respond with a price ) Feathertouch (I contacted Widescreen - where I bought my LS60 - but they did not respond with a price ) Moonlite (£330 delivered from FLO) In the end I went with the Moonlite because I have a Moonlite on my Dob and it's lovely (and because it looks cool in orange!) Andrew
  24. Hi All I am starting this as a baseline to find out Cons and Pros for the difference, between standard focuser and all the way to the electronic top? up to max £3k. I mean : practical : i would like not to worry about rotating and focusing at all., so paying big bucks will give me this reassurance? - i guess? yes? - one focuser for all!!!! I have a short list for all: refractor /reflectors,/newtons Moonlight FT, ASA AAf3", RotoFoc 3, Nitecrawler 3, Optec TFT-53, Integra 85, Finger Lakes Atlas (FLI).. . Esatto (expensive - but complains) i am sure there is more good stuff out there... I am using moonlight 2" on my small triplet and FT 2" on the 2nd one. I was thinking to upgrade and open up to 3" electronic- Integra 85, or - just find out that ASA is still making their AAf3 My tele will be fast APO 100mm and on coming 10-14" barrel... i guess RASA doesn't need one? Please all experience welcome. Kindest Regards Greg
  25. From the album: Meade 5000 APO 80mm focuser

    Brass wire for tensioning
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